The replacing of a c6 with t19. More than just the swap

[IDIBronco]

Well the c6 in the bronco behind the 6.9 idi finally gave up the ghost. It has been reluctant to downshift into 1st and also sluggish more and more lately. I have resigned myself a long time ago to driving it until it died, as i was planning to swap to a manual.

I have also, as always, started collecting the parts to accomplish this a few years ago. My plans are always to get the parts at the right price and have them stored away waiting for the day they are needed.

This method has typically served me pretty well. I have 2 separate t19 transmissions to choose from already, an extra transfer case, the pedal set, clutch master and slave cylinders. I just ordered a new clutch last night and even sprang for the firewall reinforcing plate from the Bronco Graveyard.

While I am currently unable to jump into the project until those parts get shipped in I have been able to start some of the more boring work.

This morning I pulled the manual steering column out of one of my parts trucks (boring). I also have been planning to swap in a hydroboost brake unit and since everything has to come out to install the firewall reinforcement I may as well do this at the same time. So now the interesting stuff starts...

I researched the differences between a hydroboost pedal and the standard vacuum pedal. Looks like the pin was 3/4 of an inch higher. Sounded easy enough to me to work with so no need to hunt for a new pedal. Just modify the manual pedal I already have.

So out the pedal came and marked the location of the pin. It is pretty easy to just grind the pin welds off, press the pin out, drill a new hole, press the pin back in, weld the pin, and finally weld the old pin hole closed.

Now throw on some black undercoat and reinstall in the pedal box.

This was honestly about a 1 hour modification since I had the pedals already out. The drill bit i used was the next smaller size I could conveniently find. Since the pin was being preased in it was no big deal to go undersized. Just used the drill bit to work the hole a little bigger to make the hole tapered a little.

That is the end of the first update. I am headed back to pull more parts off the bronco. On a side note, while working on this I saw the pedal was stamped with a part number and said power on it. This got me thinking and I am sure there is an expert out there that can determine this. Was there a manual brake system available on the bullnose trucks/Broncos? If so did it use a pedal with a pin located in a different position? It would seem to me a manual brake system could use a pedal with a pin located more like the hydroboost system uses. I would be curious to see a manual brake pedal if there was one available to see the distance the pin is located away from the pivot.

[IDIBronco]

Steering columns out and mounting bracket swapped around.

So the steering column from the 1991 will 100% bolt in without issue, just have to swap out the mounting bracket. Pretty easy.

Additionally, I thought I would post a picture of my work around for the instrument cluster bezel being loose. It wasn't really an issue except it allowed a lot of the dash vent flow to escape and not be directed at me. I have the a/c working quite well now days so I needed the vents to function properly.

Since the dash and dash pad are really beyond effective at holding the bezel tight with screws, I used a lighter and some stainless lock wire to burn a couple holes through the bezel. Then I was able to thread the stainless wire through the holes and tie the wire behind the instrument cluster mounting screws. While I do admit it isn't as nice as a new part, I think it works quite nicely.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Steering columns out and mounting bracket swapped around.

So the steering column from the 1991 will 100% bolt in without issue, just have to swap out the mounting bracket. Pretty easy.

Additionally, I thought I would post a picture of my work around for the instrument cluster bezel being loose. It wasn't really an issue except it allowed a lot of the dash vent flow to escape and not be directed at me. I have the a/c working quite well now days so I needed the vents to function properly.

Since the dash and dash pad are really beyond effective at holding the bezel tight with screws, I used a lighter and some stainless lock wire to burn a couple holes through the bezel. Then I was able to thread the stainless wire through the holes and tie the wire behind the instrument cluster mounting screws. While I do admit it isn't as nice as a new part, I think it works quite nicely.

Wow! You are really on a roll! Well done.

As for the non-power brake pedal, I can get a part number that won't tell us anything about the height of the pin. The only way to find that out is to find someone who has one.

[IDIBronco]

Wow! You are really on a roll! Well done.

As for the non-power brake pedal, I can get a part number that won't tell us anything about the height of the pin. The only way to find that out is to find someone who has one.

It just so happens the transmission going out is exactly the motivation I have been needing to get moving on the modifications again.

Pedals are out of the bronco. Now I am starting to try and get all the parts in order to install the hydroboost.

I have a hydroboost unit out of an f-superduty, I already bought a replacement pressure hose for a saginaw 6.2 truck to run the line up to the hydroboost (I think that was the original application), I have the f-superduty line to the steering box, and the return is pretty simple. I am planning to try and plumb up something similar to Jonathan's (Ford F834) style he had an image posted of with a 4 port spin on filter head and cooler. I "think" I am going to run a 1991 1 1/8" master cylinder off of my parts f250 with the hydroboost unit so I do not have to run the plastic style brake reservoir. If I remember right I will need to replace the pressure valve on the frame rail right under the master cylinder due to running the f250 style master. I am not sure what brake lines I will need yet, but I am hoping to rob everything off the part truck. If it works out should be pretty simple.

I cannot start installing anything until my firewall reinforcment arrives.

I ordered it a couple of days ago now so I am hoping by friday. Once it gets here I can get the pedals, column, and brakes pretty well all back together. Then I plan to move onto removing the c6.

I am sure questions and problems will arise, but I am hoping for very few parts needing to be shipped in to reduce down time.

The next question is can I use the clutch master out of the 1991 truck? I think I will pop the hood on the 85 stick I have and compare it to the 91 parts truck. Hoping it will work, then all I will need is the clutch hose. I am thinking I may tow the bronco up to my buddy's house to use a 2 post lift to do the actual transmission swapping, but I am trying to get all the little details hammered out to make that a 1 afternoon project.

More updates to follow. (The more I post, the more I feel accountable to keep going...)

[IDIBronco]

It just so happens the transmission going out is exactly the motivation I have been needing to get moving on the modifications again.

Pedals are out of the bronco. Now I am starting to try and get all the parts in order to install the hydroboost.

I have a hydroboost unit out of an f-superduty, I already bought a replacement pressure hose for a saginaw 6.2 truck to run the line up to the hydroboost (I think that was the original application), I have the f-superduty line to the steering box, and the return is pretty simple. I am planning to try and plumb up something similar to Jonathan's (Ford F834) style he had an image posted of with a 4 port spin on filter head and cooler. I "think" I am going to run a 1991 1 1/8" master cylinder off of my parts f250 with the hydroboost unit so I do not have to run the plastic style brake reservoir. If I remember right I will need to replace the pressure valve on the frame rail right under the master cylinder due to running the f250 style master. I am not sure what brake lines I will need yet, but I am hoping to rob everything off the part truck. If it works out should be pretty simple.

I cannot start installing anything until my firewall reinforcment arrives.

I ordered it a couple of days ago now so I am hoping by friday. Once it gets here I can get the pedals, column, and brakes pretty well all back together. Then I plan to move onto removing the c6.

I am sure questions and problems will arise, but I am hoping for very few parts needing to be shipped in to reduce down time.

The next question is can I use the clutch master out of the 1991 truck? I think I will pop the hood on the 85 stick I have and compare it to the 91 parts truck. Hoping it will work, then all I will need is the clutch hose. I am thinking I may tow the bronco up to my buddy's house to use a 2 post lift to do the actual transmission swapping, but I am trying to get all the little details hammered out to make that a 1 afternoon project.

More updates to follow. (The more I post, the more I feel accountable to keep going...)

I also meant to mention that the manual brake pedal idea had me thinking because I would imagine the location of the pin vs pivot in a manual truck would be more like that of the hydroboost pedal. Giving the driver more force, but with less total travel. I had thought perhaps the hydroboost and manual pedals would have a similar enough geometry that a manual pedal could be used for a hydroboost install, but I imagine they are just as hard to come by as the hydroboost units. Regardless the modification required (2) 3/32" 7018 welding rods, and less than an hour. Not worth hunting for a different pedal for me. It was just a passing thought while I worked on that modification.

[salans7]

I also meant to mention that the manual brake pedal idea had me thinking because I would imagine the location of the pin vs pivot in a manual truck would be more like that of the hydroboost pedal. Giving the driver more force, but with less total travel. I had thought perhaps the hydroboost and manual pedals would have a similar enough geometry that a manual pedal could be used for a hydroboost install, but I imagine they are just as hard to come by as the hydroboost units. Regardless the modification required (2) 3/32" 7018 welding rods, and less than an hour. Not worth hunting for a different pedal for me. It was just a passing thought while I worked on that modification.

Get ready to beat on and manipulate that firewall brace, we all had to adjust them to fit as not every firewall is the exact same. I think I put an hour or two just into making the brace fit the firewall.

[IDIBronco]

Get ready to beat on and manipulate that firewall brace, we all had to adjust them to fit as not every firewall is the exact same. I think I put an hour or two just into making the brace fit the firewall.

Thanks for the insight. I am ok with creative adjustments. This is a factory auto bronco so I am hopeful it will not be too bad. Just looking forward to it getting here so I can start finishing items on the to do list instead of just taking crap apart.

[grumpin]

Thanks for the insight. I am ok with creative adjustments. This is a factory auto bronco so I am hopeful it will not be too bad. Just looking forward to it getting here so I can start finishing items on the to do list instead of just taking crap apart.

Nice job! Thanks for documenting it.

[Gary Lewis]

It just so happens the transmission going out is exactly the motivation I have been needing to get moving on the modifications again.

Pedals are out of the bronco. Now I am starting to try and get all the parts in order to install the hydroboost.

I have a hydroboost unit out of an f-superduty, I already bought a replacement pressure hose for a saginaw 6.2 truck to run the line up to the hydroboost (I think that was the original application), I have the f-superduty line to the steering box, and the return is pretty simple. I am planning to try and plumb up something similar to Jonathan's (Ford F834) style he had an image posted of with a 4 port spin on filter head and cooler. I "think" I am going to run a 1991 1 1/8" master cylinder off of my parts f250 with the hydroboost unit so I do not have to run the plastic style brake reservoir. If I remember right I will need to replace the pressure valve on the frame rail right under the master cylinder due to running the f250 style master. I am not sure what brake lines I will need yet, but I am hoping to rob everything off the part truck. If it works out should be pretty simple.

I cannot start installing anything until my firewall reinforcment arrives.

I ordered it a couple of days ago now so I am hoping by friday. Once it gets here I can get the pedals, column, and brakes pretty well all back together. Then I plan to move onto removing the c6.

I am sure questions and problems will arise, but I am hoping for very few parts needing to be shipped in to reduce down time.

The next question is can I use the clutch master out of the 1991 truck? I think I will pop the hood on the 85 stick I have and compare it to the 91 parts truck. Hoping it will work, then all I will need is the clutch hose. I am thinking I may tow the bronco up to my buddy's house to use a 2 post lift to do the actual transmission swapping, but I am trying to get all the little details hammered out to make that a 1 afternoon project.

More updates to follow. (The more I post, the more I feel accountable to keep going...)

Check the stud spacing on your F250 master vs the holes in your truck. In my case a 1990 F250 master wouldn't fit, but a 1995 F450 master did fit, perfectly.

As for the proportioning valve, I didn't have to change it out. But I did have to change out the lines down to it from the master. And that's where the 1990 F250's lines worked perfectly. The later masters have the front/rear swapped vs the Bullnose masters, and the lines from the 1990 F250 fit the master and fit the proportioning valve.

[IDIBronco]

Check the stud spacing on your F250 master vs the holes in your truck. In my case a 1990 F250 master wouldn't fit, but a 1995 F450 master did fit, perfectly.

As for the proportioning valve, I didn't have to change it out. But I did have to change out the lines down to it from the master. And that's where the 1990 F250's lines worked perfectly. The later masters have the front/rear swapped vs the Bullnose masters, and the lines from the 1990 F250 fit the master and fit the proportioning valve.

 

I am planning on running the newer F-superduty hydroboost booster, I will check the spacing of the masters to the boosters bolt patterns. I will use whatever master I can find that fits the booster. I am not scared of bending up a new brake line. I am hopeful the 1991 F250 master will bolt up to the about 1994 F-Superduty hydroboost booster and the 1991 F250 lines hook up to the stock propotioning valve. I do not recall why I thought the proportioning valve needed to be changed. Perhaps because I have a 10.25 rear axle already and the d44hd style knuckles modified and installed on the front d44 ttb. I think it might help make the brakes more even.

However, I need to research everything a bit more and especially the proportioning valve differences yet. Just seemed since I had f250 brakes I would need the f250 proportioning valve.