jdavidsmi Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 I was having trouble with the gauges and decided to replace the ICVR with a new DE-SWADJ3. I got everything put back together yesterday and ran into a problem. I cannot get the voltage of the new ICVR to adjust below 8.55 volts, not near the 5.4 needed. I rechecked all my steps againce the instructions but i cannot figure it out. Could i have a bad one? Was i too slow in adjusting it and messed it up? Any Ideas or thoughts? Side note; all the dash lights are LED's if that makes a difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 I assume you are turning the adjustment screw. Are you seeing any voltage change? And, do you have some load on it? If the screw doesn't make any difference when there's a load on the regulator then you must have a bad one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdavidsmi Posted March 7, 2018 Author Share Posted March 7, 2018 I assume you are turning the adjustment screw. Are you seeing any voltage change? And, do you have some load on it? If the screw doesn't make any difference when there's a load on the regulator then you must have a bad one. When I turned on the key the volts was at 12.3. I started adjusting the little screw, and it slowly dropped to 8.55. I turned on the lights but there was no change. I then turned everything off and recheck my ground, and my volts meter clips making sure I had set it up correct . turned the key back on and the adjustment screw will not back off anymore. It will increase volts. But not decrease. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdavidsmi Posted March 8, 2018 Author Share Posted March 8, 2018 When I turned on the key the volts was at 12.3. I started adjusting the little screw, and it slowly dropped to 8.55. I turned on the lights but there was no change. I then turned everything off and recheck my ground, and my volts meter clips making sure I had set it up correct . turned the key back on and the adjustment screw will not back off anymore. It will increase volts. But not decrease. I put in a help ticket last night to Dimension engineering.com to get there input. my feelings is a bad DE- swadjs. waiting there response. David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 I put in a help ticket last night to Dimension engineering.com to get there input. my feelings is a bad DE- swadjs. waiting there response. David I hope they get back w/you quickly. However, I forgot to respond to your last post. When I asked about "load" on the regulator I meant was it connected to the gauges? Some regulators won't come down to their lower limits w/o some load on them. And the only load that regulator would have would be the gauges themselves. Not the lights in the instrument cluster, but the gauges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 14, 2018 Share Posted March 14, 2018 I hope they get back w/you quickly. However, I forgot to respond to your last post. When I asked about "load" on the regulator I meant was it connected to the gauges? Some regulators won't come down to their lower limits w/o some load on them. And the only load that regulator would have would be the gauges themselves. Not the lights in the instrument cluster, but the gauges. Any news on this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdavidsmi Posted March 15, 2018 Author Share Posted March 15, 2018 Any news on this? :nabble_smiley_blush:Yes thank goodness. I have a broken ribbon wire where the male 9volt terminal is mounted to the plastic sheet. and if things were wiggled just right current could flow. After a few emails with the help desk at Dimension Engineering. they wanted me to return the DE-SWADJ3 to them to test. Once i had the instrument cluster out of the truck and started to remove the DE-SWADJ3, I notice the wire was loose, and then of course broken. All of the ribbon wires have come loose from the plastic in this area, where the ICVR is mounted. I have just let it sit a couple of days until i figure out if I want to try and fix, get a new one or find one on crags list. Once I remove the DE-SWADJ3 from the instrument cluster, I wired it to the battery and was able to adjust the voltage right on the money. I think the adjustments should be made before the DE-SWADJ3 is installed would have made it a lot easier for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 15, 2018 Share Posted March 15, 2018 :nabble_smiley_blush:Yes thank goodness. I have a broken ribbon wire where the male 9volt terminal is mounted to the plastic sheet. and if things were wiggled just right current could flow. After a few emails with the help desk at Dimension Engineering. they wanted me to return the DE-SWADJ3 to them to test. Once i had the instrument cluster out of the truck and started to remove the DE-SWADJ3, I notice the wire was loose, and then of course broken. All of the ribbon wires have come loose from the plastic in this area, where the ICVR is mounted. I have just let it sit a couple of days until i figure out if I want to try and fix, get a new one or find one on crags list. Once I remove the DE-SWADJ3 from the instrument cluster, I wired it to the battery and was able to adjust the voltage right on the money. I think the adjustments should be made before the DE-SWADJ3 is installed would have made it a lot easier for me. Glad you figured out what the problem is. As for fixing it there are two options - repair or replace. You can repair what you have by soldering a small wire to bridge the gaps in the copper traces. But, if that doesn't work, then I have spare clusters with good printed circuits. There are three different circuits - idiot lights, gauges w/o tach, and gauges w/tach. So, do you have idiot lights or gauges? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdavidsmi Posted March 15, 2018 Author Share Posted March 15, 2018 Glad you figured out what the problem is. As for fixing it there are two options - repair or replace. You can repair what you have by soldering a small wire to bridge the gaps in the copper traces. But, if that doesn't work, then I have spare clusters with good printed circuits. There are three different circuits - idiot lights, gauges w/o tach, and gauges w/tach. So, do you have idiot lights or gauges? I have just returned from the find and pull, and found one from a 83 that's in good shape, they actually had the truck on the forklift to go to the crusher. Should I change the hold cluster or just the printed circuit? And how did you protect the printed circuit once it was not held in place by the ICVR? tape, hot glue? David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 15, 2018 Share Posted March 15, 2018 I have just returned from the find and pull, and found one from a 83 that's in good shape, they actually had the truck on the forklift to go to the crusher. Should I change the hold cluster or just the printed circuit? And how did you protect the printed circuit once it was not held in place by the ICVR? tape, hot glue? David I didn't think it needed support and just plugged the 9v connector in. But, hot melt would work nicely. And I think I'd swap the whole cluster. Pulling the gauges can be a problem as the studs sometimes rotate and break the wires inside the gauges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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