ratdude747 Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 Working on pulling my 300. Question: what's the best way/place to strap/chain to the engine when lifting? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 I've done it a couple of different ways. The first time I pulled the engine and transmission together... Then I replaced the two separately, straps slung underneath the oil pan... Then I removed them, but with the cab removed, makes everything ten times easier. But I did replace the engine using a different method, eyebolts into the block without the head on it... The rear chain was already removed in this picture. I'm not sure what the best way is, might not be any of these. But you've got some ideas now. Are you pulling the transmission at the same time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted March 24, 2020 Author Share Posted March 24, 2020 I've done it a couple of different ways. The first time I pulled the engine and transmission together... Then I replaced the two separately, straps slung underneath the oil pan... Then I removed them, but with the cab removed, makes everything ten times easier. But I did replace the engine using a different method, eyebolts into the block without the head on it... The rear chain was already removed in this picture. I'm not sure what the best way is, might not be any of these. But you've got some ideas now. Are you pulling the transmission at the same time? Engine only. One place I read suggested using the alternator/air pump bracket/hinge bolt and the upper driver's side bellhousing bolt re-installed backwards (for connecting to the stand, I won't use either of the upper outside connections). I've since bought some 880lb chain and a 1500lb clevis... since I'll be snaring the chain with the clevis in such a way as to not have all the load on one link, I reckon that gives me 1500lbs of working load, more than I'll need for just the engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted March 24, 2020 Share Posted March 24, 2020 Engine only. One place I read suggested using the alternator/air pump bracket/hinge bolt and the upper driver's side bellhousing bolt re-installed backwards (for connecting to the stand, I won't use either of the upper outside connections). I've since bought some 880lb chain and a 1500lb clevis... since I'll be snaring the chain with the clevis in such a way as to not have all the load on one link, I reckon that gives me 1500lbs of working load, more than I'll need for just the engine? I believe the engine is less than 500lbs. One place I read suggested using the alternator/air pump bracket/hinge bolt and the upper driver's side bellhousing bolt re-installed backwards (for connecting to the stand, I won't use either of the upper outside connections). I'm not sure what you mean(to mount your chains?), but I wouldn't put much weight on the bolts that hold the alternator bracket, they're not particularly big, probably not an issue, but I would think there are better options. As for mounting to the stand, whatever works easiest is best I think. Just keep in mind how long the block is, I've read stories about the warping. Not sure I believe them, but why take the risk. I stuck a 2x4 under the far end. I've also seen guys make custom brackets to support the far end. I'm afraid I don't have a better picture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 I believe the engine is less than 500lbs. One place I read suggested using the alternator/air pump bracket/hinge bolt and the upper driver's side bellhousing bolt re-installed backwards (for connecting to the stand, I won't use either of the upper outside connections). I'm not sure what you mean(to mount your chains?), but I wouldn't put much weight on the bolts that hold the alternator bracket, they're not particularly big, probably not an issue, but I would think there are better options. As for mounting to the stand, whatever works easiest is best I think. Just keep in mind how long the block is, I've read stories about the warping. Not sure I believe them, but why take the risk. I stuck a 2x4 under the far end. I've also seen guys make custom brackets to support the far end. I'm afraid I don't have a better picture. ...Well, I did use the alternator bracket. Engine is out. Not on the stand because I overestimated the bellhousing bolt lenghts, and didn't get cheat washers. Will go fetch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 ...Well, I did use the alternator bracket. Engine is out. Not on the stand because I overestimated the bellhousing bolt lenghts, and didn't get cheat washers. Will go fetch. You didn't break anything, I take it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted March 26, 2020 Share Posted March 26, 2020 ...Well, I did use the alternator bracket. Engine is out. Not on the stand because I overestimated the bellhousing bolt lenghts, and didn't get cheat washers. Will go fetch. Pictures please... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted March 26, 2020 Author Share Posted March 26, 2020 ...Well, I did use the alternator bracket. Engine is out. Not on the stand because I overestimated the bellhousing bolt lenghts, and didn't get cheat washers. Will go fetch. Pictures please... Oh, I will post pics. I have a lot to go through though. Been working on it all day... and found a few good surprises, but I'll post those in the original thread with the issues that led to me pulling the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted March 26, 2020 Author Share Posted March 26, 2020 You didn't break anything, I take it? Nope. Getting the tranny to undock was a PITA but after doing the cha-cha with it for 10 minutes, it finally split. Good thing I supported the nose of the tranny with a 2x4 and two jackstands, allowing me to safely dance it without dropping such. Other notes: - Yes, you do have to remove the hood. Tried to cheat and lost. Other than nicking the paint on the hood, no worries there. -It is possible to pull the engine with factory A/C still pressurized (compressor sitting off to the side, condensor still in core support). Getting the low pressure hose out of the way is a pain, but doable. -The engine is too long to go straight up. But turning it Clockwise 10-20 degrees (birds-eye view) allows it to clear, barely. Pictures of lifting: Note that the chain going through both the AIR pump bolt and the Alternator Bolt. The latter has the load, the former is just an additional safety (although if the bracket failed, I'd be SOL). No issues with the lift system once I got the balance point set. It sat up there for several hours while I pulled the flex plate, realized I needed more hardware, went to Lowes (and ran into a coworker and chatted for a while), and then weaseled with the engine stand "tail" a bunch before finally being able to dock it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 26, 2020 Share Posted March 26, 2020 Nope. Getting the tranny to undock was a PITA but after doing the cha-cha with it for 10 minutes, it finally split. Good thing I supported the nose of the tranny with a 2x4 and two jackstands, allowing me to safely dance it without dropping such. Other notes: - Yes, you do have to remove the hood. Tried to cheat and lost. Other than nicking the paint on the hood, no worries there. -It is possible to pull the engine with factory A/C still pressurized (compressor sitting off to the side, condensor still in core support). Getting the low pressure hose out of the way is a pain, but doable. -The engine is too long to go straight up. But turning it Clockwise 10-20 degrees (birds-eye view) allows it to clear, barely. Pictures of lifting: Note that the chain going through both the AIR pump bolt and the Alternator Bolt. The latter has the load, the former is just an additional safety (although if the bracket failed, I'd be SOL). No issues with the lift system once I got the balance point set. It sat up there for several hours while I pulled the flex plate, realized I needed more hardware, went to Lowes (and ran into a coworker and chatted for a while), and then weaseled with the engine stand "tail" a bunch before finally being able to dock it up. Well done! That looks like it must have been a chore, so I'm impressed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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