New engine - but is it getting fuel?

[sgauvry]

Yes, if you have voltage downstream then it must be good. But remember to fix whatever shorted before you replace the fuse link. You can buy fuse wire at many parts stores.

I checked all of the fuse links after things got toasted. All are showing 12.4 volts downstream of the fuse links.

I have since replaced the cause of the barbecue (the ignition switch).

Since all fuse links are good (I will double check but I did check them all before) what is the next step?

 

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, if you have voltage downstream then it must be good. But remember to fix whatever shorted before you replace the fuse link. You can buy fuse wire at many parts stores.

I checked all of the fuse links after things got toasted. All are showing 12.4 volts downstream of the fuse links.

I have since replaced the cause of the barbecue (the ignition switch).

Since all fuse links are good (I will double check but I did check them all before) what is the next step?

I'm confused - even fuse link I is good? If they are all good and you've replaced the culprit then proceed on with trying to start it?

[sgauvry]

I'm confused - even fuse link I is good? If they are all good and you've replaced the culprit then proceed on with trying to start it?

Yes. All fuse links are good (read 12.4v downstream of the fuse link) and when the key is turned to the on position, there is no power same as if the key is in the lock position. No gauges, no turn signals/flashers, no wipers, no heater, etc. Just headlamps and a dome light.

I'll re-check and get back to you. I'm interested in the fuse link wire that runs to the fuse box as well, Fuse Link E.

Will try to do it today and let you know.

Thanks, Gary.

[sgauvry]

I'm confused - even fuse link I is good? If they are all good and you've replaced the culprit then proceed on with trying to start it?

Tested again - Fuse links that were tested are fuse links to the starter solenoid. All tested at 12.4v. As I said before, with key turned to the on position, there's no power to gauges, turn signals/flashers, heater blower, and when turned to start position, no cranking. I do have headlamps and the dome light.

Fuses are all good. Since it'll crank with the starter solenoid jumped, the solenoid must be good. The voltage regulator was likely fried, but that wouldn't cause the no-power issue I'm having. Right?

What else is there to check? Shot fuse box? Shot safety switch?

 

[Gary Lewis]

Tested again - Fuse links that were tested are fuse links to the starter solenoid. All tested at 12.4v. As I said before, with key turned to the on position, there's no power to gauges, turn signals/flashers, heater blower, and when turned to start position, no cranking. I do have headlamps and the dome light.

Fuses are all good. Since it'll crank with the starter solenoid jumped, the solenoid must be good. The voltage regulator was likely fried, but that wouldn't cause the no-power issue I'm having. Right?

What else is there to check? Shot fuse box? Shot safety switch?

Circuit 37, as shown on the previous link, feeds the two parts of the ignition switch shown on Page 16. So, if the fuse link is bad then none of those things would work.

But, it is possible for the fuse link to be bad but still show 12v if you don't have anything turned on. It could have a really poor connection internally such that it won't run anything but still give a decent reading when the ignition switch is off.

So put your volt meter on and then turn the key on and see if anything like the heater works and what the voltage does.

[sgauvry]

So put your volt meter on and then turn the key on and see if anything like the heater works and what the voltage does.

The problem is that there's no power to anything except the headlamps and dome light. The heater blower has no power. So the test won't work. Other ideas, possibly?

 

[Gary Lewis]

So put your volt meter on and then turn the key on and see if anything like the heater works and what the voltage does.

The problem is that there's no power to anything except the headlamps and dome light. The heater blower has no power. So the test won't work. Other ideas, possibly?

I understand that nothing runs. But, if there is 12.4v at the tail end, meaning closest to the cab, of Fuse Link I then we have to figure out what is going on.

One possibility is that you get 12.4v on your meter when everything is turned off. But, if you try to power something then that voltage goes away. So, have you tried to test the voltage while the key is on and the blower is turned on? If not, please try.

If you have, then you need to check the yellow wire going into the ignition switch. See if it has the 12.4v - both with the switch off and with it on.

[sgauvry]

I understand that nothing runs. But, if there is 12.4v at the tail end, meaning closest to the cab, of Fuse Link I then we have to figure out what is going on.

One possibility is that you get 12.4v on your meter when everything is turned off. But, if you try to power something then that voltage goes away. So, have you tried to test the voltage while the key is on and the blower is turned on? If not, please try.

If you have, then you need to check the yellow wire going into the ignition switch. See if it has the 12.4v - both with the switch off and with it on.

Ok! That worked!!

There's a single wire coming off the solenoid that has two fuse links spliced to it. The wires on both fuse links appear to be orange and black. One of those runs to the main light switch and one runs to the fuse panel. My guess it is the one running to the fuse panel.

So, is this a matter where I replace the entire wire, or just locate a bad section of wire?

Thanks, Gary! You're on it, again!!!

[Gary Lewis]

Ok! That worked!!

There's a single wire coming off the solenoid that has two fuse links spliced to it. The wires on both fuse links appear to be orange and black. One of those runs to the main light switch and one runs to the fuse panel. My guess it is the one running to the fuse panel.

So, is this a matter where I replace the entire wire, or just locate a bad section of wire?

Thanks, Gary! You're on it, again!!!

Yes a 16 gauge fusible link. That should be what is bad as it is at least one if not two sizes smaller than the rest of the wiring harness and is designed to fail there. But, it isn't just smaller wire. It has a flame-proof insulation that won't melt off when it gets really hot.

So go find some 16 ga fuse link and replace the one that is burned.

[sgauvry]

Yes a 16 gauge fusible link. That should be what is bad as it is at least one if not two sizes smaller than the rest of the wiring harness and is designed to fail there. But, it isn't just smaller wire. It has a flame-proof insulation that won't melt off when it gets really hot.

So go find some 16 ga fuse link and replace the one that is burned.

Thanks again, Gary! Let us hope this is the last issue with the electrical components.

I ordered several fusible links, of different gauge as specified in the EVTM, enough to cover the wires going to the solenoid. Might as well replace them all while I'm at it!

Steve