Big Blue

[Gary Lewis]

Big Blue is a 4x4 1985 F250HD XLT Lariat Explorer that came from the factory with a 460/T19/3.55 combo, auxiliary battery, speed control, and tachometer. However, a few changes have been made along the way. For instance a Warn bumper and presumably a Warn winch were installed at some point, although the winch was missing when I got the truck. And a 5th wheel hitch was added to the bed.

As for the engine, it was rebuilt with an Edelbrock cam, intake manifold, 750 CFM carb and water pump. L&L headers extract the exhaust and dual pipes run through glass packs before exiting at the rear bumper. And Torsen limited-slip diff's were installed in both the front and rear axles.

However, all was not right with the truck when I got it. For instance, the crankcase was full of 6 quarts of oil and 7 quarts of gasoline - someone had bypassed the safety devices on the electrical system and the fuel pump was receiving full battery voltage whenever the key was on, whether the engine was running or not. Someone left the key on and the high pressure from the pump overpowered the needles and floats, and the carb overflowed into the crankcase. So I put all of the safety devices back and added a pressure regulator on the fuel line to keep the pressure below 6 psi for the Eddy.

And, the exhaust system wasn't even close to "right". The header is sitting on the frame on the driver's side, and the exhaust pipes were caught between the main spring and the helper spring on the passenger's side. Plus the welds look like someone forgot to turn the gas on. I haven't replaced the exhaust system yet nor gotten the header off the frame, but I have gotten the pipes out of the springs. Hopefully I'll get the exhaust sorted soon and replace the glass packs with Magnaflows.

On the good side, I've added a 12,000 lb Smittybilt winch with synthetic line to the front bumper. And I built a receiver for a hitch and installed it under the front bumper. Plus, I replaced the dodgy undersized bolts holding the bumper to the truck with new, larger G8 bolts, so nothing is coming off.

Anyway, despite the many other issues, which were too numerous to list, the truck is a blast to drive! The 460 has gobs of torque from 500 RPM, and when the secondaries open on the carb the truck moves!

[Gary Lewis]

Today I mounted the Tekonsha Prodigy P3 brake controller. As I was looking for a place to mount it I spotted the bracket for the speed control, and it turned out that there were already holes at the exactly the right places for the brake controller's bracket. Here's a pic of the brake controller's bracket mounted to the speed control's bracket:

And here's the brake controller mounted in the bracket. As you can see the speed control, horn relay, nor even the brake controller are wired up yet. But, the first two are plug and play, and the controller has but 4 wires, so that should be easy - especially since the brake light wire comes to the speed control.

[Gary Lewis]

Today I mounted the Tekonsha Prodigy P3 brake controller. As I was looking for a place to mount it I spotted the bracket for the speed control, and it turned out that there were already holes at the exactly the right places for the brake controller's bracket. Here's a pic of the brake controller's bracket mounted to the speed control's bracket:

And here's the brake controller mounted in the bracket. As you can see the speed control, horn relay, nor even the brake controller are wired up yet. But, the first two are plug and play, and the controller has but 4 wires, so that should be easy - especially since the brake light wire comes to the speed control.

They say confession is good for the soul. But I sorta doubt this confession is gonna help my reputation.

Ok, so I was looking at the brake controller and realized that where I'll be wiring is right by the wiring for the aftermarket volt meter. And, you may remember that I had this plan to have that voltmeter monitor the auxiliary battery and, when I replace the alternator with a 3G, to replace the ammeter with a voltmeter and have it monitor the starting battery. So, why not wire it up as I'm "in the area"?

No problemo as I have the big auxiliary battery relay (aka solenoid) that sits on the firewall just in front of the driver. The factory wiring runs from the starter relay through the cab and then powers that relay, so why not put the voltmeter's positive wire on the back side of that relay so that when it pulls in the voltmeter comes on? (Now would be a good time to doubt the plan.)

So that is what I did. Realizing that one lug of that relay was connected to the starting battery, I was careful to stay away from it as I pulled the nut and lock washer off the "cold" side and put the voltmeter's terminal on. But being that close to something really "hot" and knowing that everything else under the hood, and even the hood itself, was ground, I was somewhat careful even though I was working on the "cold" side.

I got done without incident and slipped into the cab to turn the key on to energize the relay and power the voltmeter. However, the voltmeter was already sitting at just shy of 13 volts. And the. it dawned on me - that terminal that I put the little voltmeter terminal against on the "cold" side is the feed from the auxiliary battery. I'd worked it hot, fortunately without incident, but my plan seems to lack something.

[Gary Lewis]

They say confession is good for the soul. But I sorta doubt this confession is gonna help my reputation.

Ok, so I was looking at the brake controller and realized that where I'll be wiring is right by the wiring for the aftermarket volt meter. And, you may remember that I had this plan to have that voltmeter monitor the auxiliary battery and, when I replace the alternator with a 3G, to replace the ammeter with a voltmeter and have it monitor the starting battery. So, why not wire it up as I'm "in the area"?

No problemo as I have the big auxiliary battery relay (aka solenoid) that sits on the firewall just in front of the driver. The factory wiring runs from the starter relay through the cab and then powers that relay, so why not put the voltmeter's positive wire on the back side of that relay so that when it pulls in the voltmeter comes on? (Now would be a good time to doubt the plan.)

So that is what I did. Realizing that one lug of that relay was connected to the starting battery, I was careful to stay away from it as I pulled the nut and lock washer off the "cold" side and put the voltmeter's terminal on. But being that close to something really "hot" and knowing that everything else under the hood, and even the hood itself, was ground, I was somewhat careful even though I was working on the "cold" side.

I got done without incident and slipped into the cab to turn the key on to energize the relay and power the voltmeter. However, the voltmeter was already sitting at just shy of 13 volts. And the. it dawned on me - that terminal that I put the little voltmeter terminal against on the "cold" side is the feed from the auxiliary battery. I'd worked it hot, fortunately without incident, but my plan seems to lack something.

Got the voltmeter fixed. It just took this relay, which is triggered by the white/purple wire that pulls in the auxiliary battery relay, which it is sitting beside.

However, when I got done I tried to start the truck - and got the "click" that says the auxiliary relay dropped out, but no click indicating the starter relay came in. I haven't had this problem in months, so am in the process of trying to find it this time.

[Gary Lewis]

Got the voltmeter fixed. It just took this relay, which is triggered by the white/purple wire that pulls in the auxiliary battery relay, which it is sitting beside.

However, when I got done I tried to start the truck - and got the "click" that says the auxiliary relay dropped out, but no click indicating the starter relay came in. I haven't had this problem in months, so am in the process of trying to find it this time.

Well, the start wiring problem eluded me again. I put a light on it in place of the starter relay and it would not come on. I wiggled the wires on that side, and no effect. I then wiggled the wires on the ignition switch, with no effect. Then I wiggled the wire where they come through the firewall - and it worked. As it turns out, that's close to where I was working today, so I'm wondering if I have a broken wire in there.

[1986F150Six]

Well, the start wiring problem eluded me again. I put a light on it in place of the starter relay and it would not come on. I wiggled the wires on that side, and no effect. I then wiggled the wires on the ignition switch, with no effect. Then I wiggled the wire where they come through the firewall - and it worked. As it turns out, that's close to where I was working today, so I'm wondering if I have a broken wire in there.

My bet is that you will find the culprit!

[Gary Lewis]

My bet is that you will find the culprit!

Time to revive this thead. Or maybe I should say "resurect" it in light of what tomorrow is.

The reason is that I'm about to embark on a major re-do of Big Blue, which will include engine work, swapping transmissions, adding EFI, etc. But, there are lots and lots of details that I need to work through regarding those plans, so I'm doing that in a Word document that I will embed here, which will allow you to see my planning and offer suggestions. Please!

[Ford F834]

Time to revive this thead. Or maybe I should say "resurect" it in light of what tomorrow is.

The reason is that I'm about to embark on a major re-do of Big Blue, which will include engine work, swapping transmissions, adding EFI, etc. But, there are lots and lots of details that I need to work through regarding those plans, so I'm doing that in a Word document that I will embed here, which will allow you to see my planning and offer suggestions. Please!

That list ought to keep you out of trouble for a month or two 😅.Most of this stuff is way out of my league with 460 and EFI but I will be following the best I can.I don’t know if you caught the discussion, but it’s looking like the 1345 does not have the triangle pump arm like the 1356. If you use the ZF tunnel cover, plan on carpet and tc shifter boot fitment issues. Minor detail but something worth thinking about while you have it apart.

[Gary Lewis]

That list ought to keep you out of trouble for a month or two 😅.

Most of this stuff is way out of my league with 460 and EFI but I will be following the best I can.

I don’t know if you caught the discussion, but it’s looking like the 1345 does not have the triangle pump arm like the 1356.

If you use the ZF tunnel cover, plan on carpet and tc shifter boot fitment issues. Minor detail but something worth thinking about while you have it apart.

Yep, this is going to take a while. But, it'll be worth it in the end.

I did catch the discussion about the 1345, but wasn't sure if it was all 1345's. So thought when I take it in I'll ask Scotty to check that out.

And I will have to go with the taller cover, which I already have from Shaun from when I put the ZF in Dad's truck. That one has the cutout for the TC and ZF, so it'll go on Big Blue and the one I got on Huck with no cutouts will be used on Dad's truck - after I cut it for the t-case shifter. (Huck had the one that came through the floor.)

So I'll probably have to have new carpet, although I did get by on Dad's with the old carpet. And, our friend in Alabama scored another vicarious purchase on Friday of a ZF shift boot which includes the inner boot. But, I see what you are saying about the t-case boot.

[grumpin]

Yep, this is going to take a while. But, it'll be worth it in the end.

I did catch the discussion about the 1345, but wasn't sure if it was all 1345's. So thought when I take it in I'll ask Scotty to check that out.

And I will have to go with the taller cover, which I already have from Shaun from when I put the ZF in Dad's truck. That one has the cutout for the TC and ZF, so it'll go on Big Blue and the one I got on Huck with no cutouts will be used on Dad's truck - after I cut it for the t-case shifter. (Huck had the one that came through the floor.)

So I'll probably have to have new carpet, although I did get by on Dad's with the old carpet. And, our friend in Alabama scored another vicarious purchase on Friday of a ZF shift boot which includes the inner boot. But, I see what you are saying about the t-case boot.

Wow! Adventurous you are!

I read again about your fuel in the oil. My connector is bad for the oil pressure switch for the fuel pump relay.

I wired it together, so I too have the pump on with the ignition on. I know about it, but got me thinking.

Since I can't find a replacement, I may wire in a toggle switch in the cab.