Jump to content
Bullnose Forums

First Drive Today


Recommended Posts

Yes, a bad accelerator pump might cause that.

As for if you can do it, let's first determine what carb you have. I believe it will be a Motorcraft 2150, but please go hear and verify that's what you have: Documentation/Fuel Systems/Carb's Chokes & EFI/Motorcraft 2150.

If that's the one you have then you should be able to rebuild it. That's a pretty simple carb, and the link to the instructions on the Ranger Station plus the instructions from the factory shop manual should be more than enough. But there are also lots of youtubes on it.

Having said that, if it is just the accelerator pump, which you can verify by removing the air cleaner and looking down the carb as you open the throttle, then you should be able to replace that w/o even removing the carb.

From what I see you are right, Motorcraft 2150. Hopefully I can try and get it done. 1E459EA3-C7D5-4AB1-9345-4466776A4EA1.jpeg.d291d89d7b19ca5f7dadf4c9b9657948.jpegDD8FED35-DAFE-40A6-BA0A-D2C8D0FE56A7.jpeg.4cd4645c6e35b463238d53d1331afbb4.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From what I see you are right, Motorcraft 2150. Hopefully I can try and get it done.

Before you start on it, make sure the accelerator pump is bad. In your pic the choke is wide open. With the engine off and the choke open look down the throats of the carb and open the throttle. You should see two strong streams of gas shoot into the carb down the throats. If not, the accelerator pump is bad.

You'll want to buy a kit for the carb, but the kits are pretty universal. You'll need to take that linkage off the pump, pull the 4 screws, and remove any material from the pump's diaphragm if it sticks to the carb or the cover. Both gasket surfaces, the one on the carb and the one on the cover, need to be spotless. And don't scratch them while cleaning them.

But there's a rubbery poppet valve inside the opening and it may be broken. If so it'll need to be replaced. I'm not sure, but I think it can be replaced w/o removing the carb.

We should talk through this before you get started.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Before you start on it, make sure the accelerator pump is bad. In your pic the choke is wide open. With the engine off and the choke open look down the throats of the carb and open the throttle. You should see two strong streams of gas shoot into the carb down the throats. If not, the accelerator pump is bad.

You'll want to buy a kit for the carb, but the kits are pretty universal. You'll need to take that linkage off the pump, pull the 4 screws, and remove any material from the pump's diaphragm if it sticks to the carb or the cover. Both gasket surfaces, the one on the carb and the one on the cover, need to be spotless. And don't scratch them while cleaning them.

But there's a rubbery poppet valve inside the opening and it may be broken. If so it'll need to be replaced. I'm not sure, but I think it can be replaced w/o removing the carb.

We should talk through this before you get started.

I took a look this morning and I have two streams coming in. Now the strong part I really have no idea but they were distinctive streams; however, it did not happen the first movement of throttle but on second movement.

Why would have my choke been open in my photo, I had driven earlier down the road “normally” and just parked and shut it off.

Also the more I read on accelerator pump I don’t see the relationship in my sputtering/shimmy in gear while idle? I do realize too that each component can show different troubles.

I don’t want to do unnecessary repairs but would it be worth removing, cleaning and using kit on carburetor just for preventative maintenance? Or should I just adhere to If it ain’t broke don’t fix it?

If the weather doesn’t get too bad tomorrow a member of my extended family may come for Easter dinner who has extensive experience in rebuilding engines since he was a kid. I was hoping to get him to drive it and take a look at things to get his opinion too.

Thanks

Jeremy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I took a look this morning and I have two streams coming in. Now the strong part I really have no idea but they were distinctive streams; however, it did not happen the first movement of throttle but on second movement.

Why would have my choke been open in my photo, I had driven earlier down the road “normally” and just parked and shut it off.

Also the more I read on accelerator pump I don’t see the relationship in my sputtering/shimmy in gear while idle? I do realize too that each component can show different troubles.

I don’t want to do unnecessary repairs but would it be worth removing, cleaning and using kit on carburetor just for preventative maintenance? Or should I just adhere to If it ain’t broke don’t fix it?

If the weather doesn’t get too bad tomorrow a member of my extended family may come for Easter dinner who has extensive experience in rebuilding engines since he was a kid. I was hoping to get him to drive it and take a look at things to get his opinion too.

Thanks

Jeremy

You should have had two streams on the first move of the throttle. But, I'm not sure what you mean by "second movement". Do you mean you opened the throttle and nothing happened, then closed it and opened it again and got two streams? If so, that's a problem.

The accelerator pump should not cause a problem while idling. Not to say that it can't if it has a leak, but it shouldn't. However, a malfunctioning accelerator pump will certainly cause a problem as you start to open the throttle.

The issue is that that air has less mass than gasoline. So when you open the throttle air moves more quickly than gasoline and for a brief time you have too much air and too little gasoline and the engine doesn't want to run on it. So the accelerator pump is there to force a spritz of gas in as you open the throttle to keep the air/fuel ratio in a range where the engine will continue to run. Then, when you quit moving the throttle the gasoline catches up and there's no need for the pump - until you open the throttle more.

As for the choke, it may have been open because the engine was warm. Or it may have been open because the throttle was up against the fast idle cam. But if the engine is starting properly when cold let's not worry about that for the moment.

Anyway, I wouldn't tear into the carb quite yet. Let's see what your family member has to say. :nabble_smiley_good:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You should have had two streams on the first move of the throttle. But, I'm not sure what you mean by "second movement". Do you mean you opened the throttle and nothing happened, then closed it and opened it again and got two streams? If so, that's a problem.

The accelerator pump should not cause a problem while idling. Not to say that it can't if it has a leak, but it shouldn't. However, a malfunctioning accelerator pump will certainly cause a problem as you start to open the throttle.

The issue is that that air has less mass than gasoline. So when you open the throttle air moves more quickly than gasoline and for a brief time you have too much air and too little gasoline and the engine doesn't want to run on it. So the accelerator pump is there to force a spritz of gas in as you open the throttle to keep the air/fuel ratio in a range where the engine will continue to run. Then, when you quit moving the throttle the gasoline catches up and there's no need for the pump - until you open the throttle more.

As for the choke, it may have been open because the engine was warm. Or it may have been open because the throttle was up against the fast idle cam. But if the engine is starting properly when cold let's not worry about that for the moment.

Anyway, I wouldn't tear into the carb quite yet. Let's see what your family member has to say. :nabble_smiley_good:

Family friend did not show up for Easter dinner due to the storms in South Miss on Sunday.

I took the truck out today to haul away an old mattress and it ran really well. It may be that it’s just working out the oldness (if that’s a word).

I am mad however that my fuel gauge is not working after new sending unit and tank installation. I made sure that it worked prior to installation and compared movement to old unit but for some reason not working now. I thought I got the wire plugged in snugly but it was such a tight area working and was only going on feel.

If it gets the shakes and shimmy’s again I will let you know. But seems alright now.

Thanks

Jeremy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Family friend did not show up for Easter dinner due to the storms in South Miss on Sunday.

I took the truck out today to haul away an old mattress and it ran really well. It may be that it’s just working out the oldness (if that’s a word).

I am mad however that my fuel gauge is not working after new sending unit and tank installation. I made sure that it worked prior to installation and compared movement to old unit but for some reason not working now. I thought I got the wire plugged in snugly but it was such a tight area working and was only going on feel.

If it gets the shakes and shimmy’s again I will let you know. But seems alright now.

Thanks

Jeremy

That's progress, and as Jim says, "Progress is good!" :nabble_anim_claps:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...