Newusr Posted April 19, 2020 Share Posted April 19, 2020 Hey guys! Just checking in, from Central Illinois and I got a 1986 F150. Project truck I traded a non running Dodge Caliber for. So far I had been doing things with this off an on during the cold winter. Now I'm ready to hopefully finish up with the truck with spring and summer coming. I'm not a mechanic and I'm still learning every time I do something on a different vehicle. Pretty much just been working on my own vehicles for a little over 10 years. 4.9 I6, C6, RWD So far.....please give me points of view or suggestions! *Converted to Duraspark II -Timing is off, pops and backfires? Carb adjust? I just realized today by reading, maybe I was supposed to aim the timing light from passenger side? *Replaced Carb with single barrel eBay carb *Replaced tie rods/ends and ball joints -still need alignment - Still need the radius arm bushing, steering travels a lot when I just test drove down the street. Feels dangerous *Pitman arm *replaced old steering gearbox with used *Rewired brakes🙁 -Turn signals still don't work, unless you manually operate the lever. Someone before me had wired a switch mounted below the dash to turn the brake lights on and off. Let's just say, they didn't know how to run wire. And the trailer kit had corroded most of the wires at the rear. And random spots of wires were corroded. Replaced with wire lengths and blade connectors. I'm going to heat shrink when I'm actually driving the ol beast. Pictures https://ibb.co/h8hBSs2 https://ibb.co/DGmNSkH https://ibb.co/QQkpkLZ WHO HAS TORQUE SPECS FOR THE FRONT END OF THIS TRUCK? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted April 19, 2020 Share Posted April 19, 2020 There are multiple sets of timing marks. The one directly around the crank (sheet metal plate) is the one you want. The ones cast into the timing cover are not. If the sheet metal one is missing, then you'll want to get a replacement. No matter what you need to back the timing off ASAP... getting this wrong is likely what bombed my 300 ; the PO had the timing overadvanced like that and as a result, 5 of 6 upper compression rings snapped and bores trashed. Otherwise, I don't know, as my 300 is still the stock ignition/carb setup. At least on the stock TFI base time is 10 degrees BTDC. At idle, when advance is active (in my case, the electronic advance), the timing was around 30 BTDC, but that was with a badly messed up motor and a highish idle. Front suspension info: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/front-suspension.html Look under the instructions tab. That includes all the torque specs you should need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 19, 2020 Share Posted April 19, 2020 Welcome to the forum. However, you were specifically asked to "Please go to the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and then start a new thread/topic in that folder about yourself and your truck." And until you do that you are not supposed to be posting in the main section. Why? Because our guidelines are on the New Members Start Here page. We cannot force you to read them, but by getting you to post in that folder we hope you will. Why is that important? Because people have been banned for not following the guidelines and we would not want that to happen to you. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newusr Posted April 19, 2020 Author Share Posted April 19, 2020 Welcome to the forum. However, you were specifically asked to "Please go to the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and then start a new thread/topic in that folder about yourself and your truck." And until you do that you are not supposed to be posting in the main section. Why? Because our guidelines are on the New Members Start Here page. We cannot force you to read them, but by getting you to post in that folder we hope you will. Why is that important? Because people have been banned for not following the guidelines and we would not want that to happen to you. Gary Sorry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 20, 2020 Share Posted April 20, 2020 No problem, assuming you've read the guidelines. Ratdude gave you some good suggestions, but on the turn signals it appears the turn signal switch is broken. And it is crucial to the operation of the whole lighting system since almost everything runs through it. So if it is bad you may not have brake light, much less turn signals. Here's a page on that from Ford's 1986 Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM), which is available here: Documentation/Electrical/EVTM/1986 EVTM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newusr Posted April 20, 2020 Author Share Posted April 20, 2020 No problem, assuming you've read the guidelines. Ratdude gave you some good suggestions, but on the turn signals it appears the turn signal switch is broken. And it is crucial to the operation of the whole lighting system since almost everything runs through it. So if it is bad you may not have brake light, much less turn signals. Here's a page on that from Ford's 1986 Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM), which is available here: Documentation/Electrical/EVTM/1986 EVTM. I couldn't find that diagram for the life of me. It really clears some things up with the lights! Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 20, 2020 Share Posted April 20, 2020 I couldn't find that diagram for the life of me. It really clears some things up with the lights! Thanks Most of the documentation is on this site. So if you can't find it just ask. I think it is laid out logically, but sometimes even I have a hard time finding it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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