1984 F-150 302 Windsor 2WD - "Old Red"

[JMUBullnose]

LOL! That explains why I missed the link. I posted and asked where you found that, and as soon as the post showed up I saw the link. So I edited the question out of my post. Dueling edits!

$1800 isn't bad for an E4OD. However, I didn't read enough of their advert to see what all they do to it in the rebuild. I spent $2400 on the one for Dad's truck, but then it has a lot of significant upgrades that easily would have added up to the $600 difference - if not more.

They say that they do the following in the email quote I received:

-Remanufactured pump, with new line bore bushings to eliminate leaks and provide superior flow and durability.

-Remanufactured valve body, with complete system correction and recalibration kit, improves pressure control and shift quality.

-Remanufactured and improved torque converter tested for leaks, concentricity, and balance. Upgrades exceed OE requirements and eliminate the possibilities of front seal leaks, premature bushing wear, and vibration.

-All new, bushings installed in key locations to improve internal fluid flow control and fluid pressures.

-Complete system correction and recalibration kit installed to address several OE flaws. Modifications include updates to servos, the PR system, and valve body accumulators.

-Heavy-duty recalibration kit installed to reduce slippage and increase durability.

-Complete road simulation using a dynamometer testing program called C.A.R.S. (Computer Aided Road Simulation). Every transmission is cold and hot tested before shipment.

Gary - what do you think about the tuning I posted above? I'm still having some weird performance issues on the lower band...maybe it's fuel/ignition, maybe its the transmission. One I did notice - shifting out of OD did nothing to alleviate the studdering/shuddering/slamming that was sometimes occurring as I tried to accelerate away from a stop light at a medium rate (eg - not gentle cruise/roll out and not flooring it).

 

[Gary Lewis]

They say that they do the following in the email quote I received:

-Remanufactured pump, with new line bore bushings to eliminate leaks and provide superior flow and durability.

-Remanufactured valve body, with complete system correction and recalibration kit, improves pressure control and shift quality.

-Remanufactured and improved torque converter tested for leaks, concentricity, and balance. Upgrades exceed OE requirements and eliminate the possibilities of front seal leaks, premature bushing wear, and vibration.

-All new, bushings installed in key locations to improve internal fluid flow control and fluid pressures.

-Complete system correction and recalibration kit installed to address several OE flaws. Modifications include updates to servos, the PR system, and valve body accumulators.

-Heavy-duty recalibration kit installed to reduce slippage and increase durability.

-Complete road simulation using a dynamometer testing program called C.A.R.S. (Computer Aided Road Simulation). Every transmission is cold and hot tested before shipment.

Gary - what do you think about the tuning I posted above? I'm still having some weird performance issues on the lower band...maybe it's fuel/ignition, maybe its the transmission. One I did notice - shifting out of OD did nothing to alleviate the studdering/shuddering/slamming that was sometimes occurring as I tried to accelerate away from a stop light at a medium rate (eg - not gentle cruise/roll out and not flooring it).

I don't know enough about the AOD to comment about those procedures. But it seems like a reputable place, so they are probably good.

However, if you are having the problem both in OD and out of OD then it may not be the transmission. Perhaps it is engine related? Ignition can be on and off, causing serious bucking. Is it worse when the engine is hot or cold? Does it happen under heavy throttle as well as medium throttle? In other words, is it throttle-related?

[JMUBullnose]

I don't know enough about the AOD to comment about those procedures. But it seems like a reputable place, so they are probably good.However, if you are having the problem both in OD and out of OD then it may not be the transmission. Perhaps it is engine related? Ignition can be on and off, causing serious bucking. Is it worse when the engine is hot or cold? Does it happen under heavy throttle as well as medium throttle? In other words, is it throttle-related?

Gary - Great questions. I definitely notice the issues once the engine is hot. Leading me to start thinking it's fuel or ignition related. I've got plugs and wires sitting here in the shop and a new fuel filter on the way. I think that's my first stop on this fun time. But I'm also intrigued by the adjustment I found on the transmission site.

"What GIS hath wrought, let no man, except management, tear asunder" - A. Wise Analyst

 

 

 

 

On Thu, Apr 26, 2018 at 8:23 AM, Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <redacted_email_address> wrote:

 

 

 

 

[85lebaront2]

Ok, first item, the AOD acts like a manual transmission in 3rd and somewhat like one in 4th. In 3rd there is a shaft in the input that goes into a damper spring cushion in the front of the torque converter, this directly connected to the engine. This shaft goes through the hollow turbine shaft and into the direct clutch. This directly connects the crankshaft to the output shaft, just like 3rd in an SROD manual transmission. As a result there is no "cushioning" of engine irregularities just like with a manual transmission.

In 4th, the direct clutch stays on, but the forward clutch (the one that drives a C4 or C6 and even an E4OD in the forward gears) is released and the OD band (which looks like it should be 2nd gear) holds the drum making the gear set overdrive the output shaft at I think 0.7:1. It is a fairly compact transmission as it was designed to roughly fit where a C4 or FMX went. It was offered in cars behind the 351W.

I will see if I can find some power flow diagrams and post them.

[JMUBullnose]

Ok, first item, the AOD acts like a manual transmission in 3rd and somewhat like one in 4th. In 3rd there is a shaft in the input that goes into a damper spring cushion in the front of the torque converter, this directly connected to the engine. This shaft goes through the hollow turbine shaft and into the direct clutch. This directly connects the crankshaft to the output shaft, just like 3rd in an SROD manual transmission. As a result there is no "cushioning" of engine irregularities just like with a manual transmission.

In 4th, the direct clutch stays on, but the forward clutch (the one that drives a C4 or C6 and even an E4OD in the forward gears) is released and the OD band (which looks like it should be 2nd gear) holds the drum making the gear set overdrive the output shaft at I think 0.7:1. It is a fairly compact transmission as it was designed to roughly fit where a C4 or FMX went. It was offered in cars behind the 351W.

I will see if I can find some power flow diagrams and post them.

Alright - I think I understand what you're saying. That's a pretty good description!

Any thoughts on the adjustment parameters that website suggested?

[85lebaront2]

Alright - I think I understand what you're saying. That's a pretty good description!

Any thoughts on the adjustment parameters that website suggested?

I never did them that way, but the 45 mph kickdown test sounds about right. Biggest thing is too many turns in and it will "hunt" between 3 and 4, too far out and it will shift early, but slip and burn up. FWIW, properly adjusted the 2-3 shift will be a little firm at part throttle since you go into a direct mechanical connection from engine to driveshaft.

Those of us old enough to have worked on and maybe even owned a GM Roto-Hydramatic AKA Slim Jim know the feeling, only on those it was the 1-2 shift where it went straight mechanical connection albeit through the gearset.

[JMUBullnose]

I don't know enough about the AOD to comment about those procedures. But it seems like a reputable place, so they are probably good.

However, if you are having the problem both in OD and out of OD then it may not be the transmission. Perhaps it is engine related? Ignition can be on and off, causing serious bucking. Is it worse when the engine is hot or cold? Does it happen under heavy throttle as well as medium throttle? In other words, is it throttle-related?

Gary - Got my shiny new fuel filter, hoping to replace it and the plugs/wires this weekend. (Last weekend was consumed by habitat for humanity type work)

Random question on the fuel filter (to the larger hivemind as well!) - would you put any blue threadlocker or teflon tape equivalent on the threads? Don't want it working it's way off while the vehicle is in operation!

Greg

[Gary Lewis]

I don't know enough about the AOD to comment about those procedures. But it seems like a reputable place, so they are probably good.

However, if you are having the problem both in OD and out of OD then it may not be the transmission. Perhaps it is engine related? Ignition can be on and off, causing serious bucking. Is it worse when the engine is hot or cold? Does it happen under heavy throttle as well as medium throttle? In other words, is it throttle-related?

Gary - Got my shiny new fuel filter, hoping to replace it and the plugs/wires this weekend. (Last weekend was consumed by habitat for humanity type work)

Random question on the fuel filter (to the larger hivemind as well!) - would you put any blue threadlocker or teflon tape equivalent on the threads? Don't want it working it's way off while the vehicle is in operation!

Greg

If this is the filter that screws into the carb then you could use some PTFE paste on the threads. But keep it at least one turn back of the leading edge of the threads so it can't get into the fuel system. However, it isn't necessary as you are dealing with tapered pipe threads that do a good job of both sealing and locking.

[JMUBullnose]

If this is the filter that screws into the carb then you could use some PTFE paste on the threads. But keep it at least one turn back of the leading edge of the threads so it can't get into the fuel system. However, it isn't necessary as you are dealing with tapered pipe threads that do a good job of both sealing and locking.

Ahh - good to know - I didn't know if they had tapered fittings or not!  Hopefully I can tackle some of this today.

"What GIS hath wrought, let no man, except management, tear asunder" - A. Wise Analyst

 

 

 

 

On Mon, Apr 30, 2018 at 4:18 PM, Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <redacted_email_address> wrote:

 

 

 

 

[JMUBullnose]

If this is the filter that screws into the carb then you could use some PTFE paste on the threads. But keep it at least one turn back of the leading edge of the threads so it can't get into the fuel system. However, it isn't necessary as you are dealing with tapered pipe threads that do a good job of both sealing and locking.

Well - back to report that I got the fuel filter swapped out. Plugs and wires not done yet but while I was in the engine bay I took a moment to check all my spark plug wires and found 2 that were loose (pulled off extremely easily). I reseated those and felt them 'click' on - so now all is secure there.

I did have a bit of time getting the fitting from the fuel line not to leak once snugged into the fuel filter. Turned out to be an alignment issue so the flared end of the fuel line was not seating properly where it meets the fuel filter. After I fixed that alignment and tightened back down - no more leak! I haven't driven it around the neighborhood yet to see if it shakes loose or backs off and starts leaking but I will in the next day or two.

Once I had the fuel leak solved, I left the engine idling while observing/listening. I accidentally pushed down on the linkage between the choke housing/pulldown housing/pull down lever. Engine died immediately. Nothing seemed to have come off - everything was still connected. Restarting the engine proved to be a pain - it's like the choke didn't set the last time and it would not hold idle. I had to feather the throttle each time to get the truck to start and it would only hold idle for a couple minutes before just stopping, no die down in the engine like it was getting starved, just all of a sudden - stop.

I was running out of time for the day so I had to button it back together and haven't been able to go back out to see if it just needed some time rest or what. Thoughts on where to trouble shoot next?

I also shot some video of the truck idling if anyone wants to take a gander - I'll figure out where to host it and share it out if interested.