T2K-CAR

[85lebaront2]

Nice job!

Very interesting.

Thanks!

 

[85lebaront2]

Thanks!

I set the crank at TDC 1-4 and then with the crank gear lined up with the crank key I used the arrow that the 2.4L has in line with one of the ribs on the gear to create a reference notch on the front cover. When the gear modifications are finished I will add a notch to the spacer behind the gear so it will be easy to line up.

[Gary Lewis]

I set the crank at TDC 1-4 and then with the crank gear lined up with the crank key I used the arrow that the 2.4L has in line with one of the ribs on the gear to create a reference notch on the front cover. When the gear modifications are finished I will add a notch to the spacer behind the gear so it will be easy to line up.

That looks like you will be able to set it up perfectly, Bill.

[85lebaront2]

That looks like you will be able to set it up perfectly, Bill.

I scored something on eBay recently. I had one of these on T2K-CAR MK I, but in the nearly 14 years since it was totaled some things (remotes) vanished. The company who made these (DesignTech) was located in Springfield VA, but like many good reasonably priced items, were purchased by another similar company (Directed Electronics), who made lesser quality but higher priced systems.

It came as no real surprise that they first raised prices, then stopped manufacturing the DesignTech items so replacement remotes are NLA. I went on eBay searching for remotes, but found a complete kit still in it's original package (date says copyright 2004) and immediately bought it.

[grumpin]

I scored something on eBay recently. I had one of these on T2K-CAR MK I, but in the nearly 14 years since it was totaled some things (remotes) vanished. The company who made these (DesignTech) was located in Springfield VA, but like many good reasonably priced items, were purchased by another similar company (Directed Electronics), who made lesser quality but higher priced systems.

It came as no real surprise that they first raised prices, then stopped manufacturing the DesignTech items so replacement remotes are NLA. I went on eBay searching for remotes, but found a complete kit still in it's original package (date says copyright 2004) and immediately bought it.

That’s a score! Interesting device.

[Gary Lewis]

That’s a score! Interesting device.

Nice! Good find, Bill!

[85lebaront2]

Nice! Good find, Bill!

Yes it is, I had one on the original and on one of our minivans.

Finally had some halfway decent weather today and was able to do some work on the 2.5L hybrid head. I started with the hole for the oil feed from the left rear head bolt to the #6 intake cam bearing cap transfer slot. I had previously drilled the passage through to the left front head bolt hole so it could be fed from the 2.5L oil passage. I drilled it out so I could get a 1/8 NPT tap into the passage in order to plug it and prevent oil from pressurizing the area the 2.4L feed is in. I tapped the cross passage for 1/8 NPT and installed a hex socket plug. I then enlarged the outside hole to 3/8 NPT and tapped it so the area will be closed off.

Next I made a template for the Tempo water pump and Chrysler 2.5L water entrance hole and drew up the layout on a piece of 1/2" 6061 aluminum. Plan is to use the 3 M8 X 1.25 block holes and one of the M10 X 1.5 holes for the Alternator/AC compressor mount to attach a plate to the block, then use the 3 M8 X 1.25 fasteners the Tempo water pump has to mount it to the plate. Based on the measurements I made today, it looks like if I use either reduced head size or socket head M8 X 1.25 screws into the 2.5L block they will not interfere with the Tempo water pump flange and 3rd bolt.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Yes it is, I had one on the original and on one of our minivans.

Finally had some halfway decent weather today and was able to do some work on the 2.5L hybrid head. I started with the hole for the oil feed from the left rear head bolt to the #6 intake cam bearing cap transfer slot. I had previously drilled the passage through to the left front head bolt hole so it could be fed from the 2.5L oil passage. I drilled it out so I could get a 1/8 NPT tap into the passage in order to plug it and prevent oil from pressurizing the area the 2.4L feed is in. I tapped the cross passage for 1/8 NPT and installed a hex socket plug. I then enlarged the outside hole to 3/8 NPT and tapped it so the area will be closed off.

Next I made a template for the Tempo water pump and Chrysler 2.5L water entrance hole and drew up the layout on a piece of 1/2" 6061 aluminum. Plan is to use the 3 M8 X 1.25 block holes and one of the M10 X 1.5 holes for the Alternator/AC compressor mount to attach a plate to the block, then use the 3 M8 X 1.25 fasteners the Tempo water pump has to mount it to the plate. Based on the measurements I made today, it looks like if I use either reduced head size or socket head M8 X 1.25 screws into the 2.5L block they will not interfere with the Tempo water pump flange and 3rd bolt.

That's looking good, Bill. 1/2" provides plenty of meat.

And the oil passages should work out nicely. But what will you use to seal the threads? Is that a steel fitting in an aluminum head?

[85lebaront2]

That's looking good, Bill. 1/2" provides plenty of meat.

And the oil passages should work out nicely. But what will you use to seal the threads? Is that a steel fitting in an aluminum head?

Yes it is, and is what Chrysler used. I have some nice hydraulic sealer that I bought when working on Mary's Cousin's G30 van.

[Gary Lewis]

Yes it is, and is what Chrysler used. I have some nice hydraulic sealer that I bought when working on Mary's Cousin's G30 van.

Should work. I like Loctite 56747 PST High Temperature Thread Sealant for Stainless Steel Fittings. Jim put me onto that and I use it on lots and lots of things. Seals nicely on hydraulic fittings, sets up enough to prevent bolts from backing out, and prevents galling. But, it is pricey.