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Surface rust


Gsmblue

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In a year or two I will have my truck professionally painted, but that costs a lot of money and I have some short term rust concerns.

There are patches around the bottom of the passenger door frame and on the roof that look like they have got worse over the last 6 months. I would like to treat theses so they do not get worse but also I don't want to create a headache for the pro painter down the line...

I know I can wire brush and sand with 150 to get the worst up and then finish with 400 or something like that. My big question is, there is rust at a seam at the bottom of the passenger door frame and I will not be able to get to all of that... Is it worth using a rust inhibitor/converter? if so any recommendations?? What kind of rattle can primer should I use?

Thanks!

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This is my wheelhouse as I do restoration work. Rust is a specialty. I can tell you exactly what I do, but then I'm using doing more than just a stop gap measure. First, this is not rattle can paint with a damn to help stop your rust. Rust needs moisture to complete the chemical reaction. No moisture, no rust. Also, door folds at the bottom are the worst to stop, you just can't get in there well to alleviate the problem. So . . .you first start with mechanical means. Sand away as much rusted metal as you can. Then treat with phosphoric acid. YOu can get it at the local Lowes or Home Depot.Wipe the acid on with a Scotch pad and work it around. Rust will be eaten away right before your eyes. Keep it wet, don't let it dry. When you have removed as much as you can, wipe dry with a paper towel. No water, no matter what anyone tells you. Then coat it. My suggestion is to use Master Series Silver. You can brush it on or spray it on with a gun. A couple coats will seal out any moisture, the rust will stop. As for painting over it, not a problem. I use it a lot in restoration work and I sand and apply epoxy over it. Actually, I have applied epoxy over it in a wet-on-wet situation, after the MS has almost cured. But since you are not spraying anything, just put a couple coats on and it will be good. You could top coat it with some spray paint in a can for color, but the MS will be doing the real protecting.
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This is my wheelhouse as I do restoration work. Rust is a specialty. I can tell you exactly what I do, but then I'm using doing more than just a stop gap measure. First, this is not rattle can paint with a damn to help stop your rust. Rust needs moisture to complete the chemical reaction. No moisture, no rust. Also, door folds at the bottom are the worst to stop, you just can't get in there well to alleviate the problem. So . . .you first start with mechanical means. Sand away as much rusted metal as you can. Then treat with phosphoric acid. YOu can get it at the local Lowes or Home Depot.Wipe the acid on with a Scotch pad and work it around. Rust will be eaten away right before your eyes. Keep it wet, don't let it dry. When you have removed as much as you can, wipe dry with a paper towel. No water, no matter what anyone tells you. Then coat it. My suggestion is to use Master Series Silver. You can brush it on or spray it on with a gun. A couple coats will seal out any moisture, the rust will stop. As for painting over it, not a problem. I use it a lot in restoration work and I sand and apply epoxy over it. Actually, I have applied epoxy over it in a wet-on-wet situation, after the MS has almost cured. But since you are not spraying anything, just put a couple coats on and it will be good. You could top coat it with some spray paint in a can for color, but the MS will be doing the real protecting.

Wow!

Thank you, that sounds very simple. Like I said, I just want to prevent the deterioration before it becomes a real problem!

I am a physicist so I understand the nature of rust.. keep it dry is key! I will take care of this the first dry weekend when I get back from my trip. I will post pics too .

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Wow!

Thank you, that sounds very simple. Like I said, I just want to prevent the deterioration before it becomes a real problem!

I am a physicist so I understand the nature of rust.. keep it dry is key! I will take care of this the first dry weekend when I get back from my trip. I will post pics too .

If you want some Master Series, I buy it by the case.

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it is not cheap is it.

$37 a quart + $12 shipping....

If you have a discount available I would happily take you up on it!! I only need 1 quart, probably a lot less actually....

Only comes in quarts. I can do $25 plus shipping. Shipping from me is probably more, because I don't get the discount a large business gets. But I'm sure the overall price will be less.

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Only comes in quarts. I can do $25 plus shipping. Shipping from me is probably more, because I don't get the discount a large business gets. But I'm sure the overall price will be less.

Sold!

Now how do I get my contact details to you??

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Pete

What's your impression of Pickle-X20? "rust killer"

I never used it, but know people who have. They liked it. It is a phosphoric based chemical, with some polymers added. I just use phosphoric acid. I talked with a DuPont Engineer in R&D once, in depth about Phosphoric acid and how to use it. I stick with it. It's easy to come by and you don't have to pay extra for some company's version :)

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