Gary Lewis Posted May 18, 2019 Share Posted May 18, 2019 Gary - not a problem, I appreciate the feedback! Sitting in class all day today anyhow, so it's not like I'm going to run right out and try it. Luckily I had the forethought to take a photo of the back of the carb/choke. Includes the cap. I can get back in there tomorrow and look at the actual back of the choke. For the cowl seal - i used your DIY process with the garage door seal kit. I may need to go check and make sure it's sealed nicely along the firewall. What about the gasket on the actual air cleaner lid? Is that a make your own type of seal? Mine is missing a chunk - letting water into the air cleaner bowl. In the second photo - the left hand side of the cleaner has .5" - 1" of water standing in it! So - regarding the fuel filter - I realize now that I wasn't clear what I was circling! I replaced the fuel filter (on the left) about a year ago and am pretty sure it's seated nicely. The drip I kept seeing looked like it was coming from that vacuum port I circled but like you said that shouldn't have fuel. I'll know more when I get around to pulling the carb and rebuilding. I'll have to take a measurement of how much slack goes into the parking cable line when released. (just measure droop from the top of the rail when engaged and not engaged). Thanks as always, you guys have been great. If I'm having choke heating issues, might explain why in the cold I had a very hard time keeping the truck running but yesterday when it's warm...no problems at all. From the pic of the choke I don't see the fitting for hot air. There is something there but it looks to be the generic casting that all of the 2150 chokes had, although some of them didn't have that casting drilled and tapped for the fitting. So, check out the fitting that is circled below. Is it blank, or is it open? And, in that pic there's an arrow to a connector. What is the color of the wire into it? If it is white w/a black stripe then it is from the alternator's stator connector and that means the choke heater is an electric assist unit, meaning it is supposed to be used in conjunction with hot air via the connection in the circle. But it is possible that someone changed out the heater? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMUBullnose Posted May 18, 2019 Author Share Posted May 18, 2019 From the pic of the choke I don't see the fitting for hot air. There is something there but it looks to be the generic casting that all of the 2150 chokes had, although some of them didn't have that casting drilled and tapped for the fitting. So, check out the fitting that is circled below. Is it blank, or is it open? And, in that pic there's an arrow to a connector. What is the color of the wire into it? If it is white w/a black stripe then it is from the alternator's stator connector and that means the choke heater is an electric assist unit, meaning it is supposed to be used in conjunction with hot air via the connection in the circle. But it is possible that someone changed out the heater? Gary - Thanks as always. I'll take a closer look tomorrow and a better photo. What you mentioned about the heater just tickled a memory. That heater was definitely replaced by my local shop a couple years ago but that should have been the extent of the work. I don't have a good photo of the wire that goes to the cap on me- it looks like it is white with a black stripe in the one shot I can see it. I'll have to go back in the am and trace the wire and take a good look. There's also a fitting on the back of the carb that isn't hooked up to anything... Should there be something feeding to it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 18, 2019 Share Posted May 18, 2019 Gary - Thanks as always. I'll take a closer look tomorrow and a better photo. What you mentioned about the heater just tickled a memory. That heater was definitely replaced by my local shop a couple years ago but that should have been the extent of the work. I don't have a good photo of the wire that goes to the cap on me- it looks like it is white with a black stripe in the one shot I can see it. I'll have to go back in the am and trace the wire and take a good look. There's also a fitting on the back of the carb that isn't hooked up to anything... Should there be something feeding to it? The HVAC "heater" and the choke hot air are two different things. The choke's hot air, if so equipped, comes from the loop shown below on the right, which was taken from that Chokes page linked to above. You can see in that pic where air comes from on the back of the carb via the fitting you were questioning, which provides filtered air. Then it flows down and through a passage in the exhaust manifold, and then back up to the fitting I'm questioning. From there it is drawn across the bi-metallic spring in the choke and then into the carb, mixing with the rest of the air about to enter the engine. So if your carb isn't set up for a hot-air choke then the fitting you are questioning will not be used, but should be capped as it'll allow un-filtered air into the clean, already-filtered air, otherwise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 18, 2019 Share Posted May 18, 2019 Gary - Thanks as always. I'll take a closer look tomorrow and a better photo. What you mentioned about the heater just tickled a memory. That heater was definitely replaced by my local shop a couple years ago but that should have been the extent of the work. I don't have a good photo of the wire that goes to the cap on me- it looks like it is white with a black stripe in the one shot I can see it. I'll have to go back in the am and trace the wire and take a good look. There's also a fitting on the back of the carb that isn't hooked up to anything... Should there be something feeding to it? And, to save you tracing, a white/black wire should go to the back of the alternator to the S terminal, which stands for Stator. But look closely at what lettering there is on the black choke cap. Some tell the voltage, and that makes a huge difference. If it is 12v then it is an all-electric cap, which should be used with a choke casting with the hot air port blank, meaning closed. But if it says 6 or 7 volts, I don't remember which, it is for use with hot air. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMUBullnose Posted May 18, 2019 Author Share Posted May 18, 2019 And, to save you tracing, a white/black wire should go to the back of the alternator to the S terminal, which stands for Stator. But look closely at what lettering there is on the black choke cap. Some tell the voltage, and that makes a huge difference. If it is 12v then it is an all-electric cap, which should be used with a choke casting with the hot air port blank, meaning closed. But if it says 6 or 7 volts, I don't remember which, it is for use with hot air. Awesome - I will Gary. Back to the air cleaner lid - any one know if the gaskets are DIY or if they're actually sold? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 18, 2019 Share Posted May 18, 2019 Awesome - I will Gary. Back to the air cleaner lid - any one know if the gaskets are DIY or if they're actually sold? Sorry. I forgot the air cleaner. I've never had water in the air cleaner. But I've had lots of water on the lid and some then went down the stud in the center and through the carb into the engine. And with the way the lid curves down on the edges outside the base I don't think the gasket in question is where the water is getting in. But your air cleaner has the temp sensor poking through the lid and it might come through there. So I don't think sealing the perimeter of the lid will make a difference. My guess is that your seal to the cowl, meaning between the garage door gasket and the cowl, isn't water tight. I had problems there when I originally used RTV, which did not stick to the seal. Then I had to clean all that off in order to use the Black Jack, which solved the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted May 18, 2019 Share Posted May 18, 2019 Awesome - I will Gary. Back to the air cleaner lid - any one know if the gaskets are DIY or if they're actually sold? Even if it IS available (which I doubt), I wouldn't trust it to be a modern durable material. I'd still DIM using black foam rubber self-adhesive weatherstrip. But I'd put more effort into the seal between the wing nut & the lid, since that's a funnel that puts water straight into the carb throat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMUBullnose Posted May 18, 2019 Author Share Posted May 18, 2019 Even if it IS available (which I doubt), I wouldn't trust it to be a modern durable material. I'd still DIM using black foam rubber self-adhesive weatherstrip. But I'd put more effort into the seal between the wing nut & the lid, since that's a funnel that puts water straight into the carb throat. Yeah I haven't seen it available anywhere. So....is there supposed to be an o-ring under the wing nut originally? I'm assuming not - I should probably triple check my cowl seal as a first step - I do like the idea looking at the seal between wing nut and lid as well! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 18, 2019 Share Posted May 18, 2019 Yeah I haven't seen it available anywhere. So....is there supposed to be an o-ring under the wing nut originally? I'm assuming not - I should probably triple check my cowl seal as a first step - I do like the idea looking at the seal between wing nut and lid as well! No, there wasn't a seal under the wing nut, but it is a good idea to put one there, although it needs to seal around the threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMUBullnose Posted September 5, 2019 Author Share Posted September 5, 2019 No, there wasn't a seal under the wing nut, but it is a good idea to put one there, although it needs to seal around the threads. Wow - I have not been on here actively in a while. It seems to sync up with when I started a certificate program that was running on the weekends. NO Saturdays at all this Summer. Woof! Luckily that wraps up this Saturday...just in time for me to head SE in a small plane. (Here's hoping Dorian doesn't do too much damage to the small airports) I haven't been able to revisit the choke/tuning yet but plan to. However, I DID change the oil & filter over the long weekend and also spent some time degreasing the caked on gunk on the underside of the transmission. Not sure where it came from or if it still is leaking but we'll see soon. I'm going to add some fluorescing dye and drive around a bit if I can get time this weekend - there is even caked grease/oil/gunk on *top* of the bell housing. So, hopefully I'll figure out where the leak is coming from in the next month or so. Could be rear main seal, could be valve covers. Hopefully cooler weather is on the way but with that brings the necessity of figuring out the cold weather starting issues. So, I'll chase the wire coming off the choke heater and see if it goes to Alternator. The LMC power windows that my grandfather put in are great, except all of a sudden the Driver's side kit is skipping when I try to raise the window. Hopefully just a misaligned gear and I can reinstall. Goes up just fine if I give it some help by pulling on the top of the window. Always a project! But I do love this truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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