Dad's Truck Build

[Gary Lewis]

Another option, either if you have the diff out or if you are able to remove the ring through the fill hole (but you probably can't get it all the way out through the fill hole...) is to leave the retaining ring out when you reassemble it. Then you can slide the shaft in and out freely without fighting with the ring or the case.

If you do that you need to come up with another way to keep the shaft from sliding out. When I put a LockRight in the front diff of my '95 F-150 I wasn't able to reinstall that retaining ring. So LockRight tells you to put a spring in the slip joint. That pushes the outer part of the axle out against the spindle and pushes the inner part in so it doesn't slide out. I can't say how well that holds up because I only had the LockRight in for 1 year. But that's the method they suggest, so apparently they think it's OK.

Dad's is a 1981 and has the D44 that uses a retaining ring. In other words, there's no clip inside the diff. You can read what I found on that topic on the Front Axles & Differentials and then the Dana 40 tab here: Driveline/Axles & Differentials.

But, you've pointed out that I should be able to pull the stub shaft out by pulling those three bolts - which I just torqued down yesterday. So, assuming I don't have to resort to the same pulling techniques I did originally, as written up on the above tab, it should be able to remove it, install the u-joint and next shaft, and easily re-install it.

Thanks!

[Nothing Special]

.... But, you've pointed out that I should be able to pull the stub shaft out by pulling those three bolts ....

Glad I could help (in spite of not knowing how I was helping)!

 

[Gary Lewis]

.... But, you've pointed out that I should be able to pull the stub shaft out by pulling those three bolts ....

Glad I could help (in spite of not knowing how I was helping)!

You and Steve suggested pulling the stub shaft, and while this one is a bit different than the one you were thinking of it came out fairly easy. So now I can put the freshly-painted u-joints in.

Here's what the stub shaft looks like on the early D44's. You can see the ring that holds it in with three bolts.

And, here's what the painted u-joints look like. (You should have seen the amount of tape I used on the outer axle shaft.) I'm going to let the paint set up overnight before I press them in.

And, here's what the whole front driveline looks like. Just put a diff between the two inner splined ends, and add another spindle to the left plus 3 more u-joints. And note the plastic slinger on the left/inner shaft, which is supposed to be 5" from the end of the splines.

And, here's the way I think the outer shaft, slinger, seal, and spacer go together:

Last, while I was waiting for paint to dry I did a bit of touch-up on the frame as well as the spindle studs. Here they are after a couple of coats of paint to ensure they don't rust. However, I will have to touch them up after the spindle goes on.

[Gary Lewis]

You and Steve suggested pulling the stub shaft, and while this one is a bit different than the one you were thinking of it came out fairly easy. So now I can put the freshly-painted u-joints in.

Here's what the stub shaft looks like on the early D44's. You can see the ring that holds it in with three bolts.

And, here's what the painted u-joints look like. (You should have seen the amount of tape I used on the outer axle shaft.) I'm going to let the paint set up overnight before I press them in.

And, here's what the whole front driveline looks like. Just put a diff between the two inner splined ends, and add another spindle to the left plus 3 more u-joints. And note the plastic slinger on the left/inner shaft, which is supposed to be 5" from the end of the splines.

And, here's the way I think the outer shaft, slinger, seal, and spacer go together:

Last, while I was waiting for paint to dry I did a bit of touch-up on the frame as well as the spindle studs. Here they are after a couple of coats of paint to ensure they don't rust. However, I will have to touch them up after the spindle goes on.

Ok guys, I need some help. I can't find replacement c-clips for the u-joints. Or, at least I'm not sure I can find them.

The u-joints are Spicer 5-760X, and everywhere I look online those should come with c-clips. But Vernon appears to have removed them and replaced them with the full-circle snap rings, which cannot be used w/o machining the shafts to accommodate them.

I've found online Dorman 81025 that has 4 c-clips and 4 of the clips that go in the end of a yoke to retain the cap externally. But, even Dorman's site doesn't say what size they are. Instead it says they are "universal". Unfortunately O'Reilly's didn't seem to have them to check size, although I didn't have the part number at the time so maybe overlooked them.

If the weather allows the local parts places to open tomorrow, which is iffy, I'll call around to see if anyone has them and check for size. But do any of y'all know of a source for the c-clips themselves?

[grumpin]

Ok guys, I need some help. I can't find replacement c-clips for the u-joints. Or, at least I'm not sure I can find them.

The u-joints are Spicer 5-760X, and everywhere I look online those should come with c-clips. But Vernon appears to have removed them and replaced them with the full-circle snap rings, which cannot be used w/o machining the shafts to accommodate them.

I've found online Dorman 81025 that has 4 c-clips and 4 of the clips that go in the end of a yoke to retain the cap externally. But, even Dorman's site doesn't say what size they are. Instead it says they are "universal". Unfortunately O'Reilly's didn't seem to have them to check size, although I didn't have the part number at the time so maybe overlooked them.

If the weather allows the local parts places to open tomorrow, which is iffy, I'll call around to see if anyone has them and check for size. But do any of y'all know of a source for the c-clips themselves?

Those C Clips are hard to find all right.

Found this: https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-133042-dana-30-dana-44-u-joint-spicer-5-760x.html

And may want to read this, some possible substitutes: https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1057387

I wouldn't think they would be hard to find. If some one has that Dorman kit local, you may be able to make that work.

[Gary Lewis]

Those C Clips are hard to find all right.

Found this: https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-133042-dana-30-dana-44-u-joint-spicer-5-760x.html

And may want to read this, some possible substitutes: https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1057387

I wouldn't think they would be hard to find. If some one has that Dorman kit local, you may be able to make that work.

Thanks, grumpin. The East Coast outfit might sell me just the clips. So I can call them Monday if I don't find them before then.

As for the Naxja thread, I'd read that. But it is very confusing and it appeared that what they found weren't exactly the right size. Or, did I read that incorrectly.

And yes, if I can find the Dorman kit locally at least I'll know if they are the right size. Oddly enough, Summit as the kit for $4.99 plus shipping and Amazon has it for $8.25 with free shipping. Summit's total is $22.96 for the 3 kits I need, and Amazon's is $24.75 and I can have them Wednesday.

We shall see.

[grumpin]

Thanks, grumpin. The East Coast outfit might sell me just the clips. So I can call them Monday if I don't find them before then.

As for the Naxja thread, I'd read that. But it is very confusing and it appeared that what they found weren't exactly the right size. Or, did I read that incorrectly.

And yes, if I can find the Dorman kit locally at least I'll know if they are the right size. Oddly enough, Summit as the kit for $4.99 plus shipping and Amazon has it for $8.25 with free shipping. Summit's total is $22.96 for the 3 kits I need, and Amazon's is $24.75 and I can have them Wednesday.

We shall see.

No, I skimmed that article and noticed several "opinions" on the size.

I seem to remember having clips like the kind you're looking for, that were a little too big. And I think I was able to file down the part that touched in the middle and get them to fit.

HTH!

 

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks, grumpin. The East Coast outfit might sell me just the clips. So I can call them Monday if I don't find them before then.

As for the Naxja thread, I'd read that. But it is very confusing and it appeared that what they found weren't exactly the right size. Or, did I read that incorrectly.

And yes, if I can find the Dorman kit locally at least I'll know if they are the right size. Oddly enough, Summit as the kit for $4.99 plus shipping and Amazon has it for $8.25 with free shipping. Summit's total is $22.96 for the 3 kits I need, and Amazon's is $24.75 and I can have them Wednesday.

We shall see.

No, I skimmed that article and noticed several "opinions" on the size.

I seem to remember having clips like the kind you're looking for, that were a little too big. And I think I was able to file down the part that touched in the middle and get them to fit.

HTH!

I know that two steps forward and one backward is still progress, but when you have the step backward right out of the gate it doesn't bode well.

I started assembling driveshaft parts by installing u-joints, and the first two things I joined weren't supposed to joined. So, the question became how to remove the u-joint w/o messing up the powder coating. A bit of trial and error found that this arrangement worked a treat:

That's a piece of 2x4 w/a 2x2" hole milled in it. (Yep, it is amazing how quickly an end mill cuts through a piece of wood. ) The 1/4" plate on top spreads the load of the press, and out the cap came.

Then I started assembling the right pieces and discovered that is very difficult w/o the c-clips. In every case one cap was willing to go in but the other wasn't. So the willing one got shoved back out w/o the clip to stop it. Luckily I had 3 clips left and made 3 more by breaking the ears off the snap rings that were in the boxes.

And that allowed me to get everything together, albeit with some self-induced difficulty. You see, I was adding a bit of lube to each cap. But when I was then installing things I was having difficulty getting the last little bit of movement to install the 2nd clip. Then I found a little piece of paper in one box that said not to add any grease. And, sure enough, the next u-joint went together nicely.

Also, I called O'Reilly's and they have 3 of the Dorman kits on order and they should be in tomorrow afternoon. If they are the right ones then I can install them and then install the front driveline. If not I'll call the outfit Grumpin found and see if they'll sell me some.

Anyway, here's the driveline awaiting the clips as well as some cleanup and touch up.

 

[grumpin]

I know that two steps forward and one backward is still progress, but when you have the step backward right out of the gate it doesn't bode well.

I started assembling driveshaft parts by installing u-joints, and the first two things I joined weren't supposed to joined. So, the question became how to remove the u-joint w/o messing up the powder coating. A bit of trial and error found that this arrangement worked a treat:

That's a piece of 2x4 w/a 2x2" hole milled in it. (Yep, it is amazing how quickly an end mill cuts through a piece of wood. ) The 1/4" plate on top spreads the load of the press, and out the cap came.

Then I started assembling the right pieces and discovered that is very difficult w/o the c-clips. In every case one cap was willing to go in but the other wasn't. So the willing one got shoved back out w/o the clip to stop it. Luckily I had 3 clips left and made 3 more by breaking the ears off the snap rings that were in the boxes.

And that allowed me to get everything together, albeit with some self-induced difficulty. You see, I was adding a bit of lube to each cap. But when I was then installing things I was having difficulty getting the last little bit of movement to install the 2nd clip. Then I found a little piece of paper in one box that said not to add any grease. And, sure enough, the next u-joint went together nicely.

Also, I called O'Reilly's and they have 3 of the Dorman kits on order and they should be in tomorrow afternoon. If they are the right ones then I can install them and then install the front driveline. If not I'll call the outfit Grumpin found and see if they'll sell me some.

Anyway, here's the driveline awaiting the clips as well as some cleanup and touch up.

Wow! Good work! Nice tool!

I had a bad u joint on my Bronco's rear drive shaft, the double Cardan Joint. Talked to my old mechanic and he said just get a rebuilt one from a parts store, they're a pain. He was swamped.

Nobody had one, and none listed anywhere. Took it to a local driveline shop, they finished it that afternoon for $110.00, painted and all. I was happy.

Instead of fighting it, next bad u joint, and the drive shaft goes there!

[Gary Lewis]

Wow! Good work! Nice tool!

I had a bad u joint on my Bronco's rear drive shaft, the double Cardan Joint. Talked to my old mechanic and he said just get a rebuilt one from a parts store, they're a pain. He was swamped.

Nobody had one, and none listed anywhere. Took it to a local driveline shop, they finished it that afternoon for $110.00, painted and all. I was happy.

Instead of fighting it, next bad u joint, and the drive shaft goes there!

Thanks!

If it hadn't been for all the powder coating and painting I might have taken this elsewhere. But I doubt they'd be kind to the paint/powder, so needed to do it myself. And if the c-clips fit tomorrow I'll be a happy camper.

Still need to find a repair kit for the Mile Marker hubs as one of the o-rings is damaged. And MM doesn't show one for that hub on their site so I'll need to call them tomorrow. Meanwhile I can lube the wheel bearings and button up all but the lockouts.

After the driveline is installed I need to do the sway bar. And then maybe the brakes and brake lines. Then, I should be ready to install an engine and tranny.