85lebaront2 Posted May 9, 2019 Share Posted May 9, 2019 Bill - I don't think I need a bench flash setup as I have this one: That's right, I sent it to you with the TIN3 box and some other items. You just need to finish the wiring including a switch for the key on power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 9, 2019 Author Share Posted May 9, 2019 That's right, I sent it to you with the TIN3 box and some other items. You just need to finish the wiring including a switch for the key on power. Yes, you did. But, you mean the GIN3 box. (Man, you have me worried! You are now 2 years older than I am, and look what those two years do to a man! ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted May 9, 2019 Share Posted May 9, 2019 Yes, you did. But, you mean the GIN3 box. (Man, you have me worried! You are now 2 years older than I am, and look what those two years do to a man! ) I couldn't remember which I sent, am am not out where I can check my inventory. All except my unicorn (a real FEZ3 box) were either TIN3 or GIN3. FYI, those are 1996 E250/350 5.8L w/E4OD and also F series same applications. So when you are prowling junk yards look for some so we will both have spares. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 9, 2019 Author Share Posted May 9, 2019 I couldn't remember which I sent, am am not out where I can check my inventory. All except my unicorn (a real FEZ3 box) were either TIN3 or GIN3. FYI, those are 1996 E250/350 5.8L w/E4OD and also F series same applications. So when you are prowling junk yards look for some so we will both have spares.I'm trying to get my head around your test harness and the Pin-Outs tab on the Electrical/Electronic Engine Control page. Toward that end I've put together this spreadsheet.Does it make sense? Can you answer the questions, please? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted May 9, 2019 Share Posted May 9, 2019 I'm trying to get my head around your test harness and the Pin-Outs tab on the Electrical/Electronic Engine Control page. Toward that end I've put together this spreadsheet.Does it make sense? Can you answer the questions, please?570 and 875 are both grounds, they go to different ground locations, 570, all 5 go to G101, which is near the battery on the RH fender apron, 875 goes to G104 which is near the left hood hinge. That harness I sent you is from a Crown Victoria, colors are different, use the pin locations for correct function. My test harness is the same way, one of the places Ford was not consistent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 9, 2019 Author Share Posted May 9, 2019 570 and 875 are both grounds, they go to different ground locations, 570, all 5 go to G101, which is near the battery on the RH fender apron, 875 goes to G104 which is near the left hood hinge. That harness I sent you is from a Crown Victoria, colors are different, use the pin locations for correct function. My test harness is the same way, one of the places Ford was not consistent. Bill - I've updated the spreadsheet to capture your comments. But, I assume for test purposes that all the grounds can be tied together and go back to the power source. And, that the two VPWR leads can be tied together as well. Also, do I have the connections to the data link connector figured out correctly? I'm assuming that the cable I get from Core Tuning will connect to the DLC - right? And that the computer program, Binary Editor, will read the ECU over the two data link wires and then program the ECU by flashing the PCM wire. Correct? Are there instructions with the kit I'm getting from Core Tuning? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted May 10, 2019 Share Posted May 10, 2019 Bill - I've updated the spreadsheet to capture your comments. But, I assume for test purposes that all the grounds can be tied together and go back to the power source. And, that the two VPWR leads can be tied together as well. Also, do I have the connections to the data link connector figured out correctly? I'm assuming that the cable I get from Core Tuning will connect to the DLC - right? And that the computer program, Binary Editor, will read the ECU over the two data link wires and then program the ECU by flashing the PCM wire. Correct? Are there instructions with the kit I'm getting from Core Tuning? Yes, all grounds to negative source, if you use a battery charger, put a lawn tractor or motorcycle battery as a wave damper for the power. VPWR needs to be switchable as you will need to turn the key on and back off as the flash sequence is executed. On the OBD-II connector, 2 is 914, 10 is 915, 4 and 5 are grounds, 13 is 107 and 16 is 12V power (not needed as far as I remember, I will have to look at mine tomorrow). 914 and 915 are the comm leads, the flash enable is 18V applied to 107, this puts the EEC in a receive state. Once this is done the PC will load the tune into the EEC and the software will instruct you to turn the key off. When flashing in situ (you should understand British) I found that you need to unpower the KAPWR, I do it on Darth by pulling the underhood maxi fuse #9 which saves disconnecting the battery. No instructions, Adam will walk you through and log in on your PC and show you what to do. I had my EEC set up with the bench flash rig so it could be worked with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 10, 2019 Author Share Posted May 10, 2019 Yes, all grounds to negative source, if you use a battery charger, put a lawn tractor or motorcycle battery as a wave damper for the power. VPWR needs to be switchable as you will need to turn the key on and back off as the flash sequence is executed. On the OBD-II connector, 2 is 914, 10 is 915, 4 and 5 are grounds, 13 is 107 and 16 is 12V power (not needed as far as I remember, I will have to look at mine tomorrow). 914 and 915 are the comm leads, the flash enable is 18V applied to 107, this puts the EEC in a receive state. Once this is done the PC will load the tune into the EEC and the software will instruct you to turn the key off. When flashing in situ (you should understand British) I found that you need to unpower the KAPWR, I do it on Darth by pulling the underhood maxi fuse #9 which saves disconnecting the battery. No instructions, Adam will walk you through and log in on your PC and show you what to do. I had my EEC set up with the bench flash rig so it could be worked with. Ok, got it. But, where does the 18V come from? Does the cable they supply derive it via a flying capacitor arrangement? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted May 10, 2019 Share Posted May 10, 2019 Ok, got it. But, where does the 18V come from? Does the cable they supply derive it via a flying capacitor arrangement? I have no idea what it uses and don't plan on taking it apart to find out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 10, 2019 Author Share Posted May 10, 2019 I have no idea what it uses and don't plan on taking it apart to find out. Did quite a bit of running around today, but did manage to get one thing done towards EFI for Big Blue - found a "data link connector", aka OBD-II connector. Turns out that's not the easiest thing to find. Went to all three auto parts stores in town - nada. Finally called my friends at the salvage near here and they pulled the one below for me from an Aerostar, which means the wires are the right color. In fact, comparing it to the one shown in the '96 EVTM, this one has all the right wires and an extra to boot. I'm hoping tomorrow to marry the test harness Bill sent me with this connector, add a couple of switches for vehicle and keep-alive power, and it'll be ready for when I get the package from Core Tuning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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