Adding Remote Locking

[kramttocs]

Scott - That's a neat approach.

But I have a question about the Start in crank and run. This is just input to the security system and not a remote start. Right?

And on the horn, unless you just want to use factory colors there's no reason to hunt for the yellow/light green jumper. Just make one up with one male and two female 1/4" connectors.

That should be 'Hot' and not 'Start'. Updated the post above. Yes, security only so that is just an input to the module to trigger the alarm if needed.

Yeah, the horn and the domelight option A don't really need factory connectors. I do want to use factory colors though unless something makes it impractical.

[Gary Lewis]

That should be 'Hot' and not 'Start'. Updated the post above. Yes, security only so that is just an input to the module to trigger the alarm if needed.

Yeah, the horn and the domelight option A don't really need factory connectors. I do want to use factory colors though unless something makes it impractical.

Happy hunting today. Pretty frosty down here. Probably worse up there. Gonna get wet tonight/tomorrow, so time is of the essence.

[kramttocs]

Happy hunting today. Pretty frosty down here. Probably worse up there. Gonna get wet tonight/tomorrow, so time is of the essence.

It's definitely a mess everywhere around here. The tear down part of the jy was pretty deep due to the skid steers but the back lot was just slimy. I think I got everything I needed though. I realize that most will opt for direct splices vs the jumpers but I'll still take some pictures of my process - if nothing else it will show the connectors/wires that are of interest.

The whole taking the tach to ground part.

Would that be-

30 - wire going to coil tach post

87 -

87a - wire coming from ignition module

85 - FROM security module when armed (-500mA)

86 - constant +12v (should this be only in Start/Run?)

[Gary Lewis]

The whole taking the tach to ground part.

Would that be-

30 - wire going to coil tach post

87 -

87a - wire coming from ignition module

85 - FROM security module when armed (-500mA)

86 - constant +12v (should this be only in Start/Run?)

I've been thinking that you want the relay to be "set", meaning pulled in, all the time when the security system is armed. Assuming that the "-500 ma" means it will sink up to 500 ma then you tie that to 85 as you said. And in this scenario the power to 86 needs to be hot at all times so the security system can set the relay.

The down side of doing it this way is that the relay is pulling 150 - 200 ma all the time the security system is set. So over time the battery is going to be pulled down. Given that, perhaps your suggestion of having power to the relay in Start & Run is better. If the thief tries uses the ignition switch or if they just run a jumper to the hot side of the coil the relay will set and ground the ignition.

But the wire going to the coil's tach post should go to 87, and 30 should go to ground. That way when the relay is set the coil is grounded, and since that's what the ignition module does the module can't cause the ignition to spark.

However, I'd use the tach wire in the cab rather than put the wiring under the hood. That way there's no way they can hot-wire the truck unless then get into the cab, find the relay, and disable it. And I'd do the wiring from above with the dash pad off.

[kramttocs]

The whole taking the tach to ground part.

Would that be-

30 - wire going to coil tach post

87 -

87a - wire coming from ignition module

85 - FROM security module when armed (-500mA)

86 - constant +12v (should this be only in Start/Run?)

I've been thinking that you want the relay to be "set", meaning pulled in, all the time when the security system is armed. Assuming that the "-500 ma" means it will sink up to 500 ma then you tie that to 85 as you said. And in this scenario the power to 86 needs to be hot at all times so the security system can set the relay.

The down side of doing it this way is that the relay is pulling 150 - 200 ma all the time the security system is set. So over time the battery is going to be pulled down. Given that, perhaps your suggestion of having power to the relay in Start & Run is better. If the thief tries uses the ignition switch or if they just run a jumper to the hot side of the coil the relay will set and ground the ignition.

But the wire going to the coil's tach post should go to 87, and 30 should go to ground. That way when the relay is set the coil is grounded, and since that's what the ignition module does the module can't cause the ignition to spark.

However, I'd use the tach wire in the cab rather than put the wiring under the hood. That way there's no way they can hot-wire the truck unless then get into the cab, find the relay, and disable it. And I'd do the wiring from above with the dash pad off.

I left 87 blank but meant to put 87 - Ground.

Wouldn't that perform the same action?

I am really enjoying getting into the use of relays but am not yet to the point where I can easily picture it in my head. In your setup are you having two wires going into 87? In essence are you splicing into that wire vs splitting it like I was thinking? Trying to picture how the truck would run if the system isn't armed.

I can see the real benefit of having it up in the dash.

 

[Gary Lewis]

I left 87 blank but meant to put 87 - Ground.

Wouldn't that perform the same action?

I am really enjoying getting into the use of relays but am not yet to the point where I can easily picture it in my head. In your setup are you having two wires going into 87? In essence are you splicing into that wire vs splitting it like I was thinking? Trying to picture how the truck would run if the system isn't armed.

I can see the real benefit of having it up in the dash.

Not sure I follow.

But taking 87 to ground and splicing into the tach wire and taking that to 30 is what I'm thinking. That way with the relay quiescent everything works as normal, but with the relay set the tach wire goes to ground and the engine cannot run.

[kramttocs]

Not sure I follow.

But taking 87 to ground and splicing into the tach wire and taking that to 30 is what I'm thinking. That way with the relay quiescent everything works as normal, but with the relay set the tach wire goes to ground and the engine cannot run.

I think it's the location that is putting us on different pages now that I looked at the diagram again.

Correct me if I am wrong but you are saying to take the bottom-most DG/Y (in the dash), splice into it with another wire that goes to ground when the relay is triggered?

Whereas I was working in the engine bay and using the top DG/Y and splitting that so that when the relay isn't triggered the module and coil are connected but when it is triggered the coil is taken to ground. Although in my case taking it to ground is likely redundant since disconnecting the wires would prevent starting.

The better security of the dash location aside, both would be functionally equivalent, correct?

[Gary Lewis]

I think it's the location that is putting us on different pages now that I looked at the diagram again.

Correct me if I am wrong but you are saying to take the bottom-most DG/Y (in the dash), splice into it with another wire that goes to ground when the relay is triggered?

Whereas I was working in the engine bay and using the top DG/Y and splitting that so that when the relay isn't triggered the module and coil are connected but when it is triggered the coil is taken to ground. Although in my case taking it to ground is likely redundant since disconnecting the wires would prevent starting.

The better security of the dash location aside, both would be functionally equivalent, correct?

Yes, you are right in all cases. We were thinking of different locations and different methods.

I like the in-the-dash location for several reasons:

• It is more secure since it can't be seen

• It is also more secure since there are no wiring changes under the hood to reverse or cut out

• There's no relay that needs to be parked under the hood, looking messy if by itself or being more complex if you put it in a PDB

But either approach works.

[kramttocs]

Yes, you are right in all cases. We were thinking of different locations and different methods.

I like the in-the-dash location for several reasons:

• It is more secure since it can't be seen

• It is also more secure since there are no wiring changes under the hood to reverse or cut out

• There's no relay that needs to be parked under the hood, looking messy if by itself or being more complex if you put it in a PDB

But either approach works.

Hooked up the Viper 211HV tonight. Used the diagram in the first post (thanks again Gary!) as the starting point with a slight deviation in that I am using a dedicated power wire. Still need to hook up all the other stuff (horn, flashers, dome lights, etc) but just having the keyless entry puts a smile on one's face.

[Gary Lewis]

Hooked up the Viper 211HV tonight. Used the diagram in the first post (thanks again Gary!) as the starting point with a slight deviation in that I am using a dedicated power wire. Still need to hook up all the other stuff (horn, flashers, dome lights, etc) but just having the keyless entry puts a smile on one's face.

Cool! I hope to add a security system to Dad's truck, if not Big Blue, so am glad this is working out.