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Throttle Cable swap


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You've just proven the point. The cross-reference I have digitized doesn't go back to E0, but it does have E2. And sure enough, part number E2TZ 9725-A has an ID # of E2TA 9726-CA. Any number on a part is not a part number. And while not all parts got an ID #, the vast majority did if you look closely enough.

What about F2?

That is the number that NumberDummy back in 2016 stated replaced the E0TZ and E7TZ was F2TZ-9725-D.

The number on the back of the pedal is F2TA-9726-DA. Based off how the E number is E2TA 9726-CA, I assume the pedal would have a number F2TA 9726-DA then just like whats on the pedal I found.

Guess I will go ahead and order it then. Wish I knew what exactly was the difference. I assume with this number replacing E0TZ and E7TZ that means it should be the same as E7TZ just updated on the E7TZ so if it has a longer arm to allow for more cable pull with less pedal travel then I feel the F2TZ should be the same way then. Guess I will just take a risk and buy it and then make a comparison to my stock one.

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What about F2?

That is the number that NumberDummy back in 2016 stated replaced the E0TZ and E7TZ was F2TZ-9725-D.

The number on the back of the pedal is F2TA-9726-DA. Based off how the E number is E2TA 9726-CA, I assume the pedal would have a number F2TA 9726-DA then just like whats on the pedal I found.

Guess I will go ahead and order it then. Wish I knew what exactly was the difference. I assume with this number replacing E0TZ and E7TZ that means it should be the same as E7TZ just updated on the E7TZ so if it has a longer arm to allow for more cable pull with less pedal travel then I feel the F2TZ should be the same way then. Guess I will just take a risk and buy it and then make a comparison to my stock one.

A part with ID # F2TA-9726-DA will have part number F2TZ 9725-?, and the ? may be a D. But I have no way of knowing.

I think the best thing we can do is to get our hands on all of the different variations and measure the distance from the pivot to where the cable attaches. And we need to make sure we agree on how to do that measurement. Then we can create a chart and know the answers to our many questions.

So, if you buy it then I'd suggest measuring from the center of the pivot to the bottom of the slot where the cable attaches. That won't be the center of the cable, but it will be much easier to measure. And, maybe we should measure from the top of the pivot and then include the diameter of the pivot so we can get an accurate measurement.

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A part with ID # F2TA-9726-DA will have part number F2TZ 9725-?, and the ? may be a D. But I have no way of knowing.

I think the best thing we can do is to get our hands on all of the different variations and measure the distance from the pivot to where the cable attaches. And we need to make sure we agree on how to do that measurement. Then we can create a chart and know the answers to our many questions.

So, if you buy it then I'd suggest measuring from the center of the pivot to the bottom of the slot where the cable attaches. That won't be the center of the cable, but it will be much easier to measure. And, maybe we should measure from the top of the pivot and then include the diameter of the pivot so we can get an accurate measurement.

I have it ordered. My goal is to measure from the pivot pin up to the absolute top of the lever on the cable end. Both of them are straight in this area and it would be a easy way to measure as the cable hole is the same distance regardless since it has the plastic snap sleeve to lock it to the pedal.

I should have it by Wed is what ebay is saying. Cost me $65 with tax but I dont mind cause this one has been restored is what the description said.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have it ordered. My goal is to measure from the pivot pin up to the absolute top of the lever on the cable end. Both of them are straight in this area and it would be a easy way to measure as the cable hole is the same distance regardless since it has the plastic snap sleeve to lock it to the pedal.

I should have it by Wed is what ebay is saying. Cost me $65 with tax but I dont mind cause this one has been restored is what the description said.

Well I just got the pedal I ordered off ebay in. Havent done measurements but will hopefully have measurements done by this weekend so I can make a comparison between my OE pedal in my '82 truck vs the newest replacement number for the pedal for our trucks. Honestly it looks like this pedal has a longer arm from the pivot point up and may actually have more pull.

This may be the ticket for my setup to get full throttle if the stock throttle cable will reach.

If so I will need to add this information to my EFI post and will also need to add it to my post on FTE for those that may do it for their trucks and want more of a bolt in thing.

Now I just need to hop on jegs and look and see if they make male AN hose ends. If they do then I will have to buy them if I decide to replace my stock 5/16" fuel line with a OE stainless steel 3/8" fuel line with -AN flared ends

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Well I just got the pedal I ordered off ebay in. Havent done measurements but will hopefully have measurements done by this weekend so I can make a comparison between my OE pedal in my '82 truck vs the newest replacement number for the pedal for our trucks. Honestly it looks like this pedal has a longer arm from the pivot point up and may actually have more pull.

This may be the ticket for my setup to get full throttle if the stock throttle cable will reach.

If so I will need to add this information to my EFI post and will also need to add it to my post on FTE for those that may do it for their trucks and want more of a bolt in thing.

Now I just need to hop on jegs and look and see if they make male AN hose ends. If they do then I will have to buy them if I decide to replace my stock 5/16" fuel line with a OE stainless steel 3/8" fuel line with -AN flared ends

I have a NOS pedal laying out to match measurements with you. :nabble_smiley_wink:

Just tell me how you've measured so I can do it the same.

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I have a NOS pedal laying out to match measurements with you. :nabble_smiley_wink:

Just tell me how you've measured so I can do it the same.

If you have a NOS one laying around I can get the measurement now. I just cant do measurements in comparison to my OE one on my truck. But with this used unit in the house I can measure it right now.

First way I measure is with a tape measure (digital calipers need batteries) hooked to the top of the pedal arm where the cable goes. Not in the hole but the absolute top. Measuring straight down in a straight line as the pedal is not straight on mine but curved with a straight edge across the center of the pivot pin it appears to be 7 1/16" length.

Second way I measured is with the tape hooked on the pivot pin itself and measured straight to the end of the pedal arm on the cable end. This is more of an angle but it provided me with a close measurement of just a hair under 7 5/16"

So the two measurements I have are as follows.

7 1/16"

7 5/16"

With these curves compared to the straight C channel of the OE one my truck has it makes me wonder cause it looks like this pedal when viewing from the side drawing a straight line from the arm below the pin through the pin to the cable end it looks like mine has a 2" offset away from the firewall. I cant remember on my truck if the C channel arm is straight or if it curves I want to say it is straight meaning it moves closer to the firewall. This one has a stop on the pedal mount to limit how far towards the firewall it can move.

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If you have a NOS one laying around I can get the measurement now. I just cant do measurements in comparison to my OE one on my truck. But with this used unit in the house I can measure it right now.

First way I measure is with a tape measure (digital calipers need batteries) hooked to the top of the pedal arm where the cable goes. Not in the hole but the absolute top. Measuring straight down in a straight line as the pedal is not straight on mine but curved with a straight edge across the center of the pivot pin it appears to be 7 1/16" length.

Second way I measured is with the tape hooked on the pivot pin itself and measured straight to the end of the pedal arm on the cable end. This is more of an angle but it provided me with a close measurement of just a hair under 7 5/16"

So the two measurements I have are as follows.

7 1/16"

7 5/16"

With these curves compared to the straight C channel of the OE one my truck has it makes me wonder cause it looks like this pedal when viewing from the side drawing a straight line from the arm below the pin through the pin to the cable end it looks like mine has a 2" offset away from the firewall. I cant remember on my truck if the C channel arm is straight or if it curves I want to say it is straight meaning it moves closer to the firewall. This one has a stop on the pedal mount to limit how far towards the firewall it can move.

I'll measure in the morning and post pics of how I measure awa the measurements themselves.

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If you have a NOS one laying around I can get the measurement now. I just cant do measurements in comparison to my OE one on my truck. But with this used unit in the house I can measure it right now.

First way I measure is with a tape measure (digital calipers need batteries) hooked to the top of the pedal arm where the cable goes. Not in the hole but the absolute top. Measuring straight down in a straight line as the pedal is not straight on mine but curved with a straight edge across the center of the pivot pin it appears to be 7 1/16" length.

Second way I measured is with the tape hooked on the pivot pin itself and measured straight to the end of the pedal arm on the cable end. This is more of an angle but it provided me with a close measurement of just a hair under 7 5/16"

So the two measurements I have are as follows.

7 1/16"

7 5/16"

With these curves compared to the straight C channel of the OE one my truck has it makes me wonder cause it looks like this pedal when viewing from the side drawing a straight line from the arm below the pin through the pin to the cable end it looks like mine has a 2" offset away from the firewall. I cant remember on my truck if the C channel arm is straight or if it curves I want to say it is straight meaning it moves closer to the firewall. This one has a stop on the pedal mount to limit how far towards the firewall it can move.

Let's see if this answers your question. The part I have is, as you'll see on the tag, an E6TZ 9725-A.

And the measurements are 7" and 7 1/8".

Method 1 wide:

Accel_Pedal_Measuring_Method_1_-_Wide.thumb.jpg.a22caceb09b3ef30e912e551822047b2.jpg

Method 1 close:

Accel_Pedal_Measuring_Method_1_-_Close.thumb.jpg.aaa385c195dd9c23d742c908c2eeb9de.jpg

Method 2 wide:

Accel_Pedal_Measuring_Method_2_-_Wide.thumb.jpg.a101fa31d6583a3adfb209e3dace575d.jpg

Method 2 close:

Accel_Pedal_Measuring_Method_2_-_Close.thumb.jpg.caf402349ba7971592519a5d3ef2f8e6.jpg

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Let's see if this answers your question. The part I have is, as you'll see on the tag, an E6TZ 9725-A.

And the measurements are 7" and 7 1/8".

Method 1 wide:

Method 1 close:

Method 2 wide:

Method 2 close:

Ill double check but it appears mine is pretty much the same length as yours the only difference is the one you have is like the E0TZ one with the straight arm where mine is the newer style that has a flat bar that is bent in all kinds of weird ways.

I know this style is quite easy to bend side to side so I will try both pedals and see which one I can make work.

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