New engine - but is it getting fuel?

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks again, Gary! Let us hope this is the last issue with the electrical components.

I ordered several fusible links, of different gauge as specified in the EVTM, enough to cover the wires going to the solenoid. Might as well replace them all while I'm at it!

Steve

Cool! How 'bout taking pics while doing it?

[sgauvry]

Cool! How 'bout taking pics while doing it?

I can manage that!

[NotEnoughTrucks]

Hey gents -

Few things to update -

Found what I think is the tank selector switch. Here are some pics:

There are only 5 poles to connect to inside the switch, but there are 7 wires coming to the back of the switch. 2 jumpers, possibly?

Here's the bad news: The ignition switch that is bolted to the steering column totally came apart. However, prior to doing so, I had a tremendous billow of smoke coming from the starter solenoid and voltage regulator area of the truck. Since the ignition switch started to come apart as I turned the ignition key to off, it would not stop the process of cooking components. Had to run over and disconnect the battery. The cooking of components meant that, even with the ignition switch replaced with a new one, I now have NO power coming to the dash cluster. That means no gauges, no wipers, no turn signals/flashers, no heater, no cranking, NADA! I do have headlamps and dome light. The engine will crank when jumping the solenoid.

All fuses are good. Is there a hidden fuse box I do not know about? Possible bad voltage regulator? Shot inertia switch? Ideas?

Thanks, gents! Can't move forward to this gets figured out.

Yes, that is the tank selector switch and it sure is interesting in that you have the 5 pin version.

I did make that promised trip to my old cab last weekend. Still grumbling about the weather. trudging through 1/4 mile of snow when we are supposed to be up to our knees in mud and spring runoff!

Anyways, my truck has the 6 pin wiring.

Views of each side and the face.

The harness runs into the wire bundle on the right side of the truck. You can also see the inertia switch in this picture.

Now, it's my understanding that the 6 pin switch is used with the in tank pumps and EFI while the 5 pin switch is used with the motorized tank switching valve. Is it possible that your truck was previously converted to EFI? Sure would make sense of some of the issues you have found.

[85lebaront2]

Yes, that is the tank selector switch and it sure is interesting in that you have the 5 pin version.

I did make that promised trip to my old cab last weekend. Still grumbling about the weather. trudging through 1/4 mile of snow when we are supposed to be up to our knees in mud and spring runoff!

Anyways, my truck has the 6 pin wiring.

Views of each side and the face.

The harness runs into the wire bundle on the right side of the truck. You can also see the inertia switch in this picture.

Now, it's my understanding that the 6 pin switch is used with the in tank pumps and EFI while the 5 pin switch is used with the motorized tank switching valve. Is it possible that your truck was previously converted to EFI? Sure would make sense of some of the issues you have found.

Remember his truck is a 1985.5 and was a factory change in mid year to EFI and everything about those seems to be unique to that model.

[NotEnoughTrucks]

Remember his truck is a 1985.5 and was a factory change in mid year to EFI and everything about those seems to be unique to that model.

Hmmm.

Steve, you mentioned your wiring more closely resembles the 7.5l wiring on p102 of the EVTM. I'll presume you also do not have the dual tank switch in the heater control, but you were able to locate the plug, which is wired for 5 pins.

So, I'll presume your truck was a factory single tank truck and being one of those 85.5 unicorns, Ford may have simply used a cab harness from a non EFI truck? That 5 pin switch does a polarity reversal trick for the fuel selector valve instead of the more conventional DPDT arrangement of the 6 position switch found in a dual tank EFI truck.

At any rate, I have not personally seen a single tank EFI bullnose truck. I have seen a few bricknose with single tank and they always had the wiring for dual tank, with a plug in jumper in place of the tank switch, permanently configuring the wiring for the front tank. One application I saw was an F350 cab and chassis, the other an F150 single tank pickup.

Another one of life's mysteries!

 

[sgauvry]

Hmmm.

Steve, you mentioned your wiring more closely resembles the 7.5l wiring on p102 of the EVTM. I'll presume you also do not have the dual tank switch in the heater control, but you were able to locate the plug, which is wired for 5 pins.

So, I'll presume your truck was a factory single tank truck and being one of those 85.5 unicorns, Ford may have simply used a cab harness from a non EFI truck? That 5 pin switch does a polarity reversal trick for the fuel selector valve instead of the more conventional DPDT arrangement of the 6 position switch found in a dual tank EFI truck.

At any rate, I have not personally seen a single tank EFI bullnose truck. I have seen a few bricknose with single tank and they always had the wiring for dual tank, with a plug in jumper in place of the tank switch, permanently configuring the wiring for the front tank. One application I saw was an F350 cab and chassis, the other an F150 single tank pickup.

Another one of life's mysteries!

Wow! This gets more interesting with each post!!

Hard to say what this truck was at the beginning. The wiring may be a original, or not. Hard to say.

However, I can say she cranks and she's getting plenty of fuel. Had three wires that were not connecting correctly. Resolved that and both fuel pumps are working as they should.

Now, it's a starting problem. Will be doing diagnostics on the coil checking primary and secondary resistance, spark, and so forth. Hope to get that done today.

[Gary Lewis]

Wow! This gets more interesting with each post!!

Hard to say what this truck was at the beginning. The wiring may be a original, or not. Hard to say.

However, I can say she cranks and she's getting plenty of fuel. Had three wires that were not connecting correctly. Resolved that and both fuel pumps are working as they should.

Now, it's a starting problem. Will be doing diagnostics on the coil checking primary and secondary resistance, spark, and so forth. Hope to get that done today.

As Jim says, progress is good! You are nigh unto having it running again.

[sgauvry]

As Jim says, progress is good! You are nigh unto having it running again.

We will see, but I think you are right!

Coil has 12.4 volts going to it. That is good.

Primary Resistance on coil is only .2. Not good.

Secondary resistance on coil is 7.8. That is good.

Will do a switching signal test when I am able, as well as the other coil tests, and check the PIP.

Something's not right somewhere, just have to track it down.

 

[85lebaront2]

We will see, but I think you are right!

Coil has 12.4 volts going to it. That is good.

Primary Resistance on coil is only .2. Not good.

Secondary resistance on coil is 7.8. That is good.

Will do a switching signal test when I am able, as well as the other coil tests, and check the PIP.

Something's not right somewhere, just have to track it down.

Steve according to my AllData, Primary windings 0.3-1.0 ohms, Secondary windings 8000-11,500 ohms.

If you want, I have an extra here I can measure for you.

[sgauvry]

Steve according to my AllData, Primary windings 0.3-1.0 ohms, Secondary windings 8000-11,500 ohms.

If you want, I have an extra here I can measure for you.

Thanks, Bill! Coil is likely bad, so I ordered a new one. However, there are other coil related tests I want to do as well as a TFI module and PIP test. Want to make sure all is working as it should.