kramttocs Posted August 7, 2020 Share Posted August 7, 2020 When adding new circuits to my truck that rely on some factory function (like hot in run), it's always nice to find a clean way to do it that looks factory. These locations may be unused in your truck and if so, might provide an easy way to add a circuit or trigger a relay. Some truck configurations will be using some or all of these. Please visit the EVTM or ask a question on the forum if you are unsure. NOTE: Remember to ensure you aren't overloading the wires. Use relays and fuses when appropriate. These first two take wedgelock terminals and the connectors are used in various other locations in the truck so finding a mate for these on a parts/jy truck isn't hard. 1. Digital Clock connector C125 Location: behind instrument panel, near radio This provides you with: BR: 12v when lights are on LG/Y: hot at all times W/P: hot in accy or run BK: ground Examples: The BR is a good relay trigger for aux lights like fog lights I am using the W/P wire for my GVOD controller. A few accessories don't want power in crank so this is a good circuit for that. 2. Throttle Kicker connector C327 Location: behind lower left hand side of instrument panel This provides you with: R/LG: hot in start or run but not a full 12v in run R/Y: hot in start or run BK: ground 3. Aux Fuel Tank Selector Switch. Fuse Panel 15. This one is nice because it's located in the fuse panel and you can't get much more of a factory look than that. This should be available for any single tank truck or a 460 w/ electric pumps. You can pull the Red wire from a truck that does have it or make your own (*terminal part number needed*). This provides you with: R (or custom): Hot in Start or Run It is the 10A fuse in this photo Press up on the tab holding in the bottom terminal and pull the wire from behind 4. Fuse Panel 7 Hot at ALL times but only if there is a fuse/circuit breaker in position 12. Because this gets power through position 12, load will be added to that fuse as well 5. Fuse Panel 10 This does not contain a terminal in either slot i.e never hot without custom wiring 6. Fuse Panel 13 This does not contain a terminal in either slot i.e never hot without custom wiring 7. Body Marker Lamps C915 Location: below junction block (beside brake booster) in engine bay This is present and unused if you have the Trailer package but no side marker lamps (ie not a dually pickup) This provides you with: W/R: 12v when lights are on (relay based) BK and White: ground Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 7, 2020 Share Posted August 7, 2020 That's very helpful, Scott. Well done! We need to figure out where to put this kind of info so people don't have to use the search functions. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted August 7, 2020 Author Share Posted August 7, 2020 That's very helpful, Scott. Well done! We need to figure out where to put this kind of info so people don't have to use the search functions. Any ideas? Hey Gary, I am not really sure there is a better place for stuff like this. It's the kind of thing that people likely won't be on the lookout for so as long as a few people know about it then whenever someone, for example, posts about needing to add a new 'hot in run' add on circuit, maybe it will be remembered and can be provided as an option. Just my thoughts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 7, 2020 Share Posted August 7, 2020 Hey Gary, I am not really sure there is a better place for stuff like this. It's the kind of thing that people likely won't be on the lookout for so as long as a few people know about it then whenever someone, for example, posts about needing to add a new 'hot in run' add on circuit, maybe it will be remembered and can be provided as an option. Just my thoughts. You can remember where it is, I'll remember we have it and know how to look for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted August 7, 2020 Author Share Posted August 7, 2020 You can remember where it is, I'll remember we have it and know how to look for it. Works for me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted August 12, 2020 Author Share Posted August 12, 2020 Works for me! Added some fuse panel options Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted September 9, 2020 Author Share Posted September 9, 2020 Added some fuse panel options To elaborate on the option about using an open fuse slot... As I mentioned in #1, I was using that for my GVOD. Worked fine but I didn't like 1) having it on in ACC and 2) I don't like having fuses hidden away if I can help it (this was the main reason). I decided that I wanted the fuse for the overdrive in the fuse block. I ordered some fuse block connectors but they turned out to be too small so am still unsure of where to obtain new ones. Ended up pulling two wires/terminals from my spare harness. I pulled the Y/LB for the horn/cigar as it was a larger one and then the one for the Fuel Tank Selector At the top of the fuseblock is a GY/Y wire that is Hot in Run. It feeds fuses 5 and 9 therefore it's a double terminal strip. Since the GY/Y wire only takes up one, you are left with an extra input on the backside The wire crimp section was tight enough I couldn't spread it open but the strain relief part can be used. I soldered on the end of the short, larger Y/LB wire I pulled from the spare fuse block and then inserted the terminal into one leg of fuse slot 13 I then inserted the R wire I pulled into the other leg and ran it to my GVOD controller You can see the two wires at the bottom with the Y/LB running to the top and the Red running 'out' [you can also see the Hazard flasher adapter that really helps with the taller LED flasher] Now the 3 amp GVOD fuse is located at the bottom of the block beneath the power lock cb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 9, 2020 Share Posted September 9, 2020 To elaborate on the option about using an open fuse slot... As I mentioned in #1, I was using that for my GVOD. Worked fine but I didn't like 1) having it on in ACC and 2) I don't like having fuses hidden away if I can help it (this was the main reason). I decided that I wanted the fuse for the overdrive in the fuse block. I ordered some fuse block connectors but they turned out to be too small so am still unsure of where to obtain new ones. Ended up pulling two wires/terminals from my spare harness. I pulled the Y/LB for the horn/cigar as it was a larger one and then the one for the Fuel Tank Selector At the top of the fuseblock is a GY/Y wire that is Hot in Run. It feeds fuses 5 and 9 therefore it's a double terminal strip. Since the GY/Y wire only takes up one, you are left with an extra input on the backside The wire crimp section was tight enough I couldn't spread it open but the strain relief part can be used. I soldered on the end of the short, larger Y/LB wire I pulled from the spare fuse block and then inserted the terminal into one leg of fuse slot 13 I then inserted the R wire I pulled into the other leg and ran it to my GVOD controller You can see the two wires at the bottom with the Y/LB running to the top and the Red running 'out' [you can also see the Hazard flasher adapter that really helps with the taller LED flasher] Now the 3 amp GVOD fuse is located at the bottom of the block beneath the power lock cb. Well done, Scott!! I, too, don't like having fuses hidden away. Who is going to know where to find them when problems occur? So I applaud taking the time to put the fuse in the fuse box. As for soldering to the terminals, that's exactly how I do it as I've also found that these terminals are crimped so tightly that you'll destroy them is you try to get them open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted September 9, 2020 Author Share Posted September 9, 2020 Well done, Scott!! I, too, don't like having fuses hidden away. Who is going to know where to find them when problems occur? So I applaud taking the time to put the fuse in the fuse box. As for soldering to the terminals, that's exactly how I do it as I've also found that these terminals are crimped so tightly that you'll destroy them is you try to get them open. You're exactly right about tearing them up I experimented first on one I pulled out of the spare and it wasn't happening. I am still looking for replacement terminals for anyone else that might feel like doing this but doesn't have a spare block. BX2091C does not work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swampedout Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 You're exactly right about tearing them up I experimented first on one I pulled out of the spare and it wasn't happening. I am still looking for replacement terminals for anyone else that might feel like doing this but doesn't have a spare block. BX2091C does not work. Thanks for putting this together! This is exactly what I need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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