Starliner Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 The old coil had a condensor which attached to the bracket and came off the hot side of the coil, (so there were 2 red wires coming off of the coil pick up. The new one just had the 2 wires, red and green, (no condenser wire), so I just left it disconnected. My understanding was that the condenser was just a noise suppressor for the radio so I just left it disconnected. But MAN, this coil gets hot. And given time it cuts out. Luckily I have a spark box and hooked it up and was able to drive away. Than God I kept this handy tool, never thought I would use it again. Anyway, any guesses as to why she is getting so hot. Here is a picture of the OLD coil and pick up. You can see a grey plug which went to the condenser. Sorry for the bad shot, best I had. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 The condensor isn't the problem. And it is indeed a noise suppressor, so isn't needed. I can think of two reasons the coil would get hot. First, the wrong coil. Where did you get it? What brand is it? And why did you replace the old one? Second, if you've bypassed the ballast resistor. Have you changed any of the wiring to the ignition? Are you still running the original ignition module with a blue grommet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starliner Posted May 6, 2020 Author Share Posted May 6, 2020 Today my plan is to sand down everything from the battery, solenoid, starter, all grounds. Check voltage at the coil, (or course), but after that I will just have fingers crossed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 Today my plan is to sand down everything from the battery, solenoid, starter, all grounds. Check voltage at the coil, (or course), but after that I will just have fingers crossed. Did you not see my reply with several questions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starliner Posted May 6, 2020 Author Share Posted May 6, 2020 Today my plan is to sand down everything from the battery, solenoid, starter, all grounds. Check voltage at the coil, (or course), but after that I will just have fingers crossed. Gary, because it had been baking for 10 years, and since I was having fuel and ignition issues, I figured anything with plastic or resin was going to fail eventually so I replaced a lot. Coil, rock auto, not sure but maybe Standard. I will have to get back to you on that. ICM, changed but kept the old one because the swap didnt help. Cap, rotor, plugs, wires, battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starliner Posted May 6, 2020 Author Share Posted May 6, 2020 Gary, because it had been baking for 10 years, and since I was having fuel and ignition issues, I figured anything with plastic or resin was going to fail eventually so I replaced a lot. Coil, rock auto, not sure but maybe Standard. I will have to get back to you on that. ICM, changed but kept the old one because the swap didnt help. Cap, rotor, plugs, wires, battery. I also changed the ignition switch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 Gary, because it had been baking for 10 years, and since I was having fuel and ignition issues, I figured anything with plastic or resin was going to fail eventually so I replaced a lot. Coil, rock auto, not sure but maybe Standard. I will have to get back to you on that. ICM, changed but kept the old one because the swap didnt help. Cap, rotor, plugs, wires, battery. I'd put the original coil back and see if it gets hot. If not, it is the new coil that is the problem. And if the coil is getting that hot the ignition module is very likely to fail as it is carrying way too much current. So you may have fried it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starliner Posted May 6, 2020 Author Share Posted May 6, 2020 I'd put the original coil back and see if it gets hot. If not, it is the new coil that is the problem. And if the coil is getting that hot the ignition module is very likely to fail as it is carrying way too much current. So you may have fried it. Amazing, my buddy just made the same suggestion. I hope it's not in the garbage and gone. If it is gone I might just swap out another one to be safe. I consider it a 20 dollar troubleshooting measure. Btw, I see no resistor in my system. The replacement coil was a cheap one made by WVE (rock). Mine is over 8500 lbs so it specified that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 Amazing, my buddy just made the same suggestion. I hope it's not in the garbage and gone. If it is gone I might just swap out another one to be safe. I consider it a 20 dollar troubleshooting measure. Btw, I see no resistor in my system. The replacement coil was a cheap one made by WVE (rock). Mine is over 8500 lbs so it specified that. The resistance wire/ballast is in the harness and you won't see it. But it is there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starliner Posted May 6, 2020 Author Share Posted May 6, 2020 The resistance wire/ballast is in the harness and you won't see it. But it is there. When the truck is running I'm getting 14.3 volts from the red wire going to the coil, (about what it is also putting into the battery). Key on, not running I see 12.7 volts. Does that sound normal? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts