Dad's Truck Build

[Gary Lewis]

I would grind that tab off, snug down the body mounts and see how close it is after that. Put a little dimple in the floor maybe, if you have to.

Ray - That's basically the game plan I came to a few minutes ago. Then I got an email from David suggesting the same plan.

So, here's where I am, but I'll update after a bit.

[Gary Lewis]

Ray - That's basically the game plan I came to a few minutes ago. Then I got an email from David suggesting the same plan.

So, here's where I am, but I'll update after a bit.

Now to go try it:

[Gary Lewis]

Now to go try it:

Ok, we are now up to maybe 1/32" clearance, but I don't have the bottom nuts on the cab mounts, much less tightened down. But, with poly they won't squish much. However, more clearance is needed or there will be thumps and bumps.

So, I'm looking into what can be done with the tranny's mount.

But, I could put 1/4" spacers on everything. Would that be enough, or does it require 1/2"?

Another option would be a spacer on the rear cab mounts and not the fronts. That will then require two different spacers on the bed.

Thoughts?

[1986F150Six]

Ok, we are now up to maybe 1/32" clearance, but I don't have the bottom nuts on the cab mounts, much less tightened down. But, with poly they won't squish much. However, more clearance is needed or there will be thumps and bumps.

So, I'm looking into what can be done with the tranny's mount.

But, I could put 1/4" spacers on everything. Would that be enough, or does it require 1/2"?

Another option would be a spacer on the rear cab mounts and not the fronts. That will then require two different spacers on the bed.

Thoughts?

Could the head of the bolt be turned to a smaller diameter and the housing trimmed?

[Gary Lewis]

Could the head of the bolt be turned to a smaller diameter and the housing trimmed?

David - Yes, it probably could, but the head of the bolt is already smaller the the boss it is going into. So trimming the boss would be the first move in that area. However, I don't know how much can be taken off and still have adequate strength, so I'm reluctant to do that.

Having said that, I did get some clearance today. After cutting off the tab I re-installed the 1356 and lowered the cab and had maybe 1/32" of clearance, as shown on the left. Then I cut 3/8" plywood spacers and installed them, just for testing purposes, and got the 3/8"+ shown on the right.

After that I torqued three of the four mounts down to 30 lb-ft, but ran out of time to get the fourth, the right front. Anyway, with those three down to 30, when the specs call for 40 - 50, I still have 1/4" of clearance. But, by the time I get them to 40 lb-ft I'll bet I'm down to 1/8". So I'm not sure that 3/8" is enough spacer.

How much of an issue with the bumpers will 1/2" of lift be?

[Steve83]

David - Yes, it probably could, but the head of the bolt is already smaller the the boss it is going into. So trimming the boss would be the first move in that area. However, I don't know how much can be taken off and still have adequate strength, so I'm reluctant to do that.

Having said that, I did get some clearance today. After cutting off the tab I re-installed the 1356 and lowered the cab and had maybe 1/32" of clearance, as shown on the left. Then I cut 3/8" plywood spacers and installed them, just for testing purposes, and got the 3/8"+ shown on the right.

After that I torqued three of the four mounts down to 30 lb-ft, but ran out of time to get the fourth, the right front. Anyway, with those three down to 30, when the specs call for 40 - 50, I still have 1/4" of clearance. But, by the time I get them to 40 lb-ft I'll bet I'm down to 1/8". So I'm not sure that 3/8" is enough spacer.

How much of an issue with the bumpers will 1/2" of lift be?

I certainly wouldn't attempt to "tilt" the body in relation to the frame; keep all the lift pucks the same thickness. The bumpers should have 1/2" of adjustment from the factory, but I don't think anyone including you will notice if they're 1/2" lower (relative to the body) than original. I think 1/4" is plenty with poly mounts, but it won't hurt to drive a few miles on wood pucks until you choose the thickness you want, and buy/make permanent ones.

[Ford F834]

David - Yes, it probably could, but the head of the bolt is already smaller the the boss it is going into. So trimming the boss would be the first move in that area. However, I don't know how much can be taken off and still have adequate strength, so I'm reluctant to do that.

Having said that, I did get some clearance today. After cutting off the tab I re-installed the 1356 and lowered the cab and had maybe 1/32" of clearance, as shown on the left. Then I cut 3/8" plywood spacers and installed them, just for testing purposes, and got the 3/8"+ shown on the right.

After that I torqued three of the four mounts down to 30 lb-ft, but ran out of time to get the fourth, the right front. Anyway, with those three down to 30, when the specs call for 40 - 50, I still have 1/4" of clearance. But, by the time I get them to 40 lb-ft I'll bet I'm down to 1/8". So I'm not sure that 3/8" is enough spacer.

How much of an issue with the bumpers will 1/2" of lift be?

Gary, there is quite a bit of adjustment in the front bumper’s slotted mounting holes. I needed to raise mine to accommodate the home-made front hitch that I found in the junkyard. When I went all the way to the top of the slots, it tilted the bumper out at the bottom. I didn’t end up needing all of that clearance, but I could have spaced the bumper out at the top if I needed to. I did not leave it like this, I just had it at maximum travel while I mounted the cross member/receiver piece:

Edit: by chance have you checked the tunnel cover clearance over the E4OD? Would shims give you enough clearance to use the Bullnose tunnel cover?

[Ray Cecil]

David - Yes, it probably could, but the head of the bolt is already smaller the the boss it is going into. So trimming the boss would be the first move in that area. However, I don't know how much can be taken off and still have adequate strength, so I'm reluctant to do that.

Having said that, I did get some clearance today. After cutting off the tab I re-installed the 1356 and lowered the cab and had maybe 1/32" of clearance, as shown on the left. Then I cut 3/8" plywood spacers and installed them, just for testing purposes, and got the 3/8"+ shown on the right.

After that I torqued three of the four mounts down to 30 lb-ft, but ran out of time to get the fourth, the right front. Anyway, with those three down to 30, when the specs call for 40 - 50, I still have 1/4" of clearance. But, by the time I get them to 40 lb-ft I'll bet I'm down to 1/8". So I'm not sure that 3/8" is enough spacer.

How much of an issue with the bumpers will 1/2" of lift be?

Gary...you are over thinking, over engineering. The solution is a minimal spacer on the body mounts, and a BFH on the floorboard. No one will care if you "clearance" the floor pan with a hammer.

Just take some time and make your clearance dimple as straight and clean as possible. I suggest start the dimple by striking a small diameter rod. The work your way slowly to larger and larger diameter rods until you get the clearance you need. Maybe turn down the ends of your striking rods to be spherical so you dont get sharp edges cutting the steel instead of shaping it.

Perhaps you have multiple ball peen hammers. Trying holding the peening/round side to the floorboard, then strike the flat side with another, larger hammer.

[Gary Lewis]

Gary...you are over thinking, over engineering. The solution is a minimal spacer on the body mounts, and a BFH on the floorboard. No one will care if you "clearance" the floor pan with a hammer.

Just take some time and make your clearance dimple as straight and clean as possible. I suggest start the dimple by striking a small diameter rod. The work your way slowly to larger and larger diameter rods until you get the clearance you need. Maybe turn down the ends of your striking rods to be spherical so you dont get sharp edges cutting the steel instead of shaping it.

Perhaps you have multiple ball peen hammers. Trying holding the peening/round side to the floorboard, then strike the flat side with another, larger hammer.

Ok guys, thanks. I think the plan is shaping up. I won't get to it today as we have other things going on, and maybe not tomorrow, but I'll tighten the bolts down to 40 lb-ft and see if I'm right that there's ~1/8" of clearance. If so, then 1/2" spacers would do the trick. And, there's probably that much adjustment available in the bumper brackets.

But, there's Ray's, and Janey's, suggestion of using a hammer to get clearance. In the pic below the one in question is the closer of the two white marks, the one just this side of the tape's end. I'm not opposed to dimpling the floor there as it will never be seen. And, if I can get 1/4" of movement that would cut the spacer size to 1/4".

If it is ever to be done, now is the time as once it is bolted down there's no way to get to it w/a hammer. So I'm going to ask my paint/body man to stop by on Thursday or Friday and we will see if he can dimple it. We might want to strap the thing to the lift arms to ensure it won't move, but that should be easy enough.

With your help I think it'll get there. And I'm feeling much better about it. Thanks!

[Steve83]

Ok guys, thanks. I think the plan is shaping up. I won't get to it today as we have other things going on, and maybe not tomorrow, but I'll tighten the bolts down to 40 lb-ft and see if I'm right that there's ~1/8" of clearance. If so, then 1/2" spacers would do the trick. And, there's probably that much adjustment available in the bumper brackets.

But, there's Ray's, and Janey's, suggestion of using a hammer to get clearance. In the pic below the one in question is the closer of the two white marks, the one just this side of the tape's end. I'm not opposed to dimpling the floor there as it will never be seen. And, if I can get 1/4" of movement that would cut the spacer size to 1/4".

If it is ever to be done, now is the time as once it is bolted down there's no way to get to it w/a hammer. So I'm going to ask my paint/body man to stop by on Thursday or Friday and we will see if he can dimple it. We might want to strap the thing to the lift arms to ensure it won't move, but that should be easy enough.

With your help I think it'll get there. And I'm feeling much better about it. Thanks!

An air hammer with a large face is probably a good way to work that sheet metal. Especially if you can put a large anvil (any chunk of steel or cast iron) on top to limit the bulge. But it should be easy to control the depth just by holding the tool back; even at full power. And being a faster impact, it's less-likely to push the body on the lift (which can be limited with ratchet straps).