Gary Lewis Posted July 22, 2020 Share Posted July 22, 2020 Today I made a tool to bleed brake systems that use the later master cylinders with screw-on lids, like the one I put on Big Blue. I started with this low-pressure regulator and gauge that I had been using for powder coating. I removed it from the fixed position in the air line on the wall and put a female quick disconnect fitting in its place and added a male fitting to this setup. That way I can plug it into the air hose at the truck. Then I moved on to the lid. The pic below shows the parts, including a 1/8" pipe to 1/8" hose barb and a 1/8" pipe fitting. But note that red line on the fitting - I cut the fitting there and used the hex-shaped part as a nut to secure the barb. I drilled and tapped the lid for 1/8" pipe to take the barb. Then I cut the rubber gasket to just pass over the threaded side of the barb and secured the barb with the "nut". And here's what the thing looks like: So, does it work? Yes! It works well. I put about 4 psi on the master cylinder and started bleeding the brakes from the farthest away to the closest. The system was essentially dry so it took quite a while and I made three rounds to get all of the air out. But the brake pedal is very firm. However, I did learn something in that process that I want to pass on. You need to have clear tubing at the bleeder valve so you can tell if there's any air coming out. And, that tubing needs to fit the valve tightly. The hose I have fits the front valves very well, but not the back ones as they are smaller. So it looks as if there may be air getting sucked in at that joint and causing bubbles. Tomorrow I'll get an assortment of clear tubing and see if that fixes it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted July 22, 2020 Share Posted July 22, 2020 Cool stuff Gary. I like it. I have a homemade tool myself, but it's a constant hands free vacuum kit hooked up to a pickle jar...lol. I usually just put the tubing over the ends of the bleeder screws and then fill the system that way. Been having really good luck with it up until last weekend when I installed two new calipers on the old RV. My tubing was too small to fit over the ends of the bleeder screws on those big two piston calipers. Had to get a friend to help pump the pedal the old fashioned way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 23, 2020 Author Share Posted July 23, 2020 Cool stuff Gary. I like it. I have a homemade tool myself, but it's a constant hands free vacuum kit hooked up to a pickle jar...lol. I usually just put the tubing over the ends of the bleeder screws and then fill the system that way. Been having really good luck with it up until last weekend when I installed two new calipers on the old RV. My tubing was too small to fit over the ends of the bleeder screws on those big two piston calipers. Had to get a friend to help pump the pedal the old fashioned way. Cory - My Mityvac was supposed to be the cat's meow on bleeding, and it worked the same way as yours. But unless you pull the bleeder screws and coat the threads with some kind of sealant the vacuum pulls air around the threads when you crack open the bleeders. So you don't know if you've gotten all the air out 'cause you are always seeing bubbles. This way the fluid is being pushed by air and, assuming you have a good connection to the bleeder screw, if you have air bubbles you need to bleed some more. And, it is so easy to use. It is still sitting on the master cylinder as I type with 4 psi. Won't hurt anything. So when I get the new brake fluid and smaller hose I'll just crack a bleeder and make sure there's no air in the system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 23, 2020 Author Share Posted July 23, 2020 Cory - My Mityvac was supposed to be the cat's meow on bleeding, and it worked the same way as yours. But unless you pull the bleeder screws and coat the threads with some kind of sealant the vacuum pulls air around the threads when you crack open the bleeders. So you don't know if you've gotten all the air out 'cause you are always seeing bubbles. This way the fluid is being pushed by air and, assuming you have a good connection to the bleeder screw, if you have air bubbles you need to bleed some more. And, it is so easy to use. It is still sitting on the master cylinder as I type with 4 psi. Won't hurt anything. So when I get the new brake fluid and smaller hose I'll just crack a bleeder and make sure there's no air in the system. Ok, 'tis done. The kit, as shown below, works well. The clear hose on the left is 3/16" ID and fits the smaller bleeder screws that are on the back of Big Blue. The piece of clear hose that's on the orange hose on the right is 1/4" ID and fits the larger bleeders on the '95 calipers on the front of Big Blue. And the hose in the middle snaps into the regulator, shown, and screws onto the master cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted July 23, 2020 Share Posted July 23, 2020 Ok, 'tis done. The kit, as shown below, works well. The clear hose on the left is 3/16" ID and fits the smaller bleeder screws that are on the back of Big Blue. The piece of clear hose that's on the orange hose on the right is 1/4" ID and fits the larger bleeders on the '95 calipers on the front of Big Blue. And the hose in the middle snaps into the regulator, shown, and screws onto the master cylinder. Very nice prototype, Gary! Perhaps someone [reamer?] will consider producing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 23, 2020 Author Share Posted July 23, 2020 Very nice prototype, Gary! Perhaps someone [reamer?] will consider producing? Janey thinks I need to sell it to someone. I tried to 'splain that others have done this, although typically w/a hand pump sprayer. The advantage of mine is that it stays pressurized for a long, long time so you don't have to worry about pumping it up. Yes, if Ron wanted to make them, go for it. Now, if I just had a good lid for the clutch master. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted July 23, 2020 Share Posted July 23, 2020 Now, if I just had a good lid for the clutch master. Aren't you thankful you are not using this clutch M/C! https://www.ebay.com/itm/Clutch-Master-Cylinder-LuK-LMC370-fits-00-11-Ford-Focus/124270144096?epid=74943877&hash=item1cef13ea60:g:fu0AAOSw6WJeQo9v Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 23, 2020 Author Share Posted July 23, 2020 Now, if I just had a good lid for the clutch master. Aren't you thankful you are not using this clutch M/C! https://www.ebay.com/itm/Clutch-Master-Cylinder-LuK-LMC370-fits-00-11-Ford-Focus/124270144096?epid=74943877&hash=item1cef13ea60:g:fu0AAOSw6WJeQo9v WOW! But, the shipping is free. So, the clutch master cylinder is worth more than the car? Surely you can't tell me there's an 00-11 Ford Focus worth that much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted July 23, 2020 Share Posted July 23, 2020 WOW! But, the shipping is free. So, the clutch master cylinder is worth more than the car? Surely you can't tell me there's an 00-11 Ford Focus worth that much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swampedout Posted July 24, 2020 Share Posted July 24, 2020 Mityvac makes an assortment of adaptable lids that use chains to tighten around generic MCs. Im not a huge fan of their method but you can get a purty good seal with one if you fool with the chain length long enough. Maybe its a design you could improve on. I like your tool a lot. Also I dont understand why front and rear bleed valves are different sizes but Im no engineer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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