New Owner in WA State.

[Gary Lewis]

The VIN is not covered up...got the right windshield!

Glad the VIN isn't covered.

Hope you get the fuel problem as well as the glow plugs/controller sorted quickly.

[Ford F834]

Thanks for the info F834.

I pulled a plug a few days ago and I can't identify what they are. I'm ordering some ZD1's very soon.

I'm pretty sure I have the original controller...it's a cylindrical thing that screws into the head with a cap and some wires coming out of it and goes to the relay on the passenger fender. Can I make a new harness that's run to the relay and momentary switch so I completely bypass the controller? I'm also considering putting two switches inline...a toggle to turn on the momentary switch. I have no key for the truck so an extra hidden switch is a good idea I think. I was also wondering if not having a key could be affecting the WTS light. Additionally, the WTS light stays on for 2-3 minutes after I start the truck.

I definitely have some air intrusion...I can see some bubbles in the clear line off of the filter. I am planning on trying to crack some injectors and bleed the system. I'm not sure if it will help though as my rear tank has a pinhole and it appears that the line going to it has been cut or something. Maybe I'm missing the tank selector valve...I'm going to look for it tomorrow. There's an electric pump mounted on the inside of the frame near the midship tank too.

Thanks for your help.

Your description is that of the original, old style controller. This one is extremely easy to convert to manual push button:

You can suit yourself regarding a second kill switch, but if it were me I would look into getting the key switch working. The glow plug momentary switch does not have to use “switched” power but it is recommended.

If your controller is actually powering the glow plugs for 2-3 minutes after staring the engine as the lamp would indicate, this is extremely BAD. Anything over 15 seconds is not recommended.

I am guessing the electric fuel pump was added as a band aid to fix air intrusion. It’s not entirely a bad thing since the return rail system is so leak prone, but it does not negate the fact that you need to fix any leaks in the system. Particularly the injector o rings and return rail hoses. The return hose from the fuel filter head to the engine return line system isn’t necessary. It is the highest point in the fuel system, therefore the most prone to introducing air if the hose leaks. Cap it off at the fuel filter head and let the rest of the return flow through the injector return rail harness. Running rough and surging signals air intrusion. Reduced diesel clatter, low power, and stalling out is an obstructed return system (backpressure retards injection timing).