Fuel Injection upgrade

[Rusty_S85]

My father would have said "Without bad luck you'd have no luck at all!" Man, every time you turn around you are having problems.

But I don't think you'll have RFI as the shell/cover of the coil should stop any radiation. And the vacuum connections look good, as does the wiring. So you are making progress, albeit somewhat slowly.

I think it's the economy, the shut down and everything that has happened the last couple of years that has these businesses taking the lazy route and using it as excuses for why.

Like this dealership with the D7 alternator arm I ordered so I could modify it to work with the 3G alternator upgrade then I can put my original alternator arm up in the off chance I ever decide to do a factory stock restoration down the road. But right now, I can't get word out of them to find out what is going on and they were the only ones that had the 40 - 60A adjustment arm for a 302 but its listed as for a '86 Bronco, but the D9UZ-10145-A part number they have is showing up as fitting 80/85 F-U100/250 with a 40/60A alternator or an 86 E150/250 with all alternator outputs. So, I am hopeful this should fit with my OE brackets and then leave me with just hammering the curve out of it and then figuring out what 3G alternator to go with and mocking it up.

On the ceramic coating I have to admit I haven't really been aggressive on it because I am still waiting on my tax refund which they told me last month was going to be yet another 90 days and that is what I been waiting on to fund the ceramic coating of the headers. Plus, I really haven't made a decision on what color to go with so I might just say screw it and go with standard black especially if I finally get a pricing out of Jet Hot and I go with them seeing as only black or silver is the only colors for thermal barrier ceramic coating and the other colors are just a topcoat with no thermal barrier capability.

I also need to figure out on the air cleaner as well. I'm thinking about using some silver solder and just fixing my split and broken aluminum one because I just can't justify the price these fools on Ebay is wanting for OE air cleaners. Cheapest one I found was listed for a 460 big block truck and has that scoop on the back side for extra air when you nail the throttle from what I understand but they want over $200. If I am going to pay that much, I would just invest in one of those ducted air cleaners sold on the aftermarket in the $500 - $1000 price range. I already tossed out the 5.0 dual snorkel idea a while back since I would have to run the PCV valve on the driver side and I really didn't want to switch all that around as its already a pain when I go to add oil due to the height of my truck with the 31x10.50-15 tires which will only get higher when I replace the worn out leaf springs in the back and replace the coil springs in the front with a oe spec set with a 1.5" increase in height to level the truck out with the new leaf springs.

But I am making some progress, I did purchase the plastic chinese made fuse/relay box and I did undo the Sniper harness to see how they had it all wired up and modified my wiring schematic to plan out my wiring of the box. I just need to get the connectors, the bulk wiring and start making the harnesses up and I dont know if I ever posted the new schematic but below is the new schematic and I also isolated the EFI circuits onto its own ANL fused circuit, isolated from the other ANL fused circuit that provides power to Fuses 1 through 8 that covers headlights, driving lights, AC compressor, and future upgrade with roll bar lights if I decide to do that. I might have to toss out my idea of using the 100w Halogen daylighters and go with their LED Daylighters cause I can only run one V belt and even with a soft start regulator I dont believe I would be able to keep my amperage under 100A with two 100W driving lights, four 100W roll bar lights, and everything else on the truck from the EFI, to the Radio, to the CB, to the AC powered up. Only draw back is I cant omit my driving lights cause they are 100W driving lights wired into my highbeam circuit and KC doesnt offer a LED driving light that looks vintage looking, unless I go with the 6" Daylighter which can only be had in black but the base makes it stand so tall I dont know if it will clear my grill guard top bar. Plus those LED Daylighters are $250 a piece and I would need six total if I do four on the roll bar and two on the grill guard.

Well no email still from Jacky Jones Ford also known as OEM Ford Parts. Their website doesnt list a phone number just a message form to contact them. I punched their address in on google and found their phone number as well as reviews. Seems like a few people had the same issues as this with no contact and no parts shipped or received. But they arent recent one was from earlier this year and the rest were from 3 and 4 years ago.

Im going to give the number a call tomorrow at 8am when they are listed as being open and will call multiple times till I get a hold of a person to find out what is going on with this order and my alternator bracket. I may end up still calling my bank and having them reverse the charge as fraudulent as they havent shipped the part out and its going working on being 2 months this month with no part that I paid for.

I did punch in the part number to see if there was any other listing to just buy from right now and just cancel that order and only hits I got was OEM Ford Parts and a bunch of other dealerships. One name stood out Tasca Ford which doesnt give a phone number on their site either but I sent them a message if they had the part and if it would ship asap. I might try calling up the local Ford dealership tomorrow and giving them the part number that we use at work and see if they can possibly locate me the bracket and just ship it to the shop.

Im starting to get a bit fed up with this cause if I had this bracket I could mock up the 7" ear to ear 1G alternator I have see how it fits and then finalize my decision on which 3G to get. Seems like I am still leaning towards the 1990 - 1993 Taurus 3.8L 3G alternator. I can get a brand new Remy or AC Delco for $162.84 from Rock Auto with shipping and tax and no core charge.

At least if I did that I could continue on with seeing what thread pitch the alternator is, retaping or possibly drilling out and using helicoil for steel threads to reuse the OE bolt with its serrated washer edge. At least more progress while waiting on my distributor and could start figuring out charge cable and hook up of the 3G to prep it for installation in the truck.

~Update~

Well I went to get the payment information so I can call up tomorrow and file a fraud charge on said item tomorrow and wouldnt you know I checked my bank, I checked paypal credit, and I checked my credit card, there is not one charge for $33.73 from may 21, 2022 to today so I never had the money taken out for the part but will have to keep up on it so tomorrow I will call up the local dealership see if they can get me the D9UZ-10145-A which should be for my 302 with a 40 - 60 Amp alternator which should work with the 3G upgrade and if they can get it for me under $30 I will just go ahead and order it from the local dealership. Otherwise I guess I will wait for Tasca to respond to my email but I dont think I will deal with them because it seems they are setup the same way as OEM and the others that are just a online portal to sell parts that they dont possibly physically have with no phone number to contact them on their site just a online contact form.

[Gary Lewis]

Well no email still from Jacky Jones Ford also known as OEM Ford Parts. Their website doesnt list a phone number just a message form to contact them. I punched their address in on google and found their phone number as well as reviews. Seems like a few people had the same issues as this with no contact and no parts shipped or received. But they arent recent one was from earlier this year and the rest were from 3 and 4 years ago.

Im going to give the number a call tomorrow at 8am when they are listed as being open and will call multiple times till I get a hold of a person to find out what is going on with this order and my alternator bracket. I may end up still calling my bank and having them reverse the charge as fraudulent as they havent shipped the part out and its going working on being 2 months this month with no part that I paid for.

I did punch in the part number to see if there was any other listing to just buy from right now and just cancel that order and only hits I got was OEM Ford Parts and a bunch of other dealerships. One name stood out Tasca Ford which doesnt give a phone number on their site either but I sent them a message if they had the part and if it would ship asap. I might try calling up the local Ford dealership tomorrow and giving them the part number that we use at work and see if they can possibly locate me the bracket and just ship it to the shop.

Im starting to get a bit fed up with this cause if I had this bracket I could mock up the 7" ear to ear 1G alternator I have see how it fits and then finalize my decision on which 3G to get. Seems like I am still leaning towards the 1990 - 1993 Taurus 3.8L 3G alternator. I can get a brand new Remy or AC Delco for $162.84 from Rock Auto with shipping and tax and no core charge.

At least if I did that I could continue on with seeing what thread pitch the alternator is, retaping or possibly drilling out and using helicoil for steel threads to reuse the OE bolt with its serrated washer edge. At least more progress while waiting on my distributor and could start figuring out charge cable and hook up of the 3G to prep it for installation in the truck.

~Update~

Well I went to get the payment information so I can call up tomorrow and file a fraud charge on said item tomorrow and wouldnt you know I checked my bank, I checked paypal credit, and I checked my credit card, there is not one charge for $33.73 from may 21, 2022 to today so I never had the money taken out for the part but will have to keep up on it so tomorrow I will call up the local dealership see if they can get me the D9UZ-10145-A which should be for my 302 with a 40 - 60 Amp alternator which should work with the 3G upgrade and if they can get it for me under $30 I will just go ahead and order it from the local dealership. Otherwise I guess I will wait for Tasca to respond to my email but I dont think I will deal with them because it seems they are setup the same way as OEM and the others that are just a online portal to sell parts that they dont possibly physically have with no phone number to contact them on their site just a online contact form.

Good luck! But I've had great luck using the online form to the Ford dealerships. They've always gotten right back and shipped quickly.

[85lebaront2]

Well no email still from Jacky Jones Ford also known as OEM Ford Parts. Their website doesnt list a phone number just a message form to contact them. I punched their address in on google and found their phone number as well as reviews. Seems like a few people had the same issues as this with no contact and no parts shipped or received. But they arent recent one was from earlier this year and the rest were from 3 and 4 years ago.

Im going to give the number a call tomorrow at 8am when they are listed as being open and will call multiple times till I get a hold of a person to find out what is going on with this order and my alternator bracket. I may end up still calling my bank and having them reverse the charge as fraudulent as they havent shipped the part out and its going working on being 2 months this month with no part that I paid for.

I did punch in the part number to see if there was any other listing to just buy from right now and just cancel that order and only hits I got was OEM Ford Parts and a bunch of other dealerships. One name stood out Tasca Ford which doesnt give a phone number on their site either but I sent them a message if they had the part and if it would ship asap. I might try calling up the local Ford dealership tomorrow and giving them the part number that we use at work and see if they can possibly locate me the bracket and just ship it to the shop.

Im starting to get a bit fed up with this cause if I had this bracket I could mock up the 7" ear to ear 1G alternator I have see how it fits and then finalize my decision on which 3G to get. Seems like I am still leaning towards the 1990 - 1993 Taurus 3.8L 3G alternator. I can get a brand new Remy or AC Delco for $162.84 from Rock Auto with shipping and tax and no core charge.

At least if I did that I could continue on with seeing what thread pitch the alternator is, retaping or possibly drilling out and using helicoil for steel threads to reuse the OE bolt with its serrated washer edge. At least more progress while waiting on my distributor and could start figuring out charge cable and hook up of the 3G to prep it for installation in the truck.

~Update~

Well I went to get the payment information so I can call up tomorrow and file a fraud charge on said item tomorrow and wouldnt you know I checked my bank, I checked paypal credit, and I checked my credit card, there is not one charge for $33.73 from may 21, 2022 to today so I never had the money taken out for the part but will have to keep up on it so tomorrow I will call up the local dealership see if they can get me the D9UZ-10145-A which should be for my 302 with a 40 - 60 Amp alternator which should work with the 3G upgrade and if they can get it for me under $30 I will just go ahead and order it from the local dealership. Otherwise I guess I will wait for Tasca to respond to my email but I dont think I will deal with them because it seems they are setup the same way as OEM and the others that are just a online portal to sell parts that they dont possibly physically have with no phone number to contact them on their site just a online contact form.

Rusty, I have had excellent results with AutoNation Ford https://parts.autonationfordwhitebearlake.com/

You might try them. They were formerly Tousley Ford.

Went through a royal PITA with the battery tray for the 2009 Flex, Ford's illustrations show only the mid 2009 and up parts and even with the VIN it didn't get caught. Back and forth messages with the parts manager and got it resolved, wrong parts returned for full credit.

Good luck with it!

[Rusty_S85]

Rusty, I have had excellent results with AutoNation Ford https://parts.autonationfordwhitebearlake.com/

You might try them. They were formerly Tousley Ford.

Went through a royal PITA with the battery tray for the 2009 Flex, Ford's illustrations show only the mid 2009 and up parts and even with the VIN it didn't get caught. Back and forth messages with the parts manager and got it resolved, wrong parts returned for full credit.

Good luck with it!

Tasca Ford replied to me this morning, they said there is a national back order on that alternator bracket and there is no sign of when they will come back into stock.

I havent called the local dealership but will check with them and see if they can get me one locally. Otherwise I will be forced to take the original alternator bracket and modify it even though I really want to modify a new one and keep the original put up.

[85lebaront2]

Tasca Ford replied to me this morning, they said there is a national back order on that alternator bracket and there is no sign of when they will come back into stock.

I havent called the local dealership but will check with them and see if they can get me one locally. Otherwise I will be forced to take the original alternator bracket and modify it even though I really want to modify a new one and keep the original put up.

What specific application do you need it from? My favorite salvage yard owner is in Ft. Lauderdale FL right now with his granddaughter at the AAU Karate championships. He might have something.

[Rusty_S85]

What specific application do you need it from? My favorite salvage yard owner is in Ft. Lauderdale FL right now with his granddaughter at the AAU Karate championships. He might have something.

One im looking for is a new D9UZ-10145-A alternator bracket that is supposed to fit all Ford Trucks 80 - 85 with 40A or 60A alternators.

I didnt get to call up the local dealership today as I got side tracked on a project at work. I think I might be able to get one locally if not I might just take and take my original one hammer it flat and modify it and then buy the D9UZ-10145-A to put up.

[Jake Papageorge]

Forgive me if I missed it in all the responses, but does your truck have duel fuel tanks? I was looking at the instructions for the sniper stealth and it appears to use a fuel pressure regulator that has a return rail. How are you going to address fuel return with duel tanks?

Also, have you considered using a Delco 10SI or a CS130 as a replacement alternator? I have a 120 amp cs130 small case on my 85 and it works great! The change over took all of a half hour. Hell, it took longer to get the old unit off than getting the CS130 on! LOL!!!

 

[Rusty_S85]

Forgive me if I missed it in all the responses, but does your truck have duel fuel tanks? I was looking at the instructions for the sniper stealth and it appears to use a fuel pressure regulator that has a return rail. How are you going to address fuel return with duel tanks?

Also, have you considered using a Delco 10SI or a CS130 as a replacement alternator? I have a 120 amp cs130 small case on my 85 and it works great! The change over took all of a half hour. Hell, it took longer to get the old unit off than getting the CS130 on! LOL!!!

No, I have a flareside with a single 16 gallon saddle tank. I have played around with the thought of adding a auxiliary aft tank but just couldnt figure out how I would want to go about setting it up. For example fueling was my first issue, how do I fuel the aft tank. I could get another fuel tank door and cut the fiberglass fender and graft it on but for me it just looks odd and I cant bring myself to cut a hard to find fiberglass fender. Then there is BedWood.com where I will be getting the bed wood for my truck, they have a kit that hinges an entire board that you can lift up and access a under the bed filler. This would be a great idea but then there is the problem of if I have something in the bed I cant lift the whole plank up to access the filler. The second issue I had was plumbing, I could use a switching valve and set it up like factory but then that requires trying to locate a heat only climate panel with the dual tank switch and I bought a NOS heat only climate panel a few years back and installed it. One idea I had was plumbing the auxiliary aft tank with a toggle switch under the dash that would use a in tank pump to transfer fuel from the auxiliary aft tank to the primary saddle tank which feeds the engine. But then there were issues with this, how do I ensure there is an automatic shut off to prevent the aft pump over filling the saddle tank.

I pretty much ruled adding an auxiliary tank out on my truck but I have installed numerous snipers at work with dual tanks that were functional. On GM applications such as the ever popular square body trucks, I get an EFI switching valve with the 7 pin terminal I believe it is and throw a pair of Walbro 255 LPH pumps in the tank. It essentially works like the late model setup just instead of operating on TBI pressures it is now operating on EFI pressures. The new GM switching valves you buy are EFI rated to 70 PSI so it would be fine setting up like this. For Ford, I havent done one but the other guy at the shop did one on a I think it was a '85 F150 with a I6 and a 2V feed back carb with a TFI distributor. It had dual tanks and I believe they utilized the OE switching valve but they mounted the EFI pump that mounts on the frame on that one. I would have bought the later model tanks with the EFI senders and put the pump in the tank.

That is what I will be doing with my truck, an '85 - '86 16 gallon saddle tank with the OE style sender with the low pressure lift pump tossed for a Walbro 255 LPH high pressure pump. I also have plans to break some metal to install in the bottom of the saddle tank to create baffling to slow the fuel down and try and keep as much of it in the sump as possible so I can run my tank down to E and not worry about fuel slosh causing performance issues at 1/2 a tank. I also have a Corvette fuel filter with built in 60 psi pressure regulator. I will be mounting this on the frame in front of the saddle tank so the return line will run from the filter back to the tank. I may custom bend some hardlines in 3/8" stainless to keep the rubber hose length short but I think running rubber from sender to the filter would be best. The frame how ever up to the engine I found Inline Tube has a 3/8" long wheelbase hardline in stainless steel, it should be the same from the engine back to about where the cab door is which is where I will be cutting the line off and I will rent a quick release flare tool to flare the end in a male quick release so the Corvette filter will snap into the hardline. I will AN flare the end up by the engine and make a AN hose to go from the hardline on the frame to the hardline I bent for my engine itself.

The Sniper 4150 Stealth does not have a fuel pressure regulator unlike the standard Sniper, the two fittings on the Sniper 4150 Stealth are pressure feed lines for the two front and two rear injectors. I ended up taking the supplied #6 AN fuel lines off and went with short stubbier ones so I could mount the DS II coil in the OE location on the intake manifold. I wanted to do all hardlines directly to these stubby #6 AN fittings but I could not get a bend tight enough to clear the DS II coil so I ended up using the supplied #6 black Tee to get the clearance I needed. But everything you see hardline wise is in 3/8" stainless steel tripled annealed from Inline tube that I got as bulk coiled tubing. It is also all AN flared and is all pressure lines. I also have the hardline clamped to the rear fuel pump bolt with a 3/8" insulated zinc plated steel clamp. I bent the hardline at a 90* to hopefully clear under the power steering pump and I placed another #6 AN flare with tube sleeve and nut. This would be where my male #6 AN hose end will screw into and ill be using hopefully a short piece of Earls Vapor Guard EFI hose.

Below are some close ups of the 3/8" stainless steel hardline I bent for the engine as I didnt want rubber fuel hose like so many do.

Close up of the routing of the hardline around the Distributor and down towards the fuel pump mount.

Close up of the mounting of the hardline to the rear fuel pump bolt and the 90* bend under the power steering pump. Currently there is a #6 pressure port fitting threaded in with a hose end threaded onto it to not lose it. That will be a hose with a male #6 hose end straight to the hardline. The fuel pressure port I am not sure I may use it as an adapter on the frame hardline at the rubber hose or I may have it back by the fuel pressure regulator/filter.

Initially I will use a mechanical pressure gauge to keep tabs on the fuel pressure if there is a problem. If I can get Dakota Digital to release their RTX Retro cluster series for our trucks like they did for the previous gen Ford trucks, I will be installing a fuel pressure sensor and buying a pressure module from Dakota Digital so I can view fuel pressure in the dash cluster as well as wire up a warning if the fuel pressure goes outside of normal specs of 55 - 65 psi.

On the alternator I will be going with 3G, my issue is finalizing which way to go. I hope that the 3G regulators like my NOS Motorcraft one wont care if its on a 95A or a 130A alternator but I am looking at the 130A alternator mainly due to its extra cooling and potential to put more amps out at lower speeds. Realistically 95A is what I should probably go with since I am running a single V belt but with my NOS Motorcraft regulator having a 10 second ramp up for the soft start function I should be fine with a single V belt on a 130A alternator long as I dont push the output past 95 amps which I dont think I would unless I throw four more 100W KC halogen auxiliary lights on a rollbar like I am wanting to do. KC now how ever has their Daylighters with LED bulbs now which I probably would go with if I go that route.

[Rusty_S85]

Forgive me if I missed it in all the responses, but does your truck have duel fuel tanks? I was looking at the instructions for the sniper stealth and it appears to use a fuel pressure regulator that has a return rail. How are you going to address fuel return with duel tanks?

Also, have you considered using a Delco 10SI or a CS130 as a replacement alternator? I have a 120 amp cs130 small case on my 85 and it works great! The change over took all of a half hour. Hell, it took longer to get the old unit off than getting the CS130 on! LOL!!!

No, I have a flareside with a single 16 gallon saddle tank. I have played around with the thought of adding a auxiliary aft tank but just couldnt figure out how I would want to go about setting it up. For example fueling was my first issue, how do I fuel the aft tank. I could get another fuel tank door and cut the fiberglass fender and graft it on but for me it just looks odd and I cant bring myself to cut a hard to find fiberglass fender. Then there is BedWood.com where I will be getting the bed wood for my truck, they have a kit that hinges an entire board that you can lift up and access a under the bed filler. This would be a great idea but then there is the problem of if I have something in the bed I cant lift the whole plank up to access the filler. The second issue I had was plumbing, I could use a switching valve and set it up like factory but then that requires trying to locate a heat only climate panel with the dual tank switch and I bought a NOS heat only climate panel a few years back and installed it. One idea I had was plumbing the auxiliary aft tank with a toggle switch under the dash that would use a in tank pump to transfer fuel from the auxiliary aft tank to the primary saddle tank which feeds the engine. But then there were issues with this, how do I ensure there is an automatic shut off to prevent the aft pump over filling the saddle tank.

I pretty much ruled adding an auxiliary tank out on my truck but I have installed numerous snipers at work with dual tanks that were functional. On GM applications such as the ever popular square body trucks, I get an EFI switching valve with the 7 pin terminal I believe it is and throw a pair of Walbro 255 LPH pumps in the tank. It essentially works like the late model setup just instead of operating on TBI pressures it is now operating on EFI pressures. The new GM switching valves you buy are EFI rated to 70 PSI so it would be fine setting up like this. For Ford, I havent done one but the other guy at the shop did one on a I think it was a '85 F150 with a I6 and a 2V feed back carb with a TFI distributor. It had dual tanks and I believe they utilized the OE switching valve but they mounted the EFI pump that mounts on the frame on that one. I would have bought the later model tanks with the EFI senders and put the pump in the tank.

That is what I will be doing with my truck, an '85 - '86 16 gallon saddle tank with the OE style sender with the low pressure lift pump tossed for a Walbro 255 LPH high pressure pump. I also have plans to break some metal to install in the bottom of the saddle tank to create baffling to slow the fuel down and try and keep as much of it in the sump as possible so I can run my tank down to E and not worry about fuel slosh causing performance issues at 1/2 a tank. I also have a Corvette fuel filter with built in 60 psi pressure regulator. I will be mounting this on the frame in front of the saddle tank so the return line will run from the filter back to the tank. I may custom bend some hardlines in 3/8" stainless to keep the rubber hose length short but I think running rubber from sender to the filter would be best. The frame how ever up to the engine I found Inline Tube has a 3/8" long wheelbase hardline in stainless steel, it should be the same from the engine back to about where the cab door is which is where I will be cutting the line off and I will rent a quick release flare tool to flare the end in a male quick release so the Corvette filter will snap into the hardline. I will AN flare the end up by the engine and make a AN hose to go from the hardline on the frame to the hardline I bent for my engine itself.

The Sniper 4150 Stealth does not have a fuel pressure regulator unlike the standard Sniper, the two fittings on the Sniper 4150 Stealth are pressure feed lines for the two front and two rear injectors. I ended up taking the supplied #6 AN fuel lines off and went with short stubbier ones so I could mount the DS II coil in the OE location on the intake manifold. I wanted to do all hardlines directly to these stubby #6 AN fittings but I could not get a bend tight enough to clear the DS II coil so I ended up using the supplied #6 black Tee to get the clearance I needed. But everything you see hardline wise is in 3/8" stainless steel tripled annealed from Inline tube that I got as bulk coiled tubing. It is also all AN flared and is all pressure lines. I also have the hardline clamped to the rear fuel pump bolt with a 3/8" insulated zinc plated steel clamp. I bent the hardline at a 90* to hopefully clear under the power steering pump and I placed another #6 AN flare with tube sleeve and nut. This would be where my male #6 AN hose end will screw into and ill be using hopefully a short piece of Earls Vapor Guard EFI hose.

Below are some close ups of the 3/8" stainless steel hardline I bent for the engine as I didnt want rubber fuel hose like so many do.

Close up of the routing of the hardline around the Distributor and down towards the fuel pump mount.

Close up of the mounting of the hardline to the rear fuel pump bolt and the 90* bend under the power steering pump. Currently there is a #6 pressure port fitting threaded in with a hose end threaded onto it to not lose it. That will be a hose with a male #6 hose end straight to the hardline. The fuel pressure port I am not sure I may use it as an adapter on the frame hardline at the rubber hose or I may have it back by the fuel pressure regulator/filter.

Initially I will use a mechanical pressure gauge to keep tabs on the fuel pressure if there is a problem. If I can get Dakota Digital to release their RTX Retro cluster series for our trucks like they did for the previous gen Ford trucks, I will be installing a fuel pressure sensor and buying a pressure module from Dakota Digital so I can view fuel pressure in the dash cluster as well as wire up a warning if the fuel pressure goes outside of normal specs of 55 - 65 psi.

On the alternator I will be going with 3G, my issue is finalizing which way to go. I hope that the 3G regulators like my NOS Motorcraft one wont care if its on a 95A or a 130A alternator but I am looking at the 130A alternator mainly due to its extra cooling and potential to put more amps out at lower speeds. Realistically 95A is what I should probably go with since I am running a single V belt but with my NOS Motorcraft regulator having a 10 second ramp up for the soft start function I should be fine with a single V belt on a 130A alternator long as I dont push the output past 95 amps which I dont think I would unless I throw four more 100W KC halogen auxiliary lights on a rollbar like I am wanting to do. KC now how ever has their Daylighters with LED bulbs now which I probably would go with if I go that route.

Been on the hunt for air cleaners for a while now. Was first looking at the dual snorkel Mustang air filters but couldnt swing the prices they go for. So I been looking at the 5.8L HO air cleaners but havent found a reasonably priced one.

So now I am back to looking at the dual snorkel Mustang air cleaner with the hopes that I might be able to retain the breather on the driver side with some tweaking. Found one for sale without lid for $75 but the guy wont ship it, trying to convince him to ship. If not I got another three on ebay that I am keeping an eye on for the better part of a year, one of them was priced at $600 but is now down to $275 with free shipping which I feel is still too high. There are a couple I found that are priced at $135 and $150 after shipping.

Looks like I will be just going with the dual snorkel and modifying my spare plastic duct to fit on the driver side. Also means I will be hunting down a 1985 Mustang Saleen air cleaner lid that is in chrome since I know polishing the aluminum would require a lot of up keep.

Aside from that I am trying to find the difference between the 1980 - 1985 302 dipstick tubes and the 86 - 88 dipstick tubes and if they are interchangeable.

[Gary Lewis]

Been on the hunt for air cleaners for a while now. Was first looking at the dual snorkel Mustang air filters but couldnt swing the prices they go for. So I been looking at the 5.8L HO air cleaners but havent found a reasonably priced one.

So now I am back to looking at the dual snorkel Mustang air cleaner with the hopes that I might be able to retain the breather on the driver side with some tweaking. Found one for sale without lid for $75 but the guy wont ship it, trying to convince him to ship. If not I got another three on ebay that I am keeping an eye on for the better part of a year, one of them was priced at $600 but is now down to $275 with free shipping which I feel is still too high. There are a couple I found that are priced at $135 and $150 after shipping.

Looks like I will be just going with the dual snorkel and modifying my spare plastic duct to fit on the driver side. Also means I will be hunting down a 1985 Mustang Saleen air cleaner lid that is in chrome since I know polishing the aluminum would require a lot of up keep.

Aside from that I am trying to find the difference between the 1980 - 1985 302 dipstick tubes and the 86 - 88 dipstick tubes and if they are interchangeable.

Rusty - Is this sorta what you are looking for? If so, it is yours for the shipping cost. And I'll remove the snorkels to keep the shipping cost down.