Bulletproof250 Posted January 28, 2020 Author Share Posted January 28, 2020 Thanks Gary, I just replaced the tank with a plastic one. i already replaced the fuel pump, and I've always had a clear inline filter following the pump. In combination with that there is the one at the Carb as well. I feel like the system should stay pretty clean. Unless you think that I'm overlooking something, I'm thinking that I'll stick with the current layout. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 28, 2020 Share Posted January 28, 2020 Man, that thing had a lot of rust in it. But you are getting it clean. And I think your filters should work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted January 28, 2020 Share Posted January 28, 2020 Be sure when you put the throttle plates back in that they are centered properly. Either restake or loctite the screws, one of them coming out can ruin your whole day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulletproof250 Posted January 28, 2020 Author Share Posted January 28, 2020 one of them coming out can ruin your whole day. Bill, Yeah I'd imagine so, any suggestions on a good thread locker somewhat impervious to gasoline? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted January 28, 2020 Share Posted January 28, 2020 one of them coming out can ruin your whole day. Bill, Yeah I'd imagine so, any suggestions on a good thread locker somewhat impervious to gasoline? I used Loctite red, or if you can get a large punch or piece of bar stock clamped in a vice, hold the carburetor, or have someone hold it for you, use a center punch on the end of the threads to upset them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulletproof250 Posted February 1, 2020 Author Share Posted February 1, 2020 I used Loctite red, or if you can get a large punch or piece of bar stock clamped in a vice, hold the carburetor, or have someone hold it for you, use a center punch on the end of the threads to upset them. I went with Loctite Green (Bearing) and claimed it "Good" started it her up, easy. Then came to to the idle Mixture. I kept adjusting the mixture down and them the idle. It still idles rough, forever. Does it have a cam? It does have a speed shop sticker from 30+ years ago, I guess it's a possibility. How would I know? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 1, 2020 Share Posted February 1, 2020 I went with Loctite Green (Bearing) and claimed it "Good" started it her up, easy. Then came to to the idle Mixture. I kept adjusting the mixture down and them the idle. It still idles rough, forever. Does it have a cam? It does have a speed shop sticker from 30+ years ago, I guess it's a possibility. How would I know? How 'bout giving us a video of it idling? If you don't know how let me know and I can provide instructions. As for figuring out if you have a cam that "bigger" than stock, that's not easy. If you don't have any documentation then the only way I know of to do it is to measure the lift with a dial indicator at the valve while noting the open & close times using a degree wheel on the crankshaft. I've done it, and it is tedious. Having said all that, if the air/fuel mix is too lean you can get an unsteady idle where the engine almost dies and then recovers, almost dies and then recovers, time after time. Also, it is possible to have a similar problem if the choke is on too far and the vacuum pull-off pulls it too far off. So make sure the choke if fully off before you start adjusting the idle air/fuel mix. If you have to, loosen the three screws and dial the choke back so it is fully open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Wyatt Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 How 'bout giving us a video of it idling? If you don't know how let me know and I can provide instructions. As for figuring out if you have a cam that "bigger" than stock, that's not easy. If you don't have any documentation then the only way I know of to do it is to measure the lift with a dial indicator at the valve while noting the open & close times using a degree wheel on the crankshaft. I've done it, and it is tedious. Having said all that, if the air/fuel mix is too lean you can get an unsteady idle where the engine almost dies and then recovers, almost dies and then recovers, time after time. Also, it is possible to have a similar problem if the choke is on too far and the vacuum pull-off pulls it too far off. So make sure the choke if fully off before you start adjusting the idle air/fuel mix. If you have to, loosen the three screws and dial the choke back so it is fully open. There's many things that can cause a less than ideal idle. Further analysis will ultimately get it worked out. Happy onion peeling! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulletproof250 Posted February 2, 2020 Author Share Posted February 2, 2020 Having said all that, if the air/fuel mix is too lean you can get an unsteady idle where the engine almost dies and then recovers, almost dies and then recovers, time after time. Gary, I suspect that your right, but i must ask, what does everyone use to get to those screws while the engine is running. I'm a risk taker and all, but passing up on my past years of trial and error, I'd rather not find myself laying on the fan shroud ,as I had been, while the engine is running trying to get at at those mixture screws for adjustment. I know there has to be a better way but I have yet to find a "perfect-fit" in my Google searches. please advise, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 Having said all that, if the air/fuel mix is too lean you can get an unsteady idle where the engine almost dies and then recovers, almost dies and then recovers, time after time. Gary, I suspect that your right, but i must ask, what does everyone use to get to those screws while the engine is running. I'm a risk taker and all, but passing up on my past years of trial and error, I'd rather not find myself laying on the fan shroud ,as I had been, while the engine is running trying to get at at those mixture screws for adjustment. I know there has to be a better way but I have yet to find a "perfect-fit" in my Google searches. please advise, Most parts stores used to carry carburetor adjusters, a long flexible shaft, or a curved tube with a flexible shaft inside it. The good ones had a sleeve like a screw starter to keep the bit engaged on the mixture screw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts