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An air hammer with a large face is probably a good way to work that sheet metal. Especially if you can put a large anvil (any chunk of steel or cast iron) on top to limit the bulge. But it should be easy to control the depth just by holding the tool back; even at full power. And being a faster impact, it's less-likely to push the body on the lift (which can be limited with ratchet straps).

I sent a text to John and hope he'll come Thursday or Friday. I don't know what tools he will have or want to use, but he is a wizard on metal working.

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I sent a text to John and hope he'll come Thursday or Friday. I don't know what tools he will have or want to use, but he is a wizard on metal working.

Put the BW1356 t-case back on today. Cleaned the gasket surfaces, coated another gasket with Ultra Black, put the gasket and the t-case on, and snugged up the bolts. Tomorrow, after the RTV sets up, I'll torque the bolts down and touch them up.

And, speaking of touching things up, I also touched up the t-case where I cut the tab off. Can't really tell where it was now.

Also, I installed the new spark plugs. Haven't gapped plugs in years, but the NGK's came at .030" and I set them to .040". Then a little anti-seize and in they went. Boy, this was the easiest plug change I've done since the Briggs & Stratton Model N on my go-kart!

Still haven't heard from John, the paint/body man, so I don't know if he's coming tomorrow or Friday. Hope so as I'd like to have a pro put the dent in the floor.

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Also, I installed the new spark plugs. Haven't gapped plugs in years, but the NGK's came at .030" and I set them to .040". Then a little anti-seize and in they went. Boy, this was the easiest plug change I've done since the Briggs & Stratton Model N on my go-kart!

Wind up pull cord? :nabble_smiley_whistling:

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=Briggs+and+Stratton+Model+N&view=detail&mid=7B67B25E1CCF7E5B16137B67B25E1CCF7E5B1613&FORM=VIRE

 

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Also, I installed the new spark plugs. Haven't gapped plugs in years, but the NGK's came at .030" and I set them to .040". Then a little anti-seize and in they went. Boy, this was the easiest plug change I've done since the Briggs & Stratton Model N on my go-kart!
Wind up pull cord? :nabble_smiley_whistling:https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=Briggs+and+Stratton+Model+N&view=detail&mid=7B67B25E1CCF7E5B16137B67B25E1CCF7E5B1613&FORM=VIRE
That's the guy!

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That's the guy!

Man! Has it really been 5 days since I posted here? Oh well....Anyway John, the paint and body man, came down today to look at the situation with the floor of the cab. He doesn't want to start banging on it, and doesn't want to weld. But, he did recommend that I get a piece out of another cab and we graft it in. If it is just like this one we should be able to overlap them, use the structural adhesive as well as pop rivets, and make it every bit as strong. Plus, with undercoating on the bottom and Dynamat on the top, plus carpet, no one is going to see it.Below is a pic of the underside. The yellow oval shows where the tab was hitting - before it was exorcised. The red oval shows where the center bolt boss will hit after the mounts are tightened down unless something is done. And the green lines show where I think I'll trim a donor's floor.But, I'm now wishing I hadn't gotten rid of Huck. As a '90 would his floor have the raised spot extended? Or, would there be other differences that would make it difficult to fit it in?Anyway, anyone have a cab to cut up? John said he's headed to the salvage soon and will be on the look out for one. And Brandon/Bruno2 was just here and said many of the yards no longer allow cutoff wheels, so I need to check that out.Underside_Of_Floor.thumb.jpg.ac9e4114f872a3bd8025adbe7e23c94b.jpg
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Man! Has it really been 5 days since I posted here? Oh well....Anyway John, the paint and body man, came down today to look at the situation with the floor of the cab. He doesn't want to start banging on it, and doesn't want to weld. But, he did recommend that I get a piece out of another cab and we graft it in. If it is just like this one we should be able to overlap them, use the structural adhesive as well as pop rivets, and make it every bit as strong. Plus, with undercoating on the bottom and Dynamat on the top, plus carpet, no one is going to see it.Below is a pic of the underside. The yellow oval shows where the tab was hitting - before it was exorcised. The red oval shows where the center bolt boss will hit after the mounts are tightened down unless something is done. And the green lines show where I think I'll trim a donor's floor.But, I'm now wishing I hadn't gotten rid of Huck. As a '90 would his floor have the raised spot extended? Or, would there be other differences that would make it difficult to fit it in?Anyway, anyone have a cab to cut up? John said he's headed to the salvage soon and will be on the look out for one. And Brandon/Bruno2 was just here and said many of the yards no longer allow cutoff wheels, so I need to check that out.
Called North Yale Auto Salvage, which is maybe 10 miles away, and they think they have the right truck. And they'll let me cut it out. Further, they do allow battery-powered cutoff wheels, which Brandon tells me that some do not.

I'm not going to be available until next week, so hope get over there then. And, in the interim I have a good excuse to buy this: :nabble_smiley_evil:

 

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Called North Yale Auto Salvage, which is maybe 10 miles away, and they think they have the right truck. And they'll let me cut it out. Further, they do allow battery-powered cutoff wheels, which Brandon tells me that some do not.

I'm not going to be available until next week, so hope get over there then. And, in the interim I have a good excuse to buy this: :nabble_smiley_evil:

 

That's great! You always need more tools!I'll have to ask our pick and pull next time I'm there about cutting stuff. They won't let you in without long pants and shoes.
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...they do allow battery-powered cutoff wheels...
A jigsaw is probably more-efficient (burns through its battery slower, for the distance it cuts), but I was surprised at how clean a cut I got from the slitting chisels, and how fast they cut through sheet metal. A hammer drill that can be set to hammer-only would drive it.
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...they do allow battery-powered cutoff wheels...
A jigsaw is probably more-efficient (burns through its battery slower, for the distance it cuts), but I was surprised at how clean a cut I got from the slitting chisels, and how fast they cut through sheet metal. A hammer drill that can be set to hammer-only would drive it.

Grumpin - It is all in the way the information is presented. I explained that the yard has the part but that it will be less expensive if I pull it. But, my battery-powered reciprocating saw won't work as there's still a transmission down below that it would hit. So, I need a right-angle grinder, but it has to be battery-powered as there's no 110v in the yard.

Ridgid has one that uses my considerable complement of batteries, but from Home Depot it only comes in kits with other tools - for $300 or $700. And I already have most of those tools. However, Direct Tool has the grinder by itself for $99, and we are going to be there anyway on Friday.

On top of that, the Ridgid vacuum that we'd already agreed I'd buy when there isn't available in anything but a kit with a blower, which I don't need. So, this is less money all the way around. :nabble_smiley_wink:

Steve - I've not been impressed with how long metal-cutting jigsaw blades last. I've tried several different ones in my little 110V saw and they tend to die pretty quickly. But I've had good luck with cutoff wheels on a right-angle grinder, so will be going that way. And I'm not worried about the power situation. I have 4 batteries and that video says the batteries lasted a long time. So I should have plenty of power.

 

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Grumpin - It is all in the way the information is presented. I explained that the yard has the part but that it will be less expensive if I pull it. But, my battery-powered reciprocating saw won't work as there's still a transmission down below that it would hit. So, I need a right-angle grinder, but it has to be battery-powered as there's no 110v in the yard.

Ridgid has one that uses my considerable complement of batteries, but from Home Depot it only comes in kits with other tools - for $300 or $700. And I already have most of those tools. However, Direct Tool has the grinder by itself for $99, and we are going to be there anyway on Friday.

On top of that, the Ridgid vacuum that we'd already agreed I'd buy when there isn't available in anything but a kit with a blower, which I don't need. So, this is less money all the way around. :nabble_smiley_wink:

Steve - I've not been impressed with how long metal-cutting jigsaw blades last. I've tried several different ones in my little 110V saw and they tend to die pretty quickly. But I've had good luck with cutoff wheels on a right-angle grinder, so will be going that way. And I'm not worried about the power situation. I have 4 batteries and that video says the batteries lasted a long time. So I should have plenty of power.

That'll be fun! Making sparks at the junk yard!

Plus, and I like this, you'll still have your original floor!

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