Dad's Truck Build

[Gary Lewis]

Sounds like the plan is coming together.

But, I realized today that the suspension isn't done. I don't yet have the sway bar on. In fact, it hasn't been powder coated, nor has some of its mounting hardware.

So, tomorrow I'll be rounding up all the parts and getting ready to blast and PC then next batch. And I'll include the MM dial.

I made some progress today. First, I got the inner needle bearings out of the spindles. I did it by reversing the arms on my small puller and pulling against a screwdriver, as shown below. Then, when the bearing hit the screwdriver I put the edge of the spindle on the edge of the work table and came down through the spindle with a brass drift against the screw of the puller. A few taps with a hammer knocked the bearings out the rest of the way. So now I need to order some new ones.

Then I protected the bearing and seal positions and blasted one spindle. Here's a comparison:

And here's a closeup of the lockouts:

And here's the batch I'll PC tomorrow, Lord willing:

[Steve83]

And, in the midst of the this discussion regarding the manual locks, here are the rotors. Think I'll blast them, which I should have done before having them turned, and then paint them. Paint not powder as I don't want to have to mask them with the high-temp tape that would be needed for the oven.

On the other hand, I have some of Eastwood's High Temp black powder, and could use that, which would probably stand up to the environment better. And I could mask with aluminum foil to minimize the use of tape.

Hmmmm....

I missed this before, but it appears to be relevant again...

...High Temp black powder, and could use that, which would probably stand up to the environment better.

If your PC oven can melt the powder, then the normal operating temperatures of the rotors will certainly melt or burn it off. I used BBQ paint on mine because it's specifically designed for nearly-red-hot steel.

BTW

The "correct" tool to use on your internal bearing puller was a slide hammer.

https://supermotors.net/getfile/553905/thumbnail/slidehammertoggle.jpg

[85lebaront2]

I made some progress today. First, I got the inner needle bearings out of the spindles. I did it by reversing the arms on my small puller and pulling against a screwdriver, as shown below. Then, when the bearing hit the screwdriver I put the edge of the spindle on the edge of the work table and came down through the spindle with a brass drift against the screw of the puller. A few taps with a hammer knocked the bearings out the rest of the way. So now I need to order some new ones.

Then I protected the bearing and seal positions and blasted one spindle. Here's a comparison:

And here's a closeup of the lockouts:

And here's the batch I'll PC tomorrow, Lord willing:

I agree with Steve83 on the rotors, also you can paint them after turning to prevent rusting, the first time you apply the brakes it will rub off where the pads ride, it will take a couple of times to get them clean and shiny.

[Steve83]

...you can paint them after turning to prevent rusting, the first time you apply the brakes it will rub off where the pads ride...

I wouldn't ever intentionally contaminate the pads with anything not designed specifically to treat brake pads (and Ford doesn't even allow/recommend THOSE products). The best thing for any brake friction material is flat, clean steel/Iron - even if it's a little rusty.

If you apply anything to slow the rust, I'd remove it all before driving or braking.

[Gary Lewis]

I agree with Steve83 on the rotors, also you can paint them after turning to prevent rusting, the first time you apply the brakes it will rub off where the pads ride, it will take a couple of times to get them clean and shiny.

Steve - That's a good idea on BBQ paint. Don't think I have any, but I'm going out tomorrow so will pick some up.

And you are right on the puller - I just don't happen to have a side hammer. But, I did consider cobbling one together by threading a piece of rod and boring a weight to make the slide. However, the other trick worked a treat so thought I'd share it.

Bill - Good idea. I can paint the whole rotor and not have to mask it off. That'll save a whole lot of time.

Thanks, guys!

[Gary Lewis]

Steve - That's a good idea on BBQ paint. Don't think I have any, but I'm going out tomorrow so will pick some up.

And you are right on the puller - I just don't happen to have a side hammer. But, I did consider cobbling one together by threading a piece of rod and boring a weight to make the slide. However, the other trick worked a treat so thought I'd share it.

Bill - Good idea. I can paint the whole rotor and not have to mask it off. That'll save a whole lot of time.

Thanks, guys!

Well, I'll start today's installment while the last pieces are baking in the PC oven.

First, the eye doctor's report: Perfect! The cornea has almost completely filled in, and he thinks it will have be tonight. That's how fast those cells grow. So, he took the clear contact lens off, which made things feel better. There's still some discomfort, but not pain. And when I need it, Tylenol takes the edge off that.

And, on the way back from the Dr's office I got a can of Rust-Oleum High Heat, which is supposedly good to 1200 F - far better than powder, even Eastwood's discontinued High Heat Black. (Thanks again, Steve.) And I used most of the can on the rotors, ensuring that they have 3 good coats and that it wafted through the vents. (Yes, I know that will cut down on the heat exchange some.)

Then I masked the hubs and spindles and applied the Sherwin Williams semi-gloss powder to the hubs, spindles, lugs, lock-outs, and side windshield trim and popped them in the oven. And, while the parts were baking I pulled out the ID tag for the front diff and started looking up the seals and bearings for the driveshafts/hubs. (Not the wheel bearings but the needle bearings for the driveshafts.) Got all the part #'s and started looking for them online. Then I had a thought - didn't Vernon have some of that stuff for Big Blue? Sure enough, I have more than a full set of bearings and seals for a D44. Big Blue - the gift that keeps on giving! Thanks again, Vernon!

Then, when the parts were cool I taped off the lock-outs and applied the red powder, using electrostatic attraction, and popped them back in the oven. They are now done and cooling. Can't wait to see how they turned out.

Hmmm.... I peeked and the red isn't thick enough. It shows the black through a bit. So, since the lock-outs were still somewhat hot I applied another generous layer of powder. They are now back in the oven, but I'm not sure there will be enough time to get a pic of them this evening as the oven is still at 300 headed to 400. And, I have a hard-stop at 5:00.

So, here's a pic of the rest of the stuff PC'd:

And, for comparison, here's the "before" pic:

 

[Gary Lewis]

Well, I'll start today's installment while the last pieces are baking in the PC oven.

First, the eye doctor's report: Perfect! The cornea has almost completely filled in, and he thinks it will have be tonight. That's how fast those cells grow. So, he took the clear contact lens off, which made things feel better. There's still some discomfort, but not pain. And when I need it, Tylenol takes the edge off that.

And, on the way back from the Dr's office I got a can of Rust-Oleum High Heat, which is supposedly good to 1200 F - far better than powder, even Eastwood's discontinued High Heat Black. (Thanks again, Steve.) And I used most of the can on the rotors, ensuring that they have 3 good coats and that it wafted through the vents. (Yes, I know that will cut down on the heat exchange some.)

Then I masked the hubs and spindles and applied the Sherwin Williams semi-gloss powder to the hubs, spindles, lugs, lock-outs, and side windshield trim and popped them in the oven. And, while the parts were baking I pulled out the ID tag for the front diff and started looking up the seals and bearings for the driveshafts/hubs. (Not the wheel bearings but the needle bearings for the driveshafts.) Got all the part #'s and started looking for them online. Then I had a thought - didn't Vernon have some of that stuff for Big Blue? Sure enough, I have more than a full set of bearings and seals for a D44. Big Blue - the gift that keeps on giving! Thanks again, Vernon!

Then, when the parts were cool I taped off the lock-outs and applied the red powder, using electrostatic attraction, and popped them back in the oven. They are now done and cooling. Can't wait to see how they turned out.

Hmmm.... I peeked and the red isn't thick enough. It shows the black through a bit. So, since the lock-outs were still somewhat hot I applied another generous layer of powder. They are now back in the oven, but I'm not sure there will be enough time to get a pic of them this evening as the oven is still at 300 headed to 400. And, I have a hard-stop at 5:00.

So, here's a pic of the rest of the stuff PC'd:

And, for comparison, here's the "before" pic:

Ok, here's a pic of one of the lock-outs. I pulled the tape while the powder was still hot, so maybe that explains the tape marks. I'll leave the other one to cool and see what it looks like.

[scbill]

I made some progress today. First, I got the inner needle bearings out of the spindles. I did it by reversing the arms on my small puller and pulling against a screwdriver, as shown below. Then, when the bearing hit the screwdriver I put the edge of the spindle on the edge of the work table and came down through the spindle with a brass drift against the screw of the puller. A few taps with a hammer knocked the bearings out the rest of the way. So now I need to order some new ones.

Then I protected the bearing and seal positions and blasted one spindle. Here's a comparison:

And here's a closeup of the lockouts:

And here's the batch I'll PC tomorrow, Lord willing:

 

Posted this on autorestomod, got a few likes.

FWIW...when you have a long way to pull, an impact wrench on low pressure works pretty good.

Bill

https://www.facebook.com/groups/autorestomod/?multi_permalinks=1102079899998766&notif_id=1551323080234749&notif_t=feedback_reaction_generic

[Gary Lewis]

 

Posted this on autorestomod, got a few likes.

FWIW...when you have a long way to pull, an impact wrench on low pressure works pretty good.

Bill

https://www.facebook.com/groups/autorestomod/?multi_permalinks=1102079899998766&notif_id=1551323080234749&notif_t=feedback_reaction_generic

Bill - Thanks, but you didn't tell them to use a drift to get it out the last little bit when the bearing hits the screwdriver. As for the impact, I'll give that a try.

Now, for a few questions for y'all. The factory shop manual (Driveline/Axles and Differentials and tabs Front Axles then Instructions) says "Install a new seal with the seal lip directed away from the spindle."

The pic on the left shows the bearing installed and the seal laying out, and then the pic on the right has the seal installed. Is that "away from the spindle"? In other words, is that correct?

Next up, u-joints. I installed one of the u-joints and reached for the snap ring, only to find they are the outside style, as shown on the right, below. As you can see below, I installed one of the inside style, shown on the left, just to get it in. But, these u-joints obviously have the grooves for the inside style. What am I missing?

Also, how many demerits do I get for not painting nor powder coating the u-joints and caps? This is getting crazy, and to be able to paint them they'd have to be degreased, which is quite a task. But powder coating would be a lot more work. Where do I draw the line?

Next, the u-joint for the center joint, as shown below. I think I can do it with a large c-clamp, but is there a better way?

Last, I actually did get something done today. The front diff is fully torqued in, including the ID tag.

 

[Ford F834]

Bill - Thanks, but you didn't tell them to use a drift to get it out the last little bit when the bearing hits the screwdriver. As for the impact, I'll give that a try.

Now, for a few questions for y'all. The factory shop manual (Driveline/Axles and Differentials and tabs Front Axles then Instructions) says "Install a new seal with the seal lip directed away from the spindle."

The pic on the left shows the bearing installed and the seal laying out, and then the pic on the right has the seal installed. Is that "away from the spindle"? In other words, is that correct?

Next up, u-joints. I installed one of the u-joints and reached for the snap ring, only to find they are the outside style, as shown on the right, below. As you can see below, I installed one of the inside style, shown on the left, just to get it in. But, these u-joints obviously have the grooves for the inside style. What am I missing?

Also, how many demerits do I get for not painting nor powder coating the u-joints and caps? This is getting crazy, and to be able to paint them they'd have to be degreased, which is quite a task. But powder coating would be a lot more work. Where do I draw the line?

Next, the u-joint for the center joint, as shown below. I think I can do it with a large c-clamp, but is there a better way?

Last, I actually did get something done today. The front diff is fully torqued in, including the ID tag.

Gary, are the U joints even made out of an alloy that rusts? I’ve seen the spring keepers rust but never the caps. If it were me, at the very most I would shoot some paint on the X and call it good. I think you will drive yourself crazy trying to install painted or coated caps.