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Adding Remote Locking


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Cool! I hope to add a security system to Dad's truck, if not Big Blue, so am glad this is working out.

In 1994 Ford added an RKE system to the trucks, no door keypad but a complete RKE system. It is the same as the Taurus uses and does have a place to connect a keypad. Biggest issue is the wiring changes between RKE and no RKE on the power lock switches. If you look at the 1996 EVTM it covers it, it also adds the "battery saver" feature (leave the doors open too long and the interior lights go out).

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In 1994 Ford added an RKE system to the trucks, no door keypad but a complete RKE system. It is the same as the Taurus uses and does have a place to connect a keypad. Biggest issue is the wiring changes between RKE and no RKE on the power lock switches. If you look at the 1996 EVTM it covers it, it also adds the "battery saver" feature (leave the doors open too long and the interior lights go out).

Guess I ought to add the RKE section to the '96 EVTM.

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Guess I ought to add the RKE section to the '96 EVTM.

Hooked up the interior "Supervision" part of it last night. I tied it directly into the passenger underdash light circuit by cutting off the factory terminal and adding a new one with both the factory wire and the module's wire.

IMG_20200521_102745.thumb.jpg.3383e8d30ca357f5e3b0b4fcf08a97ff.jpg

Was surprised to find that the local auto parts store could get the terminals in the same day. Standard CG60

IMG_20200521_102914.thumb.jpg.a6f53e2af01f4cc0454886f7f2e45003.jpg

Next is the parking light/hazard indicators.

Earlier in this thread there was reference to using the LG/W and W/BL wires that come out of the hazard switch (steering column) but also the W/R [H] wire that goes from the Hazard flasher and into the switch.

The W/R would be ideal but looking at the switch diagram, does that work? That circuit won't make it's way to the lights unless the hazard tab is pulled out on the column, right?

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Hooked up the interior "Supervision" part of it last night. I tied it directly into the passenger underdash light circuit by cutting off the factory terminal and adding a new one with both the factory wire and the module's wire.

Was surprised to find that the local auto parts store could get the terminals in the same day. Standard CG60

Next is the parking light/hazard indicators.

Earlier in this thread there was reference to using the LG/W and W/BL wires that come out of the hazard switch (steering column) but also the W/R [H] wire that goes from the Hazard flasher and into the switch.

The W/R would be ideal but looking at the switch diagram, does that work? That circuit won't make it's way to the lights unless the hazard tab is pulled out on the column, right?

What does your system do to the hazards? I'm thinking it pulses them, meaning it applies voltage and takes it away, simulating the hazard flasher. Right?

If so, if you connect to the w/r wire you also have to turn the hazard switch on for the power to get to the bulbs.

So the only way for the system to flash the hazards is to tie into both the lg/w and the w/bl. But, you can't tie them together or the turn signals will both work at the same time. However, you could use a pair of diodes with the anodes tied together and one cathode going to the lg/w and the other going to the w/bl. That way the turn signals will still work. However, the voltage to the bulbs will be down ~.7v when the system is flashing them.

4586644_orig.thumb.jpg.1bbe110fef188ea9c0ce21fcd324be97.jpg

 

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What does your system do to the hazards? I'm thinking it pulses them, meaning it applies voltage and takes it away, simulating the hazard flasher. Right?

If so, if you connect to the w/r wire you also have to turn the hazard switch on for the power to get to the bulbs.

So the only way for the system to flash the hazards is to tie into both the lg/w and the w/bl. But, you can't tie them together or the turn signals will both work at the same time. However, you could use a pair of diodes with the anodes tied together and one cathode going to the lg/w and the other going to the w/bl. That way the turn signals will still work. However, the voltage to the bulbs will be down ~.7v when the system is flashing them.

Thanks Gary. Yes it does and that confirms my thinking...unfortunately. Should this post be edited to avoid any future confusion?

What about forgoing the hazard circuit and hooking into the connector (C906) behind the drivers kick panel that is for the cab clearance lights? So using the parking light circuit instead.

This would be a really easy hookup for people to make and even for those of us that have clearance lights it is still easy to work with.

The only downside (flashing the clearance lights is a pro for me) would be that it would dim the radio and dash lights briefly but I can't think of a situation where that would be noticed.

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Thanks Gary. Yes it does and that confirms my thinking...unfortunately. Should this post be edited to avoid any future confusion?

What about forgoing the hazard circuit and hooking into the connector (C906) behind the drivers kick panel that is for the cab clearance lights? So using the parking light circuit instead.

This would be a really easy hookup for people to make and even for those of us that have clearance lights it is still easy to work with.

The only downside (flashing the clearance lights is a pro for me) would be that it would dim the radio and dash lights briefly but I can't think of a situation where that would be noticed.

I think C906 is perfect!

And, I'll check w/Steve to see what he did and how it worked. I cannot see using the w/r working at all, now that I look at it more closely. If it didn't work for him, as it surely can't unless I'm missing something, I'll edit that post to make it C906. :nabble_smiley_good:

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I think C906 is perfect!

And, I'll check w/Steve to see what he did and how it worked. I cannot see using the w/r working at all, now that I look at it more closely. If it didn't work for him, as it surely can't unless I'm missing something, I'll edit that post to make it C906. :nabble_smiley_good:

Checked with Steve, and it didn't work. I've now edited the previous post, and will send him a link. I'm pretty sure this one will work - and it'll light the truck up! :nabble_smiley_good:

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Checked with Steve, and it didn't work. I've now edited the previous post, and will send him a link. I'm pretty sure this one will work - and it'll light the truck up! :nabble_smiley_good:

Can confirm it works great! Easy to hook up (even with clearance lights) and having all the exterior lights (sans headlights) light up when locking and unlocking looks really good.

 

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Can confirm it works great! Easy to hook up (even with clearance lights) and having all the exterior lights (sans headlights) light up when locking and unlocking looks really good.

Good! I'll bet you had lots of lights coming on. :nabble_smiley_good:

Sure glad you caught that.

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Good! I'll bet you had lots of lights coming on. :nabble_smiley_good:

Sure glad you caught that.

Am I reading the Horn Relay (for speed control trucks) correctly in that it is ground triggered?

So the DB wire (notated 1) at the bottom right of the relay image that goes to the speed control switch is open but goes to ground when the horn button on the steering wheel is pressed?

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