85lebaront2 Posted February 1, 2020 Share Posted February 1, 2020 Can the later 1994-1996/7 cab and firewall AC components be used with the 1986 style compressor? Is it just a matter of adapting the lines to fit between the two systems, or is it not so simple? Just curious. Short answer is no, compressor end connections are entirely different. You could probably get some made with the later springlock fittings on the firewall and condenser ends and the screw on at the compressor ends or possibly find a replacement for the compressor service valves on the FS6 compressor. The changes that were made in 1994 for R134a are: compressor changed from FS6 to FS10 (larger displacement), condenser changed to multipass design for better heat transfer, evaporator size increased for better cooling and the interior ducting was completely changed including the blend door. The other item on the 460 and Diesel models and maybe all, an insulating reflective wrap was put over the discharge side of the evaporator case, this is why I can get in Darth after a highway run on a hot day and have cold air almost immediately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted February 2, 2020 Author Share Posted February 2, 2020 Short answer is no, compressor end connections are entirely different. You could probably get some made with the later springlock fittings on the firewall and condenser ends and the screw on at the compressor ends or possibly find a replacement for the compressor service valves on the FS6 compressor. Ok, understood. I heard that a '96 with factory AC just showed up at one of the local junkyards, so I was going to go investigate. I've been collecting the parts for Bullnose factory AC parts, so that is the direction I've already been going, and I would prefer to keep the stock V-belt arrangement if I can. I might be convinced to swap in a serpentine system later on, so maybe I'll go have a look at the truck anyway and see how cheaply I can get the parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted February 2, 2020 Author Share Posted February 2, 2020 And yes swapping to an AC equipped cab is the way to go, I wanted to "install" AC into my stripped cab, The Owner of the JY that had a AC Cab said "if you want the spend hours trying the get all the blend doors wires vac lines ect, you'll never get it right in the stripped cab, Take the whole cab (completely rust free) and all components under the hood for $700. Super glad I did! Hey Ron, Out of curiosity, did your AC cab come from a truck with a single fuel tank? In the little bit of searching I have done, it looks like almost every heat/AC control panel also has the dual fuel tank switch. I know they exist for trucks with single tanks, but they don't seem to be all that easy to come by. Getting a whole cab was a good deal. I'd never find a cab like that, certainly not around here, and mine has already been painted, so I'll have to work with what I have. I've heard from at least a couple guys that have done this swap, so I can make it work one way or another. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 In the little bit of searching I have done, it looks like almost every heat/AC control panel also has the dual fuel tank switch. Don’t forget to look in Econoline vans. Many had AC and only one fuel tank. That’s where I found the control panel for my ‘81. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 In the little bit of searching I have done, it looks like almost every heat/AC control panel also has the dual fuel tank switch. Don’t forget to look in Econoline vans. Many had AC and only one fuel tank. That’s where I found the control panel for my ‘81. That's interesting 'cause all of the van controls start with E?UZ where the F & U-series controls start with E?TZ. So I'd assumed that they wouldn't work. But that's the problem with getting all of your limited knowledge from a book. You don't know what might work in spite of what the book says. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted February 3, 2020 Share Posted February 3, 2020 In the little bit of searching I have done, it looks like almost every heat/AC control panel also has the dual fuel tank switch. I know they exist for trucks with single tanks, but they don't seem to be all that easy to come by. Worst case scenario, I can send you my A/C-Single Tank panel with the rest of the A/C small parts (two control switches, vacuum hoses, wiring harness, etc) I still have if shipping to you from FL/US won't kill you. I'm not gonna bother with factory A/C in my truck since my inner plenum was damaged so you're welcome to it if you can't find it closer or on Fleabay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted February 3, 2020 Author Share Posted February 3, 2020 In the little bit of searching I have done, it looks like almost every heat/AC control panel also has the dual fuel tank switch. I know they exist for trucks with single tanks, but they don't seem to be all that easy to come by. Worst case scenario, I can send you my A/C-Single Tank panel with the rest of the A/C small parts (two control switches, vacuum hoses, wiring harness, etc) I still have if shipping to you from FL/US won't kill you. I'm not gonna bother with factory A/C in my truck since my inner plenum was damaged so you're welcome to it if you can't find it closer or on Fleabay. Thanks Shaun, I may very well be interested in the parts if you're not going to use them. My sister in law and her husband just bought a place in Florida and are driving down in a couple weeks. I've already told him that I'll be sending him to the junkyards for me down there...haha, so I could get him to pick up parts for me if need be. What year are you parts from? There were some changes in them at some point no? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted February 3, 2020 Share Posted February 3, 2020 Thanks Shaun, I may very well be interested in the parts if you're not going to use them. My sister in law and her husband just bought a place in Florida and are driving down in a couple weeks. I've already told him that I'll be sending him to the junkyards for me down there...haha, so I could get him to pick up parts for me if need be. What year are you parts from? There were some changes in them at some point no? Here's what I have. The wiring harness would be for parts or repair since it looks like some squirrels or mice got to it at some point years ago. Definitely looks fixable, and it only looks to be lightly chewed in a few places. The control panel looks good aside from fading on the red part of warm. All the knobs move freely. The vacuum harness look to be in good shape with no broken sections. I may have both control cables as well, but I would have to look. I know I have at least one still hooked up in the truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LARIAT 85 Posted February 4, 2020 Share Posted February 4, 2020 As for the throttle kicker, I don't think it is necessary. Nice, but I think your engine will idle fine w/o it. While it isn't absolutely necessary, the throttle kicker does serve a useful purpose. Yes, your engine will idle fine without it provided that you set the curb idle speed higher than you would if you didn't have A/C. The throttle kicker (Ford called the combination A/C solenoid/dashpot a solepot) will adjust for the extra strain on the engine that is generated when the A/C compressor is turned on. The solepot mechanically chocks the throttle linkage a bit whenever the A/C is turned on. This way, you can set the idle speed as low as possible under normal conditions, and then adjust the solepot to "kick up" the throttle lever just enough to maintain the normal curb idle speed. When adjusted correctly, there should be no difference in normal idle speed and idle speed with the compressor turned on. For example, my truck has a curb idle speed of 500 RPM in gear. When I turn on my A/C system, my truck will still idle at 500 RPM - thanks to the solepot. Without it, I would have to adjust my curb idle speed up to 700 RPM or so to compensate for the extra load. Then I will end up with two idle speeds: 700 RPM without A/C turned on, and 500 RPM with the A/C turned on. It's the details that count. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted February 8, 2020 Author Share Posted February 8, 2020 Here's what I have. The wiring harness would be for parts or repair since it looks like some squirrels or mice got to it at some point years ago. Definitely looks fixable, and it only looks to be lightly chewed in a few places. The control panel looks good aside from fading on the red part of warm. All the knobs move freely. The vacuum harness look to be in good shape with no broken sections. I may have both control cables as well, but I would have to look. I know I have at least one still hooked up in the truck. Hey Shaun, Let me know what you'd want for the stuff. You can PM on here or whatever... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts