kramttocs Posted October 1, 2020 Share Posted October 1, 2020 Looking great! Are you using Cura? The granularity it has is impressive - infill, line count/thickness, first layer settings, etc I haven't tried any other slicers. Do you have the magnetic or glass bed? Haven't kept up with the various v2 changes but my Ender 3 Pro came with a magnetic and the glass bed was hands down the best upgrade. Used to have lifting issues every now and then with the magnetic bed but I've gone through 3 rolls of PLA in the past 2 weeks on glass and no adhesion issues at all. Still trying to get the hang of ABS... I've found that using a tap works really well. I didn't have much luck with printing the threads and those weren't even as small as you were doing. Coincidentally, I upgraded to Cura this morning. I had been using the Creality Slicer that came with the printer, but that's just a reskin of an older version of Cura. Straight Cura seems to expose a lot more options, so I'll be sticking with that going forward. As for the bed, I'm not entirely clear on what I have - it's the default bed that comes with the printer. You can see a good view of it at the top of this thread, it's black, slightly rough, and everything REALLY sticks to it. My biggest issue is getting things off of it without damaging the item or the bed. Three rolls seems like a lot of material, at least to me as a newbie. What do you do with your printer that you go through so much? If it has a texture, it sounds like the one mine came with. I actually used it for quite awhile and had mixed results on flat pieces but if you are having good luck with it, I'd stick with it. It seems like each machine, even the same model, behave differently in some aspects. Environmental factors like humidity and ambient temp may play into it a lot. Overnight my magnetic bed just wouldn't get good adhesion. Since the 'kit' came with the glass bed I installed it rather than troubleshooting/cleaning and so far so good. It looks like you already have the good tubing and feeder. I don't know how much others normally use either but this usage is definitely abnormal for me. I just happened to stumble across a design on thingiverse at the same time I was cleaning out our wellhouse and it snowballed from there. Been printing out these chainable aerosol can hooks nonstop Really looking forward to what you guys make with yours. I was thinking on your case - would panel mount connectors (like molex) work for the wiring penetrations? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dorsai Posted October 1, 2020 Author Share Posted October 1, 2020 If it has a texture, it sounds like the one mine came with. I actually used it for quite awhile and had mixed results on flat pieces but if you are having good luck with it, I'd stick with it. It seems like each machine, even the same model, behave differently in some aspects. Environmental factors like humidity and ambient temp may play into it a lot. Overnight my magnetic bed just wouldn't get good adhesion. Since the 'kit' came with the glass bed I installed it rather than troubleshooting/cleaning and so far so good. It looks like you already have the good tubing and feeder. It probably is the same - it looks like what I see online with many of the Ender series printers, but I'm not familiar with the term 'magnetic' for it. But I can see where the name comes from, everything REALLY sticks to mine. That's great for tall narrow items, but for things with a large base (like this box), it's a pain. One of our robotics kids who's into 3D printing (he has five Enders of one flavor or another) prints parts for the team, and I've been impressed with how neatly they come out - partly attributable to the glass bed. I may look into getting one once I'm back working. Really looking forward to what you guys make with yours. I was thinking on your case - would panel mount connectors (like molex) work for the wiring penetrations? Quite possibly. Honestly, we haven't gotten that far along yet...and since this is my brother's truck, I'm going to let him make the call on connectors. I'll definitely suggest them to him, I just looked at a couple and I'm sure they'd do the trick. P.S. Those can holders are pretty cool! I have a cabinet here in the basement that all my cans are in, but once my stock outgrows it I may look into those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dorsai Posted October 3, 2020 Author Share Posted October 3, 2020 If it has a texture, it sounds like the one mine came with. I actually used it for quite awhile and had mixed results on flat pieces but if you are having good luck with it, I'd stick with it. It seems like each machine, even the same model, behave differently in some aspects. Environmental factors like humidity and ambient temp may play into it a lot. Overnight my magnetic bed just wouldn't get good adhesion. Since the 'kit' came with the glass bed I installed it rather than troubleshooting/cleaning and so far so good.It looks like you already have the good tubing and feeder. It probably is the same - it looks like what I see online with many of the Ender series printers, but I'm not familiar with the term 'magnetic' for it. But I can see where the name comes from, everything REALLY sticks to mine. That's great for tall narrow items, but for things with a large base (like this box), it's a pain.One of our robotics kids who's into 3D printing (he has five Enders of one flavor or another) prints parts for the team, and I've been impressed with how neatly they come out - partly attributable to the glass bed. I may look into getting one once I'm back working.Really looking forward to what you guys make with yours.I was thinking on your case - would panel mount connectors (like molex) work for the wiring penetrations?Quite possibly. Honestly, we haven't gotten that far along yet...and since this is my brother's truck, I'm going to let him make the call on connectors. I'll definitely suggest them to him, I just looked at a couple and I'm sure they'd do the trick.P.S. Those can holders are pretty cool! I have a cabinet here in the basement that all my cans are in, but once my stock outgrows it I may look into those.So update time on the transmission controller case project...Here's the second evolution of the test case (containing just the relay board, the real thing will have an Arduino as well):Changes from previous:The standoffs have been reduced from 1/2" to 1/4" diameter, still with a 3/32" unthreaded hole, and have been reduced to 3/8" tall from 1/2". I'm using #4x3/8" sheet metal screws to mount the board and there's no sign of splitting or cracking. The bottom half of the of the case is now shorter. Since the USB port on the Arduino will be exposed to allow for testing and tuning, it makes sense to have the lower edge of the port (which protrudes over the edge of the board) resting on the top edge of the lower case, and then have the upper case come down over it. Easier to print, and easier to assemble. There's now a lip on the bottom case, over which a corresponding lip on the upper case (seen to the upper right) fits to ensure alignment. The idea works, although I didn't build in any clearance between the lips to allow for easy fitting - they'll go together as they are now, but only if forced. Easy fix.Unfortunately, warping is becoming a problem. I took no precautions when I printed the new lower half the first time, and it's visibly bowed. For the re-print I was more careful about how I removed it from the bed, then put weights in the case while the bed was still heated, then let the bed cool. It's still slightly warped, but probably usable. The top half is also warped...so, I'm going to be reducing the fill percentage from 50% to 20% for the top (which supposedly helps), and I went ahead and ordered a glass bed. Between the two I should be able to get less warping, low enough that screwing the top to the bottom will pull everything into alignment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted October 3, 2020 Share Posted October 3, 2020 So update time on the transmission controller case project...Here's the second evolution of the test case (containing just the relay board, the real thing will have an Arduino as well):Changes from previous:The standoffs have been reduced from 1/2" to 1/4" diameter, still with a 3/32" unthreaded hole, and have been reduced to 3/8" tall from 1/2". I'm using #4x3/8" sheet metal screws to mount the board and there's no sign of splitting or cracking.The bottom half of the of the case is now shorter. Since the USB port on the Arduino will be exposed to allow for testing and tuning, it makes sense to have the lower edge of the port (which protrudes over the edge of the board) resting on the top edge of the lower case, and then have the upper case come down over it. Easier to print, and easier to assemble.There's now a lip on the bottom case, over which a corresponding lip on the upper case (seen to the upper right) fits to ensure alignment. The idea works, although I didn't build in any clearance between the lips to allow for easy fitting - they'll go together as they are now, but only if forced. Easy fix.Unfortunately, warping is becoming a problem. I took no precautions when I printed the new lower half the first time, and it's visibly bowed. For the re-print I was more careful about how I removed it from the bed, then put weights in the case while the bed was still heated, then let the bed cool. It's still slightly warped, but probably usable. The top half is also warped...so, I'm going to be reducing the fill percentage from 50% to 20% for the top (which supposedly helps), and I went ahead and ordered a glass bed. Between the two I should be able to get less warping, low enough that screwing the top to the bottom will pull everything into alignment.Very nice Matthew! Updates look great.I know some people recommended enclosures to help with consistent temps. I didn't buy or make one but I did put mine inside an armoire/entertainment center. Can't really say it made a difference printing but you can feel the heat when opening the door. YMMV but I've had good luck with the 8mm brim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dorsai Posted October 4, 2020 Author Share Posted October 4, 2020 Very nice Matthew! Updates look great. I know some people recommended enclosures to help with consistent temps. I didn't buy or make one but I did put mine inside an armoire/entertainment center. Can't really say it made a difference printing but you can feel the heat when opening the door. YMMV but I've had good luck with the 8mm brim. Everywhere I go I keep hearing about enclosures, so I am going to make one for myself...I just picked up some foil-backed foam board from Lowe's, and I'm going to tape it into shape. I even have a piece of Lexan for a window. It'll look totally ghetto, but it should do the trick. In other news, my CAD skills seem to be improving - I decided to step up to the full-size case for this last iteration, and I got all the standoffs in the correct place the first time as well as the hole to expose the USB port. All that's left is to design some standoffs into the case halves to allow them to be screwed together, and decide on what connector to use. Oh, and add some tabs to allow mounting the case to the firewall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts