How do I remove fuse block insert?

[salans7]

Thanks everyone for the info. I'm not sure about whether I need to see the back of the fuse block, but I think myrl883 gets the issue I'm having. The screenshots that you guys sent earlier don't really make sense to me (but that may be because I'm not very familiar with the components). Let me walk through the issue again a little more clearly and hopefully that will make it easy for all:

My truck was built without power doors, so I bought all of the innards of two full power doors and the behind dash jumper wiring that connects the doors to each other and the fuse block. Further, I'm using the below diagram for reference:

In the back of the fuse block, I plugged in the green connector of the window jumper wiring into slot C1692. Based on the chart, vehicles equipped with power windows and door locks have a 30 amp circuit breaker in slot 12 and a 20 amp circuit breaker in slot 14. My truck, with manual doors has a 25 amp fuse in each of these locations. since the fuses are small than the CBs, it looks like my truck has two tiny inserts in these slots to reduce the size of the slot. In the picture below, I have circled the two slots. Slot 14 still has the 25 amp fuse and the reducer in it, and slot 12 has the fuse removed and just shows the slot with the reducer still in it:

Also, here is a close up of the empty reducer in slot 12:

So, my initial question is, how do I remove the inserts in slots 12 and 14 so that they will fit circuit breakers?

Since I've got y'alls attention, I'd like to ask an even more technical question as a follow-up: Does the power door jumper wiring that runs behind the dash plug directly into C1962? I would have thought that it somehow ties into the tailgate window switch, but I don't see how that's possible.

After comparing your pictures to my burnt out fuse box, I see what you're referring to. But I've never looked closely at a fuse box from a power option truck, so I can't tell how those are removed, and my fuse box doesn't really give me any clues either. I would imagine there are tabs that hold them in, but you would probably have to access them from the back of the fuse box.

 

[kramttocs]

The trucks and broncos are slightly different in this regard due to the rear window. Here is the clip removed in case seeing the tabs helps:

 

You'll need to unscrew the block and rotate it to get at the tabs. The reducers like this come in from the front so have to be unclipped from behind whereas the new connectors snap in from the back. IIRC.

---Update. I looked again and I don't believe you have to come in from the back. Use a pick or small screwdriver to push one of the tabs down from inside one of the small square openings on either end of the reducer. At the same time with some needle nose pliers pull that end of the reducer out enough to free it from the latch. Remove the screwdriver and do the same for the other latch making sure the first side doesn't lock back in

You could also use two screw drivers if you can pry them in enough to stay by themselves or grow a third hand.

[kramttocs]

You'll need to unscrew the block and rotate it to get at the tabs. The reducers like this come in from the front so have to be unclipped from behind whereas the new connectors snap in from the back. IIRC.

---Update. I looked again and I don't believe you have to come in from the back. Use a pick or small screwdriver to push one of the tabs down from inside one of the small square openings on either end of the reducer. At the same time with some needle nose pliers pull that end of the reducer out enough to free it from the latch. Remove the screwdriver and do the same for the other latch making sure the first side doesn't lock back in

You could also use two screw drivers if you can pry them in enough to stay by themselves or grow a third hand.

Here is the pick pushing down on the ledge to release it.

[Gary Lewis]

Here is the pick pushing down on the ledge to release it.

I may have a fuse block set up for power windows and locks. And I know I have one w/o. So, if need be I can check out the other fuse block. Let me know if it is needed.

[Littlebeefy]

Here is the pick pushing down on the ledge to release it.

Thank you kramttocs. Pictures were very helpful, and clear directions make it foolproof. Growing a third arm might be the best advice anyone has ever given me. I'm going to get to work on that right away (I know exactly where I'm going to put it).

I'm going to post my follow up question about the wiring that goes behind the dash on a new thread to keep things organized. I'll add the link here for that post, too.

Thanks everyone.

[Littlebeefy]

Thank you kramttocs. Pictures were very helpful, and clear directions make it foolproof. Growing a third arm might be the best advice anyone has ever given me. I'm going to get to work on that right away (I know exactly where I'm going to put it).

I'm going to post my follow up question about the wiring that goes behind the dash on a new thread to keep things organized. I'll add the link here for that post, too.

Thanks everyone.

This is the follow up post discussing wiring in the power doors to the tailgate.

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Conversion-to-power-doors-Wiring-question-tp56674.html

Appreciate your help.

[kramttocs]

Thank you kramttocs. Pictures were very helpful, and clear directions make it foolproof. Growing a third arm might be the best advice anyone has ever given me. I'm going to get to work on that right away (I know exactly where I'm going to put it).

I'm going to post my follow up question about the wiring that goes behind the dash on a new thread to keep things organized. I'll add the link here for that post, too.

Thanks everyone.

Great! Working on these trucks there are times when 5 or 6 arms aren't enough