Rembrant Posted April 20, 2018 Share Posted April 20, 2018 I would love to add a tachometer to this truck - how hard is it to get the different printed circuit and a tach? No problem. I added one to mine last fall. If you buy a whole cluster, then you get the tach and the printed circuit with it. I bought a whole cluster, I think it was $75 USD. Rather than swapping the tach into mine, I simply swapped my speedo into the new cluster. Bam, done. Then follow Gary's awesome write-ups on painting the gauge needles, and you're showroom shiny. Ron/Reamer has a cluster for sale on the main page just listed this morning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted April 20, 2018 Share Posted April 20, 2018 I would love to add a tachometer to this truck - how hard is it to get the different printed circuit and a tach? Well it helps if you know of some knuckle head that pulls all of them that he finds at the junkyard and hoards them for no particular reason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted April 20, 2018 Share Posted April 20, 2018 Well it helps if you know of some knuckle head that pulls all of them that he finds at the junkyard and hoards them for no particular reason LOL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMUBullnose Posted April 20, 2018 Author Share Posted April 20, 2018 Well it helps if you know of some knuckle head that pulls all of them that he finds at the junkyard and hoards them for no particular reason LOL. Hmmm...wonder if that guy may or may not be able to help me... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ctubutis Posted April 21, 2018 Share Posted April 21, 2018 Well it helps if you know of some knuckle head that pulls all of them that he finds at the junkyard and hoards them for no particular reason Oh, man..... I used to do that kind of stuff, you wouldn't believe the amount of junk/stuff (mostly wiring) I threw away last summer before finishing my garage.... sheesh. But I kept a lot, too, because I still have a bed + cab waiting to be installed on my own truck. And 3 Taurii in various states of disrepair. I went to my local JY just on a whim last weekend, I don't think I saw *even one* gen7 truck out there, these things are getting harder to find parts for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted April 21, 2018 Share Posted April 21, 2018 Well it helps if you know of some knuckle head that pulls all of them that he finds at the junkyard and hoards them for no particular reason Oh, man..... I used to do that kind of stuff, you wouldn't believe the amount of junk/stuff (mostly wiring) I threw away last summer before finishing my garage.... sheesh. But I kept a lot, too, because I still have a bed + cab waiting to be installed on my own truck. And 3 Taurii in various states of disrepair. I went to my local JY just on a whim last weekend, I don't think I saw *even one* gen7 truck out there, these things are getting harder to find parts for. I have indeed accumulated a lot of junk. More than I need. But it is good junk, and I do find new homes for a lot of it. I dread the day when the parts supply dries up at the junkyard. I now for many that is already a reality. That is partly why I hoard, at least until my trucks are where I want them. I just know at some point I will thank myself when I have some critical spares to fall back on when bullnose parts become unobtanium. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMUBullnose Posted April 26, 2018 Author Share Posted April 26, 2018 On the side of the carburetor, there is a lever inboard of the main throttle lever. There is a rod attached to this lever. The lever should be free to move, meaning you can push it to the rear and it should go back moving the rod back and down, then come forward when released. There is an adjusting screw on the upper part of this lever that should be touching the "tang" on the throttle lever, this is your adjustment point. Turning the screw in (head clockwise viewed from the back) will make the shifts later and firmer, turning it out earlier and softer. If the carburetor has been changed from the original Motorcraft and the replacement was not for an AOD transmission, then Lokar makes a cable system to replace the rod, anyone who has done a 2 barrel to 4 barrel swap on these needs this to get the shift quality correct. In case you are wondering, I am the one who wrote the automatic transmission information. I found this while doing some research on rebuilding the trans myself. So many little parts, from that aspect a bit daunting! But I think I'm adding it to my list of winter projects: Carb rebuild, transmission rebuild.... Anyhow, here's what I found: ROD TYPE-TV ADJUSTMENT 1. Remove the air cleaner. Have someone floor the gas pedal from inside the car while you bend the THROTTLE cable bracket until the butterfly arm bottoms solidly on it's stop. 2. Turn the adjustment screw IN until 13 threads are sticking out the front of the adjuster arm. (Approx. 7/16") 3. Start the engine with the AIR OFF and leave it OFF. 4. While the engine is idling, loosen the adjustment bolt on the arm on the side of the transmission with a 13mm socket one full turn. Push the arm up (towards the top of the vehicle) and gently tighten the bolt. 5. Now go back to the top adjustment and back off 13 turns. 6. Now ROAD TEST. Place the selector in the '3' position and cruise at 45 mph. Floor the throttle, you will have no 3-2 kickdown. Turn the adjuster screw in exactly one turn at a time until you have kickdown at 45 mph. Then, turn the screw in 3 more turns. You will be in the middle of the TV adjustment. 7. Now ROAD TEST for shift feel and timing. You can adjust in or out up to 2 turns to improve shift quality. 8. Replace the air cleaner. I got it from here: Ford AOD Transmission Also whats the difference between the AOD and the E4OD? Same thing, just different nomenclature? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 26, 2018 Share Posted April 26, 2018 I found this while doing some research on rebuilding the trans myself. So many little parts, from that aspect a bit daunting! But I think I'm adding it to my list of winter projects: Carb rebuild, transmission rebuild.... Anyhow, here's what I found: ROD TYPE-TV ADJUSTMENT 1. Remove the air cleaner. Have someone floor the gas pedal from inside the car while you bend the THROTTLE cable bracket until the butterfly arm bottoms solidly on it's stop. 2. Turn the adjustment screw IN until 13 threads are sticking out the front of the adjuster arm. (Approx. 7/16") 3. Start the engine with the AIR OFF and leave it OFF. 4. While the engine is idling, loosen the adjustment bolt on the arm on the side of the transmission with a 13mm socket one full turn. Push the arm up (towards the top of the vehicle) and gently tighten the bolt. 5. Now go back to the top adjustment and back off 13 turns. 6. Now ROAD TEST. Place the selector in the '3' position and cruise at 45 mph. Floor the throttle, you will have no 3-2 kickdown. Turn the adjuster screw in exactly one turn at a time until you have kickdown at 45 mph. Then, turn the screw in 3 more turns. You will be in the middle of the TV adjustment. 7. Now ROAD TEST for shift feel and timing. You can adjust in or out up to 2 turns to improve shift quality. 8. Replace the air cleaner. I got it from here: Ford AOD Transmission Also whats the difference between the AOD and the E4OD? Same thing, just different nomenclature? That's a good find. As for the differences, the E4OD is based on the C6 and is a MUCH bigger transmission than the AOD. It stands for Electronic 4 (speed) Over Drive. Completely different transmission than the AOD. Where the biggest engine the AOD was put behind was the 302/5.0L, the E4OD was used behind the 460's, the diesels, and the V10's. Have a friend with one in a motorhome behind a V10. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMUBullnose Posted April 26, 2018 Author Share Posted April 26, 2018 That's a good find. As for the differences, the E4OD is based on the C6 and is a MUCH bigger transmission than the AOD. It stands for Electronic 4 (speed) Over Drive. Completely different transmission than the AOD. Where the biggest engine the AOD was put behind was the 302/5.0L, the E4OD was used behind the 460's, the diesels, and the V10's. Have a friend with one in a motorhome behind a V10. Gary - I edited the post to include the link to the Ford AOD Transmission page I found. Here it is again: http://www.txchange.com/aodadj.htm Interesting on the E4OD - I was poking around to see how much a rebuilt transmission would cost and was intrigued by these guys: Street Smart Transmissions. Got a quote from them for a drop shipped transmission and they were quoting me an E4OD not the AOD. (Also quoted for $1800) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 26, 2018 Share Posted April 26, 2018 Gary - I edited the post to include the link to the Ford AOD Transmission page I found. Here it is again: http://www.txchange.com/aodadj.htm Interesting on the E4OD - I was poking around to see how much a rebuilt transmission would cost and was intrigued by these guys: Street Smart Transmissions. Got a quote from them for a drop shipped transmission and they were quoting me an E4OD not the AOD. (Also quoted for $1800) LOL! That explains why I missed the link. I posted and asked where you found that, and as soon as the post showed up I saw the link. So I edited the question out of my post. Dueling edits! $1800 isn't bad for an E4OD. However, I didn't read enough of their advert to see what all they do to it in the rebuild. I spent $2400 on the one for Dad's truck, but then it has a lot of significant upgrades that easily would have added up to the $600 difference - if not more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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