Dad's Truck Build

[Steve83]

In fact, there was so much gunk that it clogged the 2nd-stage filter in the parts washer.

I'm testing a better filtration system for my washer... I bought a roll of white landscape fabric https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CERIZE and stapled it into the shape of my vat. Then I dropped it in right after the solvent was replaced, so it's perfectly clean outside, and used magnets to hold the fabric up on the walls of the vat. Now, there's ~300x as much surface area of "filter" between the dirty parts & the pump, and it's a much-finer filter, and it's disposable. When it gets grimy, I'll lift it out (slowly), drop in another (there's plenty on the roll), let the old one drip back into the vat for a day or 3, and then burn it.

The one on the left is from a 335 Series engine, has a part number of D7TE 7007-A and is marked D7TE-A. That's the one that came on Dad's engine.

And it's for a manual transmission.

...used with a C6, not an E4OD.

The E4OD is a variant/improvement/modernization of the C6, and Ford sometimes uses the old name to refer to the revised part. Sometimes 4R100s are referred to as E4ODs.

[Gary Lewis]

In fact, there was so much gunk that it clogged the 2nd-stage filter in the parts washer.

I'm testing a better filtration system for my washer... I bought a roll of white landscape fabric https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CERIZE and stapled it into the shape of my vat. Then I dropped it in right after the solvent was replaced, so it's perfectly clean outside, and used magnets to hold the fabric up on the walls of the vat. Now, there's ~300x as much surface area of "filter" between the dirty parts & the pump, and it's a much-finer filter, and it's disposable. When it gets grimy, I'll lift it out (slowly), drop in another (there's plenty on the roll), let the old one drip back into the vat for a day or 3, and then burn it.

The one on the left is from a 335 Series engine, has a part number of D7TE 7007-A and is marked D7TE-A. That's the one that came on Dad's engine.

And it's for a manual transmission.

...used with a C6, not an E4OD.

The E4OD is a variant/improvement/modernization of the C6, and Ford sometimes uses the old name to refer to the revised part. Sometimes 4R100s are referred to as E4ODs.

My cleaner has 3 levels of filtration:

 

1. Coarse screen
2. Fine screen
3. Replaceable filter element

The replaceable filter is one of the cartride-style units typically used for water filters. I've experimented with different filters and now found one that works whereas all the others plugged pretty quickly. The one that works is a 50 micron unit instead of the 5, 10, or 20 microns I've tried.

But, it was the fine screen filter that plugged, not the replaceable one. And it is easily pulled and rinsed, so that didn't take any time to solve.

But your plan should work nicely for your washer!

As for the engine plate, yes the one on the left is for a manual tranny. As shown below, the automatic tranny used D1AZ 7007-A, and that was for 351M, 400's, and 460's. And, oddly enough, I'd missed that the catalog says that part number may be marked either "D1AE 6A372-AA" or "E7TE-EA".

So, I've learned two things from that. One, they apparently gave a new engineering/ID # to an old part number. Two, both the catalog and some vendors used shorthand for engineering/ID #'s. In this case the plate on the right is marked "E7TE 6A373-EA". But the catalog omits the "6A373" part of that. And the plate on the left is marked "D1TE-A" and omits the "6A372".

And, the screen grab below shows that there's a place for an E4OD in the catalog, but they didn't put a "1" in that column to show that the plate is used for that tranny. But, it obviously was.

[Gary Lewis]

My cleaner has 3 levels of filtration:

 

1. Coarse screen
2. Fine screen
3. Replaceable filter element

The replaceable filter is one of the cartride-style units typically used for water filters. I've experimented with different filters and now found one that works whereas all the others plugged pretty quickly. The one that works is a 50 micron unit instead of the 5, 10, or 20 microns I've tried.

But, it was the fine screen filter that plugged, not the replaceable one. And it is easily pulled and rinsed, so that didn't take any time to solve.

But your plan should work nicely for your washer!

As for the engine plate, yes the one on the left is for a manual tranny. As shown below, the automatic tranny used D1AZ 7007-A, and that was for 351M, 400's, and 460's. And, oddly enough, I'd missed that the catalog says that part number may be marked either "D1AE 6A372-AA" or "E7TE-EA".

So, I've learned two things from that. One, they apparently gave a new engineering/ID # to an old part number. Two, both the catalog and some vendors used shorthand for engineering/ID #'s. In this case the plate on the right is marked "E7TE 6A373-EA". But the catalog omits the "6A373" part of that. And the plate on the left is marked "D1TE-A" and omits the "6A372".

And, the screen grab below shows that there's a place for an E4OD in the catalog, but they didn't put a "1" in that column to show that the plate is used for that tranny. But, it obviously was.

Got quite a bit done today. First, here's the fasteners for the driveline:And, here's the engine plate:Then I turned to the engine mounts, and got them POR15'd and then sprayed with the satin black Rustoleum. They aren't dry yet, but I can say that using spray paint dramatically improves the experience of using POR15.And, I can also say that POR15 sticks pretty well, even on un-prepared surfaces. My next task was to install the tie rods. But I quickly found that I had way too much paint, both POR and Rustoleum, on the threads to let the adjusters screw on. A trip to the wire wheel took the Rustoleum off fairly quickly, but the POR was still down there in the threads and took a lot more time. But the combination of the wire wheel and a thread file eventually got it off/out.And, here's the tie rods installed. I measured the old tie rods and made these the same length. But, I don't have them torqued down yet, although the fact that they are on is a huge step forward.

[grumpin]

Got quite a bit done today. First, here's the fasteners for the driveline:

And, here's the engine plate:

Then I turned to the engine mounts, and got them POR15'd and then sprayed with the satin black Rustoleum. They aren't dry yet, but I can say that using spray paint dramatically improves the experience of using POR15.

And, I can also say that POR15 sticks pretty well, even on un-prepared surfaces. My next task was to install the tie rods. But I quickly found that I had way too much paint, both POR and Rustoleum, on the threads to let the adjusters screw on. A trip to the wire wheel took the Rustoleum off fairly quickly, but the POR was still down there in the threads and took a lot more time. But the combination of the wire wheel and a thread file eventually got it off/out.

And, here's the tie rods installed. I measured the old tie rods and made these the same length. But, I don't have them torqued down yet, although the fact that they are on is a huge step forward.

Man, looks nice! Good job!

[Gary Lewis]

Man, looks nice! Good job!

Thanks! I'm on a mission to get ready for when my brother comes down to help. Gotta have lots of things done, but knocked out several of them today.

However, I want to have EVERYTHING lined out when he comes so there's no time wasted. Down to the point of having the fasteners laid out and electrical tape already on them, a list of tightening torques, etc. So, there is plenty to do.

[Ford F834]

Got quite a bit done today. First, here's the fasteners for the driveline:

And, here's the engine plate:

Then I turned to the engine mounts, and got them POR15'd and then sprayed with the satin black Rustoleum. They aren't dry yet, but I can say that using spray paint dramatically improves the experience of using POR15.

And, I can also say that POR15 sticks pretty well, even on un-prepared surfaces. My next task was to install the tie rods. But I quickly found that I had way too much paint, both POR and Rustoleum, on the threads to let the adjusters screw on. A trip to the wire wheel took the Rustoleum off fairly quickly, but the POR was still down there in the threads and took a lot more time. But the combination of the wire wheel and a thread file eventually got it off/out.

And, here's the tie rods installed. I measured the old tie rods and made these the same length. But, I don't have them torqued down yet, although the fact that they are on is a huge step forward.

Looks fantastic Gary! What are the silver color trapezoid shaped brackets bolted to the front cross member? What attaches to them? Mine did not have those. Are they related to the sway bars?

I know you are not using the ZF on Dad’s... but what’s with the 460 ZF engine plate? The “inspection cover” for the clutch is part of the plate. Does not do you much good for inspecting the clutch looks like the older manual transmission engine plate for 335 was not like that. Perhaps a worthy upgrade when putting the ZF in Big Blue? The diesel ZF inspection cover is a separate piece since there is no engine plate aside from the 1” thick adapter. If the 335 series 4 speeds have a separate inspection cover perhaps it could be made to work on the ZF? Or modify a diesel one?

[Gary Lewis]

Looks fantastic Gary! What are the silver color trapezoid shaped brackets bolted to the front cross member? What attaches to them? Mine did not have those. Are they related to the sway bars?

I know you are not using the ZF on Dad’s... but what’s with the 460 ZF engine plate? The “inspection cover” for the clutch is part of the plate. Does not do you much good for inspecting the clutch looks like the older manual transmission engine plate for 335 was not like that. Perhaps a worthy upgrade when putting the ZF in Big Blue? The diesel ZF inspection cover is a separate piece since there is no engine plate aside from the 1” thick adapter. If the 335 series 4 speeds have a separate inspection cover perhaps it could be made to work on the ZF? Or modify a diesel one?

Jonathan - The silver plates hold the sway bar. I'll take some pics of that, maybe tomorrow.

But the engine plate I powder coated is a 335 and 358-series automatic plate, not manual. Oh, you meant the other one, which is at least a 335-Series manual plate, and would surely fit a 460.

Yes, the 460's ZF plate is solid on the bottom and makes inspecting the clutch impossible. So, you are suggesting I could use it with the ZF5 on Big Blue? That's an idea! I'll have to think about that.

I think I modified the ZF cover when I had it on Dad's truck, so I'll look to see what I did and how the two plates compare. Cool!

[Steve83]

...both the catalog and some vendors used shorthand for engineering/ID #'s. In this case the plate on the right is marked "E7TE 6A373-EA". But the catalog omits the "6A373" part of that. And the plate on the left is marked "D1TE-A" and omits the "6A372".

That's very common on Ford parts & assemblies. The basic part is easily identified, so the base PN can be omitted; only the prefix & suffix are necessary.

https://supermotors.net/getfile/72194/thumbnail/trans79b.jpg

And, here's the engine plate...

I'm afraid you're going to have quite a few electrical problems soon & long into the future with so little bare metal-to-metal contact throughout the truck. You might have to overlay a trunk return wire system onto the truck to restore electrical grounding.

But I quickly found that I had way too much paint, both POR and Rustoleum, on the threads to let the adjusters screw on. A trip to the wire wheel took the Rustoleum off fairly quickly, but the POR was still down there in the threads and took a lot more time. But the combination of the wire wheel and a thread file eventually got it off/out.

That's another reason I prefer rubberized undercoating on the chassis - it doesn't interfere with threads, and it's easy to touch up after adjustments (like on those tie rods).

The “inspection cover” for the clutch is part of the plate. Does not do you much good for inspecting the clutch

There is no inspection plate for a clutch because it can't be inspected without removing the bellhousing. The clutch is on the backside of the flywheel, and that plate only allows access to the FRONT of a flexplate, to get at the torque converter nuts.

[Frank Wyatt]

Jonathan - The silver plates hold the sway bar. I'll take some pics of that, maybe tomorrow.

But the engine plate I powder coated is a 335 and 358-series automatic plate, not manual. Oh, you meant the other one, which is at least a 335-Series manual plate, and would surely fit a 460.

Yes, the 460's ZF plate is solid on the bottom and makes inspecting the clutch impossible. So, you are suggesting I could use it with the ZF5 on Big Blue? That's an idea! I'll have to think about that.

I think I modified the ZF cover when I had it on Dad's truck, so I'll look to see what I did and how the two plates compare. Cool!

If I wanted to have a way to inspect my clutch lining, I like would look at how the class 8 trucks do with an access in the bell housing itself. On class 8 trucks, that's how you access the clutch adjustment.

[Ford F834]

There is no inspection plate for a clutch because it can't be inspected without removing the bellhousing. The clutch is on the backside of the flywheel, and that plate only allows access to the FRONT of a flexplate, to get at the torque converter nuts.

This makes no sense to me... why wouldn’t you want to be able to remove it and have a look at the edge of the friction disc to see how much material is left? Or have a better look at your ring gear teeth, or check for oil leaking onto the clutch surface or, or, or...??? The diesel ZF has a removable one and you can see a lot with it off. True, you can’t reallt ~do much of anything without taking the transmission out but you can inspect and diagnose problems by spinning out a couple small bolts instead of dropping the whole transmission just to have a look.