Fuel Injection upgrade

[LARIAT 85]

Also, I think there are at least three sizes of V8 air cleaner lids: the 351W HO/460 lid is the largest; the Mustang HO lid is next; and the truck 2bbl lid is the smallest. I'm not sure that the Mustang lid isn't the same size as the 2bbl lid, but I'm fairly sure it is smaller than the 351W HO lid.

The air cleaner lid for the 460 engine is the same size as the lids found on the 5.8L 4V H.O. and the [dual snorkel] 5.0L 4V H.O. found on the 1983 - 1985 Mustang GT. These air cleaners were designed to fit over the stock Motorcraft/Holley 4180 carburetor, which all of these models used.

The [dual snorkel] 5.0L E.F.I. H.O. air cleaner lid found on the 1984 and 1985 Mustang GT with automatic transmissions is also the same size, but the air cleaner housing is a bit larger to fit over the throttle body.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Also, I think there are at least three sizes of V8 air cleaner lids: the 351W HO/460 lid is the largest; the Mustang HO lid is next; and the truck 2bbl lid is the smallest. I'm not sure that the Mustang lid isn't the same size as the 2bbl lid, but I'm fairly sure it is smaller than the 351W HO lid.

The air cleaner lid for the 460 engine is the same size as the lids found on the 5.8L 4V H.O. and the [dual snorkel] 5.0L 4V H.O. found on the 1983 - 1985 Mustang GT. These air cleaners were designed to fit over the stock Motorcraft/Holley 4180 carburetor, which all of these models used.

The [dual snorkel] 5.0L E.F.I. H.O. air cleaner lid found on the 1984 and 1985 Mustang GT with automatic transmissions is also the same size, but the air cleaner housing is a bit larger to fit over the throttle body.

Good to know, Rick. Thanks!

[Rusty_S85]

Little update, havent done much though seeing as work is slow and money coming in is a bit slow to allow me to make larger payments out at this moment. But I did save some money though on my fuel injection setup though.

With how many systems I have installed at work, the customers have bought their own Sniper systems themselves and brought them to us to install. They how ever purchase the complete kit complete with external fuel pump, hose, fittings, clamps, and other parts. We dont really use much of this stuff as we always push the customer to install a in tank fuel pump as its a better setup. Needless to say I have a bunch of brand new left over parts, so I checked what I had at work this past week as I toss them all into a single box I use for plumbing fittings. I found that in the box I had the following fittings.

x6 -6AN Earls VaporGuard hose end

x2 -6AN unknown brand 45* hose end (push lock)

x11 #16 fuel injection hose clamps

x2 Russell EFI fitting female quick disconnect -6AN to unknown size (possibly 3/8")

What I needed for my system is exactly six of the VaporGuard hose ends which I had brand new, I also needed the #16 fuel injection hose clamps so I dont have to buy those, the quick disconnect I need two 5/16" and two 3/8" but not sure which ones I have so I purchased the following.

x2 Russell 640853 -6AN to 3/8" female quick disconnect

x2 Russell 640863 -6AN to 5/16" female quick disconnect

x1 Vibrant 16881 - 6AN to 3/8" male quick disconnect

Was going to pick these up from Summit/Jegs but the total cost with tax and shipping was pushing $78. I ended up buying from amazon as I got all of this with tax included with free prime shipping for $46.78 which saved me a easy $30 on my purchase ontop of the money I saved from having to buy the hose clamps, and the -6AN vaporguard hose ends. Instead of buying the 45 I will try the 45 degree fitting on the engine stand when I mock it all up to see which looks better and if the 45 will look better then I will order the proper VaporGuard 45. Boss wants me to use what is avaliable but non vapor guard hose ends will actually have a good chance of tearing the inner barrier of the hose which is supposed to reduce the amount of fuel vapors escaping through the hose itself. I myself do not want to have any problems so I will be spending the money to use the correct components.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I will break this part out as this is not related to the fittings, this has to do with the fuel tank. For those that know, when Ford made the switch to EFI in '85/'86 the fuel tanks were changed to accept a in tank fuel pump but baffling was not added to the fuel tanks. The baffling wouldnt be added till the mid '90s from what I have been able to find out.

This is where my plan changed, I decided to use Holley's 16-111 HydraMat which is a rectangular sock that is in 3"x15" dimensions with a 11mm connector for the pump. The video below shows a demo of the HydraMat in action.

The reviews I have read on this many people have stated that they ran their tank basically bone dry when their engine stalled out. This sounds great but with the design of the ford saddle tank I am not too sure how well it will work as I havent had a chance to measure the saddle tank to see how far the hydramat will reach.

This is where Texas Auto Gear comes into play, at work we have used them before and David is a real stand up guy. Im going to be contacting him to see how much money he would charge to take my new '85-'86 saddle tank and cutting the top off the tank and fabricating and welding in a baffle to isolate the pump from the rest of the tank to ensure there will not be a problem. If 15" length would be doable I am really contemplating having the baffle made 15" long so I can still use the HydraMat as it does a very good job at sucking up all the fuel it touches which will go a long way to preventing air bubbles from entering the fuel system. I also want to ask David to see how much he would charge me to cut the fuel tank forward of the forward saddle mount and welding in a new piece of metal extending the fuel tank around 4 to 6 inches infront of the front saddle mount. If I am doing my math right without accounting for the crunched down front of the tank adding 6" would be adding 5.44 Gallons to the tank. But this is going off the dimensions listed on the product page for the spectra tank. I figured 5 gallons is about the most I could hope for adding 6" to the length which would raise a 16.5 (thats what spectra lists the tank as) saddle tank to 21.5 Gallons at most. My goal would be 19 Gallons if possible, and if I go with the shorter 4" addition to length that would give me 3.63 gallons or a best of 3 gallons which would put me right at 19.5 gallons. I just have to crawl under my truck and see if I can extend the length of my tank towards the front without interference and hopefully David wont charge too much to modify this tank.

I figure if I pull this off then I would basically have a short bed flare side F150 with between a 19 and 21 gallon fuel tank in the OE location. This would be on par with cutting a second fuel door on the flare side fender and adding a rear tank. That is always another option but I dont want to deal with the complication of adding a second tank and doing it right, I am so picky I would want OE switches in the dash and everything and that is just getting too far into it. I feel this will be the best way for me especially considering I have to have my tank chopped up anyways to add a baffling into it in the first place.

Only thing I have to decide on is how I want to coat my fuel tank after I get it back before installation. I could get Eastwood`s Tank Tone but Ive used it before and it scratches fairly easily. I think a better option would be Eastwoods 2K paint which is quite pricy but its fairly durable.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

This break out is for the tuning of the sniper itself. I was going to just drive the truck and play with it myself, but being on the Holley Sniper Owners Group over on FB, I found that there is a local guy to me out in Crosby that does remote as well as in person tuning of these systems, he also has a chassis dyno and not sure if I should wait till after I do my transmission and axle ratio change or let him do the tuning with these old components but the starting price is $200 for a tune in person and I could kill two birds with one stone by letting him tune my truck as well as see what kind of power my 306 is making at the rear wheels. Which will be fairly low with a worn out C6 transmission with a good amount of slippage ontop of having 31x10.50-15 BFG KO2`s and a OE 2.75:1 axle ratio.

But this guy is supposed to be good everyone cant say enough good things about him and I rather let him tune my setup and make my truck where he will just run like a modern fuel injection setup.

Then if Dakota Digital ever comes out with an RTX Retro gauge set for our trucks I will pick that up then pick up a hyperspark I believe it is and add timing control to my sniper as well and let him tune that aspect in as well.

[Rusty_S85]

Little update, havent done much though seeing as work is slow and money coming in is a bit slow to allow me to make larger payments out at this moment. But I did save some money though on my fuel injection setup though.

With how many systems I have installed at work, the customers have bought their own Sniper systems themselves and brought them to us to install. They how ever purchase the complete kit complete with external fuel pump, hose, fittings, clamps, and other parts. We dont really use much of this stuff as we always push the customer to install a in tank fuel pump as its a better setup. Needless to say I have a bunch of brand new left over parts, so I checked what I had at work this past week as I toss them all into a single box I use for plumbing fittings. I found that in the box I had the following fittings.

x6 -6AN Earls VaporGuard hose end

x2 -6AN unknown brand 45* hose end (push lock)

x11 #16 fuel injection hose clamps

x2 Russell EFI fitting female quick disconnect -6AN to unknown size (possibly 3/8")

What I needed for my system is exactly six of the VaporGuard hose ends which I had brand new, I also needed the #16 fuel injection hose clamps so I dont have to buy those, the quick disconnect I need two 5/16" and two 3/8" but not sure which ones I have so I purchased the following.

x2 Russell 640853 -6AN to 3/8" female quick disconnect

x2 Russell 640863 -6AN to 5/16" female quick disconnect

x1 Vibrant 16881 - 6AN to 3/8" male quick disconnect

Was going to pick these up from Summit/Jegs but the total cost with tax and shipping was pushing $78. I ended up buying from amazon as I got all of this with tax included with free prime shipping for $46.78 which saved me a easy $30 on my purchase ontop of the money I saved from having to buy the hose clamps, and the -6AN vaporguard hose ends. Instead of buying the 45 I will try the 45 degree fitting on the engine stand when I mock it all up to see which looks better and if the 45 will look better then I will order the proper VaporGuard 45. Boss wants me to use what is avaliable but non vapor guard hose ends will actually have a good chance of tearing the inner barrier of the hose which is supposed to reduce the amount of fuel vapors escaping through the hose itself. I myself do not want to have any problems so I will be spending the money to use the correct components.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I will break this part out as this is not related to the fittings, this has to do with the fuel tank. For those that know, when Ford made the switch to EFI in '85/'86 the fuel tanks were changed to accept a in tank fuel pump but baffling was not added to the fuel tanks. The baffling wouldnt be added till the mid '90s from what I have been able to find out.

This is where my plan changed, I decided to use Holley's 16-111 HydraMat which is a rectangular sock that is in 3"x15" dimensions with a 11mm connector for the pump. The video below shows a demo of the HydraMat in action.

The reviews I have read on this many people have stated that they ran their tank basically bone dry when their engine stalled out. This sounds great but with the design of the ford saddle tank I am not too sure how well it will work as I havent had a chance to measure the saddle tank to see how far the hydramat will reach.

This is where Texas Auto Gear comes into play, at work we have used them before and David is a real stand up guy. Im going to be contacting him to see how much money he would charge to take my new '85-'86 saddle tank and cutting the top off the tank and fabricating and welding in a baffle to isolate the pump from the rest of the tank to ensure there will not be a problem. If 15" length would be doable I am really contemplating having the baffle made 15" long so I can still use the HydraMat as it does a very good job at sucking up all the fuel it touches which will go a long way to preventing air bubbles from entering the fuel system. I also want to ask David to see how much he would charge me to cut the fuel tank forward of the forward saddle mount and welding in a new piece of metal extending the fuel tank around 4 to 6 inches infront of the front saddle mount. If I am doing my math right without accounting for the crunched down front of the tank adding 6" would be adding 5.44 Gallons to the tank. But this is going off the dimensions listed on the product page for the spectra tank. I figured 5 gallons is about the most I could hope for adding 6" to the length which would raise a 16.5 (thats what spectra lists the tank as) saddle tank to 21.5 Gallons at most. My goal would be 19 Gallons if possible, and if I go with the shorter 4" addition to length that would give me 3.63 gallons or a best of 3 gallons which would put me right at 19.5 gallons. I just have to crawl under my truck and see if I can extend the length of my tank towards the front without interference and hopefully David wont charge too much to modify this tank.

I figure if I pull this off then I would basically have a short bed flare side F150 with between a 19 and 21 gallon fuel tank in the OE location. This would be on par with cutting a second fuel door on the flare side fender and adding a rear tank. That is always another option but I dont want to deal with the complication of adding a second tank and doing it right, I am so picky I would want OE switches in the dash and everything and that is just getting too far into it. I feel this will be the best way for me especially considering I have to have my tank chopped up anyways to add a baffling into it in the first place.

Only thing I have to decide on is how I want to coat my fuel tank after I get it back before installation. I could get Eastwood`s Tank Tone but Ive used it before and it scratches fairly easily. I think a better option would be Eastwoods 2K paint which is quite pricy but its fairly durable.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

This break out is for the tuning of the sniper itself. I was going to just drive the truck and play with it myself, but being on the Holley Sniper Owners Group over on FB, I found that there is a local guy to me out in Crosby that does remote as well as in person tuning of these systems, he also has a chassis dyno and not sure if I should wait till after I do my transmission and axle ratio change or let him do the tuning with these old components but the starting price is $200 for a tune in person and I could kill two birds with one stone by letting him tune my truck as well as see what kind of power my 306 is making at the rear wheels. Which will be fairly low with a worn out C6 transmission with a good amount of slippage ontop of having 31x10.50-15 BFG KO2`s and a OE 2.75:1 axle ratio.

But this guy is supposed to be good everyone cant say enough good things about him and I rather let him tune my setup and make my truck where he will just run like a modern fuel injection setup.

Then if Dakota Digital ever comes out with an RTX Retro gauge set for our trucks I will pick that up then pick up a hyperspark I believe it is and add timing control to my sniper as well and let him tune that aspect in as well.

Another update, I added more to my purchase from amazon cause the paper note I had the part numbers wrote down on that I keep at my pc for ordering, I had the wrong part number, 670344 wrote down when it should be 670343 for the fuel pressure take off in -6AN in black. Amazon does have this so I purchased the Russell Analog Fuel pressure gauge 0-100 psi 650320 and the Russell Proclassic fuel pressure fitting 670343.

I also picked up a chrome proform ford oval fuel pump block off that I will see how well Eastwood 2K engine primer and ford corporate blue will cover it as I dont care for chrome but wasnt going to pay $7 more for a black crinkle finish when the chrome was already cheapest at $11.

Needless to say I saved more money while using up the last $50 on one of my $100 gift cards from christmas. Still got one more $100 gift card to go.

the two fittings that I have pricing for is from summit at $15.99 for the 670343 and $35.99 for the 650320.

I got those two items and the proform 302-290 block off plate for a total of $62.97 with tax. I saved $0.80 on the 670343 fitting as there was a individual selling them cheaper than amazon was but it wasnt shipping via prime but it was still free shipping. Throw in the $50 credit I had on amazon with my gift card it only cost me $12.97.

So all I have left on my list right now for the engine besides the 3G conversion I still need to get parts for but still trying to find a 95A 3G with the wide 8" pivot mount. I only have to pick up the following.

SUM-681250 : x3 Lap join 2 1/2" band clamps - Exhaust

754166ERL : VaporGuard Hose end 3/8" to 45* -6AN (this one is only if the 45* one I have currently looks like it will give me a better angle for the hose)

GF822 : AC Delco Fuel Filter 00-04 corvette

752066ERL : VaporGuard hose 3/8 x 20ft

F14B : Spectra 16.5 gallon saddletank '85 F150

FG346 : Spectra Sending Unit '85 F150 (going to look up the part number some other day for a NOS unit)

HP4500 : Standard fuel pump pigtail '85 F150

PB1084ST : Dayco/Powerbond Street Performance Balancer 50oz. (This one has laser etched timing marks including a 50* btdc mark which will make life easy for me if I ever upgrade to the Holley timing control)

GSS342BX : Walbro Electric fuel pump

16-111 : 3"x15" HydraMat pickup

Looks like I have drastically cut my list down though since I increased my list size by deciding to go fuel injection.

Once I get the engine built so I know compression ratio and all that I can mail off my mustang distributor to the guy up in Washington state so I can have him recurve the distributor, I really want to give him as accurate specifications as I can when it comes to compression and displacement. I also still need to send my headers out to this coater out towards Austin that can ceramic coat them, Im thinking about going black now, I was looking at the Zinc finish that many restoration people go with for the OE cast iron look but the photos show a greenish greyish color and I just dont know how that would look on my shorty headers.

Other than that the fuel tank would be one of the last things I get so I can drop it off at Texas Autogear to show him what I want done to it. I rather let my new motor sit for a few days/weeks to let the Eastwood 2K paint to fully cure before installation.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

On a side note one thing I thought about doing was mounting the mechanical fuel pump but leave the eccentric off and just hook the EFI lines to the fuel pump to give the illusion of a carb setup. I saw a guy do that on a chevrolet but its easier for him as he can simply pull the push rod out and reinstall if if he ever wants to go back. For us ford guys we cant do that as we have to disassemble the front of the motor to get to the fuel pump eccentric.

Plus I dont know if the mechanical fuel pump would provide a restriction and slow flow down or if it would create a pressure spike before the throttlebody dumping fuel back to the tank and the injectors not getting the proper fuel pressure.

I did honestly think of strapping the rubber fuel line with the metal hardline that I will cap off and then run it up the front of the motor like the OE fuel pump would have but I think it would be better to just run the fuel line down the back of the motor over the transmission bell housing and then to the driverside frame.

[Gary Lewis]

Another update, I added more to my purchase from amazon cause the paper note I had the part numbers wrote down on that I keep at my pc for ordering, I had the wrong part number, 670344 wrote down when it should be 670343 for the fuel pressure take off in -6AN in black. Amazon does have this so I purchased the Russell Analog Fuel pressure gauge 0-100 psi 650320 and the Russell Proclassic fuel pressure fitting 670343.

I also picked up a chrome proform ford oval fuel pump block off that I will see how well Eastwood 2K engine primer and ford corporate blue will cover it as I dont care for chrome but wasnt going to pay $7 more for a black crinkle finish when the chrome was already cheapest at $11.

Needless to say I saved more money while using up the last $50 on one of my $100 gift cards from christmas. Still got one more $100 gift card to go.

the two fittings that I have pricing for is from summit at $15.99 for the 670343 and $35.99 for the 650320.

I got those two items and the proform 302-290 block off plate for a total of $62.97 with tax. I saved $0.80 on the 670343 fitting as there was a individual selling them cheaper than amazon was but it wasnt shipping via prime but it was still free shipping. Throw in the $50 credit I had on amazon with my gift card it only cost me $12.97.

So all I have left on my list right now for the engine besides the 3G conversion I still need to get parts for but still trying to find a 95A 3G with the wide 8" pivot mount. I only have to pick up the following.

SUM-681250 : x3 Lap join 2 1/2" band clamps - Exhaust

754166ERL : VaporGuard Hose end 3/8" to 45* -6AN (this one is only if the 45* one I have currently looks like it will give me a better angle for the hose)

GF822 : AC Delco Fuel Filter 00-04 corvette

752066ERL : VaporGuard hose 3/8 x 20ft

F14B : Spectra 16.5 gallon saddletank '85 F150

FG346 : Spectra Sending Unit '85 F150 (going to look up the part number some other day for a NOS unit)

HP4500 : Standard fuel pump pigtail '85 F150

PB1084ST : Dayco/Powerbond Street Performance Balancer 50oz. (This one has laser etched timing marks including a 50* btdc mark which will make life easy for me if I ever upgrade to the Holley timing control)

GSS342BX : Walbro Electric fuel pump

16-111 : 3"x15" HydraMat pickup

Looks like I have drastically cut my list down though since I increased my list size by deciding to go fuel injection.

Once I get the engine built so I know compression ratio and all that I can mail off my mustang distributor to the guy up in Washington state so I can have him recurve the distributor, I really want to give him as accurate specifications as I can when it comes to compression and displacement. I also still need to send my headers out to this coater out towards Austin that can ceramic coat them, Im thinking about going black now, I was looking at the Zinc finish that many restoration people go with for the OE cast iron look but the photos show a greenish greyish color and I just dont know how that would look on my shorty headers.

Other than that the fuel tank would be one of the last things I get so I can drop it off at Texas Autogear to show him what I want done to it. I rather let my new motor sit for a few days/weeks to let the Eastwood 2K paint to fully cure before installation.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

On a side note one thing I thought about doing was mounting the mechanical fuel pump but leave the eccentric off and just hook the EFI lines to the fuel pump to give the illusion of a carb setup. I saw a guy do that on a chevrolet but its easier for him as he can simply pull the push rod out and reinstall if if he ever wants to go back. For us ford guys we cant do that as we have to disassemble the front of the motor to get to the fuel pump eccentric.

Plus I dont know if the mechanical fuel pump would provide a restriction and slow flow down or if it would create a pressure spike before the throttlebody dumping fuel back to the tank and the injectors not getting the proper fuel pressure.

I did honestly think of strapping the rubber fuel line with the metal hardline that I will cap off and then run it up the front of the motor like the OE fuel pump would have but I think it would be better to just run the fuel line down the back of the motor over the transmission bell housing and then to the driverside frame.

You are REALLY into this. I can't wait to see what it'll be like. I don't know what to say but "Keep up the good work!"

 

[Rusty_S85]

You are REALLY into this. I can't wait to see what it'll be like. I don't know what to say but "Keep up the good work!"

lol Yep I am over thinking it all as I want to have it where it will be a smooth installation and when I get the transmission I want to be able to pull my old transmission out myself and install the new one without having to worry about a fuel hose laying in the way or wiring. Im going to snag a clamp from work and see if I can locate a OE style bell housing bolt with a stud so I can bolt the wiring to. Or I might say screw it and clamp it to the back of the driverside and passengerside head. Will need one on the passengerside head to hold the 02 sensor wire as it will be connected on the passengerside for bank one. But I am wondering if it would be better to install the 02 sensor in the Y of the Y pipe so it can read both banks. Holley acts like they want it to be just one bank reading but not sure if that is set in stone for proper operation. If I put it in the Y pipe it would be easier to get to from under the truck if I ever have to replace the 02 sensor.

Air cleaner I havent done anything on that front, I still am keeping an eye out for some aircleaners on Ebay, there is a used one for a 5.8 HO with one snorkel but as stated above those are larger so my 302 aircleaner lid would not fit it unless the black lid from my NOS cleaner would fit I dont know if it does then that would be good for me as I rather have the vacuum ports ontop of the aircleaner lid for the fresh air door.

[Gary Lewis]

lol Yep I am over thinking it all as I want to have it where it will be a smooth installation and when I get the transmission I want to be able to pull my old transmission out myself and install the new one without having to worry about a fuel hose laying in the way or wiring. Im going to snag a clamp from work and see if I can locate a OE style bell housing bolt with a stud so I can bolt the wiring to. Or I might say screw it and clamp it to the back of the driverside and passengerside head. Will need one on the passengerside head to hold the 02 sensor wire as it will be connected on the passengerside for bank one. But I am wondering if it would be better to install the 02 sensor in the Y of the Y pipe so it can read both banks. Holley acts like they want it to be just one bank reading but not sure if that is set in stone for proper operation. If I put it in the Y pipe it would be easier to get to from under the truck if I ever have to replace the 02 sensor.

Air cleaner I havent done anything on that front, I still am keeping an eye out for some aircleaners on Ebay, there is a used one for a 5.8 HO with one snorkel but as stated above those are larger so my 302 aircleaner lid would not fit it unless the black lid from my NOS cleaner would fit I dont know if it does then that would be good for me as I rather have the vacuum ports ontop of the aircleaner lid for the fresh air door.

I was told to run two O2 sensors instead of placing one in the y-pipe. I don't remember who told me that, but I tend to think it was one of the guys from Core Tuning. Their thinking was that the two banks will be running differently and by mixing the signal you don't get good results.

[Rusty_S85]

I was told to run two O2 sensors instead of placing one in the y-pipe. I don't remember who told me that, but I tend to think it was one of the guys from Core Tuning. Their thinking was that the two banks will be running differently and by mixing the signal you don't get good results.

Correct but with aftermarket systems most of them are like Holley`s only have one O2 sensor and they suggest placing it with in 3 to 5 inches of where the header pipes merge.

[Rusty_S85]

Correct but with aftermarket systems most of them are like Holley`s only have one O2 sensor and they suggest placing it with in 3 to 5 inches of where the header pipes merge.

Well I think I have a slightly different idea that I am playing around with.

My initial plan was to just run a single 3/8 vapor guard hose from the corvette fuel filter/pressure regulator down the frame rail then across to the transmission and up the transmission to the fuel injection system.

Well a guy showed me how he did his with bent metal lines and part of me always liked the idea of that, not only would it look stock but it would also stop quite a bit of risk of hose failure since the hose would be short pieces.

I was browsing and found that Inline tube sells a 3/8" stainless steel fuel line for a 80 - 86 F150 long bed truck. I know my '82 is a short bed flareside but I wont be hooking it up exactly as OE cause I need to place a inline filter. So my line of thought is use the hardline from the OE location at the fuel pump back to just in front of the tank and cut the hardline. Then decide if I want to use hardline to AN compression fittings or invest in the AN turret and die set for my flare tool from eastwood and find some AN tube nuts and can do it this way. Then all I would have would be rubber hose from the hardline to the fuel filter and from the fuel filter to the tank and a short piece from the OE fuel pump location to a custom bent 3/8" hardline at the engine to allow for flex.

Part of me thinks it would be better and it would save me the money on having to buy 20 ft of hose for $100.95 and I could buy just the 10 ft length of hose for $50 and have well over enough. Problem is though the hose end fittings I got some of them I wouldnt be able to use anymore. I also would have to invest in the AN flare turret/die for my flare tool from eastwood and the cost of that is $100.

So $55 for the stainless steel hardline, $100 for the turret die set then the tube nuts which I dont know where you get those at. But so far that is $155 more on my bill all in the name to save $50 by going with 10ft of hose vs 20ft and running it all in hose.

This is the hardline I was looking at and part of me thinks it would be cool but part of me also think its extra work and extra cost that wont provide me any real benefit.

https://www.inlinetube.com/products/sfrf8001

[85lebaront2]

Correct but with aftermarket systems most of them are like Holley`s only have one O2 sensor and they suggest placing it with in 3 to 5 inches of where the header pipes merge.

The reason Gary and I both run dual O2 sensors, our EFI systems are sequential, meaning the injectors are individually fired in the firing order sequence. If O2 sensor 11 (standardized location designation) detects a lean mixture the EEC can increase the pulse width on that bank (1-4) and for rich decrease it. For a TBI or bank fired system, a single sensor at the confluence of the two banks is adequate. I have my wideband where the stock single sensor for a bank fired system would be.

Ford truck engines were all bank fired prior to 1994, 1994 302s with automatic trans and 1995 300 and 351s are the same. The sequential truck systems are easy to identify, they are all MAF systems. On the 460, only 1996/7 California models were sequential and they are EEC-V rather than EEC-IV systems and have misfire detectors and a pressure feedback EGR system along with a 3rd O2 sensor and a catalyst overheat sensor.