Necessities List?

[Rembrant]

The very first thing should be to replace any and all flammable fluid lines. Seen way too many of these trucks go up in flames due to fuel or transmission leaks. My dad's own truck almost went up in flames once due to a transmission line leak.

Anybody who is on the 80-86 Bullnose Fords page on Facebook knows what I'm referring to.

Also, leaves in the blower motor housing.

Shaun gets a double thumbs up for this one. I follow the FB pages and I must say, I am surprised at how many of these trucks I have seen go up in the flames the past few years. I've also seen a few for sale on Craigslist that were sold due to a fire in the engine bay, and a couple local classics that caught fire.

Then again, I see a lot of pictures of loosely draped fuel lines and plastic fuel filters laying on engines...

In any case, I was worried enough about this I promptly marched out and bought a good quality fire extinguisher to put behind the seat. As matter of fact, I'm thinking of having two in there...one on each side of the cab.

So...carry a fire extinguisher with you (is a necessity for me).

And while we're on the topic of FB groups...if you follow them at all you'll also see how often guys have problems with starter solenoids. I'd say thats one of the first things to do on these trucks would be to install new power and ground cables (the big ones) and check/clean/tighten all grounds. All of them.

Then again...common upgrades would also include a 3G alternator and a PMGR starter. (My '84 is still rockin' the original 1G 40amp alternator and the original standard starter).

And an upgrade list would not be complete without both RedHead and BlueTop steering boxes.

[Ford F834]

The very first thing should be to replace any and all flammable fluid lines. Seen way too many of these trucks go up in flames due to fuel or transmission leaks. My dad's own truck almost went up in flames once due to a transmission line leak.

Anybody who is on the 80-86 Bullnose Fords page on Facebook knows what I'm referring to.

Also, leaves in the blower motor housing.

Shaun gets a double thumbs up for this one. I follow the FB pages and I must say, I am surprised at how many of these trucks I have seen go up in the flames the past few years. I've also seen a few for sale on Craigslist that were sold due to a fire in the engine bay, and a couple local classics that caught fire.

Then again, I see a lot of pictures of loosely draped fuel lines and plastic fuel filters laying on engines...

In any case, I was worried enough about this I promptly marched out and bought a good quality fire extinguisher to put behind the seat. As matter of fact, I'm thinking of having two in there...one on each side of the cab.

So...carry a fire extinguisher with you (is a necessity for me).

And while we're on the topic of FB groups...if you follow them at all you'll also see how often guys have problems with starter solenoids. I'd say thats one of the first things to do on these trucks would be to install new power and ground cables (the big ones) and check/clean/tighten all grounds. All of them.

Then again...common upgrades would also include a 3G alternator and a PMGR starter. (My '84 is still rockin' the original 1G 40amp alternator and the original standard starter).

And an upgrade list would not be complete without both RedHead and BlueTop steering boxes.

Very excellent point gentlemen... and continue to watch your hoses as you go under the hood for oil changes etc., I replaced my fuel lines with by-the-foot Gates fuel hose just over two years ago and some are already starting to deteriorate. It does not seem to hold up like it used to. I, too, know FB friends who have lost their trucks to fire. Always carry at least one fire extinguisher and inspect it when you inspect the fuel lines. ☹️

[Ford F834]

Good lists, Jonathan and all others!

Thank you David. I did forget another important one for diesel owners... from 84 or 85 on, the fuel sending unit has a plastic suction foot on it known as the “shower head”. This likes to crack or break off causing it to suck air at about 1/4 tank.

This can be replaced, E5TZ-9J306-BA, but it was a poor design. Many owners simply cut a piece of fuel hose to reach the bottom of the tank. You will want to cut a V notch in it to prevent it from sucking against the bottom of the tank and blocking fuel flow. A brass T or 90 fitting at the bottom will accomplish the same thing.

A fuel sock to filter debris is a good idea, but depending on the mesh size and your climate it can lead to clogging with gelled fuel in the winter. Gas application sending units can have that problem also as the pore size is smaller.

And speaking of debris, if the shower head breaks off and rolls around in the tank it eventually disintegrates into plastic bits which clog and jam the fuel tank selector or passages in the fuel filter head unit. It is a good idea to drop the tank and look inside. Of course it will be heavy because you cannot run it below 1/4 without sucking air, so be prepared to safely lower 5 gallons or more of sloshing diesel.

If your shower head is disintegrated and you need to cut a piece of hose, the original shower head length is 3.25” 🙂. Use 3/8” ID diesel rated rubber fuel hose (or better yet nylon). If you are trying to adjust it to nearly touch the bottom, you can remove the tank vent and shine a flashlight inside to see the pick up hose tip. Hopefully this will help someone.

https://www.amazon.com/Ford-E5TZ-9J306-BA-Fuel-Pump-Strainer/dp/B0042HBSYE

 

[Gary Lewis]

Good lists, Jonathan and all others!

Thank you David. I did forget another important one for diesel owners... from 84 or 85 on, the fuel sending unit has a plastic suction foot on it known as the “shower head”. This likes to crack or break off causing it to suck air at about 1/4 tank.

This can be replaced, E5TZ-9J306-BA, but it was a poor design. Many owners simply cut a piece of fuel hose to reach the bottom of the tank. You will want to cut a V notch in it to prevent it from sucking against the bottom of the tank and blocking fuel flow. A brass T or 90 fitting at the bottom will accomplish the same thing.

A fuel sock to filter debris is a good idea, but depending on the mesh size and your climate it can lead to clogging with gelled fuel in the winter. Gas application sending units can have that problem also as the pore size is smaller.

And speaking of debris, if the shower head breaks off and rolls around in the tank it eventually disintegrates into plastic bits which clog and jam the fuel tank selector or passages in the fuel filter head unit. It is a good idea to drop the tank and look inside. Of course it will be heavy because you cannot run it below 1/4 without sucking air, so be prepared to safely lower 5 gallons or more of sloshing diesel.

If your shower head is disintegrated and you need to cut a piece of hose, the original shower head length is 3.25” 🙂. Use 3/8” ID diesel rated rubber fuel hose (or better yet nylon). If you are trying to adjust it to nearly touch the bottom, you can remove the tank vent and shine a flashlight inside to see the pick up hose tip. Hopefully this will help someone.

https://www.amazon.com/Ford-E5TZ-9J306-BA-Fuel-Pump-Strainer/dp/B0042HBSYE

That's really a good tip, Jonathan!

[Danny G]

That's really a good tip, Jonathan!

Each one of these items should be pinned in the top of a post and linked to a thread showing how to do it. If we don't have a post showing how to do it, maybe we get someone to volunteer to do one. Doing the relay and headlight stuff will be on my list of stuff to do.

I converted my headlights to LED and time will tell but they are pretty dang bright.

I also have to replace my brake and fuel lines but I have the straightener, bender and inline flare tool so I'm planning on doing it myself vs buying pre-made.

I think a MUST do, if you have a vinyl floor, is take it OUT they are detrimental and hold water. Then when you get that all sorted (even if you don't have this floor), the next thing I would call a must do is to wet seal all your fasteners that go through your floor, and all the body plugs. These are not water tight and the water weeps up the rocker panel screws, and seat bolts, and sits in the lip of body plugs, especially in the door frame by the hinges seal those all up.

Another good Mod is the replacing the cowl vent(if that's the right term) from the bullnose with the brick nose+ as it keeps out debris better.

[Angelo Voltura]

Each one of these items should be pinned in the top of a post and linked to a thread showing how to do it. If we don't have a post showing how to do it, maybe we get someone to volunteer to do one. Doing the relay and headlight stuff will be on my list of stuff to do.

I converted my headlights to LED and time will tell but they are pretty dang bright.

I also have to replace my brake and fuel lines but I have the straightener, bender and inline flare tool so I'm planning on doing it myself vs buying pre-made.

I think a MUST do, if you have a vinyl floor, is take it OUT they are detrimental and hold water. Then when you get that all sorted (even if you don't have this floor), the next thing I would call a must do is to wet seal all your fasteners that go through your floor, and all the body plugs. These are not water tight and the water weeps up the rocker panel screws, and seat bolts, and sits in the lip of body plugs, especially in the door frame by the hinges seal those all up.

Another good Mod is the replacing the cowl vent(if that's the right term) from the bullnose with the brick nose+ as it keeps out debris better.

Excellent work guys, I agree with the point of common upgrades would be a better title.

The list I provided in the OP was meant to be elaborated on but just a general idea of the direction to go.

Keep it coming, I will update as I get more free time.

[Rembrant]

I also have to replace my brake and fuel lines but I have the straightener, bender and inline flare tool so I'm planning on doing it myself vs buying pre-made.

I bought my brake line by the roll and ran all new lines in the truck. It's not bad and if you take your time you can bend it all so that it looks factory. If/when you do this, an upgrade to consider is swapping in one of the later aluminum master cylinders from an '87-up truck. If you were redoing brake lines it would be the best time to do it.

 

[Djtorello]

I also have to replace my brake and fuel lines but I have the straightener, bender and inline flare tool so I'm planning on doing it myself vs buying pre-made.

I bought my brake line by the roll and ran all new lines in the truck. It's not bad and if you take your time you can bend it all so that it looks factory. If/when you do this, an upgrade to consider is swapping in one of the later aluminum master cylinders from an '87-up truck. If you were redoing brake lines it would be the best time to do it.

Well, i definitely learned a few things in here, that i didn't find while exploring here, like the door reinforcement panels, and the aluminum master cylinder. Can i add one, other that upgrading the grounds cables? Useful especially if running the 1g 40 amp alternator, swap to an LED turn signal flasher relay, and of coarse led lamps. That should help some of the load.

Edit: and the upgrade ICVR.