71_badmach Posted June 19, 2020 Share Posted June 19, 2020 Good afternoon everyone. I'm a recent member to the forum, and have been perusing the excellent reference material for some time now. I have a question along the lines of alternator conversions. I'm doing a serpentine conversion on my 85 302 EFI truck, and the kit came with the GM one-wire alternator. I have read the 3G conversion page, and plan to do the one wire output with a new wire/fuse and hook to the battery or solenoid. I would think this alternator would follow the same rationale as the 3G since it is internally regulated. My question is, do you delete the original voltage regulator on the fender when you do this swap? Looking at the schematics/dwgs the area of my concern is C-610. It looks like I would cut the distributor lead B/O wire downstream of the Yellow wire and Y/LG splice and the O/LB lead is not used. Also, the LG/R and Y/W dot wires are then disconnected. Seems like this would be easier if the Y and Y/LG splice were on the other side of the connector, but there is a red wire in a piece of molded plastic that goes to the R/O wire on the other side. Not sure any of this is making sense in words . Bottom line, I suppose is as long as I put the alternator output on the battery connections, and disconnect the LG/R wire leaving the rest hooked to the solenoid through the fusible link, I should be OK? If there is already a forum topic on this please point me to it, I did search and didn't find anything specific to this. Thanks everyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 19, 2020 Share Posted June 19, 2020 I'm sorry, I got lost in your description. But, I believe the one-wire should install just like a 3G as shown on the diagram below, which is from the Ammeter & Voltmeter tab on the page at Documentation/Electrical/3G Alternator Conversion. However, that diagram doesn't show the needed fuse or fuse link which you can see in the 2nd diagram. The difference between the 3G and a "1 wire" is that the 3G has the Y/W sense wire and the LG/R bootstrap wire which the 1 wire doesn't - at least not externally. You can see those wires in the diagram on the Wiring It tab on that page: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted June 19, 2020 Share Posted June 19, 2020 If you use a normal GM alternator, they do use an idiot light to one of the two side pins. The fender mounted regulator is not needed with either a GM one wire or Ford 2 or 3G units as it is integral to the alternator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
71_badmach Posted June 19, 2020 Author Share Posted June 19, 2020 If you use a normal GM alternator, they do use an idiot light to one of the two side pins. The fender mounted regulator is not needed with either a GM one wire or Ford 2 or 3G units as it is integral to the alternator. OK, along the way I was thinking... get rid of the fender mounted voltage regulator. Thanks Gary as well for the schematics, I had seen them on the topic Upgrades page. I was trying to describe the existing harness splices and connectors and what I could eliminate, sorry for the rambling paragraph and wire colors. If the existing external voltage regulator goes away, I think I can do away with the C-610 altogether. Then, the DG and O wires (with fusible links on both and spliced to a piece of yellow wire in my harness) can be connected to the solenoid battery side. Granted, this will take the ammeter gauge out altogether, (lose R/O and Y/LG wires) but I plan to do some other sort of idiot light in the future. In looking at the wiring diagrams for the 1985 Electrical Systems, I just wanted to be sure I wasn't missing something else in the wiring path. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 19, 2020 Share Posted June 19, 2020 OK, along the way I was thinking... get rid of the fender mounted voltage regulator. Thanks Gary as well for the schematics, I had seen them on the topic Upgrades page. I was trying to describe the existing harness splices and connectors and what I could eliminate, sorry for the rambling paragraph and wire colors. If the existing external voltage regulator goes away, I think I can do away with the C-610 altogether. Then, the DG and O wires (with fusible links on both and spliced to a piece of yellow wire in my harness) can be connected to the solenoid battery side. Granted, this will take the ammeter gauge out altogether, (lose R/O and Y/LG wires) but I plan to do some other sort of idiot light in the future. In looking at the wiring diagrams for the 1985 Electrical Systems, I just wanted to be sure I wasn't missing something else in the wiring path. Looks like you have it figured out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
71_badmach Posted June 19, 2020 Author Share Posted June 19, 2020 Looks like you have it figured out. Gary, I hope so. I read your and Bill's profile information and feel like I should call y'all Mr. Gary and Mr. Bill. I'm 52 . I feel like I'm in good hands here on this website, and appreciate the inputs today. I was going to try and upload a picture of my voltage regulator and the harness beyond the C-610 connector that I'm deleting, but trying to go from the phone to the computer is proving difficult. I am also "upgrading" from the stock 85 EFI to Edelbrock's ProFlo 4 EFI setup. I hope to report good results eventually... still waiting on some parts and need to plumb fuel and figure some electrical connections yet. Thanks again for the input and information. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted June 20, 2020 Share Posted June 20, 2020 Gary, I hope so. I read your and Bill's profile information and feel like I should call y'all Mr. Gary and Mr. Bill. I'm 52 . I feel like I'm in good hands here on this website, and appreciate the inputs today. I was going to try and upload a picture of my voltage regulator and the harness beyond the C-610 connector that I'm deleting, but trying to go from the phone to the computer is proving difficult. I am also "upgrading" from the stock 85 EFI to Edelbrock's ProFlo 4 EFI setup. I hope to report good results eventually... still waiting on some parts and need to plumb fuel and figure some electrical connections yet. Thanks again for the input and information. Dave You can if you want, I have two kids older than you and one younger. I can't say that I blame you for wanting to improve on the 1985/86 EFI system, what I am running and Gary will be is Ford's best system for these older push rod engines, the EEC-V that was introduced initially with the 1994.5 Powerstroke and in 1995 on the Lincoln Continentals with the 4.6L DOHC V8. Sounds like you have put a lot of thought into what you want from your truck and how to arrive there, that is half the battle. As Gary can tell you, he is a bit more on planning things on paper, but he has a degree, where as I was told by my department manager at my retirement, that I was one of the two best non-degreed engineers he had ever met, and we both worked for him. I have always been very good at visualizing what I want, even to being able to visualize it in motion, then making it work. I will be interested in how it turns out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 20, 2020 Share Posted June 20, 2020 Gary, I hope so. I read your and Bill's profile information and feel like I should call y'all Mr. Gary and Mr. Bill. I'm 52 . I feel like I'm in good hands here on this website, and appreciate the inputs today. I was going to try and upload a picture of my voltage regulator and the harness beyond the C-610 connector that I'm deleting, but trying to go from the phone to the computer is proving difficult. I am also "upgrading" from the stock 85 EFI to Edelbrock's ProFlo 4 EFI setup. I hope to report good results eventually... still waiting on some parts and need to plumb fuel and figure some electrical connections yet. Thanks again for the input and information. Dave You can call Bill whatever you want, but no "Mister" for me, please. My usual response to that is "My father isn't here." But I just want to be one of the gang. Yes, as Bill said we are into upgrading the fuel system on our trucks. He's already there and I'm in the process of getting it going on a carb and then switching to EFI. So I, too, am interested in how it works for you. Please keep us up to speed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted June 20, 2020 Share Posted June 20, 2020 You can call Bill whatever you want, but no "Mister" for me, please. My usual response to that is "My father isn't here." But I just want to be one of the gang. Yes, as Bill said we are into upgrading the fuel system on our trucks. He's already there and I'm in the process of getting it going on a carb and then switching to EFI. So I, too, am interested in how it works for you. Please keep us up to speed. Mr. Bill was on Saturday Night Live! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted June 20, 2020 Share Posted June 20, 2020 I went with the one wire on my rebuild and love it. Physically it may be slightly different as it's marketed as a 'Ford Upgrade' but same difference. I would highly recommend the Rocketman gauge conversion. It is nice to know that the alt has kicked in. It has only happened once during tuning the motor but it didn't hit the rpm threshold and the alt didn't kick in till I gave it a bump. Something that will normally happen in daily use amyways. I would also consider getting a spare alt harness that you cut up. That way if ever needed, you can easily swap back. Here is the diagram of mine although the fuse portion changed somewhat as seen here: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/The-Camano-Experience-tp35327p48433.html Keep us updated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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