JMUBullnose Posted August 8, 2018 Author Share Posted August 8, 2018 The only input I have on the topic is gasket selection. I did away with the old 4pc cork/rubber oil pan gaskets, and installed a 1pc Fel-Pro Perma-Dry Plus p/n OS13260T. The down side is that it costs 4x as much as the traditional 4pc gasket set-up, but it's one of those things that was worth the extra cost to me. There are likely cheaper 1pc options available...just look up the oil pan gasket for a newer model truck...maybe 1992 or there abouts...not sure when they actually switched over to the 1pc rubber gasket. That's actually the exact gasket I was eyeballing. Figured since I was going to be in there, the pickup tube/screen might be an easy replace as well - give me a good baseline there. $30 for a quality gasket doesn't strike me as too terribly expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted August 8, 2018 Share Posted August 8, 2018 Figured since I was going to be in there, the pickup tube/screen might be an easy replace as well - give me a good baseline there. I know the oil pump, tube, pickup was all like new in my engine when we took it apart. It had very low miles for it's age...35k maybe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 8, 2018 Share Posted August 8, 2018 Thanks for the input! I'm also considering dropping the pan, redoing gasket, oil pickup tube etc - anyone ever done that from under the truck? Or am I just asking for a lot of creative cursing? Reason for looking into doing that? The AOD transmission is just covered in a sheen of oil (I need to take a before/after photo when I go to degrease) There's a guy on FTE that says if he EVER gets the desire to change a pan gasket in situ he'll just pour gas on the truck and light it. Seriously though, it is not a fun task. However, it depends on the engine and your 302 is probably the easiest there is. That's because it is the smallest, and room is the main issue. Brandon and I did it on his 351W, which is a bit bigger than your 302, and it wasn't fun. But we did get it done. The main things are to pull the exhaust, air cleaner, and the fan shroud. Then you'll disconnect the motor mounts and jack the front of the engine up as high as you can go. That should get you enough clearance to drop the pan and get it out. But, you are going to have a continual oil drip (rain?) that will make working in there a serious pain if you don't plan ahead. I think draining the oil several days ahead of pulling the pan would be a good idea. On the dip stick tube, where is it leaking? Dad's pan was leaking at the flange that was riveted to the pan. I drilled the rivets out, tapped the flange, used The Right Stuff as the gasket, and put it together with loctite to ensure the screws won't back out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMUBullnose Posted August 9, 2018 Author Share Posted August 9, 2018 Gary - hoping to tackle the cowl this afternoon after work. I was looking through the lubrication specifications section for motor oil types. What I can't seem to get a quick sense on is the volume and best type of motor oil for the 302. I plan on changing the oil soon (next week or so) - anyone have some insight on best viscosity/weight and typical volume? And yeah - I figure this is in the manual...BUT i'm at work and the little'uns and other projects keep me away from perusing! ;) Gary - I replaced the cowl seal last night. Super easy...probably one of the quickest and easiest repairs I've done to this truck! All in all it took me 20 minutes or so. Then I used the left over adhesive to finish up some roofing on my kids playhouse - how bout that?? Old seal was definitely worn out - Looked like the factory original. I used a plastic scraper to get off any remnants of gasket material that were stuck to the truck still. Came off pretty easily with a little persuasion. After scraping I applied the adhesive straight to the truck instead of the back of the seal as I had visions of accidentally smearing this stuff all over my engine and engine bay! Then I cut a section of the garage seal using the old seal as a template, poked holes through with a screwdriver and reused the original screws with new washers like you did. After that, I worked my way driver side to passenger and installed the screws one by one. Afterwards I too had some waviness and was worried that some of the seal wouldn't adhere to the neoprene adhesive so I ended up adding two more screws (should be obvious in the photo). All in all - it looks like it seals up nicely to the hood when closed. I'm going to test the seal today and pour some water on it to see if I need to add some more adhesive along the top of the cowl where it meets the frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMUBullnose Posted August 9, 2018 Author Share Posted August 9, 2018 There's a guy on FTE that says if he EVER gets the desire to change a pan gasket in situ he'll just pour gas on the truck and light it. Seriously though, it is not a fun task. However, it depends on the engine and your 302 is probably the easiest there is. That's because it is the smallest, and room is the main issue. Brandon and I did it on his 351W, which is a bit bigger than your 302, and it wasn't fun. But we did get it done. The main things are to pull the exhaust, air cleaner, and the fan shroud. Then you'll disconnect the motor mounts and jack the front of the engine up as high as you can go. That should get you enough clearance to drop the pan and get it out. But, you are going to have a continual oil drip (rain?) that will make working in there a serious pain if you don't plan ahead. I think draining the oil several days ahead of pulling the pan would be a good idea. On the dip stick tube, where is it leaking? Dad's pan was leaking at the flange that was riveted to the pan. I drilled the rivets out, tapped the flange, used The Right Stuff as the gasket, and put it together with loctite to ensure the screws won't back out. Gary - I actually am not sure where the leak is. I seriously hope it's not a rear main seal. I'm going to clean the whole area up first and then see if/where I might be seeing some leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 9, 2018 Share Posted August 9, 2018 Gary - I actually am not sure where the leak is. I seriously hope it's not a rear main seal. I'm going to clean the whole area up first and then see if/where I might be seeing some leaks. Your cowl seal installation looks good! I'll bet it seals nicely w/o more screws. On the oil leak, I've read that the parts stores have a chemical you can add to the oil that glows with black light to let you find the leaks. But I've not done it so don't know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMUBullnose Posted August 9, 2018 Author Share Posted August 9, 2018 Your cowl seal installation looks good! I'll bet it seals nicely w/o more screws. On the oil leak, I've read that the parts stores have a chemical you can add to the oil that glows with black light to let you find the leaks. But I've not done it so don't know. Gary - I had forgotten about the dye! Thanks for the reminder. I don't plan on any more screws in that bad boy! Just maybe some more sealant if I need it - overall very happy with finished product. Kind of bummed - it was supposed to storm last night (but didn't) so I didn't get to see if it worked or not.Ā Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMUBullnose Posted August 13, 2018 Author Share Posted August 13, 2018 Gary - I had forgotten about the dye! Thanks for the reminder. I don't plan on any more screws in that bad boy! Just maybe some more sealant if I need it - overall very happy with finished product. Kind of bummed - it was supposed to storm last night (but didn't) so I didn't get to see if it worked or not. Finally got around to taking photos of the plugs I pulled when swapping out plugs and wires a week or so ago. What do y'all think? I looked at a few resources online and overall I think they're showing okay/normal wear & run conditions. Thoughts? First photo is Driver's side, Cylinder 1 on Left, 4 on right. Second is passenger side, same orientation: 5 on Left, 8 on Right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 13, 2018 Share Posted August 13, 2018 Finally got around to taking photos of the plugs I pulled when swapping out plugs and wires a week or so ago. What do y'all think? I looked at a few resources online and overall I think they're showing okay/normal wear & run conditions. Thoughts? First photo is Driver's side, Cylinder 1 on Left, 4 on right. Second is passenger side, same orientation: 5 on Left, 8 on Right. Iām not an expert, but they look good to me. š Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMUBullnose Posted August 27, 2018 Author Share Posted August 27, 2018 Iām not an expert, but they look good to me. š Actually took the truck out to a Cars & Coffee on Saturday morning - truck ran great. Started on the second crank and ran great the whole trip. No stumbling whatsoever! I noticed on the way home that it's shifting into gear a bit early (~35mph and my acceleration is slow to get up to 40/45 mph). If I remember right - not too difficult a fix. There were some impressive classic MG's, Healy's even a classic Maserati and an Aston Martin DB2. So the attention to Old Red was negligible but I don't mind too much as I was drooling over the other cars and talking to owners. Once I get the engine bay all gussied up, I'll be happy to prop the hood like a lot of people were doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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