Neutral safety switch replacement?

[Sac79]

Anyone know where you can get a replacement for the manual transmission NSS? I'm content to just bypass it, but replacing or fixing it would be ideal.

Also, what's the best way to check the blower motor and resistor? The dome light dims when I turn the blower on, but that's all that happens.

And the horn doesn't work... I need to do more troubleshooting.

[Gary Lewis]

I'm still looking for the right part number for the switch. Haven't found it in the MPC.

As for the blower motor, are you saying it doesn't turn? That the lights just dim?

And on the horn, do you have cruise/speed control? I ask because that makes a big difference in the horn circuit, oddly enough.

[Sac79]

I'm still looking for the right part number for the switch. Haven't found it in the MPC.

As for the blower motor, are you saying it doesn't turn? That the lights just dim?

And on the horn, do you have cruise/speed control? I ask because that makes a big difference in the horn circuit, oddly enough.

It doesn't appear that anyone carries the switch for manual transmissions, as in the clutch pedal switch. Plenty available for varies automatic transmissions though. I was testing my harness yesterday and couldn't get the engine to turn over, traced it to the switch. As I said, I don't mind bypassing it, would just prefer to have it working. I'll check the salvage yards again, though I doubt I'll find a manual...

And no, the blower motor does not turn. But something happens, as there's obviously a power draw when I turn it on. I was considering replacing it anyway, so I'll probably just do that now, but I still need to confirm that the wiring is correct before I tidy it all away. It's pretty simple wiring and the original wiring as Painless only supplies power for AC/Heat, so I'm reasonable sure it's correct, but still...

No cruise with the horn. I have all the diagrams. Problem is Painless changes the way the horn works. Instead of two wires at the turn/steering connection, they only have one. The manual implies that activating the horn grounds the circuit and activates the horn. But I think the stock setup is the horn pad acts as a switch with the circuit grounded at the horn itself.

Wouldn't be the first error by Painless, my headlights would not work either. That was a lack of power at the switch. They claimed you could bypass the internal resistor by only using the feed to the parklights... Uh no.

[Gary Lewis]

It doesn't appear that anyone carries the switch for manual transmissions, as in the clutch pedal switch. Plenty available for varies automatic transmissions though. I was testing my harness yesterday and couldn't get the engine to turn over, traced it to the switch. As I said, I don't mind bypassing it, would just prefer to have it working. I'll check the salvage yards again, though I doubt I'll find a manual...

And no, the blower motor does not turn. But something happens, as there's obviously a power draw when I turn it on. I was considering replacing it anyway, so I'll probably just do that now, but I still need to confirm that the wiring is correct before I tidy it all away. It's pretty simple wiring and the original wiring as Painless only supplies power for AC/Heat, so I'm reasonable sure it's correct, but still...

No cruise with the horn. I have all the diagrams. Problem is Painless changes the way the horn works. Instead of two wires at the turn/steering connection, they only have one. The manual implies that activating the horn grounds the circuit and activates the horn. But I think the stock setup is the horn pad acts as a switch with the circuit grounded at the horn itself.

Wouldn't be the first error by Painless, my headlights would not work either. That was a lack of power at the switch. They claimed you could bypass the internal resistor by only using the feed to the parklights... Uh no.

Wait! You are looking for the switch on the clutch pedal? Those are available. David found one here, and although that listing has ended you can get the part number there.

As for the blower, it is pretty simple - the switch and resistors ground it. So the fact that the lights dim suggests it is getting power. It is easy to take out so I'd take it out and see if it spins.

And yes, the stock setup is that the horn is grounded and, w/o speed control, the horn pad on the steering wheel provides power. (With speed control it grounds the horn relay, which in turn provides power to the horn.)

 

[85lebaront2]

It doesn't appear that anyone carries the switch for manual transmissions, as in the clutch pedal switch. Plenty available for varies automatic transmissions though. I was testing my harness yesterday and couldn't get the engine to turn over, traced it to the switch. As I said, I don't mind bypassing it, would just prefer to have it working. I'll check the salvage yards again, though I doubt I'll find a manual...

And no, the blower motor does not turn. But something happens, as there's obviously a power draw when I turn it on. I was considering replacing it anyway, so I'll probably just do that now, but I still need to confirm that the wiring is correct before I tidy it all away. It's pretty simple wiring and the original wiring as Painless only supplies power for AC/Heat, so I'm reasonable sure it's correct, but still...

No cruise with the horn. I have all the diagrams. Problem is Painless changes the way the horn works. Instead of two wires at the turn/steering connection, they only have one. The manual implies that activating the horn grounds the circuit and activates the horn. But I think the stock setup is the horn pad acts as a switch with the circuit grounded at the horn itself.

Wouldn't be the first error by Painless, my headlights would not work either. That was a lack of power at the switch. They claimed you could bypass the internal resistor by only using the feed to the parklights... Uh no.

So you fell for "painless wiring". I helped a fellow with a 1956 Dodge pickup who used one of their kits. He made one mistake in starting to install it, he put the fuse box up on the inside of the firewall. Biggest issue I found is everything is geared towards GM systems so unless you have a Chevy a lot of the stuff won't work.

On the cruise control, Ford non-cruise equipt models used a hot wire and a horn wire. When Cruise was installed the hot wire became the wire from the horn relay coil and the horn feed became ground. This is why the cruise control has a short jumper between the column wiring and the dash harness. If you still have your original column and a cruise control steering wheel then you can make it work, Ford used the +12V from the horn relay coil and ground with a series of resistors to tell the cruise amplifier (control module) what to do. The resistor values did not change all the way through 1996/7 so any cruise wheel and column will operate any cruise system vacuum or electric (1993-97). Unfortunately, if you bought the painless GM column I think you are SOL as to making it work.

[Sac79]

So you fell for "painless wiring". I helped a fellow with a 1956 Dodge pickup who used one of their kits. He made one mistake in starting to install it, he put the fuse box up on the inside of the firewall. Biggest issue I found is everything is geared towards GM systems so unless you have a Chevy a lot of the stuff won't work.

On the cruise control, Ford non-cruise equipt models used a hot wire and a horn wire. When Cruise was installed the hot wire became the wire from the horn relay coil and the horn feed became ground. This is why the cruise control has a short jumper between the column wiring and the dash harness. If you still have your original column and a cruise control steering wheel then you can make it work, Ford used the +12V from the horn relay coil and ground with a series of resistors to tell the cruise amplifier (control module) what to do. The resistor values did not change all the way through 1996/7 so any cruise wheel and column will operate any cruise system vacuum or electric (1993-97). Unfortunately, if you bought the painless GM column I think you are SOL as to making it work.

Thanks Gary. Luckily I don't need that $70 part. It still works, the switch wasn't being activated as the clutch pedal did not have enough travel... And I also did not push it far enough when I tested it outside the truck. I noticed upon further inspection that the switch is adjustable, so all is good.

I'm getting a replacement blower motor. The resistor appears good, the voltage changes as I switch the power settings, but I'll probably get one of those as well.

The horn now works as well. I grounded the original power input to the horn switch, which in turn provides the ground for the Painless relay. Easy. And I just finished taping up the interior harness.

Bill, yes I fell for 'Painless' wiring, but to be honest it has been for the most part. Yes, it is definitely geared towards GM, but the kit is universal. You can get ones with Ford color coding and even plug and play harnesses(not for ours) from them too, I was just cheap and went with the universal one. It requires a lot of cutting and splicing, you need all your original connectors and some complete sections from the factory harness. But the installation manual is very good and easy to follow, so I think the name is not completely unwarranted.

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks Gary. Luckily I don't need that $70 part. It still works, the switch wasn't being activated as the clutch pedal did not have enough travel... And I also did not push it far enough when I tested it outside the truck. I noticed upon further inspection that the switch is adjustable, so all is good.

I'm getting a replacement blower motor. The resistor appears good, the voltage changes as I switch the power settings, but I'll probably get one of those as well.

The horn now works as well. I grounded the original power input to the horn switch, which in turn provides the ground for the Painless relay. Easy. And I just finished taping up the interior harness.

Bill, yes I fell for 'Painless' wiring, but to be honest it has been for the most part. Yes, it is definitely geared towards GM, but the kit is universal. You can get ones with Ford color coding and even plug and play harnesses(not for ours) from them too, I was just cheap and went with the universal one. It requires a lot of cutting and splicing, you need all your original connectors and some complete sections from the factory harness. But the installation manual is very good and easy to follow, so I think the name is not completely unwarranted.

Glad you got it sorted, Rob.

[85lebaront2]

Thanks Gary. Luckily I don't need that $70 part. It still works, the switch wasn't being activated as the clutch pedal did not have enough travel... And I also did not push it far enough when I tested it outside the truck. I noticed upon further inspection that the switch is adjustable, so all is good.

I'm getting a replacement blower motor. The resistor appears good, the voltage changes as I switch the power settings, but I'll probably get one of those as well.

The horn now works as well. I grounded the original power input to the horn switch, which in turn provides the ground for the Painless relay. Easy. And I just finished taping up the interior harness.

Bill, yes I fell for 'Painless' wiring, but to be honest it has been for the most part. Yes, it is definitely geared towards GM, but the kit is universal. You can get ones with Ford color coding and even plug and play harnesses(not for ours) from them too, I was just cheap and went with the universal one. It requires a lot of cutting and splicing, you need all your original connectors and some complete sections from the factory harness. But the installation manual is very good and easy to follow, so I think the name is not completely unwarranted.

Glad it is working out for you. I did a complete rewire on my 1986 F350 when I converted to MAF/SEFI and E4OD, I used a 1996 crew cab as a donor vehicle for the dash and underhood as well as part of the interior. I also got the rear doors from it as I wanted 4dr power windows and locks. I was able to install the later dash and steering column which gives me the later ignition switch and combination switch (wipers, headlight dimmer and turn signals and hazard flasher) It is a tilt column and I have the correct shift indicator for the E4OD and the OD cancel switch. HVAC was updated to 1994-1996/7 R134a system.