kramttocs Posted April 18, 2020 Posted April 18, 2020 These two, hereby called yellow and green: Right now they are unplugged but want to hook them up as I think they should be (?). From a hazy memory they were hooked up to a manifold vacuum tree near the front but that was also when it was fully smogged so vacuum lines galore. I don't have a tree in the front right now and am trying to have as few capped off ports as possible. Thus, can I use either or both of these carb ports for these? Side being ported and bottom full since the ported on the bottom is hooked to the vac adv. Speaking of - that's correct for the vac adv to be hooked to ported, right? Don't think I asked Scott about that.
FuzzFace2 Posted April 18, 2020 Posted April 18, 2020 Thus, can I use either or both of these carb ports for these? This port should go to the dist. vacuum advance can if you have one. If not what are you running for a dist.? http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n57272/IMG_20200418_175236.jpg You could use this port if it has manifold vacuum or any port on themanifold that has vacuum all the time. http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n57272/IMG_20200418_175259.jpg Side being ported and bottom full since the ported on the bottom is hooked to the vac adv. Speaking of - that's correct for the vac adv to be hooked to ported, right? Don't think I asked Scott about that. See my replies by the pictures. Oh I should also asy if you don't have the snorkel hooked up to hot air off the exh. manifold and / or cool fresh air thru the radiator support I don't see the need to hook up this temp switch. Dave ----
85lebaront2 Posted April 19, 2020 Posted April 19, 2020 Damn, it's been a long time since I sent Jim (ardwrkntrk) my old air filter. The green delay valve needs manifold vacuum as it's function is to hold the auxiliary air door closed until the vacuum drops. The other line on Darth's went to the top of the air filter to a thermal control valve then to the inlet snorkel vacuum motor. It's function was to heat the incoming air until everything warmed up to allow a leaner mixture for emissions to be used. That one I believe went to the vacuum tree in front o the carb.
kramttocs Posted April 19, 2020 Author Posted April 19, 2020 Damn, it's been a long time since I sent Jim (ardwrkntrk) my old air filter. The green delay valve needs manifold vacuum as it's function is to hold the auxiliary air door closed until the vacuum drops. The other line on Darth's went to the top of the air filter to a thermal control valve then to the inlet snorkel vacuum motor. It's function was to heat the incoming air until everything warmed up to allow a leaner mixture for emissions to be used. That one I believe went to the vacuum tree in front o the carb. Dave/Bill - appreciate the info. I should better explain the carb since as Bill said in another thread - it's a universal one so a few changes from factory. It has 3 vacuum ports not counting the large one in the back. 1 full manifold - located at the front base (see capped port in the second carb photo above) 2 timed-spark/ported - located on the side (capped currently) as well as at the front base. The timed port at the base is currently hooked to the vac advance. First off I need to confirm that this is correct. My understanding is that with the emissions hook up it is but not sure about a non-emissions motor. Scott has all my specs when he recurved a distributor so might be worth me giving him a call on Monday. I do have the fresh air snorkel going to the core support and the heat tube hooked up to the one of the tubes on the header. So same-ish as stock in that regard. So green will get the full manifold. Check. Yellow. Even though I have the heat tube hooked up, since I don't have the emissions getup will I benefit from hooking that one up to full manifold?
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 19, 2020 Posted April 19, 2020 Dave/Bill - appreciate the info. I should better explain the carb since as Bill said in another thread - it's a universal one so a few changes from factory. It has 3 vacuum ports not counting the large one in the back. 1 full manifold - located at the front base (see capped port in the second carb photo above) 2 timed-spark/ported - located on the side (capped currently) as well as at the front base. The timed port at the base is currently hooked to the vac advance. First off I need to confirm that this is correct. My understanding is that with the emissions hook up it is but not sure about a non-emissions motor. Scott has all my specs when he recurved a distributor so might be worth me giving him a call on Monday. I do have the fresh air snorkel going to the core support and the heat tube hooked up to the one of the tubes on the header. So same-ish as stock in that regard. So green will get the full manifold. Check. Yellow. Even though I have the heat tube hooked up, since I don't have the emissions getup will I benefit from hooking that one up to full manifold? Both go to manifold vacuum. Green allows the air door to open under WOT acceleration (low vacuum) Yellow is the thermal valve that controls the flap in the snorkel, and tries to keep inlet air at ~105*F IIRC.
Rembrant Posted April 19, 2020 Posted April 19, 2020 Dave/Bill - appreciate the info. I should better explain the carb since as Bill said in another thread - it's a universal one so a few changes from factory. It has 3 vacuum ports not counting the large one in the back. 1 full manifold - located at the front base (see capped port in the second carb photo above) 2 timed-spark/ported - located on the side (capped currently) as well as at the front base. The timed port at the base is currently hooked to the vac advance. First off I need to confirm that this is correct. My understanding is that with the emissions hook up it is but not sure about a non-emissions motor. Scott has all my specs when he recurved a distributor so might be worth me giving him a call on Monday. I do have the fresh air snorkel going to the core support and the heat tube hooked up to the one of the tubes on the header. So same-ish as stock in that regard. So green will get the full manifold. Check. Yellow. Even though I have the heat tube hooked up, since I don't have the emissions getup will I benefit from hooking that one up to full manifold? Scott, I don't have a 460, but I have a complete de-smogged 302 with a Holley 4160 (with all the same vacuum ports as yours). The upper barb (above the mixture screw next to the sight glass) is the timed spark vacuum source for the distributor. The barb at the base is full vacuum. I have this one routed to the air cleaner. It is routed to the thermo valve first, and then to the green (CWM?), and then to the dual snorkel air motor/valves. I removed everything else.
Gary Lewis Posted April 19, 2020 Posted April 19, 2020 Even though I have the heat tube hooked up, since I don't have the emissions getup will I benefit from hooking that one up to full manifold? Yes, you will. It will help with the choke in winter, and it will help prevent carb icing in damp, cold weather. On the choke, electric units aren't the most accurate to track engine and weather conditions. In my experience they can be finicky - a little more choke to help cold weather can mean too much for warmer weather. But the heated air helps lessen the problem by allowing the choke to come off a little earlier.
FuzzFace2 Posted April 19, 2020 Posted April 19, 2020 Scott, I don't have a 460, but I have a complete de-smogged 302 with a Holley 4160 (with all the same vacuum ports as yours). The upper barb (above the mixture screw next to the sight glass) is the timed spark vacuum source for the distributor. The barb at the base is full vacuum. I have this one routed to the air cleaner. It is routed to the thermo valve first, and then to the green (CWM?), and then to the dual snorkel air motor/valves. I removed everything else. Scott, recheck that base vacuum you say is timed / ported vacuum as I have never seen any base ports be timed / ported on the one up by the float sight hole. The way Cory has his is how I have mine even if it is a 300 six as that system works the same way on any size motor. FYI I don't have the heat hose to the EXH. manifold because I am running EFI manifolds and no way to really get heat from them. In my case it does not get that cold here and if it is pulling a little warm air then good other wise I don't worry about it. Dave ----
kramttocs Posted April 19, 2020 Author Posted April 19, 2020 Scott, I don't have a 460, but I have a complete de-smogged 302 with a Holley 4160 (with all the same vacuum ports as yours). The upper barb (above the mixture screw next to the sight glass) is the timed spark vacuum source for the distributor. The barb at the base is full vacuum. I have this one routed to the air cleaner. It is routed to the thermo valve first, and then to the green (CWM?), and then to the dual snorkel air motor/valves. I removed everything else. Scott, recheck that base vacuum you say is timed / ported vacuum as I have never seen any base ports be timed / ported on the one up by the float sight hole. The way Cory has his is how I have mine even if it is a 300 six as that system works the same way on any size motor. FYI I don't have the heat hose to the EXH. manifold because I am running EFI manifolds and no way to really get heat from them. In my case it does not get that cold here and if it is pulling a little warm air then good other wise I don't worry about it. Dave ---- Thanks guys. I'll pickup a Tee and use the full vacuum port at the base of the carb to feed both. Dave - this is from the manual. Not sure if there is a good reason to use one over the other - I just chose the bottom one to keep the line out of the way.
FuzzFace2 Posted April 19, 2020 Posted April 19, 2020 Thanks guys. I'll pickup a Tee and use the full vacuum port at the base of the carb to feed both. Dave - this is from the manual. Not sure if there is a good reason to use one over the other - I just chose the bottom one to keep the line out of the way. Must be a new Holley thing as I have never seen that on a Holley carb before only the one on the side. Dave ----
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