Jump to content
Bullnose Forums

Factory AC conversion thoughts?


Recommended Posts

Hey Gary,

I seem to recall reading that the passenger side kick panel is different on the trucks with factory AC. Do you know if this is right or wrong?

Yes, there are two different kick panels - those for the A/C trucks and those w/o A/C. See the page here: Documentation/Interior/Kick Panels.

But I like the non-A/C kick panels and if I had them I sure wouldn't change when installing A/C.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 111
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yes, there are two different kick panels - those for the A/C trucks and those w/o A/C. See the page here: Documentation/Interior/Kick Panels.

But I like the non-A/C kick panels and if I had them I sure wouldn't change when installing A/C.

Thanks Gary, I didn't realize that you had already created a page on the topic.

Ok, I'll try to get a set of these panels as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Gary, I didn't realize that you had already created a page on the topic.

Ok, I'll try to get a set of these panels as well.

Edit: Right...I just read that you said you wouldn't change them. I was thinking that after the fact...I can just keep the vents closed if need be when using the AC. I guess that's no big deal. Saves me some hassle.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Gary, I didn't realize that you had already created a page on the topic.

Ok, I'll try to get a set of these panels as well.

Edit: Right...I just read that you said you wouldn't change them. I was thinking that after the fact...I can just keep the vents closed if need be when using the AC. I guess that's no big deal. Saves me some hassle.

And, when it isn't hot and you don't need the A/C, which may be most of the summer up there, you can just open the vents in the kick panels and have fresh air.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And, when it isn't hot and you don't need the A/C, which may be most of the summer up there, you can just open the vents in the kick panels and have fresh air.

Gary that makes perfect sense. When I went looking for info on the different kick panels, I thought that the ones in the AC cabs had a different purpose and that they would be required for an AC swap. Now that I see they are not required at all and I can get the same effect by just closing the vents, it makes sense to leave them be.

Our hot months here are obviously July and August, and it's not all that uncommon to hit 85-90 degrees, but it is the humidity that is the killer most of the time. It's also warmer in May and September than it used to be too. I guess it's all in what you're used to. A day that I find uncomfortably hot might feel like a cool fall day to Shaun...lol.

I'm hoping the new sliding rear window helps with some air flow on the cooler days when AC isn't needed.

…...if the drains are cleaned out. :nabble_smiley_happy:

Ha! I actually checked and cleaned them when I had the fenders off this summer. They were surprisingly clean. The truck still only has 40,000 miles on it, and the original owner did keep it in a barn or under a canopy of some sort when he wasn't using it. My wife parks under a tree at the house and I'm constantly digging leaves and twigs out of her cowl vents in the fall.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

David,

You're a good man! Thank you sir. I ended up buying these parts and got a little bit of a discount on them. The shipping from North Dakota or wherever they were cost as much as the parts, but I'm OK with that. It looks like everything is there. There is only one part there that I can't identify but I'm sure it will become clear once I have the stuff in front of me. I also ordered a crank pulley with the 3rd sheave for the AC belt. It is coming from North Carolina I believe. That gets me some critical parts for the conversion.

As per Lebaron previously, I will keep my eyes open for a 94-97 AC system and components, but right now a Bullnose V-belt system is going to be easier for me to deal with, even if it isn't as good. I plan on putting a shut off valve on the heater core hose(s) anyway, so I will have control over that.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

David,

You're a good man! Thank you sir. I ended up buying these parts and got a little bit of a discount on them. The shipping from North Dakota or wherever they were cost as much as the parts, but I'm OK with that. It looks like everything is there. There is only one part there that I can't identify but I'm sure it will become clear once I have the stuff in front of me. I also ordered a crank pulley with the 3rd sheave for the AC belt. It is coming from North Carolina I believe. That gets me some critical parts for the conversion.

As per Lebaron previously, I will keep my eyes open for a 94-97 AC system and components, but right now a Bullnose V-belt system is going to be easier for me to deal with, even if it isn't as good. I plan on putting a shut off valve on the heater core hose(s) anyway, so I will have control over that.

Excellent! I love it when a plan comes together. :nabble_anim_claps:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Excellent! I love it when a plan comes together. :nabble_anim_claps:

Gary,

I’ve been looking around at AC parts and components and something I’m not finding easily is the heat/AC control panel without the dual fuel tank switch. I know they existed as AC was an option in Flaresides obviously but every time I find a controller or pictures of one it always has the dual tank switch.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Excellent! I love it when a plan comes together. :nabble_anim_claps:

Gary,

I’ve been looking around at AC parts and components and something I’m not finding easily is the heat/AC control panel without the dual fuel tank switch. I know they existed as AC was an option in Flaresides obviously but every time I find a controller or pictures of one it always has the dual tank switch.

Perhaps David can find one? I'm sure he'll be checking in tomorrow.

But, there's another use for that extra switch - a kill switch. Simply wire the tach signal to that switch and ground the other side. With the switch in the "wrong" position no amount of cranking nor jumpering will get the engine to run. The only way it'll run is to flip the switch back or cut the DG/Y wire that goes to the tach after it branches off from the DG/Y wire going from the DS-II module to the coil. :nabble_smiley_evil:

Link to comment
Share on other sites


×
×
  • Create New...