sgauvry Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 Gents - Having a problem with my 1985.5 F150 5.0 EFI. I am unable to crank the engine. Battery presently has about a 13.7 amps. Possibly, more amps are required to crank the engine? There's a new starter solenoid, and connections are correct (positive battery cable and 4 wires to the "M" stud, starter wire to the "B" stud, red wire to the "S" stud). I can hear the high pressure fuel pump briefly engage as I turn the key. Relay switches worked fine with the old engine and harness. I know that doesn't necessarily indicate they are working correctly, but I am assuming they are. Fuel gauge, emissions light, and battery charge light work. The wire harness is good and I have it connected correctly. The only exceptions I can think of may be the alternator connections (will double check those to ensure they are correct) and the pigtail terminal from the battery that connects to a connector that runs to the EEC and grounds the entire system. I have some work to do on that to make it a great ground. I'm not wanting to actually start the engine at this point. Although it's been primed with oil using a dummy distributor rod, but I want to crank it a bit to make sure oil is circulated very well and that any trapped air can escape. Can't get it to crank. I know I'll have to do some diagnostics, but not sure where to begin. As always, I appreciate the sound advice I get here! Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 You should be able to force it to crank by connecting a small jumper from the hot terminal on the starter solenoid/relay to the small terminal that should have a red/light blue wire on it. Remove the r/lb wire and jumper to that terminal and the engine should crank - but don't be standing in front of the truck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgauvry Posted March 20, 2018 Author Share Posted March 20, 2018 You should be able to force it to crank by connecting a small jumper from the hot terminal on the starter solenoid/relay to the small terminal that should have a red/light blue wire on it. Remove the r/lb wire and jumper to that terminal and the engine should crank - but don't be standing in front of the truck! Yes! Following your suggestion, it cranked. What next? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 Yes! Following your suggestion, it cranked. What next? Good! But, are you asking me what the next problem will be? Or, how to troubleshoot the problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgauvry Posted March 20, 2018 Author Share Posted March 20, 2018 Good! But, are you asking me what the next problem will be? Or, how to troubleshoot the problem? How to troubleshoot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 Steve, I seem to recall that is an AOD, is the back up lamp/neutral safety wiring plugged in, it may have two connections, one on the transmission and one possibly near the transmission crossmember to frame bolts on the driver's side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgauvry Posted March 20, 2018 Author Share Posted March 20, 2018 Steve, I seem to recall that is an AOD, is the back up lamp/neutral safety wiring plugged in, it may have two connections, one on the transmission and one possibly near the transmission crossmember to frame bolts on the driver's side. Everything is connected. Doesn't AOD refer to the tranny? In that case mines a C6. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgauvry Posted March 20, 2018 Author Share Posted March 20, 2018 How to troubleshoot. I suppose it's time to do a voltage drop test. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 Everything is connected. Doesn't AOD refer to the tranny? In that case mines a C6. Yes, AOD is the tranny. But C6 will have the same connections. You need to use pages 29 and 30 here (1986 EVTM/Start) and use your volt meter to find the problem. The R/LB wire comes from the ignition switch on Page 29 and goes to Page 30 via the blue M triangle. Then it goes through the neutral safety switch and back to Page 29 via M. However, if you don't have the truck in neutral or Park it won't crank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 I suppose it's time to do a voltage drop test. No, not yet. That's to find bad connections. You probably have a disconnection or maybe you don't the tranny truly in Park or Neutral. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts