F250 springs on F150 question

[Jacob84]

Hey guys, I'm looking to replace the coil and leaf springs under my truck. My truck either has 390k or 490k miles of Arkansas roads on it so all the springs are toast. I wouldn't mind the truck sitting a little higher and I want some more capacity in the rear. I haul things on a regular basis and I despise a truck that squats when it has a load and it doesn't take much to squat mine anymore. I was searching the ford-truck forums and found a guy with a 94 F150 who swapped out his springs with some F250 Moog cc824 coils up front and 5 leaf F250 springs in the rear. He also removed the rear 2" blocks to maintain a "stock look" (nose slightly lower). The f250 springs with the blocks would've had the tail in the air. Could I do the same on my Bullnose?

[Angelo Voltura]

I have a 95 that I installed CC824 coils on, and then later swapped to the bullnose clip. They will bring the front end up about 2" over stock but you will need adjustable or at minimum 4 degree camber bushings to bring the camber back in when it is aligned. I can now clear stock 16" wheels and tires, but I continue to run my 15" steel wheels.

As far as the spring pack goes I believe they are 3" wide vs 2.5" on a 2wd F150 and the hangers need to be replaced to accommodate for it.

Depending on what spring package your truck had stock it could either sit level or super tail high. My truck had the lightest front springs with the heaviest rear springs with no blocks and sat almost 3-4" difference between front and rear. It's much closer to level now with the front coils, but still a bit noticeable on a flat surface. My advice is to leave the blocks and check it out after you install and BREAK IN the coils. As you drive the ride height will settle. Check it a few days later.

[Frank Wyatt]

How about an auxiliary/overload spring like on some F 250's. I found this on LMC: https://www.lmctruck.com/1980-96-ford/suspension-front-rear/fd-1980-96-rear-suspension-2wd-f150. If I was wanting more load capacity that's the route I would take. Of course you said you are wanting to change your springs anyways, here everything is all together. Personally, I wouldn't go to 3/4 ton springs on a 1/2 ton but it's your truck and you're the one that would have to take the bumps.

[swampedout]

How about an auxiliary/overload spring like on some F 250's. I found this on LMC: https://www.lmctruck.com/1980-96-ford/suspension-front-rear/fd-1980-96-rear-suspension-2wd-f150. If I was wanting more load capacity that's the route I would take. Of course you said you are wanting to change your springs anyways, here everything is all together. Personally, I wouldn't go to 3/4 ton springs on a 1/2 ton but it's your truck and you're the one that would have to take the bumps.

Yea get that squat out! Ive got a Toyota that squats just from putting a 100lb shell on and it drives me crazy.

The other option is seeing if you can get your leaf springs re-arched. If you have a shop that does suspension for commercial vehicles and 18 wheelers, they'll do it. I priced one shop out, they said they'd do mine for 50 a side if you bring them in off the vehicle. I think they told me a 3 day turn around.

There's also the option of doing airbags on the rear so you have more control over your load capacity and ride height. They won't lift the truck, but they will keep it from squatting when you haul.

As far as the coils go, I wish I could help you. Im sure there are other vehicles out there with the same size spring that has a higher spring rate but I don't know what they are.

Maybe look up springs for the extended cab? They should be designed for a heavier constant load. Or if the f150 with a heavier motor (460, 6.3, Idk if these came with the f150?) has different springs, try those out. If you dive deep enough into parts catalogues, you can find the spring rate of any spring and see which one supports the most weight.

Either way, whatever you do in back will matter the most. Even if you get the front new stock sized springs, you should be fine.

[Jacob84]

I have a 95 that I installed CC824 coils on, and then later swapped to the bullnose clip. They will bring the front end up about 2" over stock but you will need adjustable or at minimum 4 degree camber bushings to bring the camber back in when it is aligned. I can now clear stock 16" wheels and tires, but I continue to run my 15" steel wheels.

As far as the spring pack goes I believe they are 3" wide vs 2.5" on a 2wd F150 and the hangers need to be replaced to accommodate for it.

Depending on what spring package your truck had stock it could either sit level or super tail high. My truck had the lightest front springs with the heaviest rear springs with no blocks and sat almost 3-4" difference between front and rear. It's much closer to level now with the front coils, but still a bit noticeable on a flat surface. My advice is to leave the blocks and check it out after you install and BREAK IN the coils. As you drive the ride height will settle. Check it a few days later.

I did some searching and found some Moog adjustable bushings that are 2 3/4 degree of max adjustment for camber. Would that be enough for those cc824 springs?

My truck is 4x4 so it should have the correct hangers but will double check and make sure they're 3 inch wide.

Duly noted, install springs and break them in, then decide on the blocks:nabble_smiley_good:

[Jacob84]

How about an auxiliary/overload spring like on some F 250's. I found this on LMC: https://www.lmctruck.com/1980-96-ford/suspension-front-rear/fd-1980-96-rear-suspension-2wd-f150. If I was wanting more load capacity that's the route I would take. Of course you said you are wanting to change your springs anyways, here everything is all together. Personally, I wouldn't go to 3/4 ton springs on a 1/2 ton but it's your truck and you're the one that would have to take the bumps.

If my rear springs were still in good shape I would definitely go with some overload springs like you're talking about. Keep the f150 ride quality but no squat, that would be ideal. When I look at the time and money it would be easier and cheaper to swap to the f250 springs. But you're right, its gonna ride like a dump-truck and I'll have to live with it everyday. I'll keep your option in mind.

[Jacob84]

Yea get that squat out! Ive got a Toyota that squats just from putting a 100lb shell on and it drives me crazy.

The other option is seeing if you can get your leaf springs re-arched. If you have a shop that does suspension for commercial vehicles and 18 wheelers, they'll do it. I priced one shop out, they said they'd do mine for 50 a side if you bring them in off the vehicle. I think they told me a 3 day turn around.

There's also the option of doing airbags on the rear so you have more control over your load capacity and ride height. They won't lift the truck, but they will keep it from squatting when you haul.

As far as the coils go, I wish I could help you. Im sure there are other vehicles out there with the same size spring that has a higher spring rate but I don't know what they are.

Maybe look up springs for the extended cab? They should be designed for a heavier constant load. Or if the f150 with a heavier motor (460, 6.3, Idk if these came with the f150?) has different springs, try those out. If you dive deep enough into parts catalogues, you can find the spring rate of any spring and see which one supports the most weight.

Either way, whatever you do in back will matter the most. Even if you get the front new stock sized springs, you should be fine.

I get disgusted when I see all the lifted trucks in my town that squat with a trailer attached:nabble_anim_confused: I don't wanna be one of those guys lol. Plus driving with a load that squats your truck can get dangerous, front end gets squirrely.

I didn't think about getting them re-arched, I'll see if there's shop around me that could do it. The downside would be the turnaround time, It would be difficult to be without the truck for a few days. Air bags would be awesome, I've got a buddy that has airbags on his 3/4 ton Dodge, it rides smooth and level. But I'm also the guy that just wants to be able to hook up to something and go, simplicity means a lot to me.

I'll do some searching on rockauto, they're good about giving you spring rates and installed lengths on coil springs. I may shoot for copying the springs of a light duty F250 4x4 with a 351w. That's the closest truck to mine in weight rating but would still give me some more capacity over stock.

[Jacob84]

I have a 95 that I installed CC824 coils on, and then later swapped to the bullnose clip. They will bring the front end up about 2" over stock but you will need adjustable or at minimum 4 degree camber bushings to bring the camber back in when it is aligned. I can now clear stock 16" wheels and tires, but I continue to run my 15" steel wheels.

As far as the spring pack goes I believe they are 3" wide vs 2.5" on a 2wd F150 and the hangers need to be replaced to accommodate for it.

Depending on what spring package your truck had stock it could either sit level or super tail high. My truck had the lightest front springs with the heaviest rear springs with no blocks and sat almost 3-4" difference between front and rear. It's much closer to level now with the front coils, but still a bit noticeable on a flat surface. My advice is to leave the blocks and check it out after you install and BREAK IN the coils. As you drive the ride height will settle. Check it a few days later.

Question I just thought of. Did you have to change to a taller shock when you went to the new cc824 springs? Or were you able to get away with the stock shocks?

[Gary Lewis]

I get disgusted when I see all the lifted trucks in my town that squat with a trailer attached:nabble_anim_confused: I don't wanna be one of those guys lol. Plus driving with a load that squats your truck can get dangerous, front end gets squirrely.

I didn't think about getting them re-arched, I'll see if there's shop around me that could do it. The downside would be the turnaround time, It would be difficult to be without the truck for a few days. Air bags would be awesome, I've got a buddy that has airbags on his 3/4 ton Dodge, it rides smooth and level. But I'm also the guy that just wants to be able to hook up to something and go, simplicity means a lot to me.

I'll do some searching on rockauto, they're good about giving you spring rates and installed lengths on coil springs. I may shoot for copying the springs of a light duty F250 4x4 with a 351w. That's the closest truck to mine in weight rating but would still give me some more capacity over stock.

Rear spring rates are difficult to figure out. So if Rock Auto has a good way to do it, more power to them.

But, here are the pages we have on the subject:

• Spring Codes: Here you can convert the code on the certification label to the part number of the springs. But that doesn't give you the spring rates.

• Rear Springs: Here you can find the capacity of the various part numbers.

Doubt that will help though, but there 'tis.

[Nothing Special]

.... Plus driving with a load that squats your truck can get dangerous, front end gets squirrely....

There's no reason that the rear end squatting should make the front end squirrely. The only effect in the front end is a little more caster, and that shouldn't be enough to be significant.

That said, too much weight in the rear can make the front end squirrely. But stiffer springs in the rear won't help that. You just need to balance the load better.

And overloaded soft springs in the rear end can cause the truck to wallow a lot. Stiffer rear springs will help that. But it from the rear swaying, not the front being squirrely.

I guess my only point is that if you're having handling problems with the front end with a heavy load, you need to do more than put stiffer springs in the rear to take care of it.