Timing Cover Gasket Replacement

[Machspeed]

Hey friends, waiting on some bolts for the water pump and timing cover before assembly. In the meantime, I ordered a Fel Pro timing cover gasket set (TCS45450). I’ve mocked up the fitment and can see that this may be one of those ordeals that prompt the release of many colorful metaphors, if you know what I mean. The kit comes with the two front cork gaskets for the oil pan that need to be trimmed. On those gaskets is a tab that fits in the recess of the front oil pan seal. With that, I’m thinking I need to put all this together on the timing cover and somehow put the timing cover on while negotiating the crank seal, hoping that the oil pan does not push the cork gaskets off in the assembly. This could be a whole lot easier if the pan were off but I’m not really into pulling that pan. Would appreciate your thoughts and comments on this procedure? Thanks!!!

 

[Gary Lewis]

I'm not 100% sure that I understand what you said, but I have done this a few times and it works. It is scary to cut your pan gasket, but you have to if you aren't removing the pan.

Can't remember if there's a bolt hole through the pieces to stabilize them, but in any even RTV is super slick when not set up, so I like to put things in place and snug them up by hand, but not torque them until the next day.

Does that help?

[Machspeed]

I'm not 100% sure that I understand what you said, but I have done this a few times and it works. It is scary to cut your pan gasket, but you have to if you aren't removing the pan.

Can't remember if there's a bolt hole through the pieces to stabilize them, but in any even RTV is super slick when not set up, so I like to put things in place and snug them up by hand, but not torque them until the next day.

Does that help?

Thanks Gary, but to be clear I've added a picture of my gasket set. I have cut my oil pan gasket that was on the engine to accommodate the two cork gaskets that came with the kit. You can see the two cork gaskets that go between the pan and the timing cover in the kit picture. You can also see the tabs on those gaskets that go in on both sides of the front oil pan seal. So basically what I'm thinking is that you attach the oil pan seal to the timing chain cover and then adhere the two cork gaskets to that cover and put the whole assembly on the engine. However, with the oil pan attached and the protruding crank shaft that has to go through crank seal in the timing chain cover, it makes for a very difficult fit up.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks Gary, but to be clear I've added a picture of my gasket set. I have cut my oil pan gasket that was on the engine to accommodate the two cork gaskets that came with the kit. You can see the two cork gaskets that go between the pan and the timing cover in the kit picture. You can also see the tabs on those gaskets that go in on both sides of the front oil pan seal. So basically what I'm thinking is that you attach the oil pan seal to the timing chain cover and then adhere the two cork gaskets to that cover and put the whole assembly on the engine. However, with the oil pan attached and the protruding crank shaft that has to go through crank seal in the timing chain cover, it makes for a very difficult fit up.

Isn't the front pan seal split so that the point on the cork pieces goes into the split? That's the way I remember it, but it may not be correct.

I think I put the cork pieces on the pan, using plenty of RTV, and then put the pan seal on, lining up the tips. But I don't think I used RTV on the pan seal as I was afraid it would squirt out with the pressure. Instead I believe I used something tacky, like Indian Head. Then I put the timing cover on.

 

[Machspeed]

Isn't the front pan seal split so that the point on the cork pieces goes into the split? That's the way I remember it, but it may not be correct.

Yep, but you can only insert the cork tab into the pan seal from the side. In other words, it's not opened up on top so if you put the cork on the pan that cork tab will not go into the pan seal. Logic, from my perspective dictates that they have to go on the chain cover. Can't believe there are no instructions with this kit.....arghhh!

[Gary Lewis]

Isn't the front pan seal split so that the point on the cork pieces goes into the split? That's the way I remember it, but it may not be correct.

Yep, but you can only insert the cork tab into the pan seal from the side. In other words, it's not opened up on top so if you put the cork on the pan that cork tab will not go into the pan seal. Logic, from my perspective dictates that they have to go on the chain cover. Can't believe there are no instructions with this kit.....arghhh!

Bummer! But I see what you are saying. Is there any way to put the cork gaskets in place on the pan and then raise them up enough to get the tips into the front seal?

[Machspeed]

Bummer! But I see what you are saying. Is there any way to put the cork gaskets in place on the pan and then raise them up enough to get the tips into the front seal?

I just found the following, as I was thinking about doing away with the cork gaskets and using "The Right Stuff", same stuff I used on the china walls of my intake installation. Anyway, the post was very enlightening and it confirmed the application of the cork gaskets onto the timing chain cover.

"You need to be very very careful when using rtv on very tight fitting machined surfaces, such as timing covers (for example). The squeeze-out does not have a robust attachment and can drop off, finding its way into the oil pan. A small glob of RTV can lock up an oil pump very quickly, and the oil drive will twist up like pretzal or rubber band airplane. I have seen it happen several times.

Using rtv on thicker gaps (like intake manifold ends, valve covers, etc) is fine because there is very little squeeze-out; you are simply compressing the bead of RTV (not squeezing the snot out of it between two machined surfaces).

I have never had any issues with the timing cover gaskets installed mostly dry, just make sure to to give yourself a ring of sealent around the two water ports (I always use P-tex #2), and to prepare the oil pan ends (bond them to the timing cover and- and let them fully cure) and make sure the rubber seal is properly seated. Then when installing, use a small bead of RTV at the (block/oil pan/timing cover) joint and you should have a long lasting troublefree installation."

 

[Gary Lewis]

I just found the following, as I was thinking about doing away with the cork gaskets and using "The Right Stuff", same stuff I used on the china walls of my intake installation. Anyway, the post was very enlightening and it confirmed the application of the cork gaskets onto the timing chain cover.

"You need to be very very careful when using rtv on very tight fitting machined surfaces, such as timing covers (for example). The squeeze-out does not have a robust attachment and can drop off, finding its way into the oil pan. A small glob of RTV can lock up an oil pump very quickly, and the oil drive will twist up like pretzal or rubber band airplane. I have seen it happen several times.

Using rtv on thicker gaps (like intake manifold ends, valve covers, etc) is fine because there is very little squeeze-out; you are simply compressing the bead of RTV (not squeezing the snot out of it between two machined surfaces).

I have never had any issues with the timing cover gaskets installed mostly dry, just make sure to to give yourself a ring of sealent around the two water ports (I always use P-tex #2), and to prepare the oil pan ends (bond them to the timing cover and- and let them fully cure) and make sure the rubber seal is properly seated. Then when installing, use a small bead of RTV at the (block/oil pan/timing cover) joint and you should have a long lasting troublefree installation."

 

That makes sense. Sounds like a plan, Stan.

[Machspeed]

That makes sense. Sounds like a plan, Stan.

So, between last night and the night before, I got the timing cover, harmonic balancer, and water pump on. When I disassembled everything, I bagged all bolts and labeled them. Apparently, I mislabeled the two upper bolts that go into the top of the timing cover. In the process, could not figure out why these two bolts, which I just knew came out of there, would not go back in. And, because you can't see directly in there, I wasted a lot of time trying to make them fit. Frustrated, I grabbed up a mirror and a light and quickly realized that the bolts were too big. Was not happy in regards to my stupidity. Aside from that, the cover went on well. Hopefull, it won't leak.

As I posted a query on this, I wanted to leave some brief details on installing the timing chain cover with the oil pan still on the engine. Basically, the cork gaskets and the front pan seal are installed on the cover. Front pan seal goes on cover first, then the cork gaskets go on with the cork tab inserted inside the recess of the pan seal. The cork gaskets need trimming both at the area of the tab and where it meets up at the back of the cover where it seals against the engine. I used some Edelbrock high tack cement to hold down the cork gaskets and of course RTV in the usual spots. See photos.

 

[Gary Lewis]

So, between last night and the night before, I got the timing cover, harmonic balancer, and water pump on. When I disassembled everything, I bagged all bolts and labeled them. Apparently, I mislabeled the two upper bolts that go into the top of the timing cover. In the process, could not figure out why these two bolts, which I just knew came out of there, would not go back in. And, because you can't see directly in there, I wasted a lot of time trying to make them fit. Frustrated, I grabbed up a mirror and a light and quickly realized that the bolts were too big. Was not happy in regards to my stupidity. Aside from that, the cover went on well. Hopefull, it won't leak.

As I posted a query on this, I wanted to leave some brief details on installing the timing chain cover with the oil pan still on the engine. Basically, the cork gaskets and the front pan seal are installed on the cover. Front pan seal goes on cover first, then the cork gaskets go on with the cork tab inserted inside the recess of the pan seal. The cork gaskets need trimming both at the area of the tab and where it meets up at the back of the cover where it seals against the engine. I used some Edelbrock high tack cement to hold down the cork gaskets and of course RTV in the usual spots. See photos.

 

Good followup. Thanks. And, glad you got it together.