Rembrant Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 Gentlemen, I have been actively hunting for AC parts for the past several years and have pretty much decided to go with some kind of an aftermarket AC system combined with some factory and dealer AC components to finish the dash. Scott has been super helpful in helping me source some dealer AC vents and pieces. Finding a parts truck around here with factory or dealer AC has been next to impossible. Finally, what pops up locally this week but an '86 being parted out with factory AC. The cab components are still all intact, but everything between the evaporator and condenser is missing. So there's no accumulator, no lines, and no compressor nor the brackets to mount a compressor. So, my questions are... I am aware of the cab differences. Could one simply modify a Non-AC cab by cutting the 3rd (middle) hole in the firewall? If changing the firewall like Dave did is the only solution, then that is pretty much a deal breaker as that not something I really want to do. From what I can tell from the Cert Label, the parts truck dash is Chesnut in color. Looks like a light tan to me. Any issues with painting this dash blue to match my interior? I see many of the AC parts are available aftermarket, like the lines, the accumulator, evap and condensor cores, etc. Is there an aftermarket supplier for the pumps? What about the necessary mounting brackets and pulleys, etc for a 302? Difficult to find/locate? If all of the above questions pass the test of being possible, what other issues would there be? Other common failure parts (controls?) that are NLA and impossible to find? Any thoughts or comments good or bad would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 I believe Dave is the best one to answer the firewall question. But I think his answer will be that you cannot just cut the extra hole, that there are overlaps that would cause problems. I'd suggest a cab swap instead. And I am pretty sure you can paint the dash to match. In fact, I'm planning on that for Dad's truck as the original dash is cracked. As for the brackets, lines, etc, I think that is doable. And the pump/compressor is available as a replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 Unfortunately Gary is right, the AC firewall is pretty different and you can’t just cut an additional hole. In the long run it may be worth the effort though, since all of the components will be supported for the foreseeable future, whereas aftermarket is at the mercy of the company that makes it. If you modify your vehicle to take their system and they go out of business or drop support for the model you bought you are up a creek with a modified truck. If you do pull parts for factory air, don’t forget the glove box liner. Also, even if the brackets are gone, check for the engine pulley with the additional groove for the AC belt. That can be a tricky bit to find if most of the trucks around are non air. Overall though, the brackets and pulleys for a 302 should not be a big issue to find... Regarding painting the dash shell (I assume this is the piece you want to swap for the passenger side vent holes) this is what I told Chris McGaugh: I would not go too crazy trying to find a dash shell that was originally black. The plastic itself is a white color, and all came painted from the factory. I painted a blue one to put in my ‘81. I used the SEM sand-free prep, and Duplicolor black. It has been extremely tough, and held up to a lot of abuse. I have hauled things in the cab that rubbed on it. My grandkids have put their muddy feet on it and kicked at it while in their car seats. I (jokingly) told them if they didn’t knock it off I would cut their feet off and held up a pruning bow saw. Then it just became a game and they did it even more... 😅. To my amazement when I wipe it down with a damp cloth it looks just as good as the day I painted it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 Gentlemen, So there's no accumulator, no lines, and no compressor nor the brackets to mount a compressor. What about the necessary mounting brackets and pulleys, etc for a 302? Difficult to find/locate? Any thoughts or comments good or bad would be appreciated. Cory, reportedly from a 1986 F150 XLT Lariat with 302 [5.0?]. https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-A-C-COMPRESSOR-PULLEY-CLUTCH-A-C-IDLER-TENSIONER-Supporting-Brackets/153374656479?hash=item23b5d787df:g:maUAAOSwxndcTziJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 Gentlemen, So there's no accumulator, no lines, and no compressor nor the brackets to mount a compressor. What about the necessary mounting brackets and pulleys, etc for a 302? Difficult to find/locate? Any thoughts or comments good or bad would be appreciated. Cory, reportedly from a 1986 F150 XLT Lariat with 302 [5.0?]. https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-A-C-COMPRESSOR-PULLEY-CLUTCH-A-C-IDLER-TENSIONER-Supporting-Brackets/153374656479?hash=item23b5d787df:g:maUAAOSwxndcTziJ That right there is the biggest item you need. Lines can be bought aftermarket, the system will convert (done properly) to R134a, but if you can score a later compressor (FS-10 instead of FS-6) it will cool better. The 1994-1996/7 AC casing will fit the 1986 firewall with no modification. I would also recommend a later inside duct for the heater core and blend door, the later blend door actually seals the heater core off in max AC. The 1994-1996/7 condenser mounts differently from the 1986, but is adaptable. If it were me, (a) having done Darth and (b) having to adapt the entire system, I would definitely update to the factory R134a system, just grab an entire Serpentine setup for a 302 and use the newer, improved system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted January 7, 2020 Author Share Posted January 7, 2020 Unfortunately Gary is right, the AC firewall is pretty different and you can’t just cut an additional hole. OK, fair enough. I was just comparing the two...or pictures of the two, and was curious. I stole a picture from Dave's conversion, I hope he doesn't mind. It looks like the outer rectangular hole on the passenger side is the same between AC and Non-AC. The hole closer to the engine appears to be very similar...slightly shorter on the AC cab. At a glance, it looks like you'd just need to the cut the 3rd hole, and of course a few extras for coolant hoses and screw mounts, etc. Anyway, no big deal...I wouldn't mind some mild modification work, but if it's too much than it's easier for me to discard the idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted January 7, 2020 Author Share Posted January 7, 2020 Cory, reportedly from a 1986 F150 XLT Lariat with 302 [5.0?]. https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-A-C-COMPRESSOR-PULLEY-CLUTCH-A-C-IDLER-TENSIONER-Supporting-Brackets/153374656479?hash=item23b5d787df:g:maUAAOSwxndcTziJ David, thanks for this. Looks like everything is there except the crank pulley.... I have it saved for now, but it's looking like a very good option right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted January 7, 2020 Author Share Posted January 7, 2020 If it were me, (a) having done Darth and (b) having to adapt the entire system, I would definitely update to the factory R134a system, just grab an entire Serpentine setup for a 302 and use the newer, improved system. I talked to a local guy today that has Ford truck parts. He said he didn't have a V-Belt AC system for a 302, but that he did have a couple serpentine systems to fit the 302. Hmmmm..... Can you run a serpentine system without a smog pump? Shorter belt? Or do you have to get a delete pulley? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted January 7, 2020 Author Share Posted January 7, 2020 Regarding painting the dash shell... Jon, I think I had asked you before about painting the dash and that it was no problem. I was pretty sure that was OK. About removing the shell. Is there much to it once the dash pad and radio/instrument bezels are removed? Does the steering column need to be removed or simply unbolted from the dash bracket? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 Regarding painting the dash shell... Jon, I think I had asked you before about painting the dash and that it was no problem. I was pretty sure that was OK. About removing the shell. Is there much to it once the dash pad and radio/instrument bezels are removed? Does the steering column need to be removed or simply unbolted from the dash bracket? You need to remove the whole dash and the metal frame it attaches to. The steering column/dash attachment point needs unbolted but the column stays in. The hard part is all if the dash wire loom needs to be disconnected and stays in the truck, then fastened back into the new dash shell. I would say it’s an all afternoon kind of job but not that bad. Best to do it all at once while everything’s fresh in your mind and snap a couple pictures to help you remember how it came apart. It looks worse than it is lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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