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Who can identify the sensor?


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Apparently, based on the catalog saying to use the switch for 1980 - 86 trucks, the TSB applied to the whole Bullnose era. I'd like to find the actual TSB and post it in that section.

Gary, the newer trucks, 1992-96/7 used the oil pressure "gauge" as simply an oil pressure indicator. On these you can do the same, jumper the resistor and use an older sender. You still end up with an arbitrary set of values unless you run some kind of aftermarket gauge. I, for one have an inherent distrust of digital gauges brought about by personal experience with Chrysler's infamous digital dash from the 80s. My oil pressure gauge would drop lower and lower the longer I drove. I hooked up a nice analog mechanical gauge and it never showed any drop. I measured the voltage on the sender wire, same thing it would show the same reading at a given rpm even after an hours drive. This told me it was somewhere in the integration circuit that considering Chrysler electronics is in Huntsville AL, was probably something NASA didn't want.

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Gary, the newer trucks, 1992-96/7 used the oil pressure "gauge" as simply an oil pressure indicator. On these you can do the same, jumper the resistor and use an older sender. You still end up with an arbitrary set of values unless you run some kind of aftermarket gauge. I, for one have an inherent distrust of digital gauges brought about by personal experience with Chrysler's infamous digital dash from the 80s. My oil pressure gauge would drop lower and lower the longer I drove. I hooked up a nice analog mechanical gauge and it never showed any drop. I measured the voltage on the sender wire, same thing it would show the same reading at a given rpm even after an hours drive. This told me it was somewhere in the integration circuit that considering Chrysler electronics is in Huntsville AL, was probably something NASA didn't want.

Bill - I'd read that somewhere Ford changed all of the oil pressure gauges to essentially idiot lights, but didn't know when.

On the digital gauge front, one of my goals is to install an Arduino to read a 2nd oil pressure and water temp sender and display that via a digital readout. In addition I want to also have a volt meter. If I can find the right display I'd like to put it in place of the clock in the three windows above the radio. That way I won't need the under-dash aftermarket gauges. And, I can set a limit for oil pressure, water temp, and voltage where an alarm will sound and the display will flash.

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Bill - I'd read that somewhere Ford changed all of the oil pressure gauges to essentially idiot lights, but didn't know when.

On the digital gauge front, one of my goals is to install an Arduino to read a 2nd oil pressure and water temp sender and display that via a digital readout. In addition I want to also have a volt meter. If I can find the right display I'd like to put it in place of the clock in the three windows above the radio. That way I won't need the under-dash aftermarket gauges. And, I can set a limit for oil pressure, water temp, and voltage where an alarm will sound and the display will flash.

Thanks to you, Gary, and all that responded to this thread! Never anticipated this would spawn much conversation. Pretty cool!

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Sometimes my fingers do the typing before my mind gets engaged. :nabble_anim_working:

I had a guy in Texas, (suggested by you Gary?) that converted one of my "extra" amp gauges to a actual volt meter gauge, 12 volts makes the needle sit a 12:00. 10v = 10:00, and 14v = 2:00

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I had a guy in Texas, (suggested by you Gary?) that converted one of my "extra" amp gauges to a actual volt meter gauge, 12 volts makes the needle sit a 12:00. 10v = 10:00, and 14v = 2:00

That's Rocketman. And I already have one converted by him, and will have to do another as that one is now going to go into Big Blue. But my preference would be to install the correct shunt to use the ammeter with a 3G swap and then have the digital voltmeter in addition.

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That's Rocketman. And I already have one converted by him, and will have to do another as that one is now going to go into Big Blue. But my preference would be to install the correct shunt to use the ammeter with a 3G swap and then have the digital voltmeter in addition.

Gary - I've been slinging Ford parts since bullnoses were new. I've been through all of the recalls and TSBs over the years.

The 6 psi switch and resistor that you mention were released for bricknose gauge systems, along with Thunderbird, Areostar, and Lincolns with digital clusters. Ford found problems and this was the easy fix. The sad part is that Ford seems to favor the "easy fixes", and this sender and resistor circuit was put into production on OBS trucks, Rangers, and others...

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Bill - I'd read that somewhere Ford changed all of the oil pressure gauges to essentially idiot lights, but didn't know when.

On the digital gauge front, one of my goals is to install an Arduino to read a 2nd oil pressure and water temp sender and display that via a digital readout. In addition I want to also have a volt meter. If I can find the right display I'd like to put it in place of the clock in the three windows above the radio. That way I won't need the under-dash aftermarket gauges. And, I can set a limit for oil pressure, water temp, and voltage where an alarm will sound and the display will flash.

This is likely not helpful, but I like the old school look. http://classicdash.com/product/ford-truck-1980-1986/

 

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So if we currently have a D4AZ-A(SW-1311) installed, and we swap to the E4ZZ-A(SW1547B) and we have a gauge, the gauge should actually start reading instead of being "steady state" all the time right?

Yes, except there will be a 20 ohm resistor between the switch and the wiring harness that has to be bypassed. The link a few posts back talks about how to do that if I remember.

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