Adding Remote Locking

[Gary Lewis]

I didn't even think about voltage drop.

If I was going about this differently I would hands down look into replacing the factory relay with a bosch style. Even securing a bosch relay to the same bolt as the factory relay and wiring it inline would still be clean.

And at least it gives others some options. I don't have another relay like that in my shop but next time I get to my parents (parts trucks) or jy I'll pull one and test it.

But unfortunately, like you stated, neither of those really fit with my standard...approach(?). Whatever the word would be.

So I made a factory looking jumper to go between where the DB wire connects to the yellow wire (for dual horns) up by the left hand turn signal

I have a plan for how the final relay will be installed and wires routed but for right now I have just hooked up one of the fused relays and have it hanging out on the drivers side platform.

I think that leaves the Ground When Armed /Starter Kill as the only thing left before a guide can be put together.

Wait! The DB wire out at the horn goes hot when the horn is to honk! Don't ground it.

You need to ground the coil to the horn relay, which then puts power on the other DB wire to the horn.

Or did I misunderstand?

[kramttocs]

Wait! The DB wire out at the horn goes hot when the horn is to honk! Don't ground it.

You need to ground the coil to the horn relay, which then puts power on the other DB wire to the horn.

Or did I misunderstand?

I just didn't explain myself at all is the problem so glad you pointed it out.

The relay is ground triggered.

A fused hot going to the coil and the source (30 and 86)

The ground Horn output from the Viper going to the other side of the coil (85)

Wire going from the output to the new branch in the jumper I made (87) - i.e 12v going to horn

------------------------

We talked about the hot in start and run earlier in the thread and that the long, vertical R/LG on the right was a candidate and wouldn't be engine specific.

That won't give the full 12v in Run though, right?

I plan on using a relay to give the security module 12v from the battery, but the drop in Run voltage would make pulling in the relay iffy?

 

[kramttocs]

I just didn't explain myself at all is the problem so glad you pointed it out.

The relay is ground triggered.

A fused hot going to the coil and the source (30 and 86)

The ground Horn output from the Viper going to the other side of the coil (85)

Wire going from the output to the new branch in the jumper I made (87) - i.e 12v going to horn

------------------------

We talked about the hot in start and run earlier in the thread and that the long, vertical R/LG on the right was a candidate and wouldn't be engine specific.

That won't give the full 12v in Run though, right?

I plan on using a relay to give the security module 12v from the battery, but the drop in Run voltage would make pulling in the relay iffy?

Trouble sleeping so went back to the evtm and excited to test this out tomorrow afternoon but I think C327 is the answer to Hot in Start and Run.

[Gary Lewis]

Trouble sleeping so went back to the evtm and excited to test this out tomorrow afternoon but I think C327 is the answer to Hot in Start and Run.

Yes, C327 is perfect. Full power in both Start & Run and, I assume, isn't otherwise used in your setup.

 

[kramttocs]

I just didn't explain myself at all is the problem so glad you pointed it out.

The relay is ground triggered.

A fused hot going to the coil and the source (30 and 86)

The ground Horn output from the Viper going to the other side of the coil (85)

Wire going from the output to the new branch in the jumper I made (87) - i.e 12v going to horn

------------------------

We talked about the hot in start and run earlier in the thread and that the long, vertical R/LG on the right was a candidate and wouldn't be engine specific.

That won't give the full 12v in Run though, right?

I plan on using a relay to give the security module 12v from the battery, but the drop in Run voltage would make pulling in the relay iffy?

Gary and I had talked about various options for the horn relay since the keyless entry I am using can't seem to pull in the factory relay. At the time I opted to keep the factory relay and add in my own for the keyless entry/alarm (see a few posts above this). Have since agreed that having two relays is unnecessary so have removed the factory relay as well as the associated short harness/connector from the speed control harness.

Not a big or important change but just wanted to add my crudely drawn diagram here in case it helps anyone in the future.

This is with me using a relay in the engine bay because that is where my ssVEC is. As Gary mentioned, a possibly easier way is to just replace the factory relay with a bosch style one if you are also finding that your keyless entry/alarm can't pull it in.

[86 12 Brutus]

Does this sound right for the Horn Honk?

User supplied relay (ground trigger) mounted in engine bay:

85 - H1/12 (-200mA from Viper box)

86 - fused +12v (20amp)

87a - Y/LG from truck horn switch (aka steering wheel)

87 - fuse + 12v (20amp) - jumper from 86

30 - Y/LG to truck horn

Jein. (You are going to understand German soon.) There are two scenarios, as shown below. With speed control, which I assume you have, there is yellow/light green after the relay. But on the trucks w/o speed control the wire after the horn switch is dark blue. Further, C305(A/B) is on the steering column and the relay is under the hood. So why not say you'll tap into the dark blue wire under the hood? That'll work for both scenarios.

[kramttocs]

 

Be careful with the aftermarket cheap stuff. we bought a kit for about 39 bucks with alarm and the whole 9 yards. Nick ended up having to do some stuff because what they dont tell you in the instructions is that if you dont hurry up and get the keys out with your remote hanging on them, they will be locked inside the truck.

The instructions on most of these kits are very vague, very little wireing information and no information at all on how to insatll the aftermarket door locks.

From Nick: Most of these china deluxe alarm systems have wires that connect to the interior lights and the ignition. some of them will lock the doors about 30 seconds after the ignition has been turned off. others will lock the doors after the last door has been closed. either way, this is just enought time for you to remember your keys were in the truck and have them locked in. I'm using mine as a convience module. I got ride of the passive lock function. But that takes alot of electronic reworking. Later on i will build an alarm system that arms itself once the doors are locked with the key only. I am working on a sense module that can tell when the key is in the ignition, if the door is locked with the key in the ignition, any time the door is opened then closed, the door will unlock. So the only way you can lock the truck , is if the key is not in the ignition.

Just be careful when installing anything like this and keep your window down, just in case you happen to end up having one of these types of systems. If can help in anyway, just ask and i will do my best to help you out

I don't think Viper supports DIY installations so their very vague and incomplete instructions are likely intended to push the buyer to have them installed by a shop.

From Nick: Most of these china deluxe alarm systems have wires that connect to the interior lights and the ignition. some of them will lock the doors about 30 seconds after the ignition has been turned off. others will lock the doors after the last door has been closed. either way, this is just enought time for you to remember your keys were in the truck and have them locked in. I'm using mine as a convience module. I got ride of the passive lock function. But that takes alot of electronic reworking. Later on i will build an alarm system that arms itself once the doors are locked with the key only. I am working on a sense module that can tell when the key is in the ignition, if the door is locked with the key in the ignition, any time the door is opened then closed, the door will unlock. So the only way you can lock the truck , is if the key is not in the ignition.

I've haven't seen any that work like that (auto lock after ignition OFF) although seems likely to exists but mine is configurable via dipswitches so that it can lock after you turn on the ignition or unlock after you turn it off - this has gotten me a number of times when starting the truck with the door open and then stepping out and shutting the door to monitor something on the engine. So I can definitely imagine the pain of having it autolock after ignition off without the ability to disable that feature.

Curious on the bolded part. Wouldn't the door be unlocked via the normal hardware by opening it? What about using the 'key in ignition' factory circuit in your 86 to prevent them from locking?

 

[Gary Lewis]

Gary and I had talked about various options for the horn relay since the keyless entry I am using can't seem to pull in the factory relay. At the time I opted to keep the factory relay and add in my own for the keyless entry/alarm (see a few posts above this). Have since agreed that having two relays is unnecessary so have removed the factory relay as well as the associated short harness/connector from the speed control harness.

Not a big or important change but just wanted to add my crudely drawn diagram here in case it helps anyone in the future.

This is with me using a relay in the engine bay because that is where my ssVEC is. As Gary mentioned, a possibly easier way is to just replace the factory relay with a bosch style one if you are also finding that your keyless entry/alarm can't pull it in.

I like this approach, Scott. Fewer things to fail.

[kramttocs]

I like this approach, Scott. Fewer things to fail.

It just took me a little while to see the wisdom of your ways

I still don't really get why my module was unable to pull the factory relay in so this may just be a situation where mine is weak and no one else will run into this. For anyone else that does this in the future I would first try the horn output of your module with the trigger terminal on the factory relay to see if it can pull it in fully so that it actually honks vs just grunting a little.

[85lebaront2]

 

Be careful with the aftermarket cheap stuff. we bought a kit for about 39 bucks with alarm and the whole 9 yards. Nick ended up having to do some stuff because what they dont tell you in the instructions is that if you dont hurry up and get the keys out with your remote hanging on them, they will be locked inside the truck.

The instructions on most of these kits are very vague, very little wireing information and no information at all on how to insatll the aftermarket door locks.

From Nick: Most of these china deluxe alarm systems have wires that connect to the interior lights and the ignition. some of them will lock the doors about 30 seconds after the ignition has been turned off. others will lock the doors after the last door has been closed. either way, this is just enought time for you to remember your keys were in the truck and have them locked in. I'm using mine as a convience module. I got ride of the passive lock function. But that takes alot of electronic reworking. Later on i will build an alarm system that arms itself once the doors are locked with the key only. I am working on a sense module that can tell when the key is in the ignition, if the door is locked with the key in the ignition, any time the door is opened then closed, the door will unlock. So the only way you can lock the truck , is if the key is not in the ignition.

Just be careful when installing anything like this and keep your window down, just in case you happen to end up having one of these types of systems. If can help in anyway, just ask and i will do my best to help you out

FWIW, in 1994 Ford started offering an RKE system for the trucks. The system they used is from a Taurus and requires a little re-pinning of the power lock switches. It does not (originally) have a key pad, but the key pad input socket is on the module, and as one friend who owns a truck with the factory RKE system found, the key pad code is on the module so adding a key pad is possible. The other nice feature of the Taurus and truck units, the courtesy lights are also controlled by it so they will do a slow fade to off when all doors are closed and after about 20 min if you leave a door open. Here is the first one I installed on Darth:

I actually pulled a door module from a 1996 Lincoln Town Car and it's key fobs have a trunk release button (not real useful on a truck), but wait, it will send an output signal when activated and I have a nice aftermarket remote start module I removed from a Dodge that can accept a + or - input to start the engine.

On my 1985 Chrysler I had a very nice unit made by Design Tech in Northern VA that was a remote start, lock unlock and alarm system. Unfortunately Design Tech sold out to Directed Electronics who own a number of the aftermarket systems and most of the support vanished along with the quality. The prices went way up after that also. I had put several Design Tech systems on my vehicles and my late wife loved being able to start her Lincoln, later her Grand Caravan from inside the house to let the AC cool in the summer and the heat get started in the winter.