Gary Lewis Posted January 18, 2020 Author Share Posted January 18, 2020 That sounds like what I saw out there. So one could make a jumper between the DB and Y/LG that they then cut. That way they can revert to stock if wanted. Yes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 Yes. You mean ja Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 18, 2020 Author Share Posted January 18, 2020 You mean ja Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 23, 2020 Author Share Posted January 23, 2020 Something in the back of my mind says there was a y/lg jumper that connected the two horns. I think one end had a female 1/4" connector with a male tap, and the other end was just female 1/4". Put that on the two horns and the DB went on the male connector. Was just looking for something else and ran across this, which is the jumper to add a 2nd horn to a Bullnose truck. The male connector plugs into the dark blue (DB, Scott ) cable and then the female connectors go to the horns. So, the EVTM is wrong as it shows that jumper to be DB. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted January 23, 2020 Share Posted January 23, 2020 Was just looking for something else and ran across this, which is the jumper to add a 2nd horn to a Bullnose truck. The male connector plugs into the dark blue (DB, Scott ) cable and then the female connectors go to the horns. So, the EVTM is wrong as it shows that jumper to be DB. Guess it's good and bad that they stuck with Y/LG here. Consistent with the horn circuit but as we found - a little confusing when going off the EVTM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 23, 2020 Author Share Posted January 23, 2020 Guess it's good and bad that they stuck with Y/LG here. Consistent with the horn circuit but as we found - a little confusing when going off the EVTM. Yup. But we got it figured out. Probably ought to update the EVTM's. Just added that to the ever-growing list of things in the Forum & Website Upgrades spreadsheet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted January 25, 2020 Share Posted January 25, 2020 Yup. But we got it figured out. Probably ought to update the EVTM's. Just added that to the ever-growing list of things in the Forum & Website Upgrades spreadsheet. Regarding the Viper H1/3 and H1/4 Dome light question I had earlier. Checked and was told: The H1/3 and H1/4 wires are the same as contacts 30 and 87 on a relay. So the feature description that says an external relay is needed is incorrect if your unit has both 1/3 and 1/4. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 25, 2020 Author Share Posted January 25, 2020 Regarding the Viper H1/3 and H1/4 Dome light question I had earlier. Checked and was told: The H1/3 and H1/4 wires are the same as contacts 30 and 87 on a relay. So the feature description that says an external relay is needed is incorrect if your unit has both 1/3 and 1/4. Somehow we need to turn this into a page in the documentation. And, toward that end, Steve/FoxFord83 asked me the other day where to connect his system to be able to flash the hazards. I told him that the white/red wire between the hazard flasher and the turn/hazard switch would be the best place as that would be just one connection to get all four lights. EDIT: The previous connection at the hazard flasher did not and cannot work. However, Scott suggested this connection, which should work just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted January 25, 2020 Share Posted January 25, 2020 Somehow we need to turn this into a page in the documentation. And, toward that end, Steve/FoxFord83 asked me the other day where to connect his system to be able to flash the hazards. I told him that the white/red wire between the hazard flasher and the turn/hazard switch would be the best place as that would be just one connection to get all four lights. EDIT: The previous connection at the hazard flasher did not and cannot work. However, Scott suggested this connection, which should work just fine. Definitely. I am planning to get a 535T someday so am making that a consideration in my wiring. Going to swing by the jy real quick tomorrow as I am driving by and cut some connectors with some lengths of wire on both sides. Mentioned before but this will allow the factory wiring to remain unmolested and easily reverted because the cut donor connectors will be unconnected, flipped around, hooked into the factory connectors, and the wires between can be spliced/connected/etc. This is a preference and not a requirement as the same can be achieved through typical direct splice/scotch/snap lock methods. To recap what has been mentioned (shopping list): 1. Dome light a. Color: BK/LB b. Location (option A): Under-dash courtesy light on either passenger or driver side. c. Location (option B): B pillar - 3 terminals (grey connector). C202. d. Location (option C): LH kick panel - 4 terminals (grey connector). C406 2. Tach kill/ground when armed a. Color: DG/Y b. Location: Engine bay LH. Connects to ignition module - 4 terminals (black connector). C323 3. Hot in crank and run a. Color: R/LG b. Location: Engine bay LH. Connects to ignition coil - 4 terminals (black connector). C325 4. Horn a. Color: DB and Y/LG b. Location: LH radiator support. 1 terminal (EVTM doesn't show accurately) 5. Locks/Windows (door harness connector) a. Color: multiple b. Location: Kick panel LH. 8 terminals (grey connector). C1953 6. Hazard Lights (parking light flash output)(security confirmation/alarm) a. Color: W/R b. Location (option A): Hazard flasher. Rear of fuse panel (need to determine which leg of the flasher is W/R) c. Location (option B): LH side of steering column. 11 terminals (grey connector). C305 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 25, 2020 Author Share Posted January 25, 2020 Definitely. I am planning to get a 535T someday so am making that a consideration in my wiring. Going to swing by the jy real quick tomorrow as I am driving by and cut some connectors with some lengths of wire on both sides. Mentioned before but this will allow the factory wiring to remain unmolested and easily reverted because the cut donor connectors will be unconnected, flipped around, hooked into the factory connectors, and the wires between can be spliced/connected/etc. This is a preference and not a requirement as the same can be achieved through typical direct splice/scotch/snap lock methods. To recap what has been mentioned (shopping list): 1. Dome light a. Color: BK/LB b. Location (option A): Under-dash courtesy light on either passenger or driver side. c. Location (option B): B pillar - 3 terminals (grey connector). C202. d. Location (option C): LH kick panel - 4 terminals (grey connector). C406 2. Tach kill/ground when armed a. Color: DG/Y b. Location: Engine bay LH. Connects to ignition module - 4 terminals (black connector). C323 3. Hot in crank and run a. Color: R/LG b. Location: Engine bay LH. Connects to ignition coil - 4 terminals (black connector). C325 4. Horn a. Color: DB and Y/LG b. Location: LH radiator support. 1 terminal (EVTM doesn't show accurately) 5. Locks/Windows (door harness connector) a. Color: multiple b. Location: Kick panel LH. 8 terminals (grey connector). C1953 6. Hazard Lights (parking light flash output)(security confirmation/alarm) a. Color: W/R b. Location (option A): Hazard flasher. Rear of fuse panel (need to determine which leg of the flasher is W/R) c. Location (option B): LH side of steering column. 11 terminals (grey connector). C305 Scott - That's a neat approach. But I have a question about the Start in crank and run. This is just input to the security system and not a remote start. Right? And on the horn, unless you just want to use factory colors there's no reason to hunt for the yellow/light green jumper. Just make one up with one male and two female 1/4" connectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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