Throttle Cable swap

[1986F150Six]

I believe you already have quite a lot on your plate!

But, with the retirement of Bill/Numberdummy from being our part # guru I'm doing the best I can. I can't replace him, but I can find a few things.

When did you last read, "another clueless eBay seller"?

 

[Rusty_S85]

Sorry, I got lost in some of that. But let me see if I can answer some of the questions.

First, it is highly unlikely Bill/Numberdummy is going to respond. He told me on the phone several months ago that he's done with forums.

As for the pedals, the 1980 - 84 trucks didn't come with the E6TZ 9725-A pedal assembly. 1985's might have since Ford did use some parts in the year prior to when they were supposedly "born". But there had to have been an E0TZ 9725-? assembly and the catalog, which is a 1994 version, had that number and any subsequent numbers up to the E6 # removed. But, all trucks of a given year got the same pedal. The one for the 300 six was to fix a problem and was installed only on trucks that came into the dealership with that problem.

On the cable length, while it doesn't change the amount of movement of the inner cable, it can cause problems with routing. Too long of a cable will cause routing problems. In the pic below you can see that the throttle cable is really slightly too long as it goes past the bracket and bends back. But that's the difference the length of cable makes.

And here's the bracket I made. If the Sniper allows you to go across the mounting bolts like the Edelbrock does, with a bit of cutout to clear, you could do the same.

And you want to get the linkage set up like this, meaning with the stud positioned at about the same height as the cable and with essentially no slack at idle. That way all of the movement of the pedal translates to movement of the throttle shaft. In other words, there is no slack.

See thats what I over looked. I thought I was overlooking something, the part number is a E0TZ-9725-A which would be what my truck should have as I never replaced it. But the F2TZ-9725-D is listed as replacing the E0TZ-9725-A and the E7TZ-9725-A.

My only problem is how do you tell them apart. I was looking at a 87 - 96 F-series truck and found many with the E7T number as well as F2 number but they werent exact. Not sure if they are right or not.

I have no problem buying the newer corrected gas pedal as its just 3 screws that hold it to the firewall. I just dont want to spend $60 and end up with you know the wrong one.

That is what I am worried about on the cable length, I dont know if the extra 2 3/4" length is after the mounting points for the sleeve or if its in the sleeve itself. If its outside of the sleeve and its the cable then that would help me reach the farther forward attachment point with the throttle extension but if its in the plastic bit it wont help me as the extra length is where I dont need it at between the firewall and the mount.

I cant mount anything off the back of the carb unless it only mounts on one ear cause mine is not the traditional sniper based off the edelbrock style mine is based off the holley 4150 where it has the simulated fuel bowl on front and rear. I went this route as it keeps the throttle lever more in line with the OE cable mount as well as it was the only one with the C6 kick down linkage and didnt require me to fab up a kick down cable. If the least of my problems is swapping a gas pedal to a newer variant and going with a slightly longer stock cable then I am fine with that as its just bolt in not custom fabricating. Even with the bead chain for the cruise control if that isnt long enough to provide the proper length I can always add to the bead chain or replace it with a longer one.

I saw NumberDummy online last night on the forums, I dont know if he replied I havent looked but I just posted a forum post so anyone can see it. I was going to send him a private message but couldnt find the send private message on his profile I figure he turned that off.

But yea, if I knew for sure if the gas pedals I found last night were it I found a bunch of used ones but not a single NOS one. and those pedals didnt come up from a part number search but by a application search.

Like for example I found one for a 92-96 F150/Bronco/F250 and 97 F350, it looks different than mine as mine is a folded c channel piece that is straight where this is a solid curved single piece that isnt straight. But the part number on the back of the mounting plate is F2TA-9726-DA. I dont know if that is the correct one that NumberDummy was talking about but the number he gave was F2TZ-9726-A. I can pick this one up but its $60 and I hate to spend $60 on this and its not what I need to make everything function properly.

I also found some E0TZ ones as well but those are what I currently have. I just dont know if F2TA-9726-DA is right. The pedal pad itself says F2TA-9A799-DA. Im not that good with part numbers to know exactly what this is intended for I just know this is from the correct time period as the replacement that NumberDummy provided few years back.

[Rusty_S85]

Going to hazard a guess that r/b might mean "replaced by"...

I hope to get some time to mock up my aftermarket cable to the ProFlo this weekend... Although probably not relevant to your situation.

Guess I was too tired last night when doing all this cause it didnt even click to mean replaced by. That makes sense.

Only problem is I cant find that part number anywhere online. Even looking up ford F150`s from 1987 and up and I dont see that part number. Even going as new as 1996 the closest I get to one of the numbers is the F2 number provided by NumberDummy to another poster like 7 years ago. But the number he provided was F2TZ-9725-D and the one I found on Ebay used which I found quite a few actually for 92 - 97 is a F2TZ-9725-DA. I dont know if that is it or not. I wish I knew cause if it is I would spend the $60 right now and order it and then hunt down the 4/B 351 cable and see which one will work best for my setup. I just have bought too many things for my truck already that I thought should work and find out it doesnt so I want to make 150% sure that that 92-97 pedal assembly is the one that NumberDummy talked about as F2TZ-9725-D that was a replacement for the E0TZ and E7TZ pedals.

[Rusty_S85]

I believe you already have quite a lot on your plate!

Thanks, David. It seems that I do. For sure.

But, with the retirement of Bill/Numberdummy from being our part # guru I'm doing the best I can. I can't replace him, but I can find a few things.

Same with me. I know a little about the part numbers but not enough to know the intended application. I found numerous pedals that are stated to be pulled from the truck but the part number on the pedal doesnt match what it should be so now I am wondering whats going on. The throttle cables are a dime a dozen I can find them easily. The pedal assembly is what is hard to find the latest pedal assembly that will bolt in on our trucks.

[85lebaront2]

Same with me. I know a little about the part numbers but not enough to know the intended application. I found numerous pedals that are stated to be pulled from the truck but the part number on the pedal doesnt match what it should be so now I am wondering whats going on. The throttle cables are a dime a dozen I can find them easily. The pedal assembly is what is hard to find the latest pedal assembly that will bolt in on our trucks.

F2TZ is the prefix for 1992 parts, if it was changed in 1992, I am not sure what the difference is. I am still using the original 1986 throttle pedal in Darth even with the 1996 EFI system. I did score a later throttle cable from Pick-n-Pull and have the V10 cable for the larger throttle body. I will try to get some pictures of the items I was talking about.

Item for you, first, make sure that with the cable end free the spring is pulling the inside portion all the way in, the upper portion of the pedal should be pulled all the way toward the firewall, if not with the strength of the return springs on the Sniper, you can probably use them and move the cable bracket as far back as possible. After first determining that, go under the dash and measure the "stroke" of the upper part of the throttle pedal arm from firewall or stop contact to the floorboard position, essentially start with it against what stops it at closed throttle inside the cab to where it is when the pedal arm is against the carpet.

This will be the maximum travel you can get without changes. I have found, that if you grab the pedal arm, not the plastic pedal it is possible to raise it off the carpet a bit to increase the travel at the cable end (old hot rodders trick).

The other item I already mentioned, plan on making or modifying a bracket, put your longer arm on the Sniper as close to vertical as possible, then stroke it to WOT and measure the absolute straight line distance it moves back, don't worry about the arc it travels in just the distance from closed to open. You may need to remove it and put it on something flat and use a square. This dimension is the distance the cable and throttle pedal arm need to move to get WOT. This should also make the initial opening easier.

[Rusty_S85]

F2TZ is the prefix for 1992 parts, if it was changed in 1992, I am not sure what the difference is. I am still using the original 1986 throttle pedal in Darth even with the 1996 EFI system. I did score a later throttle cable from Pick-n-Pull and have the V10 cable for the larger throttle body. I will try to get some pictures of the items I was talking about.

Item for you, first, make sure that with the cable end free the spring is pulling the inside portion all the way in, the upper portion of the pedal should be pulled all the way toward the firewall, if not with the strength of the return springs on the Sniper, you can probably use them and move the cable bracket as far back as possible. After first determining that, go under the dash and measure the "stroke" of the upper part of the throttle pedal arm from firewall or stop contact to the floorboard position, essentially start with it against what stops it at closed throttle inside the cab to where it is when the pedal arm is against the carpet.

This will be the maximum travel you can get without changes. I have found, that if you grab the pedal arm, not the plastic pedal it is possible to raise it off the carpet a bit to increase the travel at the cable end (old hot rodders trick).

The other item I already mentioned, plan on making or modifying a bracket, put your longer arm on the Sniper as close to vertical as possible, then stroke it to WOT and measure the absolute straight line distance it moves back, don't worry about the arc it travels in just the distance from closed to open. You may need to remove it and put it on something flat and use a square. This dimension is the distance the cable and throttle pedal arm need to move to get WOT. This should also make the initial opening easier.

I think there has to be a difference, cause the E0 number was replaced by the E7 number and both were replaced by the F2 number. We know the E7 is different as it says for use where there is interference with the carpet or floor mat.

I assume the pedal pads themselves are the same so I am going to grab some photos from ebay listings and scale them up to the same size for the pedal pad and see if there is a difference between pivot mount and the cable arm.

I know currently my truck I dont think gets full throttle easily with the rubber floor mat, I know I have passing gear setup to be right at wide open throttle on the carb and you have to nail it to the floor quite hard to get passing gear to engage. Thats why I am ok with making some bolt on changes. I just hope I can do something with the OE parts. I dont know if Edelbrock moved their mounting pad for the throttle bracket forward or not it is something I will have to check, I think before I pull my old motor I will measure from the bracket face to the throttle ball on the 2V carb then mount the bracket on the edelbrock intake and then measure the same distance and see if its the same. if it is the same measurement then the bracket was moved forward to compensate for the 4V. if it is not well then I will have to do some trial and error. Considering the sniper stealth is like 800 cfm which is way over kill for a little 306, I been thinking maybe 75% throttle opening wouldnt be a problem. Would still flow more cfm than the 600cfm I was going to run. Then I could always install a longer screw if need be for the kick down rod to make it engage at what ever is full pedal travel.

[Rusty_S85]

I think there has to be a difference, cause the E0 number was replaced by the E7 number and both were replaced by the F2 number. We know the E7 is different as it says for use where there is interference with the carpet or floor mat.

I assume the pedal pads themselves are the same so I am going to grab some photos from ebay listings and scale them up to the same size for the pedal pad and see if there is a difference between pivot mount and the cable arm.

I know currently my truck I dont think gets full throttle easily with the rubber floor mat, I know I have passing gear setup to be right at wide open throttle on the carb and you have to nail it to the floor quite hard to get passing gear to engage. Thats why I am ok with making some bolt on changes. I just hope I can do something with the OE parts. I dont know if Edelbrock moved their mounting pad for the throttle bracket forward or not it is something I will have to check, I think before I pull my old motor I will measure from the bracket face to the throttle ball on the 2V carb then mount the bracket on the edelbrock intake and then measure the same distance and see if its the same. if it is the same measurement then the bracket was moved forward to compensate for the 4V. if it is not well then I will have to do some trial and error. Considering the sniper stealth is like 800 cfm which is way over kill for a little 306, I been thinking maybe 75% throttle opening wouldnt be a problem. Would still flow more cfm than the 600cfm I was going to run. Then I could always install a longer screw if need be for the kick down rod to make it engage at what ever is full pedal travel.

Cant find a good photo to make a comparison but still looking, but this is what I was able to find and it does appear to me the distance from the pivot to the cable is longer on the newer one.

This one is listed as fitting 87 - 91 but it looks just like the one in my '82 so I believe this is a E0TZ throttle pedal and not the E7TZ which replaced it as an option.

This one here is the F2TA-9726-DA one listed for a 92 - 96 and you can see it looks different being a flat bar vs a c channel piece but it also appears to have quite a bit more material above the pivot point. I wish I knew why F2TA-9726-DA is not the same as the number NumberDummy provided as a replacement for the E0TZ and E7TZ which was F2TZ-9725-D. Thats something else I just noticed I keep typing 9726 but this one actually says 9725. Unless that is not the part number on the part but something else. I remember NumberDummy saying something along those lines that ford part numbers werent always on the parts but I thought that was just the engineering number while this has a traditional part number as found in the parts catalog. Just makes me very wary I so want to buy this pedal as it looks clean for $60 but I am also unsure if its what I would need to have more pull to offset what I am doing.

[Gary Lewis]

Cant find a good photo to make a comparison but still looking, but this is what I was able to find and it does appear to me the distance from the pivot to the cable is longer on the newer one.

This one is listed as fitting 87 - 91 but it looks just like the one in my '82 so I believe this is a E0TZ throttle pedal and not the E7TZ which replaced it as an option.

This one here is the F2TA-9726-DA one listed for a 92 - 96 and you can see it looks different being a flat bar vs a c channel piece but it also appears to have quite a bit more material above the pivot point. I wish I knew why F2TA-9726-DA is not the same as the number NumberDummy provided as a replacement for the E0TZ and E7TZ which was F2TZ-9725-D. Thats something else I just noticed I keep typing 9726 but this one actually says 9725. Unless that is not the part number on the part but something else. I remember NumberDummy saying something along those lines that ford part numbers werent always on the parts but I thought that was just the engineering number while this has a traditional part number as found in the parts catalog. Just makes me very wary I so want to buy this pedal as it looks clean for $60 but I am also unsure if its what I would need to have more pull to offset what I am doing.

If you ever get through to Bill/Numberdummy he will tell you what he's told me: Since 1965 Ford has never put a part number on a part. The number on a part is the ID or engineering #. He gave me three cross-reference books to go from ID to PN or vice versa.

Most ID #'s have the same generic # as the part number. But, for whatever reason, throttle pedals have a 9725 part number and a 9726 ID #.

[Rusty_S85]

If you ever get through to Bill/Numberdummy he will tell you what he's told me: Since 1965 Ford has never put a part number on a part. The number on a part is the ID or engineering #. He gave me three cross-reference books to go from ID to PN or vice versa.

Most ID #'s have the same generic # as the part number. But, for whatever reason, throttle pedals have a 9725 part number and a 9726 ID #.

Thats what he says but this sure looks like a part number but it doesnt match up what I believe it should be. Unless its an engineering number which would explain why it doesnt match the actual part number.

So I guess its safe to assume that this pedal would be the newest replacement now I just need to find out what was the final change made.

I did message the person with what I suspected was the E0TZ one about any numbers on the back of the mounting plate, they told me it had no numbers on it only numbers on the entire thing was on the back side of the pedal pad itself.

[Gary Lewis]

Thats what he says but this sure looks like a part number but it doesnt match up what I believe it should be. Unless its an engineering number which would explain why it doesnt match the actual part number.

So I guess its safe to assume that this pedal would be the newest replacement now I just need to find out what was the final change made.

I did message the person with what I suspected was the E0TZ one about any numbers on the back of the mounting plate, they told me it had no numbers on it only numbers on the entire thing was on the back side of the pedal pad itself.

You've just proven the point. The cross-reference I have digitized doesn't go back to E0, but it does have E2. And sure enough, part number E2TZ 9725-A has an ID # of E2TA 9726-CA. Any number on a part is not a part number. And while not all parts got an ID #, the vast majority did if you look closely enough.