85lebaront2 Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 Gents - Found one wiring problem so far. Connector 127, located on the drivers side near the firewall, illustrated on page 97, Figure 1, is faulty. The y/w wire had come completely disconnected from the connecter and the black ground wire nearly disconnected. The y/w wire runs to the fuel gauge and tank sending unit, as does the black wire, explaining why my fuel gauge would not give me a reading any longer. I disconnected the battery, exposed a little wire and shoved it into the connector, reconnected the battery and it did in fact give me a fuel level report. I'll be resoldering wires to the connector once I purchase a new soldering iron. Mine has gone bad on me for some reason, after only using it a few times. Cheapo Chinese crapola! At worse, I'll bypass the connector and join the wires together because there's incredibly little wire and space to work with, so it won't be that easily accomplished. I can only hope the wire fix for the fuel sending unit is that simple to repair. Steve Steve, that would also explain no in-tank pump, the black wire is the ground for both sender and pump. How is the PK/BK H one? That is the in-tank pump power. Sounds like you are closing in on it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgauvry Posted March 25, 2018 Author Share Posted March 25, 2018 Steve, that would also explain no in-tank pump, the black wire is the ground for both sender and pump. How is the PK/BK H one? That is the in-tank pump power. Sounds like you are closing in on it! Thanks! Presently, I'm going to fix Connector 127. Believe it or not, I was able to find a new one at advance auto and it comes with wires attached. It will actually be easier for me to solder the wires of a new connector to the existing black and yellow/w wire rather than try to solder the yellow and black wires into the old connector due to limited wire and difficult to work in space. The new connector should be here in a few days. Regarding the pink/bk H wire, Connector 121 is adjacent to Connector 127. I have concerns about disconnecting the connectors there, but will do so as gingerly as I can. That connection leads down to the external HP pump, and then runs to the tank. About 1/4 of the way, there is a branch-off close to another connector that runs to the tranny safety switch. From Connector 121 all the way to that safety switch connector and beyond, the wires are heavily wrapped in tape, and that tranny safety switch connector is wrapped to the fuel pump wires. I need to strip the tape away from the whole thing to see what I'm dealing with. Can't do it today - my body won't work well today and it's only 32 outside. Thanks for getting back to me! Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 Thanks! Presently, I'm going to fix Connector 127. Believe it or not, I was able to find a new one at advance auto and it comes with wires attached. It will actually be easier for me to solder the wires of a new connector to the existing black and yellow/w wire rather than try to solder the yellow and black wires into the old connector due to limited wire and difficult to work in space. The new connector should be here in a few days. Regarding the pink/bk H wire, Connector 121 is adjacent to Connector 127. I have concerns about disconnecting the connectors there, but will do so as gingerly as I can. That connection leads down to the external HP pump, and then runs to the tank. About 1/4 of the way, there is a branch-off close to another connector that runs to the tranny safety switch. From Connector 121 all the way to that safety switch connector and beyond, the wires are heavily wrapped in tape, and that tranny safety switch connector is wrapped to the fuel pump wires. I need to strip the tape away from the whole thing to see what I'm dealing with. Can't do it today - my body won't work well today and it's only 32 outside. Thanks for getting back to me! Steve Sounds good sir! You are dealing with 33 year old wiring, same thing I am running into on my Chrysler convertible (it's actually 32 years old). I am finding splices that are corroded, tape that has petrified etc. This is all compounded by Chryslers totally illogical wire color and circuit numbering system. I will be going through a diagram and see a color with* next to it, means "may not be this color", they also love to go into a bunch splice one color and come out with two or three different ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 Thanks! Presently, I'm going to fix Connector 127. Believe it or not, I was able to find a new one at advance auto and it comes with wires attached. It will actually be easier for me to solder the wires of a new connector to the existing black and yellow/w wire rather than try to solder the yellow and black wires into the old connector due to limited wire and difficult to work in space. The new connector should be here in a few days. Regarding the pink/bk H wire, Connector 121 is adjacent to Connector 127. I have concerns about disconnecting the connectors there, but will do so as gingerly as I can. That connection leads down to the external HP pump, and then runs to the tank. About 1/4 of the way, there is a branch-off close to another connector that runs to the tranny safety switch. From Connector 121 all the way to that safety switch connector and beyond, the wires are heavily wrapped in tape, and that tranny safety switch connector is wrapped to the fuel pump wires. I need to strip the tape away from the whole thing to see what I'm dealing with. Can't do it today - my body won't work well today and it's only 32 outside. Thanks for getting back to me! Steve That's progress, and as Jim says, progress is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgauvry Posted March 25, 2018 Author Share Posted March 25, 2018 Sounds good sir! You are dealing with 33 year old wiring, same thing I am running into on my Chrysler convertible (it's actually 32 years old). I am finding splices that are corroded, tape that has petrified etc. This is all compounded by Chryslers totally illogical wire color and circuit numbering system. I will be going through a diagram and see a color with* next to it, means "may not be this color", they also love to go into a bunch splice one color and come out with two or three different ones. Have to say that Ford consistency in color coding, connector numbers, etc. is very helpful. Good luck with your project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 Have to say that Ford consistency in color coding, connector numbers, etc. is very helpful. Good luck with your project. I would post pictures, but the owner might get upset since this is a Ford Bullnose site. The gentleman I was doing his late father's Chevstang for has pretty well finished up the floors. I am waiting for him to mail the one good, one soso door check so I can take the three I salvaged from the 1988 Reliant donor vehicle and have four good ones. Then I will take the front fenders over with the door checks as they are a royal PITA to do with the fenders on and we will attach them and he will straighten the fenders where something hit the right one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 I would post pictures, but the owner might get upset since this is a Ford Bullnose site. The gentleman I was doing his late father's Chevstang for has pretty well finished up the floors. I am waiting for him to mail the one good, one soso door check so I can take the three I salvaged from the 1988 Reliant donor vehicle and have four good ones. Then I will take the front fenders over with the door checks as they are a royal PITA to do with the fenders on and we will attach them and he will straighten the fenders where something hit the right one. I know "the owner" and he's a laid-back kind of guy. Go for it. But, maybe not in Steve's thread in case he doesn't want them in here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgauvry Posted March 25, 2018 Author Share Posted March 25, 2018 I know "the owner" and he's a laid-back kind of guy. Go for it. But, maybe not in Steve's thread in case he doesn't want them in here? No skin off my back. Post those pics! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 No skin off my back. Post those pics! I'll put them in projects as that's what it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgauvry Posted March 26, 2018 Author Share Posted March 26, 2018 Try as I might, I could not find an accurate reference to the connector for the tank switch, but it exists in all trucks. On the dual tank trucks, there is a switch in with the heater controls, on single tank trucks, the switch is omitted, but the connector still exists near the heater control. There is a description of the 6 pin plug in the top corner of p.104 in the EVTM, but no references to connector number. The plug that replaces the switch has two jumpers on it. There are two rows of 3 pins. The middle position will be jumpered to either the front or rear tank wiring. If the plug is missing, your in tank pump will not run and the fuel gauge will read empty. This is also a handy place to check for voltage to your in tank pump although it would not rule out a problem between the plug and the tank itself. I also have had trouble with the fuel tank connectors. The connector body locking ears typically break off, resulting in an intermittent connection to the in tank pump and gauge sender. I sourced a replacement from Napa, but they are getting a little harder to find these days. Ray - I would like to revisit this post of yours. On the dual tank trucks, there is a switch in with the heater controls, on single tank trucks, the switch is omitted, but the connector still exists near the heater control. There is a description of the 6 pin plug in the top corner of p.104 in the EVTM, but no references to connector number. The plug that replaces the switch has two jumpers on it. There are two rows of 3 pins. The middle position will be jumpered to either the front or rear tank wiring. If the plug is missing, your in tank pump will not run and the fuel gauge will read empty. This is also a handy place to check for voltage to your in tank pump although it would not rule out a problem between the plug and the tank itself. To begin - I am not certain if this truck started out as a single tank truck or dual. Close to the in-tank fuel pump connector is another connected set of wires (All taped up - possibly spliced) that run to the back of the truck. It runs to my tail lights/back up light. This is somewhat consistent with other wiring that is taped to the fuel pump wiring and runs to the tranny safety switch. Second - The connector to the fuel pump has 4 wires: orange, pink/bk H, yellow/white stripe, and black (really faded) or brown. What is odd is that the connector wire colors exactly match the 7.5 single tank configuration as seen on page 102 of the EVTM. Not sure if this is significant but wanted to mention it. Third - I also looked for the 6 pin plug you referenced. I found the plug mounted near the bottom of the right side of the heater controls. It is a grey plug with six terminals, but there are no jumpers on those terminals. Am I to do something with this plug, or just leave it alone? Fourth - You mentioned that plug is a "handy place to check for voltage to your in tank pump". How would I do that? Lastly - How could I bypass the pink/bl H wire temporarily to test if the the pump will work, and get some fuel in the line? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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