old55pete Posted August 29, 2020 Share Posted August 29, 2020 It just took me a little while to see the wisdom of your ways I still don't really get why my module was unable to pull the factory relay in so this may just be a situation where mine is weak and no one else will run into this. For anyone else that does this in the future I would first try the horn output of your module with the trigger terminal on the factory relay to see if it can pull it in fully so that it actually honks vs just grunting a little. Another way around the whole "doors locking with the keys still in the switch". I carry a spair door key in my wallet. I had a big wind slam my door closed one time while I was closing a gate. It slamed so hard the the electric locks locked. There I stood in the rain/sleet waiting for a spair key while the car sat there running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted August 29, 2020 Share Posted August 29, 2020 I don't think Viper supports DIY installations so their very vague and incomplete instructions are likely intended to push the buyer to have them installed by a shop. From Nick: Most of these china deluxe alarm systems have wires that connect to the interior lights and the ignition. some of them will lock the doors about 30 seconds after the ignition has been turned off. others will lock the doors after the last door has been closed. either way, this is just enought time for you to remember your keys were in the truck and have them locked in. I'm using mine as a convience module. I got ride of the passive lock function. But that takes alot of electronic reworking. Later on i will build an alarm system that arms itself once the doors are locked with the key only. I am working on a sense module that can tell when the key is in the ignition, if the door is locked with the key in the ignition, any time the door is opened then closed, the door will unlock. So the only way you can lock the truck , is if the key is not in the ignition. I've haven't seen any that work like that (auto lock after ignition OFF) although seems likely to exists but mine is configurable via dipswitches so that it can lock after you turn on the ignition or unlock after you turn it off - this has gotten me a number of times when starting the truck with the door open and then stepping out and shutting the door to monitor something on the engine. So I can definitely imagine the pain of having it autolock after ignition off without the ability to disable that feature. Curious on the bolded part. Wouldn't the door be unlocked via the normal hardware by opening it? What about using the 'key in ignition' factory circuit in your 86 to prevent them from locking? Our 2011 Flex, you can't lock the doors with the engine running and driver's seat unoccupied, however, if I use my remote start (operates by pressing the lock button on the integrated key head 3 times) I can start it by relocking it using the remote. It is a real nice system made by Fortin, very nice, clear instructions and integrates with the vehicle quite well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Littlebeefy Posted October 5, 2020 Share Posted October 5, 2020 I bought this kit after the local shop quoted me $500 for basic alarm installation. Can't beat a $13 dollar solution for basic features... I was thinking that I could get the door wiring connectors from a junkyard donor so I wouldn't have to cut into my harness. All I would need are the two pigtails that connect in the kick panel. I'm going to head down to the Pull-a-Part and see what they've got for F-150's, but I'm wondering if those connectors are common on other Ford vehicles so it would be easier to find. Anyone know? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted October 5, 2020 Share Posted October 5, 2020 I bought this kit after the local shop quoted me $500 for basic alarm installation. Can't beat a $13 dollar solution for basic features... I was thinking that I could get the door wiring connectors from a junkyard donor so I wouldn't have to cut into my harness. All I would need are the two pigtails that connect in the kick panel. I'm going to head down to the Pull-a-Part and see what they've got for F-150's, but I'm wondering if those connectors are common on other Ford vehicles so it would be easier to find. Anyone know? I don't know what all years the connectors are present on but here is how I did it (sounds like what you are looking to do): http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/The-Camano-Experience-tp35327p63071.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Littlebeefy Posted October 5, 2020 Share Posted October 5, 2020 I don't know what all years the connectors are present on but here is how I did it (sounds like what you are looking to do): http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/The-Camano-Experience-tp35327p63071.html Yes. Great minds think alike. Just want to make the jumper you're using in the footwell. Chances are these power door connectors are common, if you know where to look. Anyone know which models Ford used these connectors on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted October 6, 2020 Share Posted October 6, 2020 Yes. Great minds think alike. Just want to make the jumper you're using in the footwell. Chances are these power door connectors are common, if you know where to look. Anyone know which models Ford used these connectors on? How many and how many pins, male or female? The large wedgelocks are 0.110 dia male and female, pins are male: D1AB-14461-AA, Dorman 85345, AUVECO 14887; Female: D1AB-14488-CA, Dorman 85346, AUVECO 14888. I end up salvaging the plug assemblies from old harnesses, just be glad you aren't working on a MOPAR, their older stuff is almost impossible to find even from Chrysler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Littlebeefy Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 How many and how many pins, male or female? The large wedgelocks are 0.110 dia male and female, pins are male: D1AB-14461-AA, Dorman 85345, AUVECO 14887; Female: D1AB-14488-CA, Dorman 85346, AUVECO 14888. I end up salvaging the plug assemblies from old harnesses, just be glad you aren't working on a MOPAR, their older stuff is almost impossible to find even from Chrysler. FWIW, I found the correct green connectors on an early 80's Lincoln Town Car. Doesn't look like they were specific to trucks. Seems like the left and right side are interchangeable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 10, 2020 Author Share Posted October 10, 2020 FWIW, I found the correct green connectors on an early 80's Lincoln Town Car. Doesn't look like they were specific to trucks. Seems like the left and right side are interchangeable. Good to know, Chad. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Littlebeefy Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 Gary, I tried this and must have done something wrong. Is it possible that I misinterpreted your wiring diagram? I cut the existing circuit on the pink/yellow and pink/green wires (not literally cut, using a jumper) and wired in the orange and white (orange/black and white/black, too) so now the lock and unlock switch MUST pass through the relay in the new control unit to complete the circuit. The passenger side now works on the door switch and the remote for both lock and unlock and the drivers door does nothing using either the switch or the remote. Was I supposed to interrupt the existing circuit like in your original diagram? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Littlebeefy Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 Gary, I tried this and must have done something wrong. Is it possible that I misinterpreted your wiring diagram? I cut the existing circuit on the pink/yellow and pink/green wires (not literally cut, using a jumper) and wired in the orange and white (orange/black and white/black, too) so now the lock and unlock switch MUST pass through the relay in the new control unit to complete the circuit. The passenger side now works on the door switch and the remote for both lock and unlock and the drivers door does nothing using either the switch or the remote. Was I supposed to interrupt the existing circuit like in your original diagram? Thanks I must have a bad connection somewhere. My drivers side window and lock does nothing and my drivers side switches do nothing. My passenger side window, lock and switches all work fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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