Gary Lewis Posted February 26, 2020 Share Posted February 26, 2020 Thanks for the "..circles and arrows..", I wished I had the part in front of me right now, as I'm feeling as though I have vastly overlooked a gaping hole in the EGR Valve where the exhaust tubing connected, since I did not disconnect anything from it except for the vacuum hose that you see in the image there. The front of the spacer is plumbed to the PCV valve right?. Am I crazy? ...you don't need to answer the last part, but I am narrowing down the correct gasket, A nearby parts store provided me with a closer match which, by their documentation is a fit for a '82 351W configuration. Maybe this last part could be a clue of mis-matched/ replaced engine or carburetor component?? There is no "exhaust tubing". The exhaust gases come from the head through the intake manifold to a hole where the arrow is pointing, then up into the spacer, back to the EGR valve, and if it is open forward into the air/fuel mix. The tube to the EGR valve is vacuum to open it - and it closes by internal spring pressure. Which is why I said plug that tube off as well as any vacuum port to which it was connected. That way we know the valve is not going to open at idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulletproof250 Posted February 27, 2020 Author Share Posted February 27, 2020 Thanks for the "..circles and arrows..", I wished I had the part in front of me right now, as I'm feeling as though I have vastly overlooked a gaping hole in the EGR Valve where the exhaust tubing connected, since I did not disconnect anything from it except for the vacuum hose that you see in the image there. The front of the spacer is plumbed to the PCV valve right?. Am I crazy? ...you don't need to answer the last part, but I am narrowing down the correct gasket, A nearby parts store provided me with a closer match which, by their documentation is a fit for a '82 351W configuration. Maybe this last part could be a clue of mis-matched/ replaced engine or carburetor component?? Ahhhhhh! it all makes sense now! Yes I'm getting close to blocking it all off, forever! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulletproof250 Posted February 28, 2020 Author Share Posted February 28, 2020 Ahhhhhh! it all makes sense now! Yes I'm getting close to blocking it all off, forever! For all of those having difficulty finding the right gasket.... Mine was a Felpro 60244, Carburetor Mounting gasket for 302, 351W Eng, 1975-85. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulletproof250 Posted March 8, 2020 Author Share Posted March 8, 2020 For all of those having difficulty finding the right gasket.... Mine was a Felpro 60244, Carburetor Mounting gasket for 302, 351W Eng, 1975-85. So I blocked it All off, Replaced the brake booster line and ran the vacuum advance line right to the base of the carb. I've gotten all of the leaks sealed up. Adjust the mixture screws, and the curb idle, for hours! I have one issue, every time that I think it seems about right, mixture and curb idle. It starts hard. But If I get the screws backed-out way more than normal (4+ turns) it seems to idle and start much better. Am I missing something here? I've got a timing light that gives me RPM, but if I look for the timing mark on the crank I cant even see it, I will say I'm not sure I'm picking up the RPM from the #1 cylinder. Anything is worth a shot at this time. I'm pretty confident that the Carb-rebuild is solid, as the truck drives pretty well. and will stay running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted March 8, 2020 Share Posted March 8, 2020 So I blocked it All off, Replaced the brake booster line and ran the vacuum advance line right to the base of the carb. I've gotten all of the leaks sealed up. Adjust the mixture screws, and the curb idle, for hours! I have one issue, every time that I think it seems about right, mixture and curb idle. It starts hard. But If I get the screws backed-out way more than normal (4+ turns) it seems to idle and start much better. Am I missing something here? I've got a timing light that gives me RPM, but if I look for the timing mark on the crank I cant even see it, I will say I'm not sure I'm picking up the RPM from the #1 cylinder. Anything is worth a shot at this time. I'm pretty confident that the Carb-rebuild is solid, as the truck drives pretty well. and will stay running. First, number one cylinder on Ford V8 engines is the right (passenger side) front cylinder. Second, are you disconnecting and plugging the vacuum advance? Third, you could have a bad balancer, after 36 years they can fail, the outer ring is bonded to the inner with rubber and it will eventually fail. One note, the scale on the balancer runs from 10° After Top Dead Center to 30° Before Top Dead Center (abbreviated ATDC and BTDC) be sure you are going the correct way from TDC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 8, 2020 Share Posted March 8, 2020 So I blocked it All off, Replaced the brake booster line and ran the vacuum advance line right to the base of the carb. I've gotten all of the leaks sealed up. Adjust the mixture screws, and the curb idle, for hours! I have one issue, every time that I think it seems about right, mixture and curb idle. It starts hard. But If I get the screws backed-out way more than normal (4+ turns) it seems to idle and start much better. Am I missing something here? I've got a timing light that gives me RPM, but if I look for the timing mark on the crank I cant even see it, I will say I'm not sure I'm picking up the RPM from the #1 cylinder. Anything is worth a shot at this time. I'm pretty confident that the Carb-rebuild is solid, as the truck drives pretty well. and will stay running. Four turns out isn't bad, but it may mean there is still a vacuum leak. Try unplugging the brake booster and capping off the port to which it was connected. It is possible it has a leak and is the source of the extra air. But, does the engine idle down well? If so you may not have a problem. On the timing, do you have the timing light set to zero? A timing light that shows RPM is usually a roll-back unit. Not always, but usually. And if it isn't on zero it'll not show the correct timing. As for #1 cylinder, I'm sure you know but it is the front one on the passenger's side. So if your light's pickup is on it you are getting triggered by #1. However, it is possible that your harmonic balancer has slipped and isn't showing the correct timing. Have you tried bringing #1 up by hand to see what the pointer shows at TDC? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulletproof250 Posted March 8, 2020 Author Share Posted March 8, 2020 Most parts stores used to carry carburetor adjusters, a long flexible shaft, or a curved tube with a flexible shaft inside it. The good ones had a sleeve like a screw starter to keep the bit engaged on the mixture screw. Gary, All good points, I hoe to get sometime outside today but I'll try the brake booster first. and double check that 4 turns is, really where is saw the best performance, one-last-time. I have my concerns about the harmonic balancer because even on my first go round with getting this time fired up, I remember cleaning direct off of the timing mark, and i was able to see it. Now I don't see anything.... which leads me to another question. I notice that the timing pointer has a point and then a small circle lower on the indicator, I assume the I am still watching for the pointer to line up with the mark on the Harmonic balance, not to see the "line" through the circle / "window"..... and again, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted March 8, 2020 Share Posted March 8, 2020 Gary, All good points, I hoe to get sometime outside today but I'll try the brake booster first. and double check that 4 turns is, really where is saw the best performance, one-last-time. I have my concerns about the harmonic balancer because even on my first go round with getting this time fired up, I remember cleaning direct off of the timing mark, and i was able to see it. Now I don't see anything.... which leads me to another question. I notice that the timing pointer has a point and then a small circle lower on the indicator, I assume the I am still watching for the pointer to line up with the mark on the Harmonic balance, not to see the "line" through the circle / "window"..... and again, Alex, the circle is for a timing probe, used with many engine analyzers. It uses a magnetic pickup on the slot in the balancer and requires you to input the offset, ie how far the slot and window are from TDC. The analyzer uses this and the signal to display the actual timing in degrees either as a digital value or on an analog meter. You are correct in using the pointer against the numbered scale on the balancer. FWIW, I usually put white paint or similar at TDC and the correct setting so I am not trying to read the numbers through the belts and hoses. If you want real fun, older British cars had the marks on the bottom of the engine, usually on the oil pan, which involves lying on the ground to read them and having a helper adjust, same thing on most GM and Chrysler full size vans where the distributor is in the back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulletproof250 Posted March 12, 2020 Author Share Posted March 12, 2020 Alex, the circle is for a timing probe, used with many engine analyzers. It uses a magnetic pickup on the slot in the balancer and requires you to input the offset, ie how far the slot and window are from TDC. The analyzer uses this and the signal to display the actual timing in degrees either as a digital value or on an analog meter. You are correct in using the pointer against the numbered scale on the balancer. FWIW, I usually put white paint or similar at TDC and the correct setting so I am not trying to read the numbers through the belts and hoses. If you want real fun, older British cars had the marks on the bottom of the engine, usually on the oil pan, which involves lying on the ground to read them and having a helper adjust, same thing on most GM and Chrysler full size vans where the distributor is in the back. Just if anyone is curious about gasket part numbers for a 1984 2bbl, EGR Plate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted March 12, 2020 Share Posted March 12, 2020 Just if anyone is curious about gasket part numbers for a 1984 2bbl, EGR Plate Good find sir! Gaskets can drive a person crazy trying to find the right one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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