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Big Blue


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Yep, this is going to take a while. But, it'll be worth it in the end.

I did catch the discussion about the 1345, but wasn't sure if it was all 1345's. So thought when I take it in I'll ask Scotty to check that out.

And I will have to go with the taller cover, which I already have from Shaun from when I put the ZF in Dad's truck. That one has the cutout for the TC and ZF, so it'll go on Big Blue and the one I got on Huck with no cutouts will be used on Dad's truck - after I cut it for the t-case shifter. (Huck had the one that came through the floor.)

So I'll probably have to have new carpet, although I did get by on Dad's with the old carpet. And, our friend in Alabama scored another vicarious purchase on Friday of a ZF shift boot which includes the inner boot. But, I see what you are saying about the t-case boot.

When Jan and I did his truck, I didn’t like the way the transfer case shift boot sat after cutting the hole in the ZF pan. I kind of wish we had installed the pan before cutting and let the carpet hole guide the pan cutting. I guess if you have new carpet with no holes it might fit better. Does the E4OD require the tall cover also? Trent’s ‘87 truck used the Bullnose tunnel cover along with the one-year transfer case linkage.

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When Jan and I did his truck, I didn’t like the way the transfer case shift boot sat after cutting the hole in the ZF pan. I kind of wish we had installed the pan before cutting and let the carpet hole guide the pan cutting. I guess if you have new carpet with no holes it might fit better. Does the E4OD require the tall cover also? Trent’s ‘87 truck used the Bullnose tunnel cover along with the one-year transfer case linkage.

Grumpin - You can't find a replacement for the oil pressure switch? I found one easily, so I'll get you the source if that's what you mean.

But, you are right - there's never a dull moment at my shop.

Jonathan - Are you saying the hole in the carpet didn't fit the t-case shifter? Or what? I'm not sure I follow.

And I think the E4OD requires the tall cover as well. At least that's what was on Huck, and it is a massive transmission.

And that reminds me that I need to contact Trent again about that linkage.

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Grumpin - You can't find a replacement for the oil pressure switch? I found one easily, so I'll get you the source if that's what you mean.

But, you are right - there's never a dull moment at my shop.

Jonathan - Are you saying the hole in the carpet didn't fit the t-case shifter? Or what? I'm not sure I follow.

And I think the E4OD requires the tall cover as well. At least that's what was on Huck, and it is a massive transmission.

And that reminds me that I need to contact Trent again about that linkage.

Gary, just for the heck of it you might just set a Bullnose tunnel cover on Dad’s once you get the cab back down. If it clears okay I’d use it. The reason I say that is because the lever position relative to the boot is exactly correct and the boot was made to fit that pan. The ZF pan slightly tilts the boot and lifts it and makes everything look a bit peaked. If you must use the ZF pan, I would cut the smallest hole you can in the tunnel cover, let the boot “float” and shift it back and forth until you find where the boot looks the best. Then cut the new carpet to fit that boot position.

On Jan’s truck, we held a Bullnose tunnel cover over the ZF cover to spot where to cut the second hole. I think when the taller tunnel cover lifted the carpet it pulled the carpet hole for the transfer case boot back toward the seat relative to the hole we cut in the tunnel cover and that worsened the fitment of the boot through the already tented carpet. Does that make sense?. It seems backwards, but next time I think I would put the tunnel cover in and trace the carpet hole onto the cover, then cut to that hole rather than trying to match the old tunnel cover. In your case, if you are using new carpet then do as I described above for Dad’s.

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Gary, just for the heck of it you might just set a Bullnose tunnel cover on Dad’s once you get the cab back down. If it clears okay I’d use it. The reason I say that is because the lever position relative to the boot is exactly correct and the boot was made to fit that pan. The ZF pan slightly tilts the boot and lifts it and makes everything look a bit peaked. If you must use the ZF pan, I would cut the smallest hole you can in the tunnel cover, let the boot “float” and shift it back and forth until you find where the boot looks the best. Then cut the new carpet to fit that boot position.

On Jan’s truck, we held a Bullnose tunnel cover over the ZF cover to spot where to cut the second hole. I think when the taller tunnel cover lifted the carpet it pulled the carpet hole for the transfer case boot back toward the seat relative to the hole we cut in the tunnel cover and that worsened the fitment of the boot through the already tented carpet. Does that make sense?. It seems backwards, but next time I think I would put the tunnel cover in and trace the carpet hole onto the cover, then cut to that hole rather than trying to match the old tunnel cover. In your case, if you are using new carpet then do as I described above for Dad’s.

Ahhh! Now I see said the blind man. Ok, I'll try the Bullnose cover - maybe this afternoon. :nabble_smiley_wink:

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Grumpin - You can't find a replacement for the oil pressure switch? I found one easily, so I'll get you the source if that's what you mean.

But, you are right - there's never a dull moment at my shop.

Jonathan - Are you saying the hole in the carpet didn't fit the t-case shifter? Or what? I'm not sure I follow.

And I think the E4OD requires the tall cover as well. At least that's what was on Huck, and it is a massive transmission.

And that reminds me that I need to contact Trent again about that linkage.

The connector to the switch.

 

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Grumpin - You can't find a replacement for the oil pressure switch? I found one easily, so I'll get you the source if that's what you mean.

But, you are right - there's never a dull moment at my shop.

Jonathan - Are you saying the hole in the carpet didn't fit the t-case shifter? Or what? I'm not sure I follow.

And I think the E4OD requires the tall cover as well. At least that's what was on Huck, and it is a massive transmission.

And that reminds me that I need to contact Trent again about that linkage.

The connector to the switch.

Grumpin. I think I sent Gary the connector for the switch. Another way to do it though, use a choke heater switch from an 80s FWD Chrysler with the 2.2L engine, of GM used an oil pressure switch on their EFI engines. Either of these use 1/4" flat terminals and they are normally open, closed with pressure.

Tunnel covers, I know all the crew cabs used a tall cover, even with an automatic transmission Darth's is the tall cover.

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Grumpin. I think I sent Gary the connector for the switch. Another way to do it though, use a choke heater switch from an 80s FWD Chrysler with the 2.2L engine, of GM used an oil pressure switch on their EFI engines. Either of these use 1/4" flat terminals and they are normally open, closed with pressure.

Tunnel covers, I know all the crew cabs used a tall cover, even with an automatic transmission Darth's is the tall cover.

85 lebaron, thanks. I think you mentioned that before and I forgot or didn't get it. :nabble_smiley_teeth:

Found this oil pressure switch for a LeBaron, https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=932295&cc=1064641&jsn=629

I'll have to get this going soon.

Edit: Found this I can get locally I hope! https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/TWR86272BX

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85 lebaron, thanks. I think you mentioned that before and I forgot or didn't get it. :nabble_smiley_teeth:

Found this oil pressure switch for a LeBaron, https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=932295&cc=1064641&jsn=629

I'll have to get this going soon.

Edit: Found this I can get locally I hope! https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/TWR86272BX

Grumpin - That says it is normally closed. But you want a normally-open switch that closes when the oil pressure comes up.

Bill had a recommendation for one. Let's look.....

Edit: The NAPA one is normally closed. The Rock Auto one is probably both normally closed and normally open depending on which two terminals you pick. So it should work.

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Grumpin - That says it is normally closed. But you want a normally-open switch that closes when the oil pressure comes up.

Bill had a recommendation for one. Let's look.....

Edit: The NAPA one is normally closed. The Rock Auto one is probably both normally closed and normally open depending on which two terminals you pick. So it should work.

Good point. I had thought of that, then was convinced I wanted normally closed, don't know why.

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I’ll use the power distribution box as well as the rest of the EEC-V harness...
What EEC-V harness? From some particular donor vehicle, or some aftermarket setup?
...relay that will not parallel the batteries until two minutes after the alternator kicks in. That way a dead or low auxiliary battery won’t drain the main battery when the key is turned to On.
But then if the main is dead, how do you connect the aux? And what if you want the added time of running key-off accessories by using both batteries?
I fear the frame is cracked, if not broken, at the steering sector box as there’s a loud clunk coming from that area on turns.
Have you read the frame noise TSB?

https://www.supermotors.net/registry/2742/54113-2

...true duals will run from there...
I'm not a fan of the noise, or weight, or extra bulk & labor, or inefficiency. The exhaust system is like a wind instrument - it's tuned to the engine (from the factory) to get the pulse from one cylinder to help scavenge more exhaust from the next. The next (in the firing order) might be (and often IS) on the opposite bank; so separating the exhaust prevents that benefit. The proof is that true duals are louder - that energy is being wasted as noise.
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